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Jim and Frances

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Posts posted by Jim and Frances

  1. We plan to move to Geocel GC28100 Pro Flex RV Flexible Sealant when the original silicone needs replacing.  Our rear window is getting close.

    @DavePhelps outlined the one-time challenge of getting rid of the silicone residue prior to going non-silicone. 

    For those going with silicone-on-silicone to avoid the nasty prep work, be careful of the chemical basis of the silicone being used as it apparently needs to match the original.   I found an interesting  article on silicone-to-silicone bonding here.  Way above my chemistry paygrade!

     

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  2. I would like to add that the value of this forum is as great as factory service in helping me solve occasional problems.  For example, this past weekend I ran into what I thought was a serious issue but quickly found that someone else had experienced the same issue and provided the solution on this forum....and poof!  Problem solved.  Interestingly, the original problem while reported to factory service was only solved by the owner himself.  Given the outstanding expertise of our factory service folks, this was a rarity but proved once again the value of this forum.

    Do we have RV tech shortages? Yes.  Are RV techs typically paid poorly by dealerships with lack of training? Yes.  Are there risks with the new service model? Yes.

    But, do we still have each other and this forum?  YES!

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  3. On 3/26/2024 at 10:27 PM, jd1923 said:

    Me too. All of us are interested!

    An engineering experiment...
    What if you had a large chunk of clay and put it between the axle and the frame. Drove down a test road and measured the height of compression before and after the test drive.

    Then do the same test, same path of road, with new leaf springs. The clay would likely be taller to start, but a ratio of compression, before and after would be measured.

    Yep, clay is old-school, so I love it! There are modern ways to measure this...

    My challenge to you, my special new friend, Art! 🤣

    Cell phone accelerometer apps might work nice for recording before / after effects.  When ours arrive, we will give it a shot and report back.  I use the iPhone app called "Gauges" (can record speed, acceleration (all dimensions), sound).

    Was asked by Alcan to measure our u-bolts, see attached.  So, we are still a couple of weeks out from getting this done.

    U-bolt Order Template 032024 (1).pdf

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  4. Yikes - so sorry to hear this.  Good RV Techs must be masters of so many trades and must be highly skilled. Many shops hire anyone off the street, don't pay well and just give them an "RV Tech" labeled shirt and the not-so-much fun begins.   Finding a good local tech is a precious thing!!

  5. I removed our bike rack factory installed 1.5" receiver and noticed some corrosion on the underside of the rack where the u-bolts/washer attach .  Will be checking other fasteners / washers going through the aluminum members around the bumper/bike rack area and adding some thin delrin/acetal washers to put under the stainless washers and maybe adding a thin coat of Ultra Tef-Gel to the hole walls  -OR- should I do something different? 

    image.png.efe49abb81ba75e2fcd10e44d69ce4e0.png

  6. 21 hours ago, ChrisMI said:

    I would be more concerned (depending on ambient conditions) with the generator overheating with a tight fitting cover.  Something like an umbrella like cover vs an enclose would be my preference. 

    I agree with your concern.  I really don't like the cute little fire waiting to happen, especially given it's about half the price of a small Clam shelter which offers other uses.  

    Maybe just some flexible tent poles for $20 and tarp material with some plastic clips used for greenhouse covers - or, as @jd1923 mentioned, a golf umbrella!

  7. Thanks for everyone's comments.  Not sure about running any generator in the rain that isn't specifically designed for it.  See label below from Honda's EU2200 manual which is what we have.   On the other hand, please don't ask me if I have carefully read the entire manual before operation.  I have enough trouble with my hair as it is...don't want any of those zzzzap-curls!  I've gotten enough of those in the past 🤯

    image.png.f42477f4aea0f92c71758a8d9727cbe6.png

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  8. Oh....the wonderful memories!  Enjoy the great experience.  Despite similar wise counsel, we did not test "everything" - specifically how to dump our gray tank.  Went to dump it the first time at about 50% full and nothing would come out.  Oh dear....

    After a frantic call to Service, we came to realize we were pointed nose first downhill at this particular dump station.  Whoopies!  Fortunately for us, we had no Oliver flaws - only our own!

    We will not forget our great pick up experience and pray yours is even better!

