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So, I had this on my to-do list since Mike started this thread... What a difference in two hulls of the same era. Maybe the junction box on hull #135 took some water at some point. You can certainly see corrosion in Mike's pictures. Or maybe Mike got the bad installer on this one, right after the guy messed up something else on hull #113! Inside our junction box it's just perfect, clean as can be, everything tight! I didn't touch a thing, just replaced the cover, and for me this is not an annual inspection item.

I've never purchased a portable generator. Our Bigfoot Class-C had a 4K Onan which I rebuilt after we purchased it (cleaned sludge out, new carb, oil, filters and plug). We used it to recharge 2 lead acid batteries and/or run the A/C in the afternoons. Later I added 400W solar, 1800W inverter and 3x105 Ah AGMs and after that I only ran the Onan every other months to keep it in running shape. Original owners ran it 660 hours, we added about 30 hours on the clock. This is my full generator experience. I can't stand having to hear the generators of other campers (or the noise of A/C units running)! Would it not be crazy to carry or run a generator with 900 Ah LiFePO4, 720W solar and a 50A DC-to-DC charger? Our Oliver is camped now on Thumb Butte Road above Prescott right now and since Friday afternoon. It got up to 90 on Friday and highs of 85F since (quite a heat spell, cooling off next week). Ran the Furrion Chill Cube A/C 2-3 hours per day. 320W rooftop solar working, no obstructions, sunny ALL day... OMG, 4 days and 3 nights and we're down to 83% SOC! 🤣 We could camp here for a long, long time... My bet is that if Bob upgrades to 600 Ah, with their style of moving every few days with DC-DC charging, they will only have to consider #2 on his list! 😎

Two things I don't want. The Oliver bathroom is the most comfortable bathroom we've had in an RV. One exception: I wish the sink/vanity top came out further so that I could actually get my face over the sink (on my mod list). Sitting on the can is truly roomy! Our first RV was a Fleetwood Discovery Class-A. I had to have my right leg out in the hallway to take care of business. OMG, on a WIDE 39-ft Class A! 🤣 Now that we're comfortable in a 7-ft wide trailer, without slides, I would never again want to tow an 8-ft box. That's what this new entry is, just an 8-ft BOX. Sorry, I've towed too many. They take wind and they're awkward in lane changes and on backroads. You feel every semi-truck passing and need towing mirrors on the TV. Bottom-line, one will not replace our Oliver! I tow the Oliver like I'm not towing! IMO, one thing OTT could-a/should-a done from the start was to make the hull only a few inches longer, to allow room for two 80x30" mattresses without the radiused rear corners! For me at 6'2" this would add significant comfort in a minor change. They guy that sold us our Oliver is 6'5" go figure!

Update: we've picked up our trailer, and - with the Anderson hitch set with top bolt in second bolt hole from top, the tailgate does not hit the hitch. Not even close to the aluminum box, even with the SeaBiscuit box added. Andersen setup is great, as is the SB box and "moose" chain hanger.

I purchased my Oliver in 2022 with the upgraded Bulldog 2 5/16 coupler and have no regrets. I also use this collar with a slightly different ABUS lock. EDIT: I will also say that I use this coupler lock when I am hitched (visiting somewhere, for instance) as security. AND on top of that, as I like to boondock, I use the Fort Knox Locks box when I am not hitched, along with the collar lock. It might seem like a lot, but I worry a lot less with this setup. https://ftknoxlocks.com/shop/ols/products/bulldog-lock I'm sorry to hear about the issues with Bulldog. Hopefully they will straighten out and pull through.

