jd1923
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Posts posted by jd1923
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My take… 😎
If you own one or more 100 Ah Battleborn batteries you purchased years ago, let it go and it‘s time to scrap them!
For $670 (less than what you spent on one (1) 100 Ah Battleborn you can purchase the new 320 Ah LiiTime mini! BTW, so cool!
Or for $1200 (I just purchased a 3rd one at 15% OFF for their BF promo) you can buy the Epoch Essentials 300 Ah battery!
We’ll be running 900 Ah for 2026 and beyond, so cool! 😎
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Who's going and when?
The Q Big Tent runs Jan 17-25. The Fiberglass RV Gathering will run from February 6-9.
I have time off work second half of Jan through first week of Feb and we'd like to visit for a few days when other Oliver Owners are there. Love to meet old friends and new!
We weren't so much for Dome Rock (pic1) last year except for meeting Oliver owners! It's a bit crowded with the constant whine of nearby I-10 (and too many little Casitas)! Later we stayed several miles up Plomosa Rd NE of town. It was quiet up on the ridge with great views (pics 2-3).
Hope to meet y'all there! 😎
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3 hours ago, Mike and Carol said:
John, add Maine to your travel list! We had a great visit there and plan on returning….. Mike
If only there was a Transporter to get there quickly! Only 2800 miles one-way Prescott AZ to New Harbor ME! One day we should head that way...
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40 minutes ago, CRM said:
Why didn't I let @jd1923 try setting his up first?
Going to finish my Turbro install soon. I have next week off.
I hadn't planned on adding the Cielo thermostat, unless after a season of use it is deemed necessary in our use case. Humidity is rarely an issue in our travels.
Also, @BigTexas nicely wrote-up a concern that was in the back of my mind...
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13 hours ago, Geronimo John said:
If you decide you don't need that spare part KISEA for your Victron system, I'll gladly purchase it from you next summer! Would be a really good spare part for my "Older Design" system.
John, mine had an intermittent issue and the reseller refunded upon return.
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Nice to meet you Jamie and Sandi! (virtually of course) It would be great to visit Maine in our Oliver! Your home state is the only state in the 48 CONUS states I have not yet traveled!
@Jamie Peghiny I'm with you on everything you wrote, except we are Amazon junkies for speed of delivery and ease of returns. However, I've been on eBay since August 2002, long before Amazon was started! Checkout jdokos1 on ebay where my feedback hit a perfect #1000 and 100%. I started back in 2002 selling old car parts from classic cars I parted.
Recently on eBay I purchased Norcold exterior fridge vents a new pair at $35 each, about 1/2 the cost from the regular parts dealers. Last summer, I purchased a new Barker VIP3000 jack for the front of the Oliver. It was a one-off NIB item. Seller accepted Offer at $200 which was an amazing deal. eBay is now easier on returns where they supply a return ship label, often at no cost to the buyer (likely to better compete with Amazon).
However, don't buy Timken bearings on eBay or Amazon. They will be knock-offs. I purchased a complete Toyota rebuild kit to replace the timing belt on a T100 truck. When it came there were 10+ parts all in Toyota package. When I looked at the casting of the water pump and the issues with other parts I realized these parts were faked! Wow, did they look real at first. eBay helped with an immediate refund and soon that seller was banned.
I would buy lug nuts from this highly rated Seller if they reply with a good answer. I always "Contact Seller" first and only buy from Sellers that reply promptly. eBay and Amazon both have items you cannot easily find anywhere else. I have restored a half dozen classic cars and 3 motorcycles purchasing NOS parts on eBay!
Welcome to The Forum and best wishes to you traveling in your new Oliver. Come see us in the SW this winter or next. There are always a lot of us at Quartzsite AZ (Jan-Feb). There should be a Forum post started on that soon! We'll coast down the mountain to meet other Oliver Owners this winter in the great valley of the SW, the warmest part of the USA! 😎
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My first rule with technology is keep things simple and go with defaults in configuration! That being said, Ron and some others, I believe it was @Treasure Coast Vault who first installed the Pioneer Inverter A/C, and both have positive results with this thermostat/power on/off control product.
