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I agree that I think your batteries have shut off due to being discharged to 10%. This is not a problem and the batteries have not been damaged. The shutoff feature is designed to protect the batteries in the event they are discharged to a low level. If you turn the batteries and discharge them completely they could be damaged, so first job is to get at least some charge in them I think a good place to start would be to install the Victron Connect app, the lithionics app, and the xantrex app on your phone. I would then pull your trailer into a sunny location on a sunny day and turn on both batteries by pressing the the power button on both batteries until it turns blue. Then make sure your xantrex inverter is not turned on at the wall panel, ie the button should not be depressed. Now, using the Victron app or the wall mounted indicator, make sure there is current flowing into the batteries. If the answer is no, check the large red and white switch in the overhead cabinet above the street side bed and make sure it is on. Under good sunny conditions I would expect between 5-20 amps to be flowing into the batteries, depending on the angle of the sun. Now that you have some solar charging occurring, I would make sure that all the apps you installed above are communicating with your batteries, xantrex inverter and the Victron shunt. Make sure you understand what they are telling you. Now would be a good time to try the generator. You can use one or two generators. For use of two, you will need to connect the generators together using the parallel cord from Honda. If you use only one generator you will need to decrease the breaker rating in the xantrex to 15-20 amps as I mentioned above. The batteries will charge faster using two generators and a higher breaker rating. The overload light I mentioned is on the front of the generator and is red on my eu2200. You should now be able to monitor charging by watching how many amps are flowing into the batteries using either the lithionics app or the Victron app and the battery state of charge using the lithionics app. The Victron state of charge percent may be incorrect until the batteries reach 100% State Of Charge, SOC. I know this seems like a lot, but once you are familiar with how things work, it is really pretty simple. i would make an afternoon of this project with a beer some music and enjoying your awesome new trailer. Last, there are a look of great video online explaining how trailer electrical systems work. good luck and I hope this helps.

As a new owner, in time you will know all there is to know about the wonderful "Gizmology" the new trailers can have. Until then the learning curve is high. But you have come to the right place as the above guys are razor sharp. But a simple "ole school" check out may clarify things to assist with the learning curve. Do adjust your charge current as suggested above first. I recommend using 15 amps as suggested for now. You can optimize it later. A. Hopefully you have a volt meter. If you don't i recommend getting one that is a meter and has a clamp for measuring amps. My favorite onw was suggested by John Davies. It is not that expensive but sure works well. More than a few OTT owners would agree with this choice. Don't get one that can only measure up to ten amps thru the leads. Having the clamp is essential. B. I would first manually check the as is battery voltage and compare what is says to what your Xantrex system says. Small step. Take a mental note of the as is battery voltage. If they are the same, then likely you know how to read the voltage and have confidence in what the Xantrex is telling you. Another small step. C. Then using just one generator, set it up without being connected to Ollie at first. Start your Honda not connected and put it into Eco mode. Let it warm up then switch it to regular mode and back. This step ensures you are familiar with the rpm of it loafing unloaded on Eco or running hard not loaded. D. Now connect one of your Hondas while in Eco mode and listen to what it does. If your OTT charging system is working, it will quickly transition from Eco to Run mode. If you hear it now working, take your volt meter and get clamp it around one of your battery cables. (Meter set to DC AMPs. You should get a reading pretty close to the setting you entered into your Xantrex... Report back here and the above guys will be on a track to ask some more questions knowing the status of your system. Once you get it figured out, then ask them how to set up your system for Honda and Companion Honda to charge at a higher amp rate. GJ

I am questioning why it charged very well the FIRST time using the one generator, with neutral bond plugged in on the generator, the only difference with 2nd attempt to charge with the same setup was i failed to check the amount of battery chargé before i connected the generator, i do know the blue lights were on and not blinking and i had lights in the cabin shortly after initiating the generator. Puzzle IF i use both generators or repeat the single generator and see what happens, i did nor know to check the generator warning light you mentioned.

I’m headed in a different direction and wonder if the breaker setting on I assume your xantrex converter/inverter may be set too high for your generator. The factory setting for breaker rating on our xantrex is 25A, but this is too high for our Honda eu2200 generator. I usually set my breaker rating to 20A or less if charging from the generator. If I try to run the generator with the breaker rating at 25 A, you can hear a change in the sound of the generator as it overloads and stops charging and the overload red light on the generator will light up.

I have seen The blue lights, all on in the past, trailer only little over month old, charged batteries when they Werę 50%, tok over a month after Comp,etę Charging to get to 50%, charged them FIRST time with Honda 2200 single generator, took a couple of hours to Complete chargé. I failed to chęck the level of chargé before this attempt to chargé, will try again using both Honda generators linked for 30 amp chargé. Have not set up the app as we arę not planning to use the trailer for a month longer. Getting our battery info off the round display on the curb side wall over the bed. Even this gauge was not indicating charge level and appears to not be powered up.