We do not have the king setup, but we did replace EVERY cushion in our Oliver! Also hated a king topper we had at home years ago. We'd sink into the foam making us sleep HOT! We now use Brooklyn Bedding at home and the Oliver. They manufacture in the Phoenix West Valley and have every RV mattress size imaginable. They roll up and box their mattresses and ship everywhere. If you're ever down here, they have several store locations across The Valley. RV Mattresses by Brooklyn Bedding They have new models this year, with hybrid (foam/coil) models in RV sizes. We purchased two 30x75" foam beds 2 1/2 years ago for our twin bed setup. We went with 12" mattresses based on the fact that the taller the mattress the softer the feel (you can see that in their charts). The 12" mattresses are heavy, but Chris is able to lift them/stand them sideways to work the sheets. I'd prefer a shorter/lighter mattress for the Oliver, but they might be too firm. Time to take care of our older bodies! We had to replace the dinette cushions too. The original cushions were 4" and we made ours 5" tall. We had these custom upholstered at a local shop with higher quality foam for $500 OTD. Boy, the OEM ones were ugly, and my bony butt doesn't hit the hard fiberglass right through the cushions anymore! 😎

There is no "integrated generator" as such that comes with the trailer. Jason is referring to an owner supplied generator that has been modified so as to be able to be integrated into the control system of their new EcoFlow control panel. Everything in the coach can be controlled from the touch screen as I understand it.

I know this is an old thread, but figured I’d add onto a thread that is close to my topic rather than start a new one. We’ve tried a couple of mattress toppers to make the “king” bed in the LE2 a little more comfortable for our old backs and stiff joints. Wr started with the basic 3” “memory foam” topper from Walmart that has no cover. It was just OK - but lacking a cover it tore easily and basically ended up in several pieces and had to be tossed. Next was the roughly 2-1/2 inch memory foam topper from IKEA that has a thick cotton/poly cover on both sides. The cover protects the foam and keeps it from getting wedged between the gaps between the cushions. BOTH memory foam toppers are incredibly heavy! Also too heavy for one person to carry by themselves. Both come compressed (Walmart - folded and strapped into a box about 2 feet square, IKEA - rolled in a dang heavy cylinder wrapped in heavy plastic. Between several spills - mostly cats launching morning coffee or tea onto the bed - the covers on the IKEA pad were looking pretty gross. They ARE removable and washable IF you have a super high capacity washer and about two hours to dry it. Getting the foam zipped back into the cover is fun to watch, but not impossible. When a window leak left us with a soggy bed, we decided to replace the topper. Off to IKEA. (Remind me never to go there again. I got my 10,000 steps that day.) We remembered that the memory foam topper we got the first time wasn’t quite the top of the line, so we figured “Oh boy! Upgrade!” but once we got there (and there wasn’t an employee to be found) we discovered they no longer have the topper we have - or the better one. Bummer. We chose a 2-3/4” standard (not memory) foam pad with similar padded cover. A bit lighter than the memory foam - but still just as expensive. $299 plus tax. We lugged it to the truck, unpacked it and heaved it on. Put on our sheets, and instantly - hated it. It bunches up. Pulls away from the sides, and leaves a mound between us. To be fair, we gave it two weeks to let it - and us - “adjust”. Today - we decided it’s not gonna work. We took it off, slid it back in the bag, and rolled it up. We dried out our previous IKEA memory foam mattress topper and I think we’re back to being mostly happy. When I get ambitious, I’ll pull the covers off and see if I can at least lighten the coffee stains. For those curious - the current IKEA product that gets our 1-star rating is the “Norrsele king très Grand Deux Places”. (If anybody wants it after I dissed it so thoroughly, let me know - I’ll make you a helluva deal.)