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  9. Thanks for all the information.  This got me to take a closer look at our 2 5/16 BD.  Built a bit differently than the 7K. 
    No gusset but more of the tubing inside.  Would not rate the welds at "great".

    Is this similar to other's with 2 5/16?

    image.png.2b8020cbec7ba0a969fdb4d030c3894f.png

    image.png.a231e5c6be02a356c1617190d0982985.png

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  10. For those who have Fords, many of their FOBs have motion sensors.  After about 40 seconds, their transmitters turn off.  Sounds good unless you put your FOB in your pocket and are walking.  I tested the 40 second FOB sleep on my 2019 F250 and it does go to sleep.

    However, this fails if I put the FOB in my pants pocket without using some type of Faraday cage given my walking motion keeps the transmitter from falling asleep.

    Finally, just found this (oh the interwebs are just full of info LOL)...if you have bluetooth connectivity with your vehicle (say with your phone), you may want to consider turning it off.    

    Just does to show what my Daddy taught me...a lock is for an honest man. 😵

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  11. We use this little pouch...decent build quality.  Have tested it with our 2019 Ford FOB and it blocks signal.  Also blocks cell phone signal - so pretty good RF blocking.  The negative reviews are likely due to folks putting things in the outer (unprotected) pocket.  I have noticed there is signal leakage if the closure flap is left open.

     

     

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  12. One can fine lots of images for different tire wear patterns online.  I found the attached from a commercial fleet site and while there are no images, the descriptions are good.

    Additionally, just to stir the pot 😀I really trust this guy (see video below) who suggests that IF you are not seeing strange wear patterns, rotations are not really needed.   I have been rotating tires for 50 years....but now questioning it a bit.

     

    2024-01-13_18-19-10.jpg

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  13. @Emgmtg, I just took some no so great photos of my fins and noticed similar gaps,  My guess is for easy of assembly, the cutout is a tad larger than the fins.  This gap is also covered by the backing plate?  Was any sealant used around the edges of the backing plate when you disassembled? 

    Hope this helps.

    image.jpeg.60c2076a45dbd900b52a9224604f92f2.jpeg

    image.jpeg.1dbf728cce4c28342dd786bfdbab7f2a.jpegimage.jpeg.4ef7476fd035c17501bcd9ca25fe992a.jpeg

    image.jpeg.18946074b6a2c4fa060f07f72d9d50e9.jpeg

     

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  14. 10 hours ago, Dennis and Melissa said:

    Does anyone have advice/opinions on tonneau covers and/or bed-liners?

    We have a Ram 1500 with 6.5 foot bed.  Brand new, so just raw metal right now.  (My son is screaming at me to get the MOPAR spray in bed liner.)

    We're thinking we want something lockable, but not necessarily heavy duty.

    There's only 2 of us.  And the back seat space of the truck is quite large.  So, we don't plan on carrying much in the bed besides a few campground niceties and "overflow" luggage.  I can't imagine we would fill even half of it.

    We started with the Bakflip @topgun2 mentioned...also got a spray in liner.  The bed-rug is also a great ideas (ask my knees!).  We ended up with an ARE truck topper which we prefer - but there are loads of pros and cons between toppers and tonneau covers.  We were happy with the quality of the Bakflip,  Need to consider all uses of your two vechicle for a decision that works best for you all.

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  15. While I love CV@ grease, you might want to consider either a dry spray PTFE or white lithium instead on exposed applications like your steps. 

    While I am no grease expert, some suggest that since dry spray PTFE or white lithium is not as tacky or sticky as CV2, it will not keep as much road grime.  For this reason, I use CV2 in non-exposed areas (like bearings, wet bolts in suspension, etc.) and I use white lithium on exposed areas like hitch ball, rear bumper pins, etc.   I use a dry lube PTFE spray for steps, door latches, etc.  I have even switched to PTFE dry spray for jack struts as normal grease (even lithium) was getting nasty with road grime.  The downside to the PTFE is having to apply is more frequently, but it is very easy to do.  I use the 3-in-1 RVCare Window Track Dry lube spray for my window tracks.

    I am sure there are others much more experienced with grease applications and I would defer to them.

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  16. Our lessons learned with Girard remotes....

    1. We purchased a back-up controller (one is none philosophy) and after multiple calls with Girard Support we still can't get two remotes to simultaneously work with the motor controller.  So, we keep it as a spare to pair with the controller should the other fail.

