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Chris - For what its worth - back in March I paid $147 for this same converter. I found it in Amazon's Warehouse! Given that it came with a 30 day guarantee I figured that 30 days would give me plenty of time to install and test it to make sure that it functioned properly. Certainly I seconded guessed my purchase when it showed up bouncing around inside a large cardboard box with no padding material inside. However, I installed it (very simple) and everything has worked as it should. Good luck! Bill

Is your KISAE TS plugged into the inverter? The install in my unit was very straightforward; simply spliced the KISAE TS into the existing 12-2 Romex from the breaker box and plug it into an inverter supplied power outlet. Yes, the terminal connectors seemed inadequate, but suffice; I had issue with the extremely short power cord on the KISAE TS, really limited positioning. Good luck with your endeavor!

Okay! It's time to get serious about ensuring all my electrical connections are tight enough. Over the years I've found quite a few lose connections in the old #110. Including nearly burned out connections inside the auto-switch box, very brown plastic bus bar. I don't know what is good or what is crap out there in terms of a "good-enough" torque screwdriver (or wrench). I've seen some reviews saying some are difficult to hold over a certain torque spec. Any experienced owners out there who could recommend something? Just enough to support anything in an Oliver. I don't need to get crazy with it. Thanks!

Hello Everyone, I do not own an Oliver, however, I have developed a novel solution to the Houghton humidity issue that I would like to pass on. My solution builds on the compressor relay idea that was posted by GSMBear. My Design also interrupts the low-speed fan power so it will run when the compressor is on, however, it adds a timer control to start the fan every six minutes to sample the RV temperature. I live in Oregon so it is not as humid here as it is in the south, however, this mod produces dehydrated air in the RV and the air conditioner discharges a lot of water it has pulled out of the RV, The timing cycle works like this: When the AC brings the RV to the target temperature and the compressor shuts down the timer will run the fan for 52 seconds to purge the remaining cold air. (Purging the remaining cold air improves efficiency.) Then the timer will shut down the fan and wait for six minutes. The timer will then run the fan for 52 seconds to sample the air in the RV. If the AC detects a temperature rise it will start up, else the cycle will repeat by waiting for six minutes. The net result is only 1/8 as much time is spent blowing air over the wet coils, dramatically reducing the water return to the cabin and giving the water more time to drip off the coils. It would be easy for the manufacturer to implement this solution in firmware and it is very frustrating that the manufacturer has not done so. On a side note, I would not be in favor of relocating the plenum thermistor as it may be used for other purposes like detecting a coil freeze-up. I installed the timer and relay into a plastic spacer that sits on top of the control box of my AC2801. The links below are for photos of the moded spacer before and after the installation. If anyone would like more details about my solution I would be happy to share. https://trontamer.com/dl/mod1.jpg https://trontamer.com/dl/mod2.jpg

Romex is household electrical cable, usually white or whitish gray, that contains 3 wires: black, white, bare. Yes, 3 connectors: hot (black wires), neutral (white), ground (bare). They splice the feed line, water heater, and fridge lines together. I put a bend in both Romex just before the connectors and tied the Romex together before the bend with zip ties. This was to prevent cable movement from pulling directly on the connectors. Everything in the junction box. The box is what prevented a possible fire. Electrical tape.

When you say 2 Romex cables, what are they? I see 3 of these connectors. Where you zip tying around all of the cables of the 3 connectors? Did you put everything back into the junction box or leave them out? We have a 2022 and I want to have a better understanding when I pick up the trailer before our next trip. What type tape did you use? Thanks

This happened to us. In our 2022, a single 20 amp breaker runs both the fridge and the Suburban water heater. There was a junction box on the side of the water heater (under the bed) and I found one of the wire connectors inside melted, leaving the circuit to the fridge dead. It looked like the connector wiggled loose and overheated. After replacing the connector, I added some zip ties to minimize movement of the wiring during travel.

How did you test this? I ask because if the problem you have is a grounding issue, then you may still have power to the receptacle. If you tested by using the hot and neutral wires supplied at the plug, and the neutral is bad, then your meter will show no power. Most all of my electrical issues have been with bad (loose) grounds. Hook up your meter to your supply (hot) wire and use another neutral/ground to see if you get power. If you do, then you know it's a grounding issue and you can start tracing that back to the bad connection. If you still have no power using a different ground, then most likely it is a supply line issue, so work back from there. Also, since your receptacle is out and disconnected, I'd do a continuity check to be sure it is functional. Finally, I have the Dometic 3-way refrigerator and there is a 5amp fuse for the AC heater hidden away in a control box attached to the back of the refir, accessed by removing the lower vent outside. Check your manual to see about yours. Time to buy a multimeter if you don't already have one! These issues can be challenging to trace. Just be methodical and don't ignore the grounding side of the tests. Good luck. Dave I edited this for some better clarity...I hope.