The following was copied from a former post and provided herein to better consolidate progressive modifications to the Savana in regards to the opening statement: “Ultimately, two storage boxes were acquired to safely stow much of the cargo; specifically, underbody tool boxes.” Cargo Securement Assurance/General Discussion Posted December 14, 2024 When towing with a truck, the majority of ‘stuff’ brought along on a camping trip or road adventure is conveniently stowed within the various holds of the Oliver and bed of the TV. However, even though my former crew cab Silverado 1500 had a storage box under the rear seat, it was mostly used to accommodate service tools and supplies for the truck and thus, found myself utilizing the rear floorboards and seat as additional cargo space when traveling. There’s peace of mind knowing cargo carried in the bed of a truck is adequately secured, not so much for that behind the front seats! All one needs is something going on from behind when something tragic is happening up front, no bueno! We’re required to wear seatbelts for good reason, proper securement of vehicle interior cargo should be of equal importance. I would be interested in learning how owners with trucks/SUVs safely carry their cargo within. My awareness of cargo securement was heightened recently with acquisition of a converted cargo work van as my TV; specifics are detailed in a forum post last October under ‘Towing an Oliver’ and titled ‘2019 GMC Savana 2500 Cargo Van’, if interested. Unlike service utility work vans that generally have a partition or cargo net, along with containment shelves and boxes, to secure cargo and ensure personal safety; conversion and passenger vans are more designed for ‘people’ cargo. In the aforementioned forum post, I addressed cargo containment, but cargo securement was still under consideration. Here is what I did to address the subject matter: Maiden voyage to Texas Oliver Rally, Inks Lake SP; cargo contained, but not secured! DC CARGO E-Track system components were obtained via online purchases from Tractor Supply. Each of the Buyers Products boxes were fitted with six of these brackets, three at the top of each end. A 1/4” x 8” aluminum backing plate was used to attach and strengthen these mounts. Backing plate cut to size, holes drilled and tapped for mounting bolts. Containment boxes prepped for backing plate and E-Track bracket installation. Super Sliders affixed to bottom of containment boxes for ease of handling on interior carpet. Three E-Tract rails fastened to deck to accommodate securement straps. Aluminum plate at floor level is runway for folded e-bikes. This box was slid rearward once back box was removed for storage at COW Barn. It primarily contains items typically kept in the TV with additional storage space, as needed, a trunk per se. Ratchet straps best used for non-towing vehicle use. Box securement once e-bikes are deployed. Wider Cam straps best used for e-bikes and subsequent box securement when traveling. Rear box is for camping ‘stuff’, forward as a trunk and more ‘stuff’. Driver’s side box securement using ratchet straps. View of e-bikes ready for ‘takeoff’ on runway! Cam strap securing e-bike. Ratchet straps for spare propane tank, generator and other needs. Items too long for the containment boxes are stowed behind at side panel. Oliver-mounted hoist used to transfer box at storage facility. TV moved forward to enable box positioning. Cam straps used for the lift. Containment box lowered onto platform cart. Liking the modular containment storage.

I believe the electrical code is that live feeds have to terminate in a grounded electrical box. I think just a simple twist connector cap is fine, as long as it’s in a box and not flapping in the breeze. RV/automotive code might be different, if there is one.

Hey Gang, It's past time to retire the Penguin AC for something quieter and more suited to our eventual upgrade to a 600ah Lithium system. I know we have owners with the Truma, Houghton, and dometic freshjet 3 series. (Thanks to Roadlotus for her write up on the FJ3) I am leaning toward the new Dometic Freshjet 4 or 5 series. Reasons include: A) Quieter than the penguin (what isn't) B) would be easy to fit into the existing structure C) Service almost anywhere D) Has iphone app control as well as the Air Distribution Box control and E) Should be energy efficient enough to allow a few hours operation on a 600 ah system. I was considering the Furrion Chillcube but the possibility of condensate overrunning the pan down the side of the trailer is a deal killer. Just wanted to ask what I might not be considering on the above list OR if there is an outlier that is not on my Radar. TIY, Scotty