    2. Battery life - is not very good (even using good quality batteries).

    3. We had a motion control module un-pair and was not working right (root cause was likely me fiddling around with lesson 1!).  Re-pairing the module with the controller requires the infamous "P2" button on the remote.  Our remote, like yours, has no P2 button.  SECRET - press the "IN" and "STOP" buttons simultaneously whenever the instructions call for the "P2" button to be used.  This is not shown in any of the Girard manuals (included in our Oliver manuals or on the Girard website) that we've seen.

    4. One does need owl eyes to see the remote displays.

    5. Blow off / clean off before retracting - having a small ladder and blower is nice for cleaning sticks/leaves off awning before retracting.  I am sure this helps the life of the awning fabric and motor parts.  The times we failed to do this, many of the leaves end up sticking to the bottom of the awning when it is extended.

    Overall we very much like the Girard awnings.

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  17. Yesterday, after an eventful unhitching in a spot with what seemed like an 8 degree incline (with lots of “help” from a neighbor) we settled in for a relaxing afternoon. Put chairs out, little table out, extended the awning.  We went out for a walk and when we walked back to our site, I noticed the 1/4” gap between our fully extended awning and a tree.  I am glad I didn’t buy lottery tickets yesterday as I used up all my luck on the awning.  

    Having our site setup checklist is great.  Using it, even better! 😅

    IMG_0830.jpeg

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  18. Thanks to everyone for all their comments, pictures and ideas.  We are investigating dual e-bikes with the 1-Up dual super duty rack and replacing the 1.5" Oliver receiver with a 2" Curtis 5000lb bumper mounted receiver.

    Having just watched a YouTube video on the results of over tightening some lug nuts, it made me think some more about the potential loads on a hitch receiver for a bike rack. 

    As I think about it, there are two ways to look at it.  Simple loads from acceleration (force = mass x acceleration), and then there is the boogey bear of shock loads.  I took my iPhone the other day and measure the g-force of a rather nasty bump in my truck and got about 2.5g at 40 MPH.  Given the max length of the 1-Up rack in a dual configuration of about 25.5" and a weight of two e-bikes w/o batteries and the weight of the rack, you get about  1000 fl-lbs of bump on the receiver.  Doubling it for safety brings one to 2000 ft-lbs.  Looking at shock loads yields exponentially higher figures.

    I am not totally confident of the following numbers (need help from some Mechanical Engineers!), but I used the following variables in a standard shock load formula for a rectangular beam 🤔.

    • 2 ea 65 lb bikes  - 130 lbs total (w/o batteries)
    • 47 lb rack on a 15" lever arm (over estimate as center of weight would be )
    • 3" drop bounce height (bumper bounce distance)
    • 25.5" total beam length from receiver to end of rack
    • 0.25" receiver wall thickness

    It's a guess as to how much the rear bumper actually could move/bounce on a large road bump.  I estimate approximately 0.6" of LEII rear bumper vertical movement for every 1" of tow vehicle bumper movement given the LEII's axle distance from hitch to LEII's rear bumper.

    I end up with close to 675,000 PSI of potential shock load being distributed over the face of the receiver mounting plate (approx 20-24 sq in). With a 4" trailer rear bumper bounce (6.7" rear tow vehicle bumper bounce) this goes to +750,000 PSI.  This gave me pause!  No inclusion of shock absorption from trailer suspension is taken into account, which I am sure in non-trivial and over estimates given that it assumed the trailer is a non-flexing beam with no suspension.  Use of good straps provide additional shock load dampening in addition to flat tire mitigation.  These number suggest getting rather high grade bolts for attachment of the receiver to the LEII bumper.

    As previously mentioned by @taylor.coyote@John E Davies and others, caution is needed!

    To reiterate, I am not a licensed Professional Engineer, so these number may be inaccurate. Spreadsheet attached for giggles!

    In addition to insulating the receiver plate from the bumper (with rubber, thin nylon sheet, or coating), any thoughts on using a nylon bushing through the LEII bumper to help mitigate bolt-to-bumper galvanic corrosion or would a thick coating of a galvanic corrosion coating work well enough?

    Bike Rack Forces Estimate.xlsx

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