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Margaret

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Posts posted by Margaret

  1. 26 minutes ago, Steph and Dud B said:

    Cracking a roof vent will help with internal condensation. You want to create a convection airflow, where warm most air inside rises and leaves via the roof vent. We usually crack ours just a little to accomplish that. If you also crack a window, I'd use the one by the dinette instead of over a bed and, again, just a crack to let cool dry air replace the warm most air leaving via the vent. 

    Not running the furnace may be contributing to your problem, too. The furnace warms up the space between the hulls a bit so the outer hull is the one in contact with the coldest air. That should cause most of the condensation to occur on the inside of the outer shell, then drain out the bottom. 

    I hope Service is able to help you get this resolved. Good luck. 

    Hi Steph and Dud B,

    Thanks for the reminder about the roof vent.  I’ve tried cracking windows, and it doesn’t resolve the leaky window.  You are absolutely right about the furnace.  I am well aware of that.  I do wish I could get that repaired.  I hope a savvy repair person shows up, bc I am unable to drive to TN at present.

    The plumbing issue is a separate issue that only occurs when I am using the pump and the freshwater tank (not on a full hook up).

    The leak only occurs in the morning, and it is indeed a lot of water that drains inside from under the window.  It has not been raining , so it must be condensation, but for some reason, fans, heaters, cracked windows , etc. are not resolving it. I do think the water is coming from outside the window somehow, even though it isn’t raining.  Can we post videos in the forum?

     

    Thanks for the nice reply

    Margaret

     

     


     


     

    The water is clearly draining from underneath the metal that

  2. 7 minutes ago, Mike and Carol said:

    Hmmmm.  Did you smell propane when it was on?  Mud daubers nests can usually be cleaned without replacing the appliance.  I had a nest in my AC, cleaned it out and all is fine.  Not sure why that would cause a leak.

    For water leaks, open your access panels under the dinette and curbside bed.  Use a blue paper towel and feel around to see if you can locate any moisture.  Do this with the pump on or while hooked up to city water.

    With an electric heater and the ceiling vents open we’ve not had any condensation issues even in overnight temps into the teens.  We have had some dampness, but nothing that gets a bed wet.

    Jason and his team at Oliver service will help.  Click on the Service tab at the top of the web page and fill out a ticket for each issue.  They will give you a call and may be able to do some long distance troubleshooting.  I hope the previous owner didn’t sell a trailer with known issues.

    Keep us posted.  Mike

    I will do so.  Right now, I am most concerned about the water that drips down from under the window in rivulets, and that’s what gets the bed wet.  I am not sure if that is condensation or not?  Is it safe to caulk under the window, or ill advised.  Thank you so much for the advice, and I will do my best to keep you posted.

     

    Margaret

  3. 52 minutes ago, Katjo said:

    Awwh Margaret, I’m so sorry you are having all these issues, how very disheartening for you. Did you open a ticket with Oliver? Hopefully they can get your Ollie back up to speed. I wish I had answers for you. For the condensation we have found leaving the vent or a window open and using a few Damp Rids helps a lot, we also run a small dehumidifier.   

    Thanks Katjo!

     

    I think I will open a ticket.  I have cracked windows, and it helps with interior condensation, but not for the weird drip under the window that occurs in the morning.  Damp Rids and a humidifier are a good idea.  I will open the ticket tonight.  Problem is, I’m skirted for winter . . . .

     

    Margaret

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  4. 1 hour ago, Mike and Carol said:

    Sorry to hear about all of your issues.  For the Colorado folks it would be helpful to know your location before recommending an RV tech.

    For your leaky windows, did you try putting some water on them with a hose since you’ve had no rain since cleaning the tracks?

    It sounds like a lot of condensation.  We’ve not had any significant problem with condensation and we’ve camped all over to include many Colorado locations.  Do you keep one or both of your ceiling vents open at night?  Are you able to run an electric space heater?

    I’m surprised no RV techs have been able to locate your freshwater leak.  Do you have the leak when using the water pump or just while on city water?  With the system pressurized you should be able to look under the dinette seats to see if there is moisture that might indicate it is coming from the bathroom.  Checking under the curbside bed (both access points) for moisture on the floor would tell if it is from all the plumbing on that side.  A blue paper towel is your friend when doing checks.  If there is no moisture on either side of the trailer then looking under the basement floor in the back would be the next area to check.  That entails emptying the basement and lifting the floor to examine the water lines that run from the city water inlet on the back side of the trailer around the curbside, past the furnace and hot water to the water pump area.   If you raise or lower the front of the trailer does it make a difference in the amount or location of water leaking from under the trailer?