We are now over 4,000 miles traveling this spring/summer in our Elite 1. We love this camper and are having a great time. So, we now know why our induction stove top is inoperable when we are boondocking w/o using a generator…it is not wired through the inverter. We have been in contact with Tech support and the Service dept. Service spoke with the Design and also Production. 1. Design said the stove top was run through the inverter because it would drain the batteries after 90 min of use. (We don’t cook that way when boondocking, or even when we are hooked to shore power) 2. Production said they would not support Oliver paying for or sharing the cost of rewiring because it is functioning as designed. I would have to pay out of pocket. They were unsure what that would do to the warranty. (To us, we believe this is a design issue that needs correcting) 3. The cost to have Oliver rewire to the existing 2000w inverter is $600+. 4. The cost to have Oliver rewire and add a 3000w inverter is just under $2500. I have been in the manufacturing world before I retired and I understand the response, they are not the decision makers. I know that I need to get to the decision maker level. I have contacted the sales person at B&B RV in Denver who is advocating on our behalf to his Rep at Oliver. I’m waiting on a call from that person. I have been told, but haven’t verified, that the 2027 Elite I units are wired to the inverter and this issue was a topic of discussion. However, the rep had not heard yet about our unit. I hope to verify that info soon. They are advertising a 2 burner induction stovetop in the 2027 Elite I. I would be surprised if that is actually what is in the 2027 units, but I could be wrong. So the story continues. I’m disappointed so far that 1) we were told the induction stovetop would work on battery and it doesn’t. 2) the response is very slow and I have to initiate a lot of contact to keep the ball rolling. 3) The design didn’t keep the boondocking campers in mind yet the marketing very obviously did (Check out the Oliver website). 4) Oliver, so far, expects us to pay for an “upgrade” in order to address this issue. I am asking for a 3000w inverter and wiring. I will provide my time and cost to travel to the factory and wait while they fix this (and a couple of other minor issues). We will see what Happens and I’ll keep you all informed. Thanks again for all your insights and information. Lamar

I had the same issue with my Honda 2000 generator blowing. Like @Tom and Doreen said you can change the setting on your Xantrex to lower the draw. Here is a link to the generator topic with instructions on how to adjust the setting.

I cut two 2” holes in the battery box for venting, no fan. I also plugged the vents in the door and insulated with two layers of Reflectix. Used 3M heavy duty spray adhesive, it’s been holding well for 5 years. I did the same on the Basement door. I measure battery compartment temps with my Victron BMV712 monitor, and also a remote temp sensor that I move around in the basement depending on ambient temps. I have not needed to open the battery door, the small vents keep the battery box relatively cool in Summer, warm in Winter. I have camped in 100+ temps and below 10F for several consecutive nights with no problem.

Owners: Mike and Carol’s “Battery Box Separation” thread well addresses the battery box structural securement to the frame and hull. My intent of this post is to re-look at the battery tay and straps and their securement. Despite our OEM straps being VERY tight, twice I found one of them had gone slack and come loose from the tray hook hole. Not good. I am starting this separate thread to focus on how to ensure that our OEM tray and batteries “stay put”. So basically, I would like to learn more about how the tray is mounted and then how to super contain our batteries in the tray. I would very much appreciate your sharing your thoughts on how the battery box embed plate and straps do their job. Some questions follow: · How is the battery box embed plate attached to the structural member below? · What’s you guess as to the dimensions of the embed plate? · Are all battery sliding tray fasteners buck-stopped by the embed plate? · I assume that the embed plate is aluminum. Can it be tapped for additional hold-down bolts. If yes, what bolt length will work best? · Can you share your DIY solution? GJ PS: As far as the tray slide coming open, I like Horace's (Hull 93 Maverick) Dec 17, 2020 idea. A couple of these would increase security and would prevent movement should the slide fail. My upgrades to his idea would be to use a Riv-Nut in place of the nut and washer. Maybe also pop rivet the aluminum angle to the tray sheet metal. Combined, less parts to get lost when doing battery checks and service. Thanks GJ