Hull 1609, 2025 LE II, lithium with solar, and Yes used a grounding plug. Was successful FIRST time, will try again tomorrow, still learning The generator and trailer.

So, you have interior lights when the generator is connected, but no lights without the generator? If that's the case, I agree with @jd1923 that it sounds like your batteries are disconnected somehow. Could be a cable, cutoff switch, or 12v circuit breaker. More details needed.

Did you use a neutral grounding plug on your generator? Our EMS will usually but not always immediately block the generator from powering the trailer or charging the batteries. Not sure if your trailer has a built in EMS or not. If you provide a bit more info, such as hull number, battery type, solar present or not, the forum members might be able to give you more specific help. I hope you get this issue resolve quickly and it is something simple.

We arrived Sunday night and immediately noticed a familiar face in Gary from Colorado! We met Gary at Lost Dutchman last November. We met Lance, also from Colorado, and his Hessie, who quickly became friends with our Charley. Later John and Wendy and there are a few others here that I had not known from this forum. Steve and Tali had to run an overnight to CA for a Starlink repair and after they returned yesterday we spent some quality time with Mr. Steve by our fire ring! If it wasn't for great people, this Dome Rock area is more the Casita class! 🤣 Our first morning somebody's car alarm went off 3 times, the first time it was still dark out. Minor generator noise late last night and a man screaming his lungs out to get them to turn it off. And the constant whine of I-40 a half mile away. Yesterday we looked for future boondocking locations, and found a great lunch spot along the way, at the north end of Q just west of Hwy 95. I strongly recommend the Meatloaf Sandwich!

Given you did not work the winterizing, did they disconnect the batteries or do you have a cut-off switch for your batteries. No interior lights either? Hard to be sure from your description but it appears you have power connected to the generator and none when disconnected.

Have use my honda generator to chargé our batteries 2 times nów, today being The second Tim’e, disconnected from generator, went inside to verify they full charges, and no Lightning or Power to anything on The master control at The door. Went inside when i initialy starter generator and had Power at than time. My FIRST attempt about a month Ago , same routine and no problem. We had our trailer winterized when we picked it up SO no experience with it SO far other than using generator to keep batteries chargéd. Recommendations when to start looking.

Maybe we should start a thread on managing resources while boondocking. When we had AGM’s we did a lot of no hook up camping, mostly at National Parks, COE and FS areas, Harvest Hosts and of course Quartzsite. No 30a hookup meant fridge on propane, hot water on propane, boil water on propane stovetop for pour over coffee, etc. The only electrical load on the batteries was the furnace fan, lights and water pump. We seldom use the inverter, an occasional minute or two of microwave and maybe a blow dry after a shower. Keeping an eye on where the battery charge was happened frequently. If we weren’t back to near 100% by mid-afternoon the generator came out (happened at Glacier and Grand Teton, some dark cold days!). Our AGM’s lasted 5 years and got replaced because two were starting to leak. Now with Lithiums (just 300ah) we still camp the same when boondocking and rarely get down to 80% charge by morning. It’s a mistake to think that solar allows the same kind of camping off grid as with FHU. Mike

Discharge down to 10 volts on a 12V AGM battery (it appears your two 6v batteries are wired in series, making the two of them operate as one 12V battery) is well below 50% of capacity, which is not good. A lead/acid battery (like an AGM), even a "deep cycle" one, should not be discharged below about 50% of capacity. Said another way, a fully charged 400Ah AGM battery only gives you about 200 Ah of usable power before it begins to sustain damage. The usual charge range for a 12V AGM battery is a high of about 13V when full charged down to a low of about 11V when fully discharged. As Topgun2 has advised, the fact that your batteries read only 10V when fully discharged and 12V (each one at 6V) when fully charged suggests they have been damaged by discharge too deeply, too many times. Also, I suspect your AGM battery system was not designed to operate 120V appliances through the inverter for hours at a time. If you want to be able to run 120V appliances (like the TV) off the inverter for hours at a time without shore power or a generator, you need a very high Ah lithium battery bank. Lithium batteries provide much more usable capacity per Ah than do AGMs. And, you may also need a more powerful inverter. The conversion from AGM to lithium is neither cheap nor easy, but many on this forum have done it. Below is one starting point for that journey.