The Truma Soft Start device for the Aventa air conditioner is now available from the factory. I contacted Truma Headquarters and they scheduled their local factory mobile tech to do the install at my home in Scottsdale, AZ. The actual install took about 20 minutes. I ran it through several tests and I'm happy to say it performed perfectly. I'm now able to power my Aventa from a 15 amp outlet, a 20 amp outlet or my Honda eu3200i generator. Nice to have the option for Boondocking or Moochcamping. The generator is now able to run in ECO (auto load demand) mode, which enables it to run at a much lower rpm which reduces fuel consumption and noise level significantly. The unit cost $425 installed + travel time. It comes with a 2 year warranty. I don't think they have mobile technicians available everywhere so check with the factory.

Please be advised, the breaker installed was a 20A not the 30A as mentioned in my reply. At the same time a second 20A breaker was also installed in the panel and wire routed to the nightstand where two desktop receptacles with USB ports were mounted atop that table, then further routed under the curbside bed to the receptacle shown in my January 15 post above, A dozen simple mods!, Additional USB ports. I stage a small dehumidifier in the galley on the stovetop cover and its’ wire can now be run down the wall and along the mattress for power. A third 20A breaker installed provides an auxiliary receptacle inside the rear seat hatch for miscellaneous use; light, fan, etc. Nightstand AC/USB outlets very handy for staging/charging electronics. Dehumidifier cord off counter as opposed to leading upward to the under cabinet outlet; makes for a cleaner look. Dehumidifier cord/plug below curbside twin bed. Miscellaneous duplex outlet inside dinette hatch on left. The receptacle box to the right is an expansion of the Xantrex setup to enable use of the LFPs to power the Dometic a/c.

We have the nightstand that has the lower door going into the basement. While set up camping everything stored in the basement is removed (hoses, etc) and the litter box is put in, cleaned daily from the outside opening. During transit the litter box sits on the floor behind passenger seat. Works great for us. Perhaps a fall foliage trip in NY and NH and then down to friends in NC.

Looks like a great trip. Curious: where do you put the litter box?

The inverter breaker is under the street side bed, at the front (battery box wall). The sequence is as follows: Turn off solar. Trip the inverter breaker, then turn off your Lithium batteries. To turn back on reverse order. You don't want to put loads on the inverter by turning a battery off or on, one at a time with the inverter on. Again, 1. Turn off solar 2. Turn off inverter at breaker 3. Turn off batteries This information was provided by Oliver, and confirmed by Lithonics. Our winter storage needed a conversation with Lithonics.

An Elite 1 is what I we have also. Been liesurely tracing this problem for a while. I did find one wire very loose at the switch on the back wall & fixed that but no luck there. I've found that I have power to the fuse box but I stopped at that point not wanting to start tracing the wiring in some extremely cramped areas. My aversion to electricity ( I can't see it!) has dampened my enthusiasm. I'll have to find my get up and go and start looking again.

No , pics ( I’m not computer savvy). There were about three or four wires going to this little black relay box.. on the Elite 1 it was mounted by the battery box.. don’t know about LE II

After the rally , when we got home i used the pump a times.. nothing.. fuse was good . I started to check, no 12 v to the pump.. i didnt want to to tear into the vanity sw. or the other one on the monitor panel.. I let it go for a while .. i thought i hope i didnt want to trace wire.. I started with the purple from the fuse box ( that feeds the pump 12v). To my luck i guess there was a terminal block that was lying loose, there is a small relay .. connected .. Success.. It was mounted on the street side under bed.. 😅. Major job diverted..

I used the OEM Zamp panels (90 watts each) to make it easy due to the SAE (reverse polarity) connection. There is an empty SAE connection at the junction box under the main panels, so super simple to add. I think I used a SAE Y-combiner to connect the 2 panels (I would have to look). I got the mounts from Amsolar.com. But you are right there is lots of lightweight, flexible options these days. I have thought about changing the whole solar array but due to lack of flat real estate on the roof I have decided to keep what I have. So if you want to keep it simple and plug and play, I would still just go with the Zamp panels.

