John and Debbie
-
Posts
656 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
3
Posts posted by John and Debbie
-
-
9 hours ago, BoondockingAirstream said:
Previous owner took the 2019 Oliver Elite II into a 'Truma Service Provider'. The Truma was not operationally. The previous owner showed me the last service ticket that the Truma was Fixed, before I purchased the Oliver.
It did not work. I took it apart... obviously... the Service Provider was tired of hearing from the Precious Owner, after THREE Service calls. The Fourthm maybe third was the copy given to me.
When I called the Truma Service that did the 'service under warranty', they became tired of me, as well. I have wondered if Truma Inc. was charged for these Service Calls.
I was notified in the U S Mail recently, that Truma would replace the... PART... that was faulty. A RECALL. Of what kind?
I sent photographs of MY Truma to Oliver...My Repairs... when I discovered the Truma leaked water into the Oliver... see photograph. I was disappointed that Oliver Inc. would not do anything to make it right. The original owner obviously had no fix and did not intentionally damage the copper tank heater.
Obviously the local Service Provider... DID FIX IT... permanently.
When I received the Recall Notice... I was not approved by Oliver Inc.... as I tried to FIX IT, myself. Once removing parts... no wonder it was not going to work.
I will find a much simpler system to install, like a 6 gallon simple Dometic Hot Water system, like the one that has operated perfectly in my 2019 Airstream, since new.
Am I happy? Guess. My Truma was within the numbers of the so called recall. My Truma never worked for me, nor the original owner. I have owned the Oliver Elite II since February 2022. My Problem... says Truma and Oliver. Otherwise our perfect Off the Grid Boondocking travel trailer.
I have had three Airstreams, new since 2006. Kept the 2019 27 foot Airstream and the 2019 Oliver Elite II. I like a Travel Trailer that is simple to operate, works, and some appliances that can be worked on if in remote locations.
The 6 gallon Dometics worked perfectly since 2006. When I began to FIX the Truma myself... This is WHAT I FOUND. Photographs are October 2022. Purchased Oliver February 2022 from original owner.
The Truma was an UPGRADE for an Oliver. ...for what? For... Selling spare parts... I guess. I also noted Truma is pushing their hot water tanks. Customer satisfaction is interesting. I know, I was an owner operated business for decades. Happy customers and friends return... I had to retire. I understand that a customer and referrals, keeps one busy. (I edited this after reading.)
Our Truma Aquago water heater has worked great since new. I wouldn't go back to a tank water heater. We had that in the previous trailer. I also wouldn't try to repair it as I don't have the tools or knowledge.
John
-
3
-
-
1 hour ago, Galileo said:
The sound of the circulating pump and the sound of the flame coming on are normal. If you’re outside and listening very carefully, you’ll likely hear the “ticking” of the igniter and a fan noise that keeps the combustion going in the right direction. Those are normal sounds.
The Truma manual says that “boiling water” sounds means you need to descale.
Popping, whooshing, thumping, or banging are abnormal sounds associated with improper combustion from gas burning in the wrong places. That was my tip-off to the problem.
“Galway Girl’s” documentation of the loose burner tube problem is what prompted me to pull out the burner yo check the tubes. I was initially “disappointed” to see the times were all in place. “Nuts! Now what’s the problem!?” I thought. Flipping the burner over and seeing that big plume of soot on the bottom of the tubes and around the nut attaching the gas line to the manifold prompted me to check the nut. Loose. Could move it freely with my fingers.
Though I didn’t see much in the way of “crimps” on any of the burner tubes. (They’re smaller than I was expecting - my experience being with 2 foot long tubes on household gas boilers.) Mine were all in place and tight.Still, disappointing that a premium gas appliance in a premium trailer apparently didn’t get designed or assembled too carefully. Gas burning where it shouldn’t be goes beyond “inconvenient” and well into “dangerous” and “liability” territory.
We put a couple of thousand miles on our LEII every year, and I’ve had several things vibrate or shake loose causing failures. It just reminds me that a good, thorough “preflight” inspection is called for and know trouble areas need to be checked frequently. Ironically, the stuff they tell you to check - like wheel lug torque - never seem to have issues. Go figure.
What is your "preflight" inspection? Is that in the manual or a list you made up? Thanks.
John
-
On 1/12/2025 at 10:27 AM, topgun2 said:
On my Garmin 890 there are three calculation modes - "faster time", "Shorter Distance", and "Off Road".
Plus, there are a bunch of "Avoidances" and even "custom avoidances".
The only one I don't see is "Less Fuel".
Bill
What's the best tool/app to use to avoid roads that might have low overpasses or road conditions that we need to avoid? I don't have a Garmin.
John
-
Welcome to the Oliver family. We took a bit of time deciding also as they are not cheap, but like you, we decided that you do get what you pay for. Have a great time with your Ollie.
