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Sorry to hear this and more so because I really like the design of your rear toolbox! I like how it has cabinet doors, opening to the rear, allowing the surface to be a tie-down area or spare work table. The boxes with hinged tops do not allow for such. I think about this every time I read a related post. I don't need one with an 8 ft open truck bed, but if I did... I would first remove the fiberglass cover and spare tire. Then mount the spare in the back left corner of the TV bed using a simple spare tire mount available on eTrailer and elsewhere. The cover would become a new garage ornament, a conversation piece! 🤣 This would delete a lot of rear weight which is the most important issue with adding weight to the rear. Ever LB in back lightens the trailer tongue weight and the Oliver with 8-9% tongue weight is already a towing safety issue. Very few Oliver owners seem to be concerned re this matter. With the spare gone, a custom cargo box could be +/- 10" close to the hull. This also helps the weight issue (shorter lever arm). Maybe you can move the spare and still use your awesome toolbox. Later mount the box pulled up closer to center. If there's no room in the truck bed, the spare tire could be frame-mounted on the streetside of the doghouse using the same standard bracket. 😎

Cool @pjt, and thank you for your input as a new Forum member! I hope very soon you get a chance to have an Oliver of your own! This thread was quiet for two days which surprised me. Handy, yeah no problem and I have flare tools from working automotive brake and fuel lines, though I may need a larger flare die. I recently purchased a vacuum pump and gauges and have restored the A/C in two of our trucks. The kit has fittings for R134A, R1234yf, R32 and R454B refrigerants. The Senville 18K and 24K BTU models I've been looking at uses the very efficient R454B which is 70% R32 and 30% R1234yf. Starting to worry about whether I need permits in our city. Hate to get .gov involved, nothing but corrupt bottom-feeders! 🤣 Much of electrical code is BS too, like having a power cutoff box at the unit, as any idiot can merely trip the breaker and I don't want the extra cost and another box mounted to the side of our home. Our city will likely add 100s of dollars in permit costs too. Glad to know that Pioneer is working out for you. We have a member here who installed a Pioneer inverter A/C rooftop on his Oliver. Most of the models are likely very close in features and quality, except for the refrigerant used. Did you sit the compressor/condenser unit on the ground or wall-mount it? In our application, I would like it wall mounted, but wondering if that would cause noise. Cooling bedrooms has different concerns than cooling a garage. Would love one in my garage but I just tough it out July and Aug when we see some real heat. Thank you for the suggestion on installation videos. I'll take a look. I'm going to talk to the heating & cooling company that I've used and trust to get some inputs on how to handle this in our area. More to come... Thanks again, and BTW feel free to ask us any questions if you are interested in purchasing an Oliver, the best little egg camper out there! 😎

While preparing for an upcoming trip, where I’ll probably need to run a generator for AC, I decided to utilize some unused space in the dog house to store my RotoPax 2 gallon gas can. I used to carry it in the tongue tray with the generator, but now I’ll always carry it for emergency fuel. I made a rectangular box that's sized so there is just enough friction to hold the gas can snugly in place without needing a strap, and narrow enough to fit between the propane tanks and the front of the doghouse. The tank can’t come out anyway because of the doghouse cover. I measured the can after leaving it in the sun for a while to account for any expansion. The fuel can holder is made from 1/2” void free plywood (baltic birch), and it’s put together with glue and screws. It was rattle can painted with primer and plenty of white gloss, then attached to the frame with self drilling 1/4” screws, like the ones holding the propane tank tray. It can be locked through the handle if desired. The RotoPax gas cans were originally made for off-roaders, and they are pricey at around $85 each. But they are practically indestructible, and they come in different colors for diesel or water. I’ve had mine for around 7 years and it’s never leaked a drop. There are knock-offs available on AZ for about half the price, but I can't vouch for their quality. From the plywood scraps, I also made a little box for the luggage scale that I use for weighing the propane tanks. It was made in the same way with magnets to hold the hinged lid closed. It was mounted in the doghouse in front of the propane tanks. Hope someone finds this useful. Cheers! Geoff