    I just repaired a freshwater leak that I had.  I checked all the hull access points and found no moisture.  I disassembled the basement to find moisture, but the pex lines were dry.  When I checked around the furnace and hot water heater I found a cracked plastic Pex T-joint coming out of the hot water tank down below the heating ducts that was dripping whenever the water system was pressurized. I had missed that when checking the back access hatch at the bed.  When I stuck a blue paper towel down there I found the leak.   I replaced it with a brass T-joint.

    If you have a serious propane leak I would have that looked at right away.  You might be able to find a propane guy that would help.  The guy we use for our home propane told me once he could help with any propane issues I might have with my trailer.

    Same with your electrical, I’m not an expert and would have a regular electrician or qualified RV tech troubleshoot.

    Is your trailer still under warranty?  Have you opened trouble tickets with service?  Once you do they will call to help.

    Thank you, Mike and Carol,

    Ok, so first, are you suggesting running a hose against the window as a diagnostic test to find the window leak?  What do you think about caulking underneath the window?

    I didn’t have any issues with condensation until the nights got really cold (think Winter).  I was happy with the lack of condensation.  However, when temps hit 20, as they regularly do after sunset, the fiberglass gets really cold, even on the inside.  It may be that my inability to use the furnace contributes to that, but yes, I am running an electric heater.  I still don’t know if the window leak is from condensation, or what it is.  I am surmising it comes from dew or condensation outside, since the water is coming from outside.  I think opening the vents is a good idea.

    As for the RV techs, I think they just aren’t doing what they’re supposed to be doing.  I went to a fancy place in Denver, and they blamed the freshwater leak on me.  They said I wasn’t keeping the camper level enough, and other such nonsense.  They were condescending and dismissive (kind of like doctors sometimes are), so enough of that . . . .    I think your suggestions for locating a leak are good.  I’m pretty sure the leak only occurs when I’m using the pump and freshwater tank, not when I’m using city water and a hook up.

    I did have the propane leak looked at.  The first guy , who is a friend with a Box truck conversion, used soapy water, and didn’t find anything.  The second guy, who was an actual tech, found Mud Dauber’s nests in the furnace (likely from the camper’s original Texas home), so he supposedly cut off gas access to the furnace, and was going to order a new furnace, but said I could keep the propane on for cooking.  However, after he left, both the propane monitor and my stand alone monitor started beeping like crazy, and the tanks emptied out.  So now I’m not sure if I should continue using him or not.

    I will try electricians and propane companies.  Those are good ideas.  The trailer is no longer under warranty, but I could open a ticket with Oliver.  I am not in a position, however, to take a lot of long drives, and my camper is skirted at present.

    I will edit my post , and add my location.

    Thanks again,

     

    Margaret

     

     

     

     

     


     

    • Like 2
  5. Hi there,

    My window is leaking quite a bit of water out of the bottom , under the metal strip.  This happens every morning after a cold night, when the sun hits the window in the morning.

    Three of my windows have leaked when it rains, and I cleaned all the weep holes and tracks, but it has not rained since I cleaned the tracks, so I don’t know if rain is still an issue.  

    This is specifically an issue with some type of condensation or humidity coming in from the outside after a cold night, when the sun comes up and warms the window.  I am in a micro climate (high desert in CO) in which winter nights can be well below freezing (single digits or less at times), while days can be quite warm, and temps can rise into the 40s.  The location is an arid high valley surrounded by very high mountains on all sides, so the mountains create a protective barrier.  All of this creates a big difference between cold nights and warmer days.

    Every morning, my bed gets wet, not good when you have mold sensitivities.  So this is specifically an issue with some type of condensation or humidity coming in from the outside after a cold night, when the sun comes up and warms the window, see pic.

    I tried cracking the window during the night, but this does not solve the problem.  The Oliver windows are tricky, so I don’t know how to prevent the leak, because I have been told not to apply sealant (??) though my inclination would be to caulk the inside edge (?)  What else can I do?

    Brief rant alert:  I spent a big chunk of my savings when I bought this Oliver, but she has been a 🍋.   😭😭😭   The windows have leaked, there has been a leak between the hulls whenever I use fresh water, with water coming out of the clam shell openings in the bottom, and I have had a significant gas leak, and cannot use the furnace or stove at present.  There is a problem with the electrical circuit, where fuses are blowing, and my newly replaced battery never shows an adequate charge.  Now, the bathroom fan no longer works, and I am having issues with condensation when the fiberglass gets cold (in addition to window leaking).  My Oliver isn’t that old, but I feel like I’m living in a leaky boat, unable to use many of the features.

