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Thanks John. Just checked my 2018, #365, and it has the ground wire. 1st picture is with the looming on. 2nd with the looming pulled back. 3rd picture shows attachment to the ground block under the aft side dinette seat (foward of the battery box). I think I’ll check ground on the 120 for my hot water heater next!

I had the same problem seeing the ball with the Oliver front camera, especially in the shade. I have tried several things, colored masking tape, (because I had some), it worked but fades after a while. My latest technique has been to use a thin orange latex glove on the ball and one on the receiver. When the gloves almost touch on the monitor I take them off and finish the hook up. I use the gloves to cover the ball and receiver when not hooked up also. Easy to see and avoid getting grease on things. I keep a box of orange gloves around for general use also. As for avoiding finger injuries when locking down the hitch I only touch the clamping part with the handle of my rubber dead blow hammer. Another handy thing to have around.

Yes i did file a warranty claim to replace the new main box , directed to do so via Progressive. And no''I did not remove the Oliver installed hard wired unit. As for the reason i had to go through all of this BS was i would lose power and show error code E9 via the remote Monitor . Why I went with a portable EMS was it was recommended by a RV Tech '' his reason was the transfer switch was in line before the built in Progressive Surge Protector . And the cost of replacement of the transfer switch would exceed the cost of a portable EMS. I also agree that the remote EMS and its data displayed is better than lifting the bed up to monitor data. The two units like each other so far, they show the same data.

I keep coming back to this thread because being a full timer, I just don't see the need for bigger. Sure I could have bought that Airstream 27fb or the 27' Bigfoot, but then the ease and mobility that we have now, is gone. Our friend that we travel with sometimes has the 27' Bigfoot, and it is nice, but he just can't go where we can with ours because that extra width and length really cut down on the places that he can boondock. Plus he has to have that larger 3/4 ton truck to pull his with, that we just don't need. The only thing that we would change is adding a 7cubic ft fridge option and that's it. For us, having the ice chest in the front to hold our drinks works just fine and with a different box in the front, one of the AC/DC ice chests is something that we have thought about. So, longer & wider? No thanks! Then we would need 2 trailers, one for the rare occasion that would sit in storage mostly and then the Olli that we live in daily :) Reed

Thanks Bill! Right you were. There is no control box. No wonder I couldn’t find it. Sorry to take a while to reply- I moved residences, and we all know how that goes.

To keep from rehashing previously discussed info, please see this thread. I have bought and installed the Mopeka system and I can report that it works like a charm. I recommend it to anyone that wants another toy for their box.

Thanks for the comment Rumline. Yes, I am aware of the payload issues you mentioned. Thanks. My research indicates that the 2019 Ram 1500 payload range is between 1,700 and 2,300...with the realistic range between 1,700 and 1,900 loaded up with lots of options. Of course, one has to confirm the actual payload of the truck, as optioned, prior to closing the deal. The new tow limits exceed 12,000 pounds, but I can do with a bit less. Again have to confirm prior to closing the deal. I don't have kids, but I will probably take some light stream tackle and some light art supplies with me. The wife might take her camera when she does come along or even fly out or drive out to meet me. I plan to buy the eTorque, the Ram box, the Limited, and just about the whole nine yards. Since my daughter considers me a R....t, a B.d F....r, and unworthy of someone worth listening to AND my son has no R.....t for me and considers me a l...r...I'm free to spend their very substantial inheritance on traveling both stateside and overseas (six zeroes and increasing) now that I have disinherited them in my will. Call that W...e P.......e. (Hope this doesn't break forum rules...did my best) ================ I agree with Back of Beyond that a lot of trucks are running near their limits, based on my readings in a lot of forums. I will abandon buying an Oliver if I determine the Ram 1500 I buy is not up to the job, and instead pull the truck with a used diesel motorhome. I will take light exercise equipment with me, but would ideally take a full gym along. ================= I thought I might like to re-enact my youth, but I'm having too much fun being a senior citizen getting ready to throw the dough around.

As of Saturday Aug 25th, The blind spot monitor on the Ram will cover up to a 30 foot trailer and some say it is better than relying on tow mirrors. The 360 degree view is not available at this time if you option the tow mirrors or without the 12 inch monitor, and the 360 degree view is a sweet option I would really like to have. One can buy add-on tow mirror extenders and enjoy both options. The advanced safety group features are really nice, as well as the ram box cargo management system, and the air suspension option. Can't say enough about this truck's interior from the Laramie up...some are calling it the Mercedes Benz of the trucks. (I have a big advantage, don't really want to lose the clk for a Porsche, so I can get the truck and keep the clk) Looking at about $70k before tax and lic, and my local dealers in calif don't seem inclined to offer MSRP reductions at this time beyond special incentives.