I know this is an old thread, but figured I’d add onto a thread that is close to my topic rather than start a new one. We’ve tried a couple of mattress toppers to make the “king” bed in the LE2 a little more comfortable for our old backs and stiff joints. Wr started with the basic 3” “memory foam” topper from Walmart that has no cover. It was just OK - but lacking a cover it tore easily and basically ended up in several pieces and had to be tossed. Next was the roughly 2-1/2 inch memory foam topper from IKEA that has a thick cotton/poly cover on both sides. The cover protects the foam and keeps it from getting wedged between the gaps between the cushions. BOTH memory foam toppers are incredibly heavy! Also too heavy for one person to carry by themselves. Both come compressed (Walmart - folded and strapped into a box about 2 feet square, IKEA - rolled in a dang heavy cylinder wrapped in heavy plastic. Between several spills - mostly cats launching morning coffee or tea onto the bed - the covers on the IKEA pad were looking pretty gross. They ARE removable and washable IF you have a super high capacity washer and about two hours to dry it. Getting the foam zipped back into the cover is fun to watch, but not impossible. When a window leak left us with a soggy bed, we decided to replace the topper. Off to IKEA. (Remind me never to go there again. I got my 10,000 steps that day.) We remembered that the memory foam topper we got the first time wasn’t quite the top of the line, so we figured “Oh boy! Upgrade!” but once we got there (and there wasn’t an employee to be found) we discovered they no longer have the topper we have - or the better one. Bummer. We chose a 2-3/4” standard (not memory) foam pad with similar padded cover. A bit lighter than the memory foam - but still just as expensive. $299 plus tax. We lugged it to the truck, unpacked it and heaved it on. Put on our sheets, and instantly - hated it. It bunches up. Pulls away from the sides, and leaves a mound between us. To be fair, we gave it two weeks to let it - and us - “adjust”. Today - we decided it’s not gonna work. We took it off, slid it back in the bag, and rolled it up. We dried out our previous IKEA memory foam mattress topper and I think we’re back to being mostly happy. When I get ambitious, I’ll pull the covers off and see if I can at least lighten the coffee stains. For those curious - the current IKEA product that gets our 1-star rating is the “Norrsele king très Grand Deux Places”. (If anybody wants it after I dissed it so thoroughly, let me know - I’ll make you a helluva deal.)

Does anyone have one of these? It only weighs 50# and 58-60dB. https://www.maxpeedingrods.com/product/4000-watt-portable-dual-fuel-propanegas-generator-inverter-bluetooth-e-start.html Specification Running Watts 3200W(Gas)/3000W(LPG) Starting Watts 4000W(Gas)/3600W(LPG) Fuel Type Gasoline/LPG 25% load Runtime 7h(Gas)/20h(LPG) 50% load Runtime 4h(Gas)/12h(LPG) Starting System Recoil Start/Electric Start/Bluetooth Start Running Amps 26.7A(Gas)/25A(LPG) Peak Amps 33.3A(Gas)/30A(LPG) compatible for AC voltage 120V Compatible for AC Frequency 60hz Fuel Tank Capacity 4L(1.06Gal) Oil Capacity 0.45L/0.12Gal Engine Type 4-stroke, OHV, air-cooled Engine Displacement 145cc Oil Type 10W30 Volume Level (23 Feet) 58-60dB Net Weight 23kg/50.7lbs Gross Weight 27.5kg/60.63lbs Generator Size 18.9x12x17.32inch (L*W*H) Package Size 20.08x13.19x19.09inch (L*W*H)