I'm working on a Turbro Inverter A/C install. My plan again is to go with installing this product by defaults without additional complication. I have already installed a simple Honeywell heat-only thermostat, it works well. I do not believe I would need this product since humidity is not generally a concern in the Southwest.
Love the input though! Thank you @Ronbrink!
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1 hour ago, katanapilot said:
Still confused. If the shore power receptacle (30 amps) is wired to the transfer switch (either a 15 or 20 amp rated switch) in the earlier trailers - how was that acceptable? One doesn't switch a 30 amp power source with a 15 or 20 amp switch. That's m y confusion.
Our trailer has a 30 amp ATS fed by the two shore power receptacles. That makes sense.
Yes, your conclusion makes sense!
Perhaps one more try will work... 😎A 15 or 20A ATS can be used with an inverter when the inverter does not have a built-in ATS. It is used to switch between shore power and inverted power for a 15 or 20A circuit. Our Victron has a built-in ATS but the 2KW Xantrex inverter OTT originally installed did not (see pic, ATS in middle). An external 15A ATS was added to switch all circuits except A/C to use shore power when present or inverted power when not. Some Oliver owners added the 20 KISEA ATS to add switching for the A/C circuit.
The picture below shows the KISEA I installed for literally a few days before I decided on the Victron upgrade. Both ATS in the picture would switch between shore or inverted power. The KISEA for the A/C circuit and the OTT installed Xantrex ATS to switch the other circuits (microwave, outlets, etc.). These are NOT the main 30A ATS which is as follows:
The main ATS installed in most RVs is the PD5100 a 30A ATS. These must be/always are 30A, used mainly to switch between shore power and generator. On the Oliver it switches between the side and front 120VAC 30A Furrion shore power inlets.
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If they are truly Gorilla brand or McGard (another good brand I've used) then they're good. What @Geronimo John is referring to is that there are a lot of China made knock-offs on eBay (Amazon too for that matter). Instead buy from Summit Racing or eTrailer or another reliable and authorized reseller.
This eBay seller has Feedback number at 9850 and 99.8% rating, likely their parts are good, but who knows.
@Jamie Peghiny I believe the lug nuts you found is the correct size and shape but cannot be certain w/o a forum signature with your hull#, etc.
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6 hours ago, Snackchaser said:
Xantrex inverters already have a built in converter and charger.
Not on the older hulls! Chris owns #110 and ours is #113. OTT installed a 2KW Xantrex inverter in our Oliver (inverter only, no charger). The PD charger installed in the power panel was the only charger (hence Chris’ recent upgrade to the PD charger with the LiFePO4 switch)!
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4 hours ago, John and Debbie said:
I don't think that I damaged it by only waiting 18 hours.
For certain, it’s nothing you did! 9 times out of 10, Amazon used is like new with damaged packaging.
1 of 10 times you get an item used and damaged by the previous Amazon customer! Just exchange it. I’ve purchased well over 50 Amazon used items through the years and 90% of the time they’re a great bargain. Like my Engage pickleball paddle, $220 new, $160 Like New from the ‘Engage’ store on Amazon. It came new but not in retail packaging, OMG, I can’t have that!
I ordered this same humidifier Amazon used Like New at $79 (vs $136, for a $57 or 42% off savings!) and it arrived today. It looks perfect, except a prior owner wrote something in pencil on the instruction booklet. I’ll let you know when I get a chance to test it.
To test it, I’ll have to hang a couple wet towels in the Oliver to create some humidity! RH today in Prescott was 20%! 😎
We will use this tool rarely but should keep it on the closet floor for when traveling east!
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2 hours ago, Geronimo John said:
Does anyone have an idea…
The KISEA ATS is used when you have a 2KW inverter that has NO internal ATS (as all modern, capable 3KW inverters have).