    The RV techs have not found the source of the fresh water leak, and many of the techs here are busy, and keep bailing on me (combination weird pandemic after effects, and some wonky people in Colorado who tend to take advantage of “tourists.”).

    Rant over, let’s start with the windows?  If any of you live in CO, do you know of any good mobile techs?   I am in Buena Vista, CO. Sorry, I think photos uploaded upside down.

    Thanks,

     

    Margaret
     

     

     

    ED7633CD-4CE6-42C8-86D1-4F4BD1A792F2.jpeg

    431630E8-F31D-48C6-B12D-F83EBB603BF5.jpeg

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  6. 11 hours ago, John E Davies said:

    Electricity for a space heater is a better choice than propane IF the outside temps aren’t too cold. That is why do many people use the heaters when plugged in. Yes, it doesn’t get under the floor, that is why you need to open up access hatches, pantry and closet doors, and the bathroom door, to let it circulate better. But pipes can freeze if the furnace isn’t working.

    A 1500 watt heater is roughly 5000 btus. The furnace is 40,000. So that is why it must work properly in bitter cold temperatures IF you also want to keep water in the plumbing. Do you know how to winterize your Ollie?

    FYI electricity in Spokane is $0.10 per kilowatt hour. So a 1500 watt heater costs $0.15 every hour that it runs. If it runs roughly 30% of the time, that is about $1.00 per day. You also have to figure in the cost of propane in your area, and whether the hassle of dragging two big tanks to get refilled is worth it. I personally find refilling to be an unrewarding use of my time and energy. Especially if I have to burn a lot of gasoline to get there.

    John Davies

    Spokane WA

    Hi John,

     

    Hi John,

     

    So the temperatures are in the 30s and 40s during the day, but much colder at night. The nighttime temperatures can qualify as bitter cold. I am hoping that skirting the camper, which I have not yet done, might help. I could also put a very small, low wattage space heater underneath. My pipes haven’t frozen so far. The lowest temperatures have so far been in the mid- to low 20s at night.  However, as Winter proceeds, the temperatures at night can go as low as -10 or -15.  Last year, the lowest temperature was -20. I hope You Floridians don’t read this, because I know you’re going to have a heart attack, ha ha! Fortunately, I am used to subzero temps.

    as far as winterizing, I purchased a heated water hose, wrapped a pipe cable around my sewer hose and insulated it, and I dump a little RV antifreeze into my black water and gray water tanks before I go to bed. My plan is to skirt the camper, and to place a very low wattage heater on a low setting underneath the skirting. Said heater will be propped up with bricks or what have you to prevent tipping over.   I could also use one of those chicken House lightbulbs.

     

    Thank you , John

     

    Margaret

     

    I could also use one of those chicken house lightbulbs.

    Thank you for the reminder to open up the kitchen drawers, the hatches, closets, and bathroom door.

     

    Margaret

     

  7. 11 hours ago, John E Davies said:

    What is your elevation where you are now?

    John Davies

    Spokane WA

    Oh boy.  Aye, there’s the rub, or might be.  I am at 8,000 ft.  John.   I’ve heard that elevation can be a problem in an Oliver, Which doesn’t really make sense to me, because one of the primary things people do with campers is to go camping up in the mountains, with places like Colorado being a big draw, no? So why wouldn’t they make furnaces that could handle elevation? If it’s the propane, I purchased my tanks locally.

    • Like 1
  8. I seem to remember that someone asked where (s)he could find a reliable RV repair person in WA?  I have the same question for Colorado.

    Just about everyone I've tried so far has been a bust.  The place I used in Denver was marginally a scam.

    I did find one good tech, but he is swamped, stressed, and doesn't answer the phone or texts.

    Ugh, CO during a pandemic. . . .

     

    Thanks!   Margaret 

  9. 18 hours ago, Mike and Carol said:

    Hopefully, you don’t smell gas anymore.  I can’t add anything to what John suggests above.  I would be sure to check to make sure the ducting is connected and you aren’t just heating up in space between the hulls.  Mike

    Hi Mike,

    How do I check this?  I assume I look in the same compartment where plumbing is located?

     

    Thank you!  

    Margarwt

     

     

  10. 19 hours ago, John E Davies said:

    Is there hot air coming out of the exhaust port? It should be too hot to hold your hand over it for more than a second or two.

    Do your other propane appliances work OK now, after the repairs?

    If they all are still screwed up, you still have a gas supply issue, it could be the regulator has failed, the pressure adjustment is wrong, a blockage (wasp nest in the air vent opening) , all sorts of possibilities. 

    IF the others work right, there is a problem in the furnace itself. It is 40,000 btus, it should never struggle unless you have the windows open and it is crazy cold outside. How cold are the night temperatures?