Hey Gang, It's past time to retire the Penguin AC for something quieter and more suited to our eventual upgrade to a 600ah Lithium system. I know we have owners with the Truma, Houghton, and dometic freshjet 3 series. (Thanks to Roadlotus for her write up on the FJ3) I am leaning toward the new Dometic Freshjet 4 or 5 series. Reasons include: A) Quieter than the penguin (what isn't) B) would be easy to fit into the existing structure C) Service almost anywhere D) Has iphone app control as well as the Air Distribution Box control and E) Should be energy efficient enough to allow a few hours operation on a 600 ah system. I was considering the Furrion Chillcube but the possibility of condensate overrunning the pan down the side of the trailer is a deal killer. Just wanted to ask what I might not be considering on the above list OR if there is an outlier that is not on my Radar. TIY, Scotty

@taylor.coyote It sounds like you have an RV tech on the way. That's the best I think in your situation, especially if you are not familiar with these parts, and on the road without all the tools. As @John Dorrer mentioned, many of us owners with older Olivers have had to replace their Automatic Transfer Relay (ATR) switch, AND SHOULD!!!! I've attached my pic of the old style box (insides) and my new style switch box. I changed out the box myself (with shore power disconnected!!!!). It took me maybe 20 or 30 minutes. I've also noted in my pics that my front shore power receptacle does NOT go thru my Electrical Management System (EMS) box. Many do have their front port going thru the EMS, mine was just not done like that at the factory, which proved handy last year in the hot July whether in Georgia, when my EMS kept over heating and switching off. I think it's time for a new one (to-do list). But, I always carry an external EMS to place on the exterior camp ground pedestals. When I realized it was not the camp ground killing the power and it was my EMS, I just used the front inlet port to run the power and used my external EMS for the rest of the trip. Worked like a champ. So, I guess I will NOT re-route that front port thru the EMS in the future, lesson learned. Not everyone has that front port. If folks do not have the front inlet power generator receptacle, then they will not have an ATR box. Hope this helps a bit, and you get help quickly. Reminder, the ATR switch box should be an annual inspectable item. I just checked mine too since I could not find my old pictures. My old box was very difficult, and scary, to push in the sides of the box to release the tabs. The new box is MUCH easier to push in and release the tabs. Here is the new style ATR switch box (I only order this type of important items. from eTrailer, NOT Amazon: https://www.etrailer.com/RV-Transfer-Switch/Progressive-Dynamics/PD5110010Q.html

We do the clean-up each time we break camp. (Though around the cat little box - every time we attend to it.) We have a carpet runner - that goes from the bathroom door to under the edge of the (king) bed and covers the width of the “linoleum”. I shake it out to get rid of the loose dirt, and we wash it about once a month or so. Our biggest issue is cat hair - which seems to be magnetically attracted to the upholstery. It’s not a big issue for the furnace return register as we rarely use it. We go through the sticky “lint rollers” at a pretty good rate. We did inherit one of those large outdoor rugs/mats that we use if we’re going to be in one place for more than a few days. Out West, we found it likes to blow away. We found it two or three camp sites downwind once.

We are now over 4,000 miles traveling this spring/summer in our Elite 1. We love this camper and are having a great time. So, we now know why our induction stove top is inoperable when we are boondocking w/o using a generator…it is not wired through the inverter. We have been in contact with Tech support and the Service dept. Service spoke with the Design and also Production. 1. Design said the stove top was run through the inverter because it would drain the batteries after 90 min of use. (We don’t cook that way when boondocking, or even when we are hooked to shore power) 2. Production said they would not support Oliver paying for or sharing the cost of rewiring because it is functioning as designed. I would have to pay out of pocket. They were unsure what that would do to the warranty. (To us, we believe this is a design issue that needs correcting) 3. The cost to have Oliver rewire to the existing 2000w inverter is $600+. 4. The cost to have Oliver rewire and add a 3000w inverter is just under $2500. I have been in the manufacturing world before I retired and I understand the response, they are not the decision makers. I know that I need to get to the decision maker level. I have contacted the sales person at B&B RV in Denver who is advocating on our behalf to his Rep at Oliver. I’m waiting on a call from that person. I have been told, but haven’t verified, that the 2027 Elite I units are wired to the inverter and this issue was a topic of discussion. However, the rep had not heard yet about our unit. I hope to verify that info soon. They are advertising a 2 burner induction stovetop in the 2027 Elite I. I would be surprised if that is actually what is in the 2027 units, but I could be wrong. So the story continues. I’m disappointed so far that 1) we were told the induction stovetop would work on battery and it doesn’t. 2) the response is very slow and I have to initiate a lot of contact to keep the ball rolling. 3) The design didn’t keep the boondocking campers in mind yet the marketing very obviously did (Check out the Oliver website). 4) Oliver, so far, expects us to pay for an “upgrade” in order to address this issue. I am asking for a 3000w inverter and wiring. I will provide my time and cost to travel to the factory and wait while they fix this (and a couple of other minor issues). We will see what Happens and I’ll keep you all informed. Thanks again for all your insights and information. Lamar