Well, plans change! After deciding this whole conversion project was above my pay grade, I spent some time talking with my local solar company reps about my system. I have run out of battery several times with my old AGM's when camping off grid where the sun was rarely seen. Rain and gray here in the PNW, especially in the shoulder seasons. For my current needs, the 400 amp/hr Victron will have more than 3 times the power available to me compared to my old AGM's. Maybe overkill. But looking to the future where I may be getting a compressor fridge (when my 3 way gives up the ghost) then things start to even out. As far as I know, this is the most power one can pack in to the Elite 1 while maintaining the OEM battery box and tray. I also changed my mind and am getting a Victron inverter/charger. Mostly for the better charging compatibility with the Victron batteries. We'll see how this all pans out. The components are expensive but I believe Victron makes a quality product with stellar representation. Pics will be forthcoming when this all gets completed for Elite 1 owners (and anyone else) who may be interested. Cheers, Dave

My battery box tray is the same as your on my 2015 Legacy 1 trailer, 14.25" X 14.25" X 11" I was ready to go with the Epoch battery but pivoted after consulting with a local solar company. I am now getting 2 of the Victron 200 amp/hr batteries. They fit beautifully in my tray, and together will give me 400 amp/hrs of battery power ( well, almost). These batteries have a remote BMS, so the room in the battery where the BMS is normally located can be used for more Lithium cells and/or the batteries can be comparatively smaller with more available energy than other brands. Not cheap by any means. The batteries are expensive and then you also have to purchase the BMS module separately. For me and my needs however, it was worth it. I also elected to have this outfit do the install for me. The whole project just grew way beyond my comfort zone for a DIY job. After seeing their part list for the job, I'm really glad I'm going this way. My hat is off to all you folks who took this on yourself. You saved yourself a pile of money! When completed, I'll post a review with pics. Cheers, Dave

If you have Michelins as several of us do, they are well capable of lasting to the long end of TopGun's range. That means covered as Patriot suggests. If you choose to cover, keep in mind that your trailer is not as tall or wide as most covers are made for. I unknowingly purchased an Adco cover and it was two sizes too large. If you have an OE2, the "box" of the trailer is only 18' X 7' and the height of the box is just over 7'. Shop around and you'll find the "Custom Oliver" trailer covers are quite $$$$. Nice, but expensive for sure. Considering Grand Kiddo's: If I had known they were SO much fun, I would of had them first! Enjoy them! GJ

Interesting crimp... somewhere along the way when I was moving most of the wires out of the battery box and installing (+) and (-) bus bars, I encountered an almost identical crimp... the lug actually rotated easily on the end of the wire! I have installed 2x Battle Borns in my son's van conversion, and I'm not a fan of the "upright tab" connectors. Bolting a big lug and fat wire to those tabs requires a bunch of additional space above the battery. Not sure how much vertical clearance your battery box has, but my 2018 Elite is pretty tight. The battery tray is smaller than in the Elite II as well... from memory something like 14" x 14.5" . The Epoch 420 mentioned above won't fit in the tray, and may or may not fit with the tray removed. I'm considering a single Epoch 300Ah, as you mentioned, replacing my current (2x) 6v 220Ah (in series) AGMs.

Hello kids. Over the past 3 years my Dometic RM 2454 eyebrow board was responding to a few tricks to get the fridge started; see previous posts in this thread. First, hold the "On" switch in for a few seconds. When that gave no joy, pull the panel out and unplug, then replug the connector. Finally, pull the panel out and shim the connector with a strip of paper towel. Once it started it never crapped out. Yesterday, it refused to respond to any of these. BUT....... I found the eyebrow and power boards are now manufactured at Dinosaur Electronics. Here is a link from a vendor that carries them, for the eyebrow board. You can find the replacement power board (Black Box outside) on the site easily. https://www.rvshop.com/Eyebrow-Board-Replacement-2-WAY-3-WAY-Dinosaur-Electronics-DE-ADJ_p_79109.html The Black Box Dometic boards should have the part number on the front of the box, in the smallest imagineable font. Mine is part number 385071201, and RVSHOP carries a Dinosaur board to replace it. The eyebrow board will supposedly will work with the OEM power board. I will order both in a few weeks and re-post. Just spent $4000 on my Jeep and F-250, tight right now. Jim PS: I am quite happy with my Oliver, but I will NEVER buy another RV without ordering a full set of boards that are proven to work. This will be a non-negotiable. This way, companies like Dometic can't stick you with garbage that breaks, with no repair parts available, so then it's "Whoopsie Poopsie, $2500 for a new fridge install!"

Problem solved! The exterior receptacle is not a GFCI out, but is downstream from the one under the dinette. Unplugging the refrigerator extension cord solved the problem. We’ve had worse rain than this before, but usually plug it into the power pedestal. This campground doesn’t have a 15A outlet in the box. I use two 25’ extension cords, and the juncture was underneath the trailer. But with the rain, it was half buried in wet sand. I took it apart, and cleaned and dried it, but apparently not enough, as it tripped the GFCI outlet immediately when I plugged it back in. So for now, I’m using one Bluetti to power the fry while the other is charging inside the trailer. I’ll swap as needed until I get things dried out. Thank you for all of the help and advice!