    Have you looked at the air ducts? Are they all attached properly, not torn, crushed, eaten by rodents?

    Have you tried setting the thermostat to full hot? Does that change anything?

    YOU need to go through some basic troubleshooting, to narrow down where the problem lies. Unfortunately the RV techs are swamped and have been for years. You may have to rely on electric heaters, if they are inadequate you need better ones. Open up cabinets and access hatches overnight. Good luck, this sucks….

    I replaced my ancient box heater with this little heater, it works wonderfully well in place of the furnace. But I haven’t tried it below freezing yet.

    Dreo Space Heaters for Indoor Use, Atom One Portable Heater with 70°Oscillation, 1500W PTC Electric Heater with Thermostat, Fast Safety Heat, Remote, 1-12h Timer, Upgraded Small Heater for Office Home

    John Davies

    Spokane WA

    Hi John!

    Thank you for the reply.  I do believe there is hot air coming out of the exhaust, but I will check again in the morning, and see how hot it is.

    My gas stove works, yes, but I'm not sure if the hot water is on gas or electric.  As for the fridge, I would have to kill the electricity to see if it reverts to gas.

    Regulator, pressure adjustment, blockage from insects.  I will try to remember those.

    40k BTUs is a lot, but yes, it is indeed cold.  It isn't that cold tonight, but temps have been in the 20s, and have gone as low as 26.  I think I tried using the heater when temps were in the 30s , and it still wasn't reaching set point.  I am confused, because I thought this was a four-season trailer?  When I had a single-hull Casita, it kept me warm down to zero F, and likely would have kept me warm at Sub-Zero temps.

    I have looked at the ducts, and they seem fine, but I will examine them more carefully.  I have not tried full hot, but I have tried significantly higher temps, and the thing just struggled even more, and was unable to keep up.

    Yes, it does kind of suck, bc honestly, I have had so many issues with this particular hull.  I have had leaking windows, a leaky hull, an A/C that malfunctioned, etc.

    I was using a Lasko Ceramic heater; I am now using a Vornado.  But this will be expensive for me.  Electricity is not included here.  In addition, I'm not sure if electric heaters are as good at keeping the pipes from freezing?

     

    Thank you, John

  11. Hi all,

    Anyone have an idea why my gas furnace can’t catch up to set point (I.e. temperature set on thermostat)?  It blows out warm air, but struggles, and ultimately, the ambient temperature gets colder and colder.  
     

    I should add that I had a distinct leak.  I smelled gas, and the furnace worked as long as I had gas in the tank, but after about four or five days, the furnace would sputter (and have trouble catching up), the stove would die, and I would have to refill my tanks.  I also got brand new tanks, just in case.
     

    The RV repair guy claims to have fixed the leak (I will know in a few days) by replacing the hoses in the nose where the propane tanks are located, but now the furnace, though it blows warm air, is unable to catch up to thermostat.  It gets colder and colder inside.

    I told the repair guy, and he said he would be back to fix it, but well, you know how that goes. He isn’t answering the phone or his texts.  I realize he is swamped with work orders, and his truck has mechanical issues, but that means I have to rely on space heaters that are expensive, and that also don’t adequately heat the space.

     

    Thanks, Margaret 

  12. On 8/8/2022 at 6:08 AM, Patriot said:

    Margaret,

    You may want to pull your window seals out and inspect and clean the track beneath that seal. Clean the seals as well. The seals will easily go right back in after you remove them. Any dirt or debris that builds up in the window track will not allow water to properly drain through the exterior window weep holes. When the weep holes are blocked the water will over flow and eventually leak into your interior.
    We use an air compressor or you can use compressed air in a can to help in cleaning these tracks out. We clean the window tracks about every second or third wash and have not had any issues. 
    Hope this helps.

    Patriot

    Here is a very helpful link -

     

     

    Yes, Patriot,

    That's very helpful, actually.

    Where can I get compressed air?

    My Oliver is going to a repair shop on Monday, so I imagine they can do it there.

    Thank you, Patriot

  13. 5 hours ago, Mike and Carol said:

    If you don’t turn the pump off after using the faucet the pump should stop just like Steve explains.  When we don’t have city water we often keep the water pump on, it only pumps when we turn on the water somewhere and the quits a few seconds later.  If it doesn’t you have a water leak or an air leak somewhere.  Sometimes, if we get air in the lines, I will turn the pump on and open all the faucets for a minute to get the air out.  It usually solves that problem.  Check the connections around the water pump.  Make sure the little filter on the pump is fully screwed on.  Mike

    Thanks Mike!