This variety of ATS allows you to switch between main inverter circuits and add an A/C circuit. Search for keyword ‘KISEA’ and the story we be told, in several forum posts.
The ATS required to decipher two (2) shore power inputs, is the PD5100, or variation. It’s ALWAYS the PD5100 a 30A ATS! 😎
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4 hours ago, taylor.coyote said:
the box is toasted...
So, you can replace it or simply bypass the ATS. For us, we only use the Shore Power connection streetside. Our PD5100 ATS was about to falter last year and ahead of a major trip, and instead of replacing it, the decision I made was to bypass the ATS!
Do this if you are not a generator guy (which is truly against my religion, given the current art of LiFePO4 and inverter technology). I do not need the front Shore Power connection and hence, I do not need an ATS! Less stuff, less cr@p to go wrong! 😎
Note top-right in the picture where you see the interior side of the main shore inlet. Normally, this cable goes to the ATS (large box on the left). The ATS will have two (2) incoming shore power connections and one out to the power panel. KI most RVs the ATs switches as needed between Shore Power and an onboard generator.
I rewired ours to bypass the ATS, now wired directly to the EMS (wire it directly to the 120VAC power panel if your older hull does not have an EMS). I left the other cables in place to revert if ever necessary, but never again will I have to worry about the ATS as wired (or spend another $140 to replace it). I have replaced the PD5100 ATS in every (3 of 3) RVs we have owned! It is the nature of the beast! 🤣
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On 12/8/2025 at 9:51 AM, Boudicca908 said:
Are you accessing off 4 Peaks Rd? or from the east via the El Oso Road? I hope to make it into Arizona next year.
We entered from the east, Hwy AZ-87 to Cline Cabin Rd to FS 124 then 401. Dirt as soon as you leave AZ-87 and it's a long way to Four Peaks. We drove about 6 miles to where we camped. This route and the one via El Oso Rd both go all the way to the wilderness area. It would take a good 2 hours on dirt to go the whole way! "The Rolls OHV Area" is on this route which was fine for an overnight, but even though we did dirt riding for 20 years, I do NOT like to camp with engine noises and the dirt in the air the OHV creates! Perhaps El OSO is better? It's a shorter run off AZ Hwy-188.
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On 12/3/2025 at 8:32 PM, Gene G. said:
Just got 2 230 amp hr Litime with blue tooth. Charged 1 to 100%. Will do other tommorrow
Let us know if you have questions getting ready to install! Good upgrade for you! 😂
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2 hours ago, taylor.coyote said:
Grand Canyon south rim
If you happen to head south, you have an invitation to visit and we can fix this! 😎
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Thank you so much @Roger and @rideandfly!
I just bought one Amazon used “Like New” for $79! (they have more available at this price.)
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4 hours ago, Roger said:
It is a compressor dehumidifier and did an excellent job.
Roger, were you able to confirm this after purchase. The Amazon listing does not state "compressor" anywhere on the page. Thank you, JD
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Just now, taylor.coyote said:
Jd1923,
don't understand your note. please explain
I meant ATS, not EMS. You wrote "tapping on the transfer relay make the power go on and off."
The ATS can short out and fail often! I have replaced these on 2 RVs in the last 6 years.
You can open the box and tighten all lugs which may work. Or you can bypass it. Ours burnt out recently. I could have replaced it but i bypassed it connecting only the streetside 30A outlet, since we do not run a generator and never use the front 30A port.
I am assuming you have two (2) shore power inlets (side hull just front of the battery bay and up front behind the basket in front of the LP tanks), otherwise you do not have a shore power ATS.
Ours looks like this and your hull is of same generation. The ATS has two (2) incoming 10/3 cables and one outgoing connected to the 120VAC power panel. You can bypass the ATS using wire nuts to connect the hot/black, neutral/white and ground/green wires together.
If this is not applicable or does not work...
Do you have an inverter? Make sure it is powered on and test again.Is the main 30A breaker in the power panel and/or other breakers tripped?
