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https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/6729-how-to-check-your-sewer-grey-vent-under-the-galley-counter-top/ https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/6721-how-to-secure-the-loose-grey-drain-vent-plumbing-under-the-galley/ I 100% agree about using a tank treatment, if you never add anything it can get pretty gross in the grey tank. John Davies Spokane WA

Oliver offers a yearly maintenance package for our customers. The maintenance items included in this package are things that need to be performed for typical camper use at least once per year. This does not mean that this is the only time of the year that you will need or have to perform some of the these maintenance items. Some customers may be able to go longer than one year for some of the items as maintenance is based on usage & environment. Many of the items have been added to our yearly maintenance list because so many people do not perform them and we felt it was best to perform it once per year rather than never. A/C Filter Cleaning: We perform this in the yearly maintenance but in dry environments it should be done weekly. A/C Condenser Coil: Recommended with Dometic A/C at least once per year however depending on the environment of use it could need to be cleaned as often as 2-4 times per year. Birds can also make nests inside when left unused for a period which would also require cleaning. Exterior Caulking: We recommend doing this at least once per year. Depending on the use and environment it may need to be done sooner or if you keep the camper stored half of the year inside then you may be able to go two years. If you do not caulk every year, we recommend that you at least inspect the caulk. Furnace Cleaning: Basic cleaning should be done once per year however insects can invade and build nests that would require cleaning as needed. Plumbing Decalcification: We recommend at least once per year but depending on hard water use & gallons used you may find that it is necessary to perform this 3-6 times per year. Some areas are known for extremely hard water content and you may have to decalcify once per month or use a water softener. Water Filtration systems do not soften water. Water Heater Decalcification: We recommend at least once per year but again depending on use you may have to perform this 2-4 times per year. The Truma water heater will flash when decalcification is necessary however once the unit needs to be decalcified you must stop use and perform the steps. The Suburban water heater does not provide a warning and you will need to periodically drain & inspect. Blade Valve Lubrication: We would recommend lubricating valves about every 2-3 months to ensure best results. Repack Bearings: Dexter recommends every 12 months or 12,000 Miles, whichever comes first. If you drive more than 12,000 miles per year we would highly recommend having the bearings repacked by the 12,000 mile point. Failure to repack the bearings in time can result in failure & breakdown. Grease EZ Flex: This should be done every 3 months or 3,000 miles whichever comes first. 7-Pin: The 7-Pin should be inspected every time you connect it. Water intrusion can cause corrosion which will lead to issues. A freshly cleaned 7-Pin that has water intrusion can corrode as quickly as just a few days. Coupler: Lubricating the coupler should be done as often as needed. Lubrication on an exposed part does not last. The coupler does not have to be greased but a good lubricant should be used to ensure the spring & lever operation works smoothly. Some rust buildup is normal on a steel coupler. Bulldog recommends greasing the ball pocket however Andersen does not recommend greasing for the ball. Grease will not prevent wear but it will help with rust. Tire Pressure: This should be checked every time you pull the camper. Air, over time, can escape thru the sidewall of the tires. Improper tire pressure can cause the tires to wear sooner. Window Tracks: Depending on where you camp you may need to clean the window tracks out as often as every week. Tree debris & sap can start to buildup in the tracks on day one. Once the white window glazing is left uncleaned for a period of time it will remain stained with mildew. The design of the window track makes it near impossible to completely clean the entire track as part of it is hidden under the stationary window. Air helps to free any debris on that side of the track & running water through it with the glazing removed. You can take a rag and clean as much of the track as you can but don't fret if some staining is left. The primary objective is to remove as much debris as possible that will block the weep holes. If the weep holes get blocked then water will backup and overflow to the interior. Sanitize Fresh Water System: If you leave the camper sitting for a period of time it is a good idea to sanitize before hand. This will keep algae from growing in your tank when water is left sitting for too long. You should also sanitize before using the camper after it has set for a long period of time (2-3 months). Deodorize/Clean Black & Grey Tanks: This should be done with every fill (Complete tank fill, not a single use). When setting up camp & using the tanks it is best practice to add treatment to the tanks. Black tank treatment helps breakdown waste during use but once the tank is flushed the treatment is gone. The black tank should be allowed to fill up with waste during use and a single waste dump once the tank is near full. This allows time for the waste to breakdown and a better waste dump. *Never connect to a dump station with your black tank valve open as to dump while in use. This will cause the water to flow quicker than the solids leaving the solids behind in the tank. As is with all maintenance, the better you maintain your camper the better performance you will receive. Failure to properly maintain will result in more issues. All the listed items above are recommended maintenance for the best camping experience. The yearly maintenance package is to complete required and recommended maintenances at least once per year but should not be considered the only time you maintain your camper. There are other items that should be done regularly that we do not perform in the yearly maintenance. Some of these items are: Fan Cleaning: Dust & grease from cooking inside the camper can accumulate on the fans. You should clean the fans periodically as needed. Failure to clean the fans can cause unwanted noise & performance issues. Wash & Wax: This is NOT performed during our yearly maintenance package but we do recommend that you wash your camper frequently & wax it at least once per year. Again, waxing once per year is the minimum and it is better to wax twice per year. If you really want to keep the exterior looking its best than it is recommended to wash frequently & use a good spray on wax such as Duragloss Aquawax every time you wash. The spray on wax does not however take place of the old fashioned wax that should be done once or twice per year unless you are washing & spray waxing the camper every week. Black Tank Flush: There is a water inlet dedicated just for flushing the black tank. This is something that is best done every time you drain the tank. Water Pump Filter Check: Inspect the water pump filter before or after every camping trip. The filter's purpose is to catch unwanted debris that may be in the tank from entering the fresh water pipes.