Love to hear suggestions for a generator. Any thoughts?

Lamar, the GFCI under the dinette should power ALL your AC outlets in line. Plug something into the outdoor outlet (or the one above the kitchen sink) and trip the GCFI under the dinette. The other AC outlets should then ALL be OFF. @topgun2 Bill suggested this in his comment. However this is NOT your main issue re your induction cooktop. If the induction cooktop is on a GFCI circuit it should be wired to an independent GCFI (not that outlet under the dinette). And if your induction cooktop works on Shore Power, then GFCI is not your issue either. I see you have a Legacy I. What inverter and battery setup do you have? I hate to think that what @Steve and MA wrote is correct in that OTT did not wire your induction cooktop to your inverter circuit. If you have the Xantrex 3000, all 120VAC circuits should be wired to it, but not so with a lesser 2K inverter. Wow, if this is the case, OTT should have installed an LP cooktop instead! You wrote that your microwave works on inverter. Given all this is true, you need to get this corrected for the long-term. (OTT wired several things in very strange ways in our hull, so I have rewired everything!) Not the right time while boondocking, but I have a short-term on-the-road fix for you! 😎 First be OFF shore power and turn your inverter OFF. This ensures there is no 120VAC in your hull, so you can safely rewire the AC power panel. You can do a quick fix in your breaker box! Do the following at you own risk (I would do it)! Remove the breaker box cover and remove the breaker labeled for your inverter. Loosen the front screw and pull the black wire free (the hot). Do the same for the microwave breaker. Replace the hot for the induction cooktop into the breaker for your microwave. Now you have induction cooking on inverter but your microwave will not be powered. You could wire both hots to the microwave breaker, if you want to use both on inverter. However if you do so, it would not be wired "to code" and you'll only want to use only ONE appliance at a time. However, if you turned both ON at the same time, the breaker would merely trip, no big deal. If it was me and I found it to be TRUE that OTT did NOT wire the induction cooktop to the inverter circuit 😒, I would get this done in 10 minutes just in time for breakfast! 🤣

