stlipa
-
Posts
21 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
1
Posts posted by stlipa
-
-
I have an 2016 Elite II. I had the same issue a few years ago. The cause of the problem was a faulty check valve. I eventually replaced it (it’s located in the basement), but was able to use the inlet in the rear of the trailer to fill the tank. You might try that as a temporary work around. You’ll need to re-configure the valves, same as when winterizing.
-
1
-
2
-
-
Stlipa #137 Dometic 13.5
Mid 90’s with sun, cooled fine
will downsize to smaller unit when the Dometic needs replacement
-
2
-
-
We have 57,800 miles on our 2016 (hull 137.)
-
3
-
-
Same experience. On the road, and the charger/converter failed. Have lead acid batteries, + 5 years old. Happened to have a trickle charger with me, and used that to recharge the batteries overnight, every night.. Topgun’s advice is spot on. Replaced the the PD charger/converter, and that solved the problem.
-
1
-
-
A thorough review of the development of the 2022 Tundra with Toyota's chief engineer who managed the process.
-
1
-
3
-
-
I had the same problem a few years ago, and almost replaced the rear quick connect. However, I was eventually able to insert the male connection using two hands, one to push back the collar while forcefully pushing in the male insert with the other. It does seem to go in more easily now. I was told by MB Sturgis, where I bought the propane hose extension, that was probably due to the female connection being slightly out of spec.
-
I had a similar experience, checking the bubble indicators periodically, which never did turn 'white'. When I finally pulled off the caps, the cells were dry. I did not experience a significant voltage drop, or electrical issues, although the minimum voltage at night has been 12.5, lower than it should be. I have read, and found, that the hydrolink system does prevent overfilling, indicated by no longer being able to squeeze the hand pump; so I have periodically topped off the water. Try equalizing the batteries a few times, if the voltage does not come back to where it should be. I've found that does boost the minimum voltage a decimal or two. By the way, Trojan advertises a four year warranty for the hydrolink system. Good luck. Russ Caslin
-
1
-
-
I contacted the Oliver Service Dept. a few months ago, and was sent a collection of fuses that are representative of those used in the Ollie. Spoke with Linda: the cost of the package was ~$18.
-
Hello Rob:
We have a 2015 JGC Overland 4x4 (see earlier posts in this thread) with the 3.0 Diesel that has similar torque and the same towing capacity as the Hemi. It has towed the Elite II an estimated 30,000 miles over varied terrain, including through the Rockies from New Mexico up into Wyoming and back, with no problem. We don't use a WDH, and haven't experienced a need for one.
Russ
-
I had previously applied Capt. Tolley's crack sealer to the gasket around each porch light (to stop streaking), and a second time to the porch light above the window that leaked, before going through the above exercise. Is that what you mean by 're-sealing', or something else?
-
1
-
-
We experienced the same problem: the weep holes were clear, as were the channels, but still had a wet bed on the driver's side after a storm. Yesterday, I pulled the Ollie to our house, and my wife trained a hose on the suspect window. It took a while, but rivulets appeared in several spots running down the side of the interior below the window frame. The frame is caulked, but there were several breaks in the caulk through which the water ran. I cleaned out the existing caulk as well as I could, and re-caulked the entire bottom of the window frame. We had a storm last night; this morning, the bed was dry. It's a small sample size, but I'm hoping this solved the problem. I don't understand enough about the window frame's structure to understand how the water got to where it did from the channels; I had checked the exterior caulking of the window, and it appeared to be intact. We're going to Hohenwald in a couple of weeks for some odds & ends, and I'll ask. Anyway, you may want to check the caulk on the underside of the window frame. Good luck!
-
1
-
1
-
-
Puzzled by the apparent drop in towing capacity, I contacted the local jeep dealer where I bought mine (Glendale Jeep.) The service person I spoke with was unaware of any changes in the chassis or suspension in the 2018 version of the Grand Cherokee, but agreed that the communication materials on that subject were less than clear. I contacted Jeep's headquarters via email with the same question, and received this reply, in part: "When comparing the 2018 Jeep Grand Cherokee with 3.0L V6 Turbo Diesel 4x4, the 2018 Jeep Grand Cherokee is capable of towing 7,200 lbs with no changes from its 2015 counterpart." In addition, the following link was provided which more clearly reflects the towing capacity: www.mopar.com. So, it appears that the towing capacity has not changed.
Russ Caslin
-
1
-
-
We own the 2015 Jeep Grand Cherokee Overland diesel described in the thread you mention. The tow capacity is 7,200 lbs (it's a 4x4.) My experience (Russ') with the mpg has ranged from 14.8 driving into a cold front from Florida to St. Louis to 19.0 from St. Louis to St. George, Utah (going down a gradual plateau after passing over the continental divide in Colorado.) Overall, I believe it averages ~17.0. It makes a great tow vehicle for those for whom a truck is not an attractive alternative. The only con I see is less storage space, which we mitigate with a roof rack, and the front hitch basket Oliver provides as an option.