We installed our shade last week. It took a couple of hours, we worked slowly. We are happy with the results. The box from ZARCOR was delivered less than 24 hours after we ordered. It was well packed with clear instructions. Everything was well protected with foam. Two boxes with new gasket material. We ordered the tinted window, they also have clear. This shows the shade and white handle. A black handle is all that is on their web site. If you call you can ask for a white one. The included instructions were very clear and easy to read. As instructed, we taped the outside frame with duct tape. Once the screws are out of the inside frame the only thing holding the window and outside frame on the door is the gasket material. I think masking tape would work just as well. There was no residue left when we took off the duct tape. I should have extended the tape onto the window and then taken both the outside frame and window out at the same time. I removed the 12 screws that are on the inside frame. Both frames and all screws are reused. Inside framed removed. At this point only the old gasket material holds the window in. I’m taking it out and some of the gasket comes with it. As I mentioned earlier, it would have been better to have tape on the window too and then remove both the outside frame and the window at the same time. The outside frame was stuck on the door with the old gasket material. I used a plastic squeegee to lift a corner, then it came off pretty quickly. Here we are putting the new gasket material in. It’s easier with multiple hands. It makes for a better installation if you can get the material into the grooves as evenly as possible. There are two gaskets to apply, one just inside the window opening for the window and one on the outside of the frame that seals the frame to the door. I’m setting the new glass onto the outside frame. The gloves are just to minimize finger prints. The one disappointment with the kit is that the new window is slightly smaller than the original. Maybe 1/8”. On the outside frame there are plastic pegs all around the window opening that should hold the glass securely. I tried to position the glass so that it was centered on the opening and then pressed it into the gasket material. This is where the actual installation pictures stop. We took the outside frame with the glass and put it into the window opening on the door. We thought we had done a great job until the weight of the window caused it to slide down so that it was setting on the bottom pegs leaving a very small gap at the top. We gently pulled the frame back off but some of the gasket material stuck to the door and some stuck to the frame. It was a small crisis. We got it off and back into a horizontal position. Carol reworked the gasket material that was pulled off and I fabricated a couple of very small shims to sit on the bottom two pegs to lift the window 1/16” or so. Once that was all done we put the frame and window back into the door. The shade attaches directly to the window with some heavy duty Velcro buttons. It is positioned over the window then pressed tight. The inside frame is reinstalled and that’s it. Inside with the shades open. They can be opened or closed with the door and the screen door shut. Shades closed. I think we will enjoy being able to look out the door window with the shades open. When the shades are closed you can’t see in at all. The old frosted glass was a little frustrating at times because in order to look outside you had to open the door. Mike

The problem with the first video, there are no trucks that pull doubles in this country, that look like that. That's a pure Ausie rig. The doubles you see here, like FEDX and UPS pull are a completely different deal. There are guys that can back doubles, and it's a special skill. I drove a semi for 12 years, pulling flatbeds and double drops, but I had it easy, we had day cabs, so you could look out the back window on a off side back. I had many times the we were hauling bridge beams or large box culverts and had to back in a mile or more. Fun times. There is one thing that is guaranteed, the more people watching, the worse your backing job is. Stan

I actually see it the other way around. The Truma is great with hookups since you can take as long of a shower as you want, provided you've got enough propane. And if you aren't going off pavement, you aren't as likely to experience its fragility. It's boondocking where the tradeoffs have to be weighed. Yes, it's more efficient with propane, but it's also more fragile, complicated and difficult to get repaired. A traditional water tank is dead simple and can be repaired most anywhere, or by yourself; is sturdier, and has less to go wrong. I'm on the fence whether the Truma was the right choice for us, though I don't necessarily regret getting it. But my early enthusiasm has definitely been tempered. I'll probably feel better about it once it's out of warranty and I can crack it open myself to make repairs. Right now, it's a mystery box and I hate that. And don't forget that with the water tank you get an extra 5(?) gallons of water storage, too.