This long awaited swap-mod is now checked off my to-do list! Like many, I tolerated the noisy Dometic Penguin ll long enough; so glad I was finally able to take decisive action with this install. After a couple years of mulling over the various replacement models being marketed, a unit emerged that caught my attention; the newly available Atmos 4.4 seemingly met all of my expectations. I will forego the removal of the Dometic, here is how I proceeded forward: First and foremost, all AC and DC power sources were turned OFF! Scaffolding and equipment/supplies were then staged for Dometic ‘liftoff’ and subsequent Atmos ‘lunar landing’ (only appropriate since I live a couple miles from the NASA Mission Control Center in Houston). Roof area in need of cleaning. Notice the raised fiberglass landing on my year model and that the former condensate drain tube was simply disconnected rather than cutoff. Roof area throughly cleaned and prepped. I decided to adhere the square self-adhesive foam roof seal directly onto the fiberglass and then apply non-leveling Dicor around the cutout perimeter to further ensure the best seal possible. In positioning the foam seal, care was taken to center it as evenly possible, thereby allowing about 1/4-3/8” of exposed fiberglass to lay a bead of the Dicor and finger smooth to finish. Interior view of the Atmos being positioned over the roof cutout. Note the use of the mounting bolts as a guide, as recommended by SDG. Because the ‘rough cut’ edges of the layers of fiberglass (inner and outer hulls, and spacial filler) were inconsistent, I used the foam seal as a reference to accurately center and align the unit; distances measured to each respective bolt. Initially, installation instructions were followed by adhering the supplied straight piece of self-adhesive foam onto the bottom of the unit as a rear support, but it did not make contact with the roof due to relief of the aforementioned fiberglass landing. Alternatively, the foam piece was cut in half and each adhered onto the fiberglass, in like manner as the square seal, along the outer edges of said landing. This adaptation proved very effective in application and purpose, as the last of the next three pics demonstrates. Now that the exterior unit is properly positioned and supported, it’s back inside to further installation. As a side note, I made use of a portable a/c to buffer the heat and humidity of the day! Although my son helped with the heavy lifting and positioning, I cut him loose and completed the remaining tasks solo. Before proceeding, I used foil tape to treat the end of the aforementioned condensate drain tube and secure it to the side. Next the installation of the fabric air plate duct subassembly was started (provided Dreiha Atmos 4.4 Manual details the process). Note I used foil tape on both the upper (at Atmos bottom) and lower (at mounting frame) duct plates, even though most installs viewed applied to the mounting frame plate only. Between the upper and lower duct plate installs, the ceiling assembly mounting frame was bolted in place and hand torqued using a screwdriver only (torque specified in Manual). The AC power connection was very straightforward. The ceiling assembly’s junction box cover was removed, a strain relief fitting installed at one end (the other end had a preinstalled protector) and respective wires routed inside. I reused the Wago Lever-Nuts from the Dometic install, but first tinned the stranded wires of the Atmos lead for optimum assurance in application; electrical tape was used to further secure the Wago connectors. Ground wires were secured per the Manual. The junction box cover was then replaced, DC thermostat wire bundle loom wrapped and tucked away for future use, and ceiling grille fastened in place. . I’m very pleased with this mod, quality of the Atmos and ease of installation! I should mention that SDG preinstalled a SoftStartRV. I will provide an update once the furnace wiring and thermostat mount is completed. A special shoutout to @rideadeuce for forging the way with his install of an Atmos!

LOL -- I have all my remote controls in there, where Oliver Delivery team placed them -- but also these things: my fire lighters; a clear plastic travel "soap box" that I use to collect miscellaneous "mystery parts" that I find now and then; I keep 'em just in case; sandwich baggie with bulldog clips, paperclips, rubber bands and twist-ties small flat koozies small pliers and a screwdriver with changeable tips; pens, pencils, sharpie markers; small box of magnets; a pad of sticky notes; my extremely condensed "GO LIST" that is my pre-travel checklist -- it sits on top and I only have to take a peek to be sure I'm ready. But I like your use as spice drawer. My spices wouldn't fit in there, though.

Have an elite1 with just a charger. House power cord came disconnected and drained AGM batter totally dead. Was able to recharge it with a commercial charger and now holds 12.5 volts but, I have no power for 12 volts items. I checked the power coming in from the battery and I get power to the bus bar and after that, I'm lost to where to trace for the lost of power. The charger is working because everything is working when useing 115 volts. Can anyone recommend where I should be looking for somekind of breaker I can't seem to find. No power going to the 12v fuse box either. Appreciate any help here....