I'll stay online for awhile tonight if you need more help. Best wishes, JD
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12 hours ago, taylor.coyote said:
Already checked the master power switch under the bed and all the fuses and breakers under in the kitchen.
certain breakers are not the issue. tapping on the transfer relay make the power go on and off.
You need to service or replace or when in emergency circumstances bypass your ATS!
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Boondocking on FR 401, east of AZ-87 (Beeline Hwy Mesa to Payson), with amazing views of the Four Peaks Wilderness due east!
It only took me a week to get ‘er dirty after polishing and ceramic coating, serious washboards getting here! Dirt not sticking like before though.
Too much an OHV location, but as the sun sets early they’re already gone for the day! Quiet and truly majestic and should be a great night for star-gazing!
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23 hours ago, taylor.coyote said:
Or should we consider adding DC to DC charging from the truck for more charging capacity ?
Yes, YES certainly! (Now you'll get at least 3x feedback on this question!)
It's the lowest cost addition (~$600 in parts) you can do to create Ah, increase SOC while towing! We boondock often, lots of short stays, and when you're going from dry camp to dry you can always count on gaining considerable power. Our 320W rooftop solar is about breakeven running our fridge on DC (10 Ah on average in the sunny SW). With our Victron Orion XS 50A charger (get this model) we get +40 Ah every hour towing! Here is info on my installation and performance results:
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On 12/4/2025 at 9:36 PM, taylor.coyote said:
thanks for sharing. we sleep with the temp at 60F with no issues. The issue is if it's 40F outside, a cold trailer takes at least an hour to get to 65 and I don't think it can get to 70F. The vent under the bed flows at 119 degrees, the kitchen at 99 degrees and the bath 72. We camped two nights ago at 20F. No problem to maintain the desired 60F while we sept but it topped out at 68F when we turned it up in the moring. I have read that 120 -140F is the temperature expected from an RV propane heater. Our heater is adequate but at the bottom of what seems to be expected from an RV heater.
I would like to hear about other's heater experience / performance in cold weather.
These are bad numbers, so I would conclude your furnace needs some sort of maintenance. An easy task is to remove the exterior panel and LP vent. Make sure all is clean and there are no flow obstructions. Fire it up for a minute with vent off and see if you can observe the burner in action for a clean blue flame. Check for any documented manufacturer's troubleshooting steps.
I say these are bad numbers in comparison to our Atwood furnace. We left camp for a long dinner with friends last night. Since we left our dog in the cabin alone, for safety reasons, I turned off the HWH and furnace and the LP at the tanks.
When we returned it was 57F in the cabin (outside was 49F and windy). I turned the thermostat up to 66F and although I did not time it, it seemed like 20 to 30 minutes max and the cabin was up to 65F. I do not have a proper instrument to measure air temp, but I placed a meat thermometer in the main duct. It started at 119F and stepped up to 172F! After I heard the gas shut off, the temp dropped back down at a similar rate.
I also have an infrared temp gun which measures surface temps. The inside of the duct measured in the 140s. Our furnace works better than new with ducting changes I've made, and given the numbers, yours seems to be in need service!
Hope this helps and please let us know what you find out! JD
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(Post deleted after noticing I was answering an old post.)
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Propane/CO alarm quick-disconnect?
in Mechanical & Technical Tips
Posted · Edited by jd1923
Yours is wired under the bed? Ours is mounted to and wired under the rear dinette seat already. On the right side of the picture below you can faintly see the wiring and a large square cutout. Too bad OTT mounted a recessed model detector requiring this awful 3x3" square hole in the fiberglass! Prior owner replaced it with a surface mount model, same as @Rivernerd has pictured above. Ours is dated 2026 so very soon we have to replace ours.
It's simple to rewire most anything from under the beds to under the dinette given that the combined 12VDC and 120VAC power panel is under the dinette. I moved almost everything out from under the beds as you can read in this post.