Is the below search info below not correct? I am thinking you would set the Xantrex to only input 15 amps from shore power or generator then it would kick in and provide the next 10 amps or so with a 3000 watt inverter? How would the Xantrex know the difference between shore power and generator? Yes, Xantrex has a feature similar to Victron's Power Assist. Xantrex Freedom SW inverters and chargers include a "Generator Support Mode" that enables the unit to assist a generator when AC loads exceed its capacity. This functionality allows the inverter/charger to provide additional power from the batteries to supplement the generator, similar to how Victron's Power Assist uses battery power to supplement a limited input. Here's a more detailed explanation: Victron's Power Assist: This feature allows you to adjust the input current to a level lower than the output power without affecting output power. It allows the inverter/charger to use battery power to supplement a limited input like shore power or a generator. Xantrex's Generator Support Mode: This mode is specifically designed for RVs and boats. When using a generator, it allows the inverter/charger to draw power from the batteries to assist the generator when AC loads exceed its capacity. Key Difference: While both achieve the same goal of supplementing a limited power source, Xantrex's Generator Support Mode is more focused on generators and RV applications, whereas Victron's Power Assist can be used with various power sources.

As far as I can tell, I’ve made the first automatic leveling system for the Oliver’s Barker stabilizing jacks! Maybe even the first 3-jack leveling system on a travel trailer! It’s simple to operate, safe, and works great! I built the leveling system as a novelty for my own entertainment, so I’m only posting it as a interest item not a recommended project. In reality, manually leveling with the electric jacks is already easy, particularly with a LevelMate, so automatic leveling isn’t really needed. There are even warnings that the jacks are stabilizers, not to be used for leveling. However, I believe the warnings are more about liability than capability, as long as the jacks are used within reasonable limits. I'd been thinking about an auto-leveling project for a long time, but was deterred by the thought of modifying the jacks with fiddly proximity sensors or revolution counters as used in conventional leveling systems. I didn't want to alter the jacks for a DIY project that might not even work. But then it dawned on me. The only time I really needed to know the position of the jacks, is when retracting them to their parked position. I wasn’t interested in returning the tongue jack to the truck hitch hight like some systems offer. So this led to a revelation that automatic leveling could be done with nothing more than current sensors mounted in a control box rather than on the jacks themselves. This was only possible because of the Barker jack’s mechanical clutch. When the jack reaches the end of its travel, the clutch activates with a distinct clack-clack sound. It was likely that clutch engagement would produce a unique current signature that could be used to detect when the jack is fully retracted. A plan was developing, but I needed actual amperage values for proof of concept. Fortunately I had a data logging ammeter, and the chart below illustrates the results for one of rear jacks starting from its fully retracted parked position. The jack was extended through free air until it touched ground and began picking up load, maxing out when the wheel lifted off the ground. Then it was retracted to the parked position until the clutch actuated: I didn’t include the tongue jack chart because it's far less dynamic — it's always under load, and the clutch doesn't normally actuate during leveling. The clutch only comes into play after trailer is hooked up to the TV and the tongue is manually retracted. The amperage results confirmed that current sensors could work, and beyond detecting the parked position, they could also be used to distinguish the different leveling phases: rear jack extension until firm ground contact for stabilizing, and then transition to "roll" leveling if needed. Completion of the rear jack phase could then trigger the tongue jack phase to handle "pitch" leveling. The amperage chart became the basis for the circuit and software design. No proximity sensors. No revolution counting. No permanent modifications — just two wires to each jack, a component box, and a control board. Sounds easy, but this was only just the start of a long process to perfect the system. I hope someone finds this interesting! Cheers! Geoff

We do the clean-up each time we break camp. (Though around the cat little box - every time we attend to it.) We have a carpet runner - that goes from the bathroom door to under the edge of the (king) bed and covers the width of the “linoleum”. I shake it out to get rid of the loose dirt, and we wash it about once a month or so. Our biggest issue is cat hair - which seems to be magnetically attracted to the upholstery. It’s not a big issue for the furnace return register as we rarely use it. We go through the sticky “lint rollers” at a pretty good rate. We did inherit one of those large outdoor rugs/mats that we use if we’re going to be in one place for more than a few days. Out West, we found it likes to blow away. We found it two or three camp sites downwind once.

