Jump to content

Try2Relax

Member+
  • Posts

    602
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    22

Posts posted by Try2Relax

  1. Sorry, just saw this. That sounds great.

     

    When I replaced the suspension/greased the bearings (level in driveway), I'd forgotten the inner seal (1st time doing) and it was up on its jacks for more than 24 hours, without wheels, no problems, as a precaution I lowered it to it's lowest level and placed lumber cornerways under the rear frame (just in case).

     

    In my opinion, placing any kind of jack under an Ollie would be more of an emergency situation, than what I did above.

    • Thanks 1
  2. I tried to post this earlier today but must have done something wrong since I don’t see it anywhere. My apologies if it shows up twice!

     

    We are close to making the final option decisions for our Ollie and have a few questions experienced owners might be able to help with. Our plan is to do extensive traveling in the US and Canada using a mix of boondocking spots and campgrounds, most likely NOT during the summer months.

     

    1. Do any of you who have the extra awning on the street side use it much? It is a fairly expensive option but seems useful for sun control. Waffling on this one!

     

    2. The Winegard Omni-directional Antenna (the $299 option) .

     

    3. Cell phone booster –

     

    1. I've used ours a lot, it's nice to be able to sit outside on either side, sometimes curb side is the parking lot, driveway, other people etc and street side is wilderness. On a side note, I'm near Winnipesaukee if you'd like to stop by and sit around it and decide on things with no pressure. PM me

     

    2. We have it and have never used it. I use my phone and YouTube TV for TV and local news.

     

    3. We have it and have used it a few times, it works really well for what it does, been in a no bars coverage area and turned it on and had 3 out of 4 bars 4G

    • Thanks 1
  3.  

    I saw those when I did my shopping last year. Real slick little units. But at $50 for each sensor it was a bit too much to swallow at the time. Still, I like the data logging capability, and an app is much easier to check from bed in the morning or outside the trailer than an LCD on a bulkhead with limited viewing angle.

     

    How do you like them? Is the app reliable at reading temps? Like from the time you open the app, does it acquire the sensors pretty quickly? How well does it handle displaying multiple sensors?

     

    I’m curious about your outside sensor location. Do you feel that having it under the propane cover gives you a fairly accurate measure of outdoor air temp?

     

     

    I've had a few of these for quite a while, they have worked flawlessly. Originally I got them to keep an eye on the fridge/freezer temps, then played with them moving around to different locations. The tracking is the best part, I can leave them somewhere for a month or so and then just check too see what the conditions do over that time period, without having to check them all the time to see and track live data. My Oliver sits on the edge of my driveway and sitting in my kitchen or living room I can open the app and it updates just fine.

     

    If you aren't looking to compare multiple locations at the same time you wouldn't need more than one, as you can track a location for a week and then just move it.

     

    Having one is with the cost, just to satisfy whatever curiosity you may have about any given location for whatever period of time you'd like.

  4. Full disclosure: I have the Telesteps and have never hesitated to recommend it. I would also recommend the Xtend and climb

     

    This video is entertaining and informative.

     

     

    As to that Yesker ladder, one of the things I do when shopping on Amazon is to search by manufacturer name, products by Yesker include USB charging cables, iPhone cases, glass bottles with eye droppers, fingernail scrub brushes, pineapple corers, ultrasonic jewelry cleaners, waterproof fitness trackers... While I don't hesitate to purchase Dexter authorized bearings that may be made in China, there are some products I would stay away from.

    • Thanks 1
  5. Having one of the new trailers with the water feed from the top, my guess would be that debris from the hole cut found its way into the drain line and possibly clogged the valve assembly.

     

    The beauty to pex, cut the line somewhere before the valve, take it in the house and clean it make sure it flows good and then Sharkbite it back together, it's just a drain line.

     

    Make sure the tanks empty before you cut that line though...

    • Thanks 1
    • Like 2
  6. I like the vent idea for several reasons. My only hesitation is it allowing warm moist air out of the shower and into the rest of the trailer. I’d want to install it low if I could to allow cool air to enter the bathroom when showering and then to leave when the furnace is on, but then that opens up water concerns. Maybe modifying the bottom seal of the door so that air can transfer but water will still get caught/diverted by the lip.

     

     

    If placed low on the wall in the corner near the toilet, it would become a part of the cold air return, when the heat is on, and would draw the air from between the hulls when the exhaust fan is. Once the door is open to leave little to any moist air would enter the vent.

     

    Use one of these covers and that would eliminate most chance of any water going in.

     

    I believe the wall is a single layer between the head and under dinette seat.

     

    https://www.amazon.com/SeaLux-Stainless-Marine-Engine-Louvered/dp/B01LW71I0Z

     

     

  7. The bath duct in the Elite II so useless at heating the bathroom that I wonder if it wouldn’t be better just to cut it short and let it permanently heat that hull area by the door/closet.

     

    Another possible improvement might be to move the return air intake to one of the dinette seats. That way cabin air would have to be drawn through the hull to recirculate.

     

     

    That was my thought too. But I got pooh-poohed...

     

    http://olivertraveltrailers.com/topic/heating-system/#post-40919

  8. If you remove the access over the water pump you can pull the heater ducting off the rear blower vent and just lay it out in the hull pointing towards the front. The duct is only held on with a clamp requiring a straight slot screwdriver. Put the cover back in place to contain as much heat as possible.

     

    Going to both locations means that the freeze would be at/behind the wheel well.

     

    I'm not sure how they've changed the routing but there used to be a tee below the sink behind the cabinets along the outer wall.

  9. Steph, your truck should be fine for towing an Elite II, make sure it has an integrated brake controller and go with the Andersen hitch (Oliver will set it up) and you can have many years of enjoyable towing. Before I had a clue, I towed mine with '13 Sierra 5.3L without any hitch setup and it did fine. Don't plan on racing people up the passes on the way home and dial up the brake controller for going back down and everything should be great. Any extra weight over what the truck payload can handle can be placed in the trailer as that would be where your extra numbers will be found.

     

    As to performance TFL Truck has a new video comparing the 5.0L F150 vs Ecoboost (turbo) when dealing with the pass, while not the Dodge it can give you an idea

  10. I started with a '13 Sierra 1500, went from Boston to Vegas and back it had no issues and no problems, southern route smaller inclines. Did a few other trips that had steeper inclines, just not for miles long, and it did struggle, more than I liked. Crunching the numbers it was always a close thing, I would pack some things in the trailer, instead of the truck, as it had more carrying capacity.  Looking at long term thinking, I decided to part ways with it after 1 year (looked at it as a long term rental) and get rid of it while it still had most value.

     

    I started looking at the F250s and when it came down to crunching all the numbers I found that getting an 11,500lb GVWR F350 vs a 10,000lb GVWR F250 cost approx $500 more and got me 1500lbs of payload capacity, which matters greatly when getting 900-1000lbs of extra engine under the hood.

     

    Now when I check all the numbers, it's only out of curiosity not because I need to make sure I'm not going over any.

     

    You mention exploring new areas, one of the additional benefits of the extra payload is we now carry a 2up quad in the bed (1,000 lbs) park the trailer and really explore new areas, and still don't come close to worrying about any numbers.

  11. I've had the dri-dek for a while and will be purchasing some hypervent at some point soon. Just this week I had to pull both mattresses out and remove and wash the covers, the rear half of the mattress all around the curve, was completely soaked (I thought the window leaked, it hadn't) I will get enough of the hypervent to also go up the outside wall.

     

    When first getting the dri-dek know that it SMELLS and really needs to air for quite a while.

×
×
  • Create New...