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Alberta and Randy

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Posts posted by Alberta and Randy

  1. On 2/18/2024 at 9:12 PM, Geronimo John said:

    First check the connections.  If they are firm, then dusting likely will not make any difference other than it will be cleaner.  

    Yep, if we press slightly on the black lead wire at the connection/solder point it causes the tank reading at the monitor to jump numbers. So this may be the culprit! We are going to monitor on our upcoming trip and may end up trying to put a daub of solder back on to "tighten" that connection, if possible.

    • Like 6
    • Love 1
  2. Thanks everyone for your comments or suggestions!

    Tom and Doreen - thanks for the link, that was an informative read. I need to measure, visually verify, our tank to see if it is less than 14" tall, indicating there is only one sensor strip to go out. In my troubleshooting imagination, I could see two stacked strips and the top one went bad. 🙂

    Jason Foster - we use the black tank flush port (multiple times), that sprays water into the tank.

    Geronimo John - I have not tried dusting the sensor, thanks for that suggestion. I'll get a can of compressed air to blow on the sensor, from a distance.

    Mike and Carol - we have put Dawn dish liquid in the tank before using the black tank flush port, to help break down whatever.  We have not tried to soften the water so I can try that with borax....or driving around with a full-ish tank and dish soap & borax. We have regularly used Happy Camper for maintenance during our ownership. Two years of ownership and the readings started acting up in the last few months so I suspect this is nothing to do with the previous owners.

    SeaDawg - we regularly use our toilet, just not for poop. We will try using Mike & Carol's method, with more attention to detail on where our previous methods have differed from theirs and see (hopefully, fingers crossed) if we get different results. I would much prefer to clean then replace a part, if possible.

     

    Thanks again everyone for the input! We will keep plugging away on this issue until we get it resolved one way or another. 🙂

    Alberta

    • Like 7
  3. Hello from Hull 67, circa 2015!

    We are troubleshooting our black tank monitor that will only read as high as 35%. Starting with the tank empty, the monitor will display 0, all the way up to 35, and then stops no matter how full the tank gets (visually confirmed through the toilet).  We've owned the trailer for about 2 years now and we are not in the habit of pooping in it, although we have a handful of times max. The monitor started acting up last fall. We have done multiple black tank flushes, in case there was some blockage on the walls of the tank. 

    Any ideas to try resolving? Is it easy and simple to replace if the strip on the side of the tank has gone bad? I can't tell if there is one strip or two (maybe only the top one is bad...).

    Thanks for the guidance!

     

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  4. To wrap this thread up from our perspective here is the final information.  We reached out to OTT Service with a service request and Jason responded back that on our year trailer the ground on the 7pin trailer side used the tow vehicle.  Jason explained how to test this by placing the multimeter ground wire on the aluminum frame of the trailer while testing, and we did, and we got an accurate battery reading. So this confirmed what he said was our setup.  So at least we now know why the portable solar panel wasn't recognizing a battery being connected when it was plugged into the trailer 7pin.  Thanks again to everyone who helped us with this!

    • Thanks 1
    • Like 2
  5. Would someone please show me/tell me what is used to connect their stinky slinky to the drain pipe that also allows the rear bumper to close?  I don't know the names of the components we currently have on our trailer (2015 LEII #67) but if the hose is connected to the drain pipe the bumper does not have clearance to close (see attached picture).  I keep reading about people doing this but I haven't figured out how yet.  Thanks much.

    20220717_130700[1].jpg

  6. Thanks everyone for the quick replies.  I continued researching after I posted and found mossemi previous post (thanks for your link again here! ) and spoke with scubaRx. I believe I have a path forward... will see if it's successful. 

    Appreciate all your input! 

    • Like 1
  7. 2015 LE2 Hull 67

    We are trying to figure out where the plastic tubing, shown in pictures, goes when it disappears from view?  In hopes that will troubleshoot the real problem.   Water is dripping at each location where tube goes behind fiberglass wall?

    The exterior drip hole on bottom street side does have water dripping out,  sometimes slow sometimes faster. We pushed a wire up there and only got small black smears out, so didn't feel like it was stopped up from insect or other.

    Took the top cover off  and didn't see anything eye catching (drip pan blockage).

    Appreciate any tips. 