A few years ago, I conducted a similar experiment (and posted it on the forum), comparing black and gray water tank treatments using dog poop. In that experiment, TankTechsRx came out the winner over the other product (I’m sorry, I no longer remember that other product’s name), as it did a much better job of reducing the odor. I recently encountered another treatment with very good reviews, so I bought a bottle of it—Unique RV Digest-It—to compare with my TankTechsRx. The experiment was this: I mixed a capful of each product with water to nearly fill a small glass, and then I placed five pieces of small dog food kibble in each glass and let them sit. The photo showing the glass with the brown colored liquid is the one with TankTechsRx product, which is naturally brown. Result: Within 12 hours or so, the Unique RV Digest-It had reduced the kibble to a sludge at the bottom of the glass, whereas the glass with the TankTechsRx still held solid chunks of kibble. The odor was also different, with the TankTechsRx glass smelling a bit funky, while the Unique RV Digest-It glass had a faint, but rather pleasant, almost floral, smell to it. I will be using Unique RV Digest-It from now on in my gray water tank. We have a composting toilet, so we don’t use a black water tank. However, we have been spraying a mixture of water and TankTechsRx in our composting toilet, which has seemed to help with the composting process and odor control. I will now be trying the Unique RV Digest-It in the same way, expecting good results. I would surmise from my experiment that Unique RV Digest-It would work well in a black water tank and accomplishing what it advertises: 1. BREAKS DOWN SOLID WASTE INSIDE TANKS. Liquifies human waste and all brands of toilet paper. Digests residual sludge from years of build-up. Works in black and gray tanks. 2. ELIMINATES TOILET & TANK ODORS without masking. Extra strength activated cleaners eliminate odors at their source without covering them with overpowering perfumes. 3. HELPS PREVENT SENSOR MALFUNCTION. Cleans and removes solid waste and paper before it can cling to sensor probes, preventing misreads. No, I have no association with either company. Yes, I suggest others give Digest-It a try.

We recently purchased a 2017 Oliver that, from our understanding, had been in storage for the past 3-4 years and had not been used. The trailer has a very noticeable smell we have been working to remove. It seems to be stronger with the AC running. We have cleaned all interior surfaces, removed all porous materials (fabrics), and my husband has cleaned both the black and grey tanks and added Auqamax dry holding tank treatment to both tanks. Of note, when we first cleaned the black tank, it had some gross surprises that may have been fermenting for years 🤢 Any ideas on what I can clean next? Could the smells be coming from between the two fiberglass shells? When I was cleaning the interior, I did not notice any areas that looked like there was water intrusion.