Could be a number of different things, but it wouldn’t have anything to do with the circuit breakers or park power. The fault will be at the GFIC outlet, or one of the downstream outlets fed by it. GFIC’s are not overcurrent devices, rather they detect minute circuit imbalances where either the hot wire or neutral wire is leaking current to ground. So one of the most common problems is moisture, usually in the outdoor outlet/box. Make sure the cover seal is good and dry it off as best you can. Another common cause is improperly wired devices, so make sure everything is unplugged. If that doesn't fix it, then disconnect the "load" side of the GFIC outlet and see if it’s still tripping. If so, then replace the GFIC. If it doesn’t trip with the load disconnected, the GFIC is okay and I’d go back to the outdoor outlet and really dry it well. Good luck!

A/C is typically a massive draw on power. but as you say, when charged it will start (w/o soft start). How long it can run on battery is another matter. Need a lot of battery (Amp hours) to run more constantly, or a sufficient generator. My hope would be to be able to run off battery for an hour or so off battery (and a day full of sun) before going to sleep. Some A/C units will trip a 3k inverter on fully charged batteries w/o a soft start. Soft start would also allow a smaller (<3k watt) generator to get A/C fired up. Many factors in those equations, thanks for sharing your experience.

When doing hook-ups or departures from camp, I regularly find myself in need of water pump pliers to tighten and loosen water lines. . . which means digging out the tool box to find them. So I decided to mount a dedicated pair in the outdoor garage where they will be close at hand when needed. After looking at various options for storing the pliers, I settled on a small leather tool pouch from Amazon. It was low profile, could be easily mounted on the wall, and it didn’t take up precious garage floor space. The pouch also had pockets for a small flashlight and pen, which also can also be elusive items when signing in after dark. The tool pouch had a belt clip that was removed, and I stretched one of the pockets to fit my LED penlight. The leather is easily stretched by soaking it in water for about 60 seconds and using a dowel or other cylindrical object to expand the pocket. The leather is quickly dried in an oven at 130 degrees to hold the new shape. I chose a 7” Knipex Plier Wrench for my kit because of its high quality. They aren’t cheap, but the Oliver is deserving, and they are a pleasure to use. There are many excellent choices available for pliers, flashlights and pens. I just used what I already had on hand. Some folks might also be interested in my handy tool for stashing and retrieving things from the unreachable depths of the garage. This is simply a sanded length of 1/2” x 3/4” moulding with an aluminum angle screwed onto one end as a hook to pull things out. Oh, and notice the spring to pull the garage door suspension cable out of the way so it doesn’t get pinched in the seal like mine does. Hope you find this useful! Cheers! Geoff

For reference: Our 2022 has 340W of solar and 630Ah of lithium (I mixed that up in the earlier post). We have the 3-way fridge instead of the compressor electric and we have the Dometic A/C with soft start. We run the fridge on 12v while driving. We camp on the east coast, usually without hookups, 3 seasons, up to 3 weeks at a time. We've never come close to depleting our batteries. I don't think we've even gotten down to 50%. The lowest I recall was 63% after a week in full shade with mostly rainy weather. With normal use - coffee maker, toaster oven, lights, fan, water pump, TV, furnace, charging devices, etc. - the solar usually gets us back to 100% SOC every day. The only caveat is air conditioner use. If we wanted to run the A/C for multiple hours we'd need to use our generator. In practice, in the summer we might run it for an hour or so before bed while watching TV. That might consume 10% SOC. If it's sunny the next day the solar tops us off. We carry a 2kW Honda generator but never use it. Probably should stop lugging it around...

@Mago I would not limit your search to only 2024 and 2025 trailers, if I were you. I would expand the search to 2022 and 2023. that have been lightly used. Just check to see what options they have on them. In my opinion, @Steph and Dud B are correct regarding the amount of battery power you will need when boondocking. Even a inverter generator will likely not be necessary, but could be an option for you. Try looking at the facebook "Oliver Travel Trailers For Sale" page. There is presently a good selection of newer models for sale there. Good luck in your search.

Never noticed that with my old Xantrex or I can’t remember. Sometimes I notice the low hum of the MP2 when bulk charging and/or fan noise but it doesn’t bother me. Still, so happy with MP2 and that I can run AC/camper without ever needing the generator, maybe I just ignore the noise. ;). The new Atmos AC and microwave is much quieter too, so my cabin overall is much easier on the ears.