     

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  8. SeaDawg - we used the multi meter to test the trailers 7pin charge wire, using the aluminum frame at the tongue as the ground connection. Our reading was 13+V.  We understood that to mean yes the charge wire is working, as it read the battery voltage.

    Rideandfly - how did you check your Ollie's battery charge rate of 3.5A while connected to your TV?  

     

    • Like 1
  9. John, yes we believe our trailer brakes have/do work correctly (till proven otherwise).  We have set the Gain value on our truck and used the trailer brake controller pinchers to test that the trailer brakes engage and stop the vehicle/trailer when traveling at slow test speed.  I can't address why Oliver initially configured the trailer this way, however, it seems like they changed to a trailer grounding configuration at some point so that is good. I believe we will be looking at getting this issue changed over with a trailer ground point, as we would like to have the option to use a portable solar panel connected at the 7pin.

    • Like 1
  10. I put in a trouble ticket with Oliver to see if they could provide information that might help with our issue, and Jason did.  Here is his response:

    "I would check to see if the 7-pin trailer ground is grounded to the trailer frame. In 2015 the campers were grounded to the tow vehicle via the ball/coupler connection. When the tow vehicle is connected the ground between the two allows everything to work. If the 7-pin is not grounded to the frame then the portable solar may not work as it is not grounded with the trailer."

    We tested and confirmed that if we use the multimeter to read the voltage on the charge port and choose the aluminum frame at the tongue as the ground then we get 13.9V reading.

    I'm guessing that others who use a portable suitcase solar panel hooked to the 7pin, don't have this condition and the ground on their 7pin is connected to the trailer frame.  That's sorta a question if anyone reads down this far. 🙂

    Thanks for all the troubleshooting help!

  11. For reference,  we have a 2015 LE2 and our drawer release is the black "handle" shown in the drawer slide photo below20220618_125841.thumb.jpg.b15dcd0d83606243b828fb4ad9cf1c58.jpg.  Those handles had to be moved either up or down for the release to happen so the drawer could be pulled all the way out.  AND the black handle on each side moved in opposite direction of other side.  So if I pulled the left handle up then I pushed the right handle down. 

     

    • Like 4
  12. Thanks FrankC for the description of your setup, it helped. I've uploaded a photo I took of using the multi meter to test the 7pin readout.  I know I'm going to get the terminology wrong here but hopeful you can still follow my description, especially with the picture. I used the top left 7pin contact as the positive and the bottom right contact as the ground, to take the meter reading.  I believe that is the number 4 and number 1 positions on a 7 pin diagram I saw on another thread (sorry, can't locate immediately).

    The meter reading fluctuated around 460-470 mV (see photo below).  I don't know what a correct reading should be.  We have 4 (210Ah) AGM 6 volt batteries that are connected in parallel (two on the left in parallel and the two on the right in parallel) and then those two sets of parallels are connected in series. Which should be 12 volt battery with 420Ah. So....I said all of this battery description case it's useful for saying what the correct 7pin reading should be on the multi meter.

    Based on my burgeoning knowledge of electrical stuff - I'm thinking the solar panel troubleshooting guide is telling me that the battery voltage is < 3 volts and based on the multi meter reading that is a true statement.  But I don't understand why that would be. Or what it should be.

    I don't know what or how to check the 20V amp breaker. There are three 2 amp breakers. One of them is labeled "Charger". Not sure what that is for.  Is there a meter reading I can do there also?

    Thanks, Alberta

    Forum_multimeterReading.jpg

    • Like 1
  13. 2015 LE2; roof top solar package (340w I think, 2000w inverter); NO solar port on the side

    This isn't an Oliver issue, I don't think. However, I'm wondering if anyone else is doing this setup and can offer any troubleshooting tips.

    I used to connect this Renogy 100w portable solar suitcase panel (Voyager series with 20amp charge controller) to our Casita through the 7pin connector to charge the wet cell battery. We had created a set of connections that got the MC4 connector on the solar panel to a 7pin connector that could plug into the trailer's 7pin. No problems.  I am trying to do the same for our Oliver.  I need to change the battery type setting to AGM for the Oliver setup.  When I set the portable solar panel up in the sun, and connect to the Oliver through the 7pin I get the error code of "b01", which indicates no battery connected.

    I haven't found any online resource solution that has fixed the issue.