All though my refrigerator did not come unplugged, I proactively replaced my refrigerator plug after someone else reported that their refrigerator came unplugged. This is the type of plug I used and it has worked for 6 or 7 years. I don’t remember, but I may have also used a tie wrap. John Davies replaced his outlet for different reasons and this will take you to his mod. https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/6722-how-to-replace-the-120-vac-refrigerator-outlet-under-the-galley-sink-water-lines-with-a-waterproof-junction-box/?srsltid=AfmBOop_r6SWUqYp2fvGVz5cXJio0oNzeQnuFWMKZobs6ISEKIy-36a7 Mossey

Where the fridge plugs into a standard 15 amp duplex receptacle sure, but not where the battery charger plugs into the back of the AC breaker box. Thats not a standard receptacle. Anyway, if I’m cutting plugs off, I’m gonna hard wire it.

I think we’d be voiding the warranty that way as well. I doubt a snap-in twist-lock receptacle is available to fit into the back of the A/C breaker box. Rather than upgrade the band-aid, I’d opt to eliminate the disconnect entirely.

We do the same with the “Dustbuster” to pick up the loose dirt and grit and various grass clippings and such. Since we have a cat box crammed under the dinette, this is the prime spot for kitty litter that refuses to stay where it belongs. I’d be leery of anything that sounds like “wash and wax all” on floors. I had a previous roommate who thought that Pledge was great for shining up wood floors. It it - but it makes them into ice rinks if you try to stop or change direction wearing socks…

Wire nuts?! Yikes. My SOP for this kind of hard wiring would be soldered connections and heat shrink tubing. Using a higher quality receptacle for the fridge is certainly an option. Pretty sure even Leviton is made in China these days… As I mentioned, that the battery charger plugs into a single snap-in socket on the back of the A/C breaker box, a high-quality replacement may be difficult to source. Just as an aside that drives home the point of how much vibration that the trailer and everything in it is subject to, I noticed a screw holding the rain gutter above the door had backed out by about a cm. I guess going over the whole trailer and tightening things back up is just one of those things that needs to be done periodically.

Many have secured the Norcold AC plug to duplex outlet under the sink with a tie-wrap and perhaps same could be done with the charger plug, as well. However, that may not be as easy due to the ‘snap in’ feature of that inlet, as described. Perhaps the “10-12” unsupported run of power cord” could be secured with a tie-wrap in such a manner as to better secure that connection. In looking at my 2020 OLEll, it appears to be hardwired into the AC panel box with a typical clamp style strain relief fastener and likely hardwired to a main breaker.

Not replace, but repair the connection so it cannot come off again. Is it for the inverter/charger? So a 110V plug like the fridge? If so, it’s not the plug but a cheap outlet receptacle. That could be replaced with a Leviton or a quality outlet not Made in you know where! Cheesy, yes! OTT wired the outputs on our inverter using a residential junction box and wire nuts! 🤣 Hardwire? I’d do that in a heartbeat! 😎

Point well-taken on the replacing the socket and/or plug - and if this one were old or worn I’d agree. However, since this one hasn’t been subjected to multiple plugging/unplugging cycles - which would cause one to be loose or weak - I doubt replacing it would yield any better results. Short of cutting off the plug and hard-wiring it to the source, replacing it would be unlikely to solve the problem or eliminate the need to check on it periodically. Additionally, though the receptacle the fridge plugs into IS a standard duplex outlet, the one the battery charger plugs into is a special one that that snaps into the back of the A/C breaker box, and probably doesn’t have a higher-quality replacement available. Only cutting off the plug and hard wiring it will truly “fix” the issue. Anything less is just a band aid. IMHO - having installed items like the battery charger and fridge plug into a household socket is a pretty cheesy way to handle power on a vehicle subject to vibration and shock as part of its everyday mission. Kind of akin to using household Romex on a boat. (Which I’ve seen done - but not by professionals or knowledgeable laymen.) And correct on the “auto” mode on the Norcold fridge switching to A/C when available. It normally does this. When it stayed in LP mode even with shore power connected is when I went into trouble-shooting mode. The issue was not my failure to understand or select the operating mode I desired.