John
-
21 hours ago, Mike and Carol said:
I’m starting to think about and plan a Route 66 trip. Does anyone have Route 66 experience or have any advice? We’ve done a lot of I-40 but never took the time to deviate on to the old highway where it still exists. Any recommendations for maps/guides? Mike
Mike, there is a cycling map put out by the Adventure Cycling Association that is called Route 66 cycling map. I cycled part of the old highway 66 when I cycled from Amarillo, Texas to New Brunswick, Canada in 2019. There aren't a lot of original segments of route 66. We were on some parts when they were the frontage roads along I-40. No shoulder, two lanes, a little shallow curb to direct rain water. It's amazing that it was the main highway from Chicago to Santa Monica. There are some great sights along the way. Shamrock, Texas stood out to me.
John
-
3
-
1
-
-
1 hour ago, Rivernerd said:
What you have done fits the protocol for Lithionics batteries, but that procedure is only required every 6 months when not in use, not monthly. See attached storage procedure.
Lithionics Storage Procedure Rev.7.pdf 143.35 kB · 0 downloads
Thanks for the info. You and I have very similar hull numbers, which I knew.
John
-
Hi all, I have received two different recommendations for care of lithium batteries. Initially I was told it was ok to just have the trailer plugged into shore power continuously. Later, I was told to cycle the batteries monthly to bring them down to 12.1 volts. Last month I unplugged both at the trailer and the house and watched the voltage drop. It never got down to 12.1v, but at 12.6v and 10% soc the batteries turned off. I then plugged the trailer back in. Batteries are at 100% soc. I haven't unplugged since last month. What is everyone else doing with battery maintenance with their lithium batteries? Thanks.
John
-
5 hours ago, Mike and Carol said:
Is this for real?
What's the payload ?
-
Mike, I use a five pound canister for our 30+ year old Coleman two burner stove. I have a short hose about three feet long that works. I have the quick connects front and back on our trailer, but this old stove works fine. I couldn't find a hose that would work with both the quick connects and the old stove, hence our solution to use the small tank.
John
-
1
-
-
On 10/22/2024 at 2:53 PM, johnwen said:
We're in southern Mississippi just after traversing some pretty rough roads across Louisiana. We've retorqued the u bolts per Alcan's recommendations and then some. A few still need minor tweaking so I'll continue checking for another 1000 miles or so. The Alcans seem to be doing great and I'm glad we went that route. Lew and Tucker were a pleasure to meet and they taught me a few things 🙂 I changed my Oliver shocks in July, in Maine, with Monroe Magnum 555001s. Upon completion of the springs install in Colorado, Tucker informed me 1 of the struts were blown and would not extend after compressing it. We continued on to our next destination without the bad shock installed and I re-installed another 555001 after a visit with O'Reilly (not a common stock item so had to be ordered ahead of time). All was going well until Louisiana roads...after reaching Lake Mary Crawford, a public fishing lake by Monticello, MS, I discovered 2 more shocks leaking, removed them and ordered 2 more from O'Reilly. Only 1 came in so I reinstalled the best of the 2. They would extend ok after compressing so I figure they has some life left, but had oil that had leaked from the top of the shock. I wiped the shocks down and will check on them from time to time until getting back to SC. I'm thinking the frequent severe porpoising through dips in the road for over 30+ miles may have forced the oil out and down the bottom outside cylinder. We will see if the struts continue to leak and report back at a later date. My TV now has 121000+ miles (over 21000 so far this year alone since leaving SC) on it and I'm seriously thinking about replacing the shocks on it when we get back. They're not leaking nor appear in bad shape but the truck seems to be a little more springy on hard stops and porpoises a little more than when newer. The tires are new so no unusual wear at this time. I have had zero problems with exchanging the bad shocks at O'Reilly's (lifetime guarantee...thanks Steve L) but am thinking I'll want to try another brand to see if it lasts a little longer. Still happy campers here... 🙂
John
"I have had zero problems with exchanging the bad shocks at O'Reilly's (lifetime guarantee...thanks Steve L) but am thinking I'll want to try another brand to see if it lasts a little longer. Still happy campers here... :)"
I got a message from Lew at Alcan Springs and he was hoping that RadFlo could be the best choice for a shock, but theirs were about $200 each. I will be bringing four shocks with me of the Bulldog equivalent to the Monroe 555001 if those are available. We will have the five leaf spring replacement done in April.
John
-
1
-
-
We had CGI do ours after owning it for a year. I assumed that since it was only a year old that they would have an easier job. No. The price was the same. Colin said that even on a new trailer, they have to buff out the swirls and imperfections on the gel coat. They did a great job and we have no regrets. We did buy the cleaner and the spray that they sell to extend the ceramic coat. I cleaned it and used the spray a couple months ago. It's been a year since they did it and it looks fantastic. I am nearly 73 so waxing every 6 months as recommended wasn't going to happen. When it needs it again, we will have them do it.
John
-
2
-
-
19 hours ago, thompsonkd said:
Wondering if you or anyone else has recommendations for a brand of shocks. Sounds like you still like Monroe, despite the issues you have had; I have heard people also recommend Bulldog shocks but had trouble getting them? I think most Oliver’s come stock with Monroe. We are planning on replacing our shocks as well as the springs in the next few months.
Contact Lew at Alcan Springs in Grand Junction, Colorado. I have been in contact with him and he has a shock in mind for when we visit him in April for a five spring leaf spring replacement of our current four leaf.