Share and Enjoy !Shares Are you looking to explore the great outdoors with your RV? Boondocking, or “dry camping” as it’s sometimes known, is an incredible way to get away from modern amenities and enjoy nature. Whether you’re new to boondocking or you’ve been at it for years, it’s important to make sure you have all the essential items needed for a safe and enjoyable experience. In this blog post, we’ll go over what those must-have items are and why they’re important for your boondocking journey. Important Tools and Supplies When you’re hitting the road, there are certain tools and supplies to bring along to ensure a smooth ride. It’s always a good idea to be prepared for any situation you might encounter when away from civilization. Here’s a list of items that are essential to any boondocking adventure: - Generator – A generator is a great way to power your RV and appliances when boondocking. Make sure it’s in good working condition before you leave as there won’t be any outlets at your destination. If you're worried, having a backup backup generator might be a good idea – just to be safe! - Extra Water – It’s important to have extra water stored in case there isn’t a source nearby. Make sure to bring enough for drinking, cooking, and cleaning. It's also a good idea to bring along a portable water filter, just in case. As long as there are water sources around you, you'll never run out. - Sewer Hose and Tank Treatment – A sewer hose and tank treatment will help keep your RV clean and free from odors. These should be stocked in your trailer regardless of where you're going, but before you set out on your adventure, just double check that they're in there. - Flashlight or Lanterns – These are essential for providing light in the dark. Bring along some extra batteries for any items that require them. Headlamps are also a good idea if you'll be doing anything in the dark, such as working on your trailer, cooking, or lighting a fire. - Extra Parts and Tools – It’s always a good idea to bring along some basic tools and spare parts just in case something breaks or malfunctions. This includes duct tape, a wrench set, hammer, screwdriver, and other small items. - Maps – You’ll want to be prepared with maps of the area you plan on traveling through. Knowing your route ahead of time will help you find the best boondocking spots and avoid any potential trouble. Safety Must-Haves Safety should be the number one priority when boondocking. There are certain must-have items to keep you, your family and your RV safe in case of an emergency. Here’s a list of items that should always come along on a boondocking adventure: - Fire Extinguisher – It’s a good idea to have a fire extinguisher on hand in case of an emergency. Place it within easy reach and make sure everyone knows where it is. If your dinner doesn't go according to plan or your bonfire starts to get a little out of hand, you'll be so glad you packed the fire extinguisher. - First Aid Kit – Make sure your first aid kit is fully stocked with all the necessary items, such as prescriptions, bandages, antiseptic cream, and pain relievers. Hopefully nothing will happen, but you never know – and it's best to be safe. Additionally, because you're boondocking, you might not have access to the internet. Be sure to have a map and directions to the nearest clinic or hospital in case of a medical emergency. - Emergency Kit – This should include items such as a flashlight, whistle, flares, and a map of the area you’re boondocking in. This will help if you get lost or need to signal for help. - Sunscreen and Bug Spray – Don’t forget the sunscreen! Depending on when and where you’re boondocking, the sun can be very strong. Make sure to bring along a high-SPF sunscreen to protect your skin. Bug spray is also a must – especially in areas that are prone to mosquitos. - Bear Spray – If you're going camping in bear country, it's important to have bear spray on hand. If a bear is spotted, make sure everyone stays back and use the spray if necessary. By packing these important items along with your camping and cooking supplies, you’ll be ready for any unexpected adventure when boondocking. Just make sure to always be prepared and pay attention to your surroundings before venturing out into the wilderness. Boondocking can be an amazing experience, but if you don’t take the necessary safety precautions, you could run into a lot of issues. Fun Items That Will Enhance Your Boondocking Experience Boondocking is all about exploring nature and having fun. Here are some items that can enhance the experience and make it even more enjoyable: - Camp Chairs – Don’t forget to bring comfortable chairs for sitting around the campfire or just relaxing in. You could bring a hammock as well if there are a lot of trees where you're camping. - Portable Grill – Portable grills are great for cooking meals outdoors. This can make the whole camping experience much more enjoyable since you'll have delicious, freshly cooked food. - Portable Battery Charger – If you're planning on using devices such as your phone or laptop, make sure to bring a portable battery charger with you. That way, you won't be stuck without power in the middle of nowhere! - Games and Toys – Bring along some fun games and toys to keep everyone entertained during your adventure. This can be anything from playing cards to frisbees and footballs to fishing rods and nets. If you want to make things really exciting, you can bring big "toys" such as dirt bikes, four-wheelers, side-by-sides, and bikes. - Musical Instruments – If you’re a musician, don’t forget to bring along your instrument! Strumming a guitar or banjo around the campfire can add an extra special touch to any boondocking trip. By taking the time to plan ahead and prepare for your boondocking adventure, you can make sure that it’s a safe and enjoyable experience. Make sure to bring these items along on your journey to maximize the fun! Share and Enjoy !Shares The post Boondocking: Essential Items for a Memorable Adventure appeared first on Oliver Travel Trailers. Read the Full Article