Russ & Mary Caslin
-
1
-
-
Carole:
I suggest you contact Blue Sky directly. Ryan Gurin has been very helpful. His email: Ryan@BlueSkyEnergyInc.com
Direct #: 760-208-2149.
Russ Caslin
-
Carole:
If you go the The Oliver University, and download the Owner's Manual for the 2016 Oliver, you'll see in its table of contents the section that covers the Blue Sky IPN Pro-Remote. Read the section on the"top menu", which lead you through the data available at that level. In particular, it will show you "battery capacity" and "number of days since 100% charged". That will tell you on a day to day basis whether the solar panels are charging the batteries. If you see that your battery capacity is declining from one day to the next, then something is amiss. Your battery voltage will also drop over time if that's the case. Best of luck. Let us know if that works, or not.
Russ Caslin
-
Matt: Byerly RV in St.Louis, MO has worked on our Elite II twice, once to correct a problem with the solar panels (warranty work), and the second time to install the Micro-Aire Easy Start module for the A/C. Very satisfied with their work. It's a large facility located off I-44 about 25 miles southwest of St. Louis.
-
1
-
-
We have not, although we have trips planned in the fall to Great Smoky Mountain National Park, and to the Canadian Rockies next summer. The closest we've come to mountains are the Ozarks in Missouri, and along Highway 40 through portions of Tennessee. No problem with either of those, although I don't know whether the higher altitude in the Rockies would affect performance, or not. There are others on this forum who pull with diesel SUV's who may be better able to comment.
Russ & Mary Caslin
-
We tow our Elite II with a 2015 Jeep Grand Cherokee (Overland model.). It has the diesel with 240 hp and 420 lb.-ft. of torque. We've put ~ 4,700 miles on the Ollie since picking it up on 5/31/16, and have averaged ~18 mpg towing over a variety of roads, including one trip to Sanibel Island from St. Louis, and back. We don't use a WDH. In a nutshell, the JPG tows the Ollie wonderfully. An added benefit is that the it carries Jeep's "Trail Rated" badge, and the off road capability that comes with it. Have never had an issue with storage (no pets), although we have considered a car top carrier as someone mentioned earlier in this thread. Happy travels!
Russ & Mary Caslin
-
George:
Your description of the solar not working when the lid on the controller box is on, but working when the lid is off is what I experienced (see my earlier reply to your post.) I've sent you a PM. Feel free to call.
Russ
-
We picked up our Oliver May 31 (Hull # 137), and had a similar experience, although it took me awhile to realize there was a problem (first time owning a travel trailer.) We, too, always were hooked up to shore power, but noticed that the voltage would decline while the trailer was in storage parked in the full sun. After several discussions with Tommie (and my own numerous contacts with Blue Sky), Tommie recommended that a local RV repair shop take a look. Diagnosis: the solar panels were never connected! The repair shop fixed that problem, and the solar panels charged -- for a short period of time, but then stopped. Opening up the charge controller, I eventually realized that the solar panels would charge when the lid to the controller was left open and upside down, but not charge when the lid was on. I then stumbled across a video a former owner (Wincrasher) made of his Ollie, and realized that the charge controller box in my Ollie was installed the reverse of his. This in turn had caused the wiring from the battery and solar panels to be severely bent over to connect to the controller terminals, and resulted in the terminals disconnecting from the controller circuit board when the lid was on the controller box. We ended up taking the Ollie back to factory for some modifications, and a new charge controller was installed while we were there. The final irony: the solar panels still were not charging! Anyway, this turned out to be an easy fix. The incoming cables from the solar panels and batteries had been connected in reverse (solar to the battery terminal and batter to the solar panel) when the new controller was installed. Once I fixed that, the charge controller has since worked great.
I suggest you use a multimeter to check the voltage from the solar panels. If there is none, make sure the panels are connected. If there is, then the culprit may be the charge controller. Good luck!
Russ & Mary Caslin
-
3
-
Cracked Door Panel
in Mechanical & Technical Tips
Posted
We first experienced cracks in the fiberglass interior of the door about four years ago. Initially, there were only a few. Over time, the cracks spread spider-web like over most of the door, widening as they spread. When the cracks first appeared, I had contacted the Oliver Service Dept. for guidance. Service did not know what would cause the cracks. The only option was to replace the door (Mike Sharpe also checked with a tech who had tried to replace the cracked fiberglass in another door, but had determined that was not feasible.). I also contacted Lippert, the door's manufacturer, for its take on the possible cause, but Lippert had nothing to offer on what might have caused it. We lived with the spreading and widening cracks for four years, but bit the bullet earlier this year and replaced the door while in Hohenwald for other work on the Ollie. The new door is still manufactured by Lippert, and still features the same pebbled fiberglass on its interior. A major difference, however, is that the door closes much more easily. Now, a nudge will close it whereas the old door had to be firmly closed (a light slam?.). I have to wonder if that continuous hard closing caused the cracking? The other feature that I don't remember from the first door is the new door appears to have first installed within a frame, which would have then been attached to the Ollie's frame. I never noticed if the first door was built into its own frame, or not.