We got back last weekend from a couple weeks in Tennessee and North Carolina. We're both quite satisfied with our choice of the tf130. It's really quiet and efficient. We camped in shade, but gained most of our power from a 100 amp solar panel that I moved around in the best four or five hours of sun. We supplied the rest with a short run of the generator in the morning. Paul likes the molded spaces for beer cans. Up by the freezer, it keeps the beers super cold. I'm figuring out the rest of the space. I love the slide out bin on the bottom. A lot less juggling of bulky items. The bottom door rail hold a quart of milk and another of half and half, plus other tall items. I had more than enough space for our refrigerated food. The freezer is small, but held several bags of vegetables, a quart size gel freezer pack, and a couple steaks. I think the fridge works best with a fairly full freezer, for some reason. With daytime highs in the low 80s, nights in the 60s, I could turn the fridge down to 5 or 6 instead of high, and still maintain 40 degrees or colder in the fridge. Sherry

Thanks'' I understand. A little more to the story, was after i had the 30amp service installed i noticed the shore tie plug did not seem to engage properly as one would want. So i recall the License Electrician who installed, we took the box apart and the fuse panel and discovered poor connections as well as the job required a ground bar. After that is when i discovered the regular loss of power going to the Oliver. I am sort of reluctant to recall the Electrician again but am not confident enough to by pass the surge protector. Jason recommended i un plug and replug both ends of the cable running to the monitor as there is history on this happening to others. Progressive said they would send out parts (new monitor and cable ) I will install and we will see where that goes. And the question on weather the monitor/ cable suspected failure could shut down the 30amp service is Yes'' as i have been told they need to talk to each other before 30 amp will be excepted.

If you decide to visit the North Dakota badlands, the south unit of TR National Park, and the Medora, ND area, there are a few options for camping. The National Park campsites were full in July when we were there. October should be better for finding an opening. Most of the National Park sites we saw in the South unit campground were shaded. By October the leaves should be down so the solar should work better. Avoid the RV city park in Medora. They were literally stacked slide-out against slide-out. We drove out of town to check out Sully Creek State Park. It was wonderful and I can’t imagine why more people weren’t there. Downside was no electricity or flush toilets, though they did have showers, water, and a dump station. Our Campsite was marked by a stake on the edge of a field with the bluffs in the background. I think it was site #8. Our nearest neighbors. There was some generator noise off in the distance. Our camper is the one in the far middle of the photo. Neighbors look closer that they actually were.

Hi everyone ~ Thanks so much for your feedback. Sorry I haven't replied earlier. I had checked the box that asked if I wanted to be notified of replies, but didn't receive any until Don's yesterday. We determined that the problem was with the campground, not our detector. We haven't had any trouble since. Happy to know about the fuses. Which fuse would it be? (photo attached). We bought our Oliver in 2016 – Hull #125.

I use the simple circuit tester to verify correct polarity. (Because I already had it) If somehow, the plug source was incorrectly wired, or has more than the required 120 volts, I don't believe you will get the correct indications. If I was to guess -excessive voltage will damage the tester. If it was wired incorrectly say 208/240 volts you will know it then. I use the progressive remote read out to verify voltages otherwise. I am as leery of high voltage as I am low voltage. RV park electric service design is not always as it should be...….. On longer trips, where I will be far away from home, my tool box expands - I'll carry a handy dandy - economical digital multi meter - a Harbor Freight special. But at some point , the service power - its correct or not - find another spot that is. Twice -I've run across ones that were not.

OUCH. That is where a crankcase breather hose should go. Please do not drive it any longer this way. I wonder why it is not leaking oil? Are you sure it was not removed very recently? Pull the plastic cover off and see what the rest of that system looks like. That is more than a little unreal, I wonder what the story is behind it’s being gone? You need to talk to the shop that worked on it last, they should have noted its absence, if not caused it! RE your cabin air filter: you MUST turn on the ignition and switch to Recirculate. This swings the blend door up and forward so you can reach the filter element. If forced open, the door will break where the actuator shaft enters, making it inoperative. This is fairly common, and not an easy or cheap fix. Mine is busted, and I need to pull the fan box out to see if I can repair it, or if I will have to change the entire $450 housing assembly. I have been moving the door manually from Recir to Normal by reaching in though the filter access opening. There are several threads about it at Ih8mud.com. There are a number of pissed off owners, it is a very stupid design. Read this.... there is a 20% “reported rate” of door breakage. ...https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/important-check-your-hvac-recirculate-door-and-answer-poll.1021239/ You have to wonder how many 200 busted doors out there are as yet undiscovered. I hope yours is OK. Good luck, John Davies Spokane WA