@rideadeuce Mike, I'm wondering re your extra solar panel. What make/model? Do you recommend? It does look HD/thick, like a lighter/thinner panel might be enough at that narrow width. Please let me know. I'd like to add some solar eventually, mounted on an angle, in that area of the roof. Did you just tie them into the junction box under the OTT installed panels? I know they make the make connectors like these for that purpose. Thanks 1 Pair, Solar Connectors T Branch Parallel Adapter Cable, 1 Pair 10awg Waterproof Solar 1 To 2 Solar Panel Connectors Wire Plug Tool Kit For Solar Panel (1*m/ff+1*f/mm),temu

First, Welcome to the OTT Family! I'm not familiar with your solar port, but I do own the 200-watt solar suit case. I like it a lot. When I was buying mine, I sought guidance just as you are. One of the owners indicated that he preferred getting two of the 100's because the 200-watt version is large and a bit heavy. After two years of use, I regret not following his advice. The challenge is storage. The 200-watt set is quit large for storage. It is wide enough that I can't stand it on edge in my truck bed. So flat it must lay, taking up a LOT of space. That makes it much more challenging than two smaller ones stacked would have. Sure it will fit into my F-150 short box bed, but it then demands priority and not much can be stored on top of them - despite their great case. If I were going to re-do, I for sure would not have gotten the bigger one. Now if you are set on the 200's I'll offer you mine at 40% off, and I'll get my two sets of 100's. Both win. Well not quite. I would not accept that offer if I were you though. Unless you have a 8' bed for your TV and not much else in it. 🙂 GJ

This may apply to you if you have to replace one of the original 'Bright Way' AGM batteries supplied on earlier OTT's. Ours is a 2020, LE II. I am not familiar with other batteries physical attributes which OTT may have used over the years, so it may/may not apply. The carry handle for the Bright Way's sits imbedded in the top of the battery and can be lifted up to carry. If a Briteway is replaced with SoB that has the carry handle that extends over the side that hooks into a collar, it will be a tighter fit for that battery to 'play' alongside the Bright Way's. Worse yet, that side carry battery will cause those batteries post/terminal to be just a little bit further away from the post/terminal it needs connect to. For me it was LIKE 1/2 INCH further, rendering that old cable to be too short. For reference this is one of the longer 2-0 cables that connects the Curb-side terminal to the Street-side terminal. I did think for about a nano-second about using a cutoff tool to remove the offending side carry on the new battery, BUT NO. And there are probably some Electrical/Mechanical engineer types on the forum, that have a simple work around which does not require a new longer cable. I am not one of those blessed individuals, but I do try to keep my wiring mods simple, especially in and around the battery compartment. I am also not one of those that have the hydraulic cable crimpers or a supply of the heavier cables or connectors to just make one up. So, not to drag this out any longer... I had a new cable made (I went with 1" longer) and all is well, it now has a slight arch to the cable, in case I end up replacing another Bright Way with SoB. A bonus is, my used and maybe needed in the future cable, now resides in my used and maybe needed in the future parts box, in the dark regions of the basement. B~Out

Agree with Patriot. The keypad works well. Order the silicon cover. The original will show wear on the numbers you use. It will eventually crack. Not sure why they do not just come with the silicone. If you do have issues RVlock has good customer service. They come with a fob but we never use it. Carry the key with you just in case as a backup. Change or test the batteries yearly. This did not happen to me. But passing on a story. Lock quit working. The trailer key was in the glove box of the tow vehicle. Tow vehicle was locked. Fob for the TV was in the trailer! They were able to get into the trailer by crawling in through the basement. It was not easy because you have to push up on the basement cover which has a heavy mattress and bedding on top of it while laying on your back. Apparently a very good workout testing both strength and flexibility. Two lessons were passed on to me. Carry your truck key with you even if you are just walking around the campground. And if you work on the lock, like replacing the key pad, double check the connector. There is a plastic connector between the keypad and lock mechanism. Make sure it clicks in securely.

This one is made more for storage but the box is not removable but I still think I would rather have this than just an access door. How often do you need to get to the plumbing? My main problem with using the OEM shelf is the ability to get bottles in and out... it is just not very user friendly. They make custom sizes and configurations... maybe one could cut out the box to fit around sink drainage pipe. https://www.deepbluemarine.com/products-detail.cfm?ProductID=504 Mike a

Totally agree. I have found that it is not needed if you are using a Honda 2000/2200 inverter generator and a Houghton. Others may have different results for other generators. GJ

Been reading older Houghton threads here. It seems several have stated the soft start is not required, even off inverter to small generator, please comment. That would be a good save at $350! Also, what is the Oliver roof thickness at the AC opening? I have not read this being discussed. An option for the "thick roof kit" for >2 3/4". Likely it's less since this has not been mentioned. Thanks

Grade 30 confirmed - received my Andersen today via UPS (talk about a heavy box) and inspected the chain. It’s marked “L3” which is the grade 30.