    I had already tried turning on the pump and opening all the faucets to get the air out.

    I checked the connections around the pump, as well as checking the filter 

    Is it possible there is a leak in the fresh water tank itself?

    Now that the windows have leaked too, I feel like I'm in a leaky boat out at sea (and this is monsoon season in CO, AZ, and NM.  

    Thank you

     

     

     

  14. 6 minutes ago, Ray Kimsey said:

    I was going to say if you leave the pump on for some amount of time and it comes back on without turning on a faucet, then it probably is leaking somewhere.  Since you are cutting it off, the pump cannot come back on. It might also explain why you are getting the sputtering like there is air in the line. My guess is that one of the plastic fittings may not be tight. They come loose easily. Start by looking under the curbside bed for any puddles of water or even remove the bedding and open the panels and turn on the pump briefly to see if you see water. Maybe try tightening all the white fittings (hand tighten) on the pex lines under the curb side bed. Others may have some other ideas for you.

     

    So if I turn on the button that says, "Water pump," I can hear it run.  I don't believe it shuts off until I actually turn the switch off.  It makes a continuous vibration-like sound when in on position.  I will check pipes under bed, and report back.

    • Like 2
  15. 5 minutes ago, Ray Kimsey said:

    One question.  When you are running water the pump usually comes on to build up the pressure. Once you quit using water, the pump will then rund for a few seconds longer  and then quit. Does the pump ever come on without running water or do you typically shut off the pump afterwards?

     

    Hi Ray, no, it does not come on on its own.  I shut it off after use by using the switch.  

  16. Hi there,

    When I turn on my water pump (when not on a full hook up), the water pressure is bad, and the faucets sputter like there is air in the line.

    In addition, there is water coming out of the weep hole in the bottom.  Usually there is more than what is shown in pics. I just turned on the faucet so I could show you the issue .  So usually, I end up with a fairly large wet spot on the pavement.

    Last night, there was also water under the fridge.

    Does this necessarily mean I have a leak (I researched old posts)??  I really hope not, bc I have significant mold sensitivity.  

    I can hear the pump running when I turn it on, do I don't think the issue is with the pump itself 

     

    Thank you!

     

    IMG_20220807_135448565_HDR.jpg

    IMG_20220807_135412716.jpg

  17. On 7/27/2022 at 8:13 AM, Mountainman198 said:

    Dog Canyon campground, Guadalupe NP.  60 miles South of Carlsbad, NM, just barely over the border into Texas.  Only 4 RV sites.  No hookups but potable water and flush toilets nearby.  The 4 RV sites are close together but the hiking, scenery and wildlife are wonderful and the peacefulness is great.  I have been there three times now and two times was the ONLY camper in the whole campground for several days.  A bit out of the way but worth it.

     

    https://www.nps.gov/gumo/planyourvisit/dog_canyon_campground.htm

    That sounds just lovely, Mountainman!  It certainly beats those RV parks, where people are packed together like sardines!  

    • Like 3
  18. On 7/22/2022 at 1:42 PM, SeaDawg said:

    One of my favorites  (and there are so many!) was on the Gaspe peninsula, Quebec. Most of the Provincial and national campgrounds were closed, so we "settled" for Camping Griffon. Simple rv park, we were one of maybe three campers there in early October, and we watched whales from our campsite. 

    The owners were so very nice, even though we spoke little French, they spoke some pretty good English.  Our camper was so small, they gave us a seaside tent site. The showers were older but clean and heated, and a very short walk in the brisk evening!

    Things have possibly changed. That's 12 or 14 years ago. But, the Gaspe is a beautiful drive.. do it north to south, if possible,  as you generally are on the land side,  not feeling like you're hanging out on the edge of the cliff (though you are, sometimes. )

    I’ve been to the Gaspe Peninsula!  I was there about 30 years ago, though, so I imagine things have indeed changed.  Yes, it was indeed magnificent.  An ex bf and I drove the entire peninsula, but we stayed in youth hostels, as this was before I had ever owned any tents or campers.  We went to Percé Rock, and also to a National park, name fails me.  We went up to the mountains and saw permafrost (still there???) and saw caribou,  It was cold, for summer!

    • Like 5
  19. What has been your favorite camping spot for your Oliver, ever?  This includes anywhere in the U.S., Canada, or Mexico.  

     

    Thank you, Margaret

    This is where I've tent camped in the past, but Ollie is different, though a shorty might have made it up there.  

    The Lost Man Campground in Colorado, 10k feet in altitude.  The yellow tent was mine.  Screenshot_20220722-000244_20220722000407414.jpg.6023bc06e4f1e5a3b4ef14c7064571e5.jpg

     

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