The box slides off the mounting "sliding rack" to lighten it significantly. OTH it is still a two man operation, and both must be pretty fit. It is not necessarily a good match for your average "mature" Oliver owner. No offense intended to anyone here - I include myself in that category. I want to see video of one hopping down a corrugated freeway at 75 mph. I do like the idea of enclosed hard-sided storage for bikes tho. But not for $3000. John Davies 'Spokane WA

Looks cool in the photos, but I can't help but think of how difficult it would be to get a 230lb box onto a hitch receiver that you can't see.

As you know, using an inverter takes our on board 12 VDC, changes it to 120 VAC, into which a wall brick is plugged to convert it back to 12 VDC. As is obvious, this is a very inefficient way to use a 12 VDC piece of equipment. The 12 VDC plugs for our machines were over $50.00 each and we needed two. I solved that problem by making my own. The problem was that the wall converters had a proprietary plug that I could not find/buy. I went down to my local respiratory care place and asked if they had any old nonworking power supply's. She brought a box of them out and let me take two for free. I cut the cords off, put a $3.00 12 VDC male plug on the end and voilà, a (relatively) free power cord.

It’s very important to file a service request online, under the CONTACT/ SERVICE tab at the top of every page. This alerts Jason Essary and also keeps a complete paper trail of the issue and whether it has been solved, or not. I just send a request asking Jason to read this entire page, and issue two Service Bulletins: Natures Head bulletin, describing the fan failure problem and the procedure for installing either the recommended 2.5 amp fuse, or the acceptable 3 amp one. Fuse Box bulletin, describing how the fuse socket “ears” are weak and may loosen their grip if the fuse is inserted at a slight angle or wiggled, causing intermittent or no connection. Plus the method to retension them by squeezing with insulated mini needle nosed pliers. If you have been affected by the NH fuse problem, or for issues with other fused circuits, please alert the factory in writing. Phone calls can go astray. Thanks, John Davies Spokane WA

I used 1/8" hardware cloth on the inside of the vents on our first Oliver. Attached it with hot glue. Worked great, never had any mud daubers or the such. We've had our second Oliver for over 4 years now, still haven't gotten around to installing some on it. OTOH I've not had any problems so it keeps slipping my mind. Anyway, you can buy the hardware cloth at any big box store and cut it to fit. It's probably cheaper and easier than trying to find something pre-made, if it even exists.

The dome is the antenna. It’s about 5” in diameter I guess. I noticed that they have a different version now on their website that’s a bit lower profile. The 4 small antennae that come with the router are maybe 4” or 5” tall. I’d have to find the box to be sure. The thing forward of the dome, or actually rearward, is our rear view camera. It’s a wired system from RVS. We really like it. We haven’t used the outside Wi-Fi feature yet, possibly because I just figured out it existed last week. I connected it to our Wi-Fi here at home just to see how it works. Like you I’m not sure how much we’ll use it on the road.

On the start of a two month fly fishing trip in Idaho I stopped for gas at a Pilot gas station on Interstate 70 about 40 miles east of Kansas City. Sure enough I spied another Oliver! It was hull number 324 and they were from Chapel Hill, NC - just down the street from near where I live close to Asheville, NC. They were headed to Jefferson City, MO (driving East while I was driving West) in order to add to the goal of visiting all the State Capitals. In addition, the owner told me that earlier in the day they had met another Oliver owner - Greg & Terresa from Madison, WI that I had camped right next to at this year's Owners rally. Small world that we live in! Bill P.s. pic is from Victorian Acres, Nebraska City, NE - nice campground right off HWY 2. With temps in the 90's a WalMart parking lot didn't seem to be a very good idea without a generator!

We are long retired and have no experience with owning a travel trailer. After much thought and a pleasant visit to see David and Jane Droll's Oliver, we are now considering an Oliver and Ford F150 shortbed (because a shortbed is the only vehicle that will fit into our garage). The vehicle has a backup assist feature which requires one to place a decal horizontally on the trailer tongue in order for the camera to calibrate and follow the trailer's movement. I think this precludes getting the basket for the generator, unless the sticker/decal can be placed vertically on the basket's front. Does anyone know if this would work?