We got our LE2 with the bike rack mount and realized we will probably always carry our folding Ebikes in the back of the truck under cover. With that understanding we decided to add a cargo tray and locking box for general items needed for setup, and camp site necessities. Obviously weight is a critical factor so with the tray, box and gear inside we are shooting for less than 200# total. I'm sure we have succeeded after adding up the weigh of all items. The most difficult part is making the extended rails for the tray to mount on. I used the same T6061 aluminum that Oliver uses on their frame members. It's available in small sizes at local metal supply houses such as Metal Supermarket. The aluminum tubing drills and cuts easily with carbide woodworking tools. Use a little lite oil on the blade to keep the aluminum from fowling the blade. You must use good eye protection when cutting. I copied the way the bike rack rails were machined. Here's the results of the project: We have pulled the camper a couple times for local camp outs and the weight of the addition is completely unnoticeable while towing. The box is well made but light weight with locking double latch system. It has a double layer of aluminum in the lid and is foam filled to keep the contents from heating up too much in direct sun. The whole thing is very sturdy and at 220 pounds I can stand on the box lid to see the top of the camper with no effect to the box lid. Good traction and very solid. The softener tank is mounted with a tank wall mount and strap and is set up with quick connects and the standard hoses hook up in just a minute. The softener comes with a regeneration kit and it takes about an hour to perform a regeneration using a box of table salt. It will last up to 2000 gallons of water depending on the mineral content. No need to remove the tank for regeneration, just connect the kit to the external QD fittings and run the process. When done, you are good to go for a few more camping trips. No more hard water scale or rust on pluming fixtures. Remove the tank for winter storage inside the garage. I'm very pleased with the overall project. The box can be removed just as the bike mount is removed for spare tire access. You can actually access the spare without completely removing the tray assembly, Just slide it out about 6-8 inches and the cover and tire are removeable. I bought a self lit license frame and mounted to the back of the tray. I added a plug connection to the license light wire to power the new license plate light. I wanted a removable connection for obvious reasons. The connection is mounted on the lower part of the spare tire cover under the original license bracket. The old license plate bracket is still useable if the tray and box are removed. Tray: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0017H9N4E/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Box: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000MK4F68/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 License Bracket: https://www.amazon.com/Car-License-Plate-Light-Chrome/dp/B00S1Y5TSK?pd_rd_w=jpDah&content-id=amzn1.sym.e8faeee7-63c9-4cb3-96e0-e50a41f3b35b&pf_rd_p=e8faeee7-63c9-4cb3-96e0-e50a41f3b35b&pf_rd_r=018MZ7KVYFFMGM0WSKBV&pd_rd_wg=mdsBW&pd_rd_r=eff79229-c9bb-45a5-8656-400649d9a361&pd_rd_i=B00S1Y5TSK&psc=1&ref_=pd_bap_d_grid_rp_0_1_ec_t Softener: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09Y2KNFFL/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1 Tank Bracket: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00208DY76/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I do as well, and would like to have the extra space and security over the OEM basket. At the 2025 Ralley I spoke to the Seabiscuit Team and suggested that they consider an enhancement for the Olivers. My suggestion was to increase the box depth (Fore and Aft) to include jack inside. That would gain about 5" of additional space less the volume of the jack. My only problem, and reason for not following your lead is that without massive solar and a nuclear power plant (600+ amp Litho's), I have to carry a gas can. Not good in a sealed box with stuff that could spark a leak. For safety reasons I would not be safe carrying one in my TV bed (with a sealed cover), in the cab of our TV,or on the back of Ollie. With your set-up would it be realistic to mount a 2 gallon fuel in front of your box in mini basked with a stone guard? Another mod could be to address the gas can issue dirctly. Since gas fumes are heavier than air, maybe having a wire mesh for part of the bottom of the box to keep the box fume level below the lower explosive limit should there be a gas can leak. What do you think? GJ

I want to charge my Oliver with Blueitti (sp?) battery "solar generator". Is it correct that I need to plug a "ground neutral plug" in one of the Bluetti outlets to make it work correctly?