Btw, your toilet probably came with a little bottle of tank treatment. Put most of it down the toilet, but put a quarter down the bathroom sink. The odors will go away, even for those of us with hypersensitive noses, if the shower floor is now clean. Um, when you treat the toilet, open the valve/hole by depressing the pedal at the bottom of the toilet. It will close when you let off the pedal. Ps. Put an inch or so of water in the bowl from a jug, if you still haven't connected to water. There is a rubber seal around the valve at the bottom of the bowl that likes to stick, if it's left without water or rv antifreeze in it. After every dump, you'll need to add a little toilet tank treatment to keep everything happy. An ounce ot so of the orange liquid, or one pod if the pod packets is quite enough. The inexpensive orange liquid at Walmart is fine.

Yes, I used the search button, but could never get to what I wanted. Just wondering what is the choice of black tank treatment chemicals used by most of you out there. I have been using the Camco in the orange packets and so far it does work very well, but I'm tired of the packets breaking all the time and having to mix them up before putting in the tank, I know you don't have to do that, but I want it dissolved when it goes in. I want to probably go to a liquid type. Just dump it in and be done with it. Just a good general idea from you out there what works for you, I don't want any home remedies, so please don't tell me about them, I just want to pick up what I need at Walmart. trainman

https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/search/?q="Tank treatment"&updated_after=any&sortby=relevancy&search_and_or=or We used to use the dropin packets, oxy something. I switched to the inexpensive, widely available Camco orange liquid stuff several years ago. Before the trailer goes into Florida winter hibernation, I use a concoction of arm and hammer clear laundry soap and calgon liquid softener, plus a several gallons of water.. If my grocery store were out of Calgon (it's hard to find), I have read that you can use Borax powder instead, though I would add the powder to water in a jar and shake it up first, if I did that . I let the concoction sit awhile, then use the tank rinse. After emptying, add valve lube. We don't have to winterize here.

Pink stuff is rv antifreeze. Orange and blue are the typical colors for rv tank treatment.

That vent pipe you see behind the drawer has an air admittance valve on the top. It allows air to go in to vent the system, but doesn't let air out, for obvious reasons! Kind of like a back flow preventer in a water line. These valves have been known to fail now and again so that could be a reason. If Oliver installed it right, it should screw off for easy replacement, haven't checked mine lately. For what it's worth, I also always add Happy Camper black tank treatment to the gray tank as well, especially in the summer, it works great for both tanks. Follow the pipe down to the tank, check all the connections, the problem could also be as Mike described above. Good luck! Dave

I am limiting what we take to whatever will fit in the back seat of the pickup: four totes of camping "essentials", two small totes of supplies to use on the journey to Hohenwald, bedding, and warm weather clothing. Trailer related gear (chocks, leveling blocks, tools, tire chains, anti-freeze, tank treatment, etc.) will stow in the pickup bed toolbox. In addition we are taking a cooler of food for meals on the road. Hey, if you've got the room, why not use it? We have a long drive home in December, so could be faced with weather related delays. We plan take our time and to be on the road at least 10 days. I'm sure we'll be making a few purchases after delivery.

So are any of you folks with cabin smells using a grey tank treatment? That won’t make burping go away, but at least the burps smell vaguely scented and vaguely lemony fresh.... sort of. John Davies Spokane WA

I thought some more about Spike's experiment. That will keep air out and thus only allow anaerobic bacteria to grow. Since air can get in to the composting toilet, a better test might be to leave the bottles uncapped and allow growth of aerobic bacteria. I have the regular toilet, not the composting version, so we use both grey and black tanks. We use a black tank treatment after every dump, but we have not been treating the grey tank. On our last trip my brother-in-law mentioned grey tank treatments, and your experiment prompted me to research this. The Camco product has good reviews. Does anyone on the forum have experience with grey tank treatments? I do not know a lot about plumbing, and maybe someone more knowledgable can chime in. I think the black and grey tanks are connected to a stack vent that goes out the roof, which would allow air into the tanks, even during storage. Is that correct?

I'm still here! ScubaRx saved me the trouble of digging around for the old post on this subject. The system works great and is available in AC or DC powered versions, as is the Wayne pump. As for the chlorine dioxide, some folks get nervous because of the word "chlorine" in its name. A little research on the 'net will give you a good background on its use/safety. If you're drinking tap water at home, the odds are that it was purified using chlorine dioxide. Also, it works great as a waste tank treatment, so now one bottle of chlorine dioxide serves both purposes for me since I no longer have to worry about stopping at Walmart for tank treatment. 1 ounce treats 30 gallons, so it saves space, too.