John
-
2
-
1
-
-
1 hour ago, mossemi said:
As a general rule, I wouldn’t like that much jack extension, but when I am camping I will except less than favorable conditions.
Your scenario seems to be a long term condition, so I would find a solution to minimize the jack extension. A thought that comes to mind is to build 2 ramps out of different lengths of 2x6 or 2x8 boards and back the tow vehicle onto the ramps which will raise the tongue and create room for more wood under the jack pad
Mossey
I do have two red auto ramps. I wonder how hard it would be to hook up using those to get the hitch up that high. It would be easy to use those to unhook though. Maybe reworking the gravel pad to make it more level, just thinking outloud.
John
-
1
-
-
Hi all, I use yellow Camco jack stands and a couple 2×4 pieces on top for a slip surface on all three jack stands. I park the trailer by the garage and there's a slight downwards slope to where that gravel drive meets up with the road. The rear jacks only need to extend a couple inches, but the front jack extends 12 inches out to the jack stand/2×4 pieces to get to level. Is that too far? Obviously, the less travel the better, but when I back the trailer into the spot, one jack stand and one layer of two 2×4 on top are all that will fit while hooked up.
John
-
Congrats from #1290. We have enjoyed ours. It tows so easily. Nice to know there's an Oliver dealer in Denver as our daughter lives there and we could get some service done there while visiting.
John
-
Hi all, I use yellow Camco jack stands and a couple 2×4 pieces on top for a slip surface on all three jack stands. I park the trailer by the garage and there's a slight downwards slope to where that gravel drive meets up with the road. The rear jacks only need to extend a couple inches, but the front jack extends 12 inches out to the jack stand/2×4 pieces to get to level. Is that too far? Obviously, the less travel the better, but when I back the trailer into the spot, one jack stand and one layer of two 2×4 on top are all that will fit while hooked up.
John
-
On 10/5/2024 at 8:36 AM, Rivernerd said:
Thanks for posting. All Oliver owners need to know that the factory 4-leaf springs have a limited life, and that springs often fail far from home, because that is when they are asked to flex the most. That is why I now have a set of four Alcan 5-leaf springs for my Elite II.
Did you replace the leaf springs or have them with you in case you do need them? Is there a particular weight rating for the 5-leaf springs from Alcan? I plan to get the 5-leaf springs next April and have the shop in Grand Junction install them. What did you do with the shocks? Lew said he could put better shocks on our Elite II than the Monroe. Our trailer and yours are only one hull number apart. Thanks.
-
1
-
-
4 hours ago, John Dorrer said:
Doubt it is a black tank issue. Gray tank yes. We had our tanks cleaned at the Rally and use a Pine-Sol mix. We always use the black tank flush after emptying and flush out the gray as well.
John
How do you flush the gray tank? TIA.
John
-
1 hour ago, jd1923 said:
Not a big concern at driveway speeds. Check with a local trailer shop. They would have a variety of choices and could weld the mount.
That was my thought too. I would think that their 500 pound limit takes into account the forces on the hitch of a static weight of 500 pounds hitting some movement. With highway movement that weight would be higher on the hitch. From physics the formula F=ma would explain it I would think. F is force, m=mass, a=acceleration. I would think that at driveway speeds it would be ok too. Thanks for your comment.
John
-
2
-
-
Hi all, I have a tight parking spot next to the garage and thought a front mounted hitch would make it easier to maneuver the trailer into the spot. E-trailer has one that would fit my 2017 Ford Expedition EL, but the specs say it's only good for 500 pounds of vertical force. If anyone uses a front hitch, what did you do to make it work? Thanks
-
3
-
-
On 8/26/2024 at 9:21 PM, jd1923 said:
Just got this today and it looks great. Thanks to those who suggested it! amazon.com/dp/B00H7LPKKU?ref=fed_asin_title
I have one too. Don't unscrew and loosen the gripper too much as you can lose the little parts that grip on to the zerk. There are about three or four little pieces that will be lost. How do I know this? I did just that and had to buy another 90 degree attachment. Great tool though!
John
-
1
-
-
11 hours ago, John Dorrer said:
I will be picking the trailer up on 9/17 and plan on asking them about replacing the springs with Alcan's. Also, plan on having new shocks installed at the same time. I pay around $52 for the zerks. I don't want to mess with it.
Hi John, what shocks are you going to use? Lew at Alcan suggested RadFlo. We plan to do the job in Grand Junction and do springs and shocks at the same time. $52 sounds like a good deal to avoid doinf the job.
John
-
13 hours ago, John Dorrer said:
Look for a truck service place. We have one 5 minutes away
They grease our zerks, inspect the suspension, etc. I will have a discussion about switching out the springs, when we pick up the trailer and stop to get the zerks greased for our trip.
John, what do they charge you to do that? I need to crawl under the trailer this week to grease ours.
John
-
Welcome to the family from #1290. You will enjoy yours.
John
-
1
-
Update on Alcan springs and Monroe shocks...
in Mechanical & Technical Tips
Posted
I bought the Bulldog HD1213-0656 for my upcoming Alcan 5 leaf conversion.
John