    I am trying to do this to allow for battery recharge when parked in shade. 

    I know it has and can be done because I've read through the forum and seen others who have done similar.  I am trying to determine if there is something different about the Oliver that doesn't allow for the same connection setup that we had on our Casita. OR if there is something "broken" on the Renogy panel.

    Any input, and tips, greatly appreciated.

    Alberta

     

  14. 2015 LE2 Hull 67

    This story is evolving as we continue to remember and put together things that happened during and after the Rally.  I'll try to distill the story to the essentials.

    1. During rally went to charge phones on the 120v a/c plugs and they didn't appear to be working.  Tried resetting the GFCI under dinette, no results.  Opened the control panel under dinette and the 15amp circuit breaker was flipped to off. Didn't think anything of it at the time.  We were plugged into a 30amp post at the site.

    2. After getting home, plugging the trailer in, and unloading the Ollie went back out later and the CO2/LP alarm was goiing off.  The LP light was flashing red.  Hit reset, double checked the propane tanks were off (they were), tried to light the stove top to bleed out any potential propane in the lines (none).  Alarm came back on couple more times. Back of the alarm has red date stamped of Oct 11 2019. Not sure if this is a creation date or expiration date.  Guessing creation.

    3.  Went out to trailer little bit later to do/check something and heard this buzzing sound (first time), like something was humming from being on.  Tracked it down to the Power Dynamics Power Control Center PD4045KA under the dinette, and next to the CO2/LP alarm. It was hot in the trailer, those 90 degree days.

    4.  Took the panel cover off of PCC and nothing looked unusual or suspicious.  The only odd behavior was when we flipped the 2nd from the end 15amp breaker to the off position, the fan started to spin a little and then stopped.  That is a consistent movement when we flip that breaker to the off position.

    20220521_194500.thumb.jpg.6d687546c22a266f2ce54ee751216ef6.jpg

    5.  We've read the thread on "Buzzing noise from under dinette" which was very helpful.  Uncertain if we have a bad fan issue or a bad board issue or other. The buzzing stopped at some point and haven't heard it again.  Concerned this is the beginning of an issue we really want to resolve before more travel.

    20220522_140433.thumb.jpg.2dbc0f8ee7ac838969b434c40806155a.jpg

    We welcome input from all as to what the issue might be, things to check, or questions to ask Progressive Dynamics. We have not yet called them.

    Thanks much!

  15. Thanks for all the feedback ya'll!  I did not comprehend that the screen had those little silver extensions that snap to the frame.  Must pay closer attention to details next time, they matter!

    Screen is in place and seems to be functioning.  The screen is missing one of the top silver extensions, but still seemed to attach.

  16. LEII 2015, Hull 67

    I'm flummoxed on how to insert the screen into the rear emergency exit window. The red handles that allow the window to open impede inserting the screen into the track, how & where I think it goes.  We bought the trailer used and the screen was not in the rear window at the time of purchase.

    Can anyone tell me how to do this please?

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    20220511_185155.jpg

    • Thanks 1
  17. We are still chasing down water leaks in the trailer and I am taking a hard look at all the points of entry on the roof.  The back window was one location, I believe the Oliver sign above was the culprit but still in testing phase.  The upper storage in the bathroom was another location, I believe the short antenna above caused this one...still in testing phase.  A new one that popped up after the recaulk was in the floor of the closet by the door.  After two different rainstorms the bottom had about 8 oz of water.  The point of entry into the closet floor, I believe is a broken caulk seam at the foot of the front wall, in the corner, that the closet door is on.  Where the water is coming from to get to that broken seam is yet unknown. I won't caulk the floor seam until I can convince myself I've fixed the root problem.

    • Like 2
  18. 2 hours ago, Boudicca908 said:

    Does this mean every penetration on the roof? 

    No, not every penetration, best I can tell.  I don't see any visible caulk on the surface of the legs that the solar panel is attached to the roof by. I don't know how original caulking during installation of that was handled...I'm certain there would be something at the point of entry that is underneath the plate base, hidden from view.

  19. Well, it's settled then...we are all in agreement with JD.  We had never seen this stuff before.  We have only ever owned fiberglass (Casita prior) and I think with the large step up in price we expected much better.  Thank you all for the comments and education!

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