Is your Tow vehicle equipped with a brake control unit for your trailer? Also, I prefer to scotch my wheels front and back so I suggest an extra set of wheel chocks. You will need a white fresh water hose. Most all parks require a "donut" for your sewer connection. This is a adapter that prevents overflow and escaping sewer gases, in theory. I like using the plastic or rubber coated ties to secure cables, chains etc on the trailer. Be sure to have an assortment of fuses on hand. Walmart across the street from Oliver carries them, the ties, water hose, etc. Your wife will encourage you to get the black tank treatment packs to make the bathroom smell fresh. Again, sold at Walmart. Be prepared to have many stop you along the way to see your trailer so have Anita to give you some brochures. Happy camping and be safe Coy

Being new to the world of RVing, I am unsure about which Holding Tank Treatment is best. I am currently using Oxy-Kem drop in paks. It seems to work well but I have not added any slide valve lubricant as recommended in the manual. I noticed that one brand of holding tank treatment has a lubricant included. Would this be the best to use or would separate products be best? Thanks for any help from all you experienced campers! Pam

Having just picked up our Oliver last week, I thought others might appreciate a checklist of things to be prepared for on your exciting Oliver pick-up day! One of the very unique things about Oliver, aside from the trailer itself, is your pick-up experience. Unlike picking up your RV from a traditional dealership where you may be given a quick introduction to your new camper and then rushed out on the road, plan to spend a couple of hours at the factory going over your Oliver and completing the paperwork and payment - and then have Oliver help you set up at a nearby campsite for your first night of camping. After a pretty thorough introduction, the Oliver crew will help you hitch up and then walk you through your first propane fill up at a nearby station. Be sure to bring a form of payment for the propane - cash, debit and credit cards are accepted, and fill up rates are standard market rates. Next you'll follow your Oliver rep out to Natchez Trace Thousand Trails campground, about 20 minutes outside of Hohenwald, where Oliver puts you up for a night to test out everything before you head on your way home. You won't need to pay for camping for your first night, but you can extend your stay if you like. You'll be walked through a full setup of the camper with lots of opportunity to ask questions. And then, you will enjoy your first night in your camper!. This is your shakeout opportunity to test out all of the facilities of your Oliver, and report back to the factory in the morning if you find anything wrong at all so they can correct it before you hit the road. Even if you're an experienced RVer, it can be helpful to have an idea of what to expect on your pick-up day and what to prepare for. Before arriving, make sure you have the following already installed: - Appropriate tow package on your vehicle - Standard 2" ball with ~19" height from ground - Electric brake controller Your Oliver will come complete with all the hoses and electrical cords you'll need to hook-up. But there are some additional items you'll want to make sure you bring with you: - Wheel chocks - Leveling blocks (lumber pieces) - Small toolkit with general pliers, mallet and screwdrivers - just in case - RV Toliet Paper (*don't* bring your regular stuff from home) - RV Black Tank treatment (your toilet comes with a sample that will get you started. But if you want something biodegradable, it's easiest to start off with a fresh tank) - Disposable gloves for dumping your tank(s) And because the nearest stores will be a 20-30 minute drive away - packing to plan for the overnight stay will go a long way to maximizing your time in your Oliver check-out. Some ideas for your packing list: - Clothing for at least 2 nights (just in case you end up needing a second night) - Cookware to prepare your first meal(s) - Pots/pans - Spatula, spoon - Plates & utensils - Cups - Napkins - Food to cook - Don't count on your refrigerator to be cold enough for a few hours into your first night - Dish soap / sponge - Beverages - Linens for the bed(s) - Pillows - Foam mattress topper (if desired) - Towels for kitchen and bath - Toiletries - Toothbrush / toothpaste - Personal care items - Entry mat to reduce tracking of dirt into your new camper (entry way is 26.5" x 19") - Small bath mat (the bath floor is 22" x 24") - Pen and Paper for making notes - Record items you want Oliver to take a look at in the morning - Brainstorm things you want to pick up for your Oliver - Any questions you have - A DVD or two to test the A/V system with While camping, be sure to go over everything as best you can - as this is your opportunity to get things fixed before you hit the road. Be sure to check out all of the lights, monitoring systems, stove burners, water heater, fridge, microwave/oven, fans, A/C, batteries, DVD player, TV, etc. Enjoy! - Cherie