We only recently upgraded our springs and we’ve been at 50psi in our tires for many years. I think the heavy AGMs and many miles is at the root of this issue. There are a number of rivets all around the box that were all popped/damaged/pulled out. It doesn’t seem that that could happen all at once, but probably happened over time and miles. Our lithium batteries, installed 4 years ago, are 1/3 to 1/4 the weight of the AGMs. The Oliver response to my trouble ticket was to check and send pictures of the brace inside the trailer. I did and the response was that I could probably use a good adhesive to repair it since the brace holding up the box looked good. I didn’t like that answer so I asked to be sent over to service for some advice. Mike S in service said they use rivets to repair and also inspect the support bracket. I’m debating whether to try this myself or just make a trip to TN. Unlike Galway Girl, my bracket only has one bolt and it is in an adjustable slot. Other side: It’s interesting that the box is leaning out from the trailer and the bolt is at the bottom of the slot. When I pull the battery tray out, the box moves out more but every so slightly, less than 1/16”. I would think that the sag would be the other way around, leaning into the trailer since the weight is over the support more than 99% of the time.

A thread on "cracks" at and/or near the battery box was posted a number of years ago. But, as I recall, these cracks were generally in the exterior hull right at the corners of the battery box. Have you looked at the "support post" that is between the hulls directly under the battery box (approximately in the bottom center of the box)? Bill

One of the first things that I did after I bought my Winnie Minnie back in 2020 was to install a rear view camera. After doing some research, I chose the Haloview MC7108 Wireless RV Camera with 7'' Monitor. I was not disappointed. It had excellent resolution and the image on the screen had brilliant color. Fast forward a few years and I bought the Oliver. Although nearly everything about the Oliver was an upgrade, IMHO the Furrion rear view camera was certainly not. First, the image on the tiny 4” monitor was so small that I could hardly make out any detail. Even worse, the image brightness was so poor, if I had my sunglasses on I couldn’t see anything but a blank screen (yes, I tried adjusting the brightness and contrast). So I finally scrapped the infuriating Furrion and replaced it with another Haloview MC7108. I am very happy with the replacement. Below are the details of my installation. In making modifications to the Oliver, my number one rule is to try to avoid drilling any additional holes in the fiberglass. With that in mind, I also purchased the Yinettech Camera Bracket Adapter Kit for Furrion. The steel adapter plate is made to screw onto the Furrion “shark fin”. The kit also included a Pig Tail Plug Adapter since the plug on the Furrion camera is not the same type as the one on the Haloview. It turns out that the Haloview camera is much heavier than the Furrion. So I was concerned that the plastic “shark fin” might not hold up over time, especially considering my lengthy travels and the state of some of our roads. Also, the Haloview camera comes with a rather long cable which won’t fit inside the “shark fin”. Rather than take a chance on using the “shark fin”, cut the cable and make new connections, I chose to mount the camera on top of a Carlon PVC Type 2FSE electrical box. This provided plenty of room for the long Haloview cable and the Yinettech plug adapter. So the wiring was essentially just plug and play. When I removed the “shark fin” gasket from the Ollie I noticed that the area underneath it had been filled with caulk and this was raised above the fiberglass. I decided not to disturb the caulk around the opening for the cable since it was in good condition. Instead, I cut an opening into the bottom of the PVC box to accommodate the raised area and thereby allow the box to sit flat on the fiberglass. I cut off the mounting feet on the box and using the Furrion gasket as a template, drilled holes to match the existing ones in the fiberglass. Since the PVC box was grey, I sanded down the exterior, wiped it down with acetone and then applied several coats of Krylon Fusion All-In-One Gloss White spray paint and primer. This paint is formulated to bond well to plastics like PVC. A weatherproof cover plate was treated similarly and painted. Coincidentally, the rubber gasket that comes with the camera also fits nicely inside the conduit opening. Adding a PVC conduit adapter holds the gasket firmly in place. In order to keep water out, I overlapped butyl tape all around the bottom edges of the PVC box, covering the screw holes. I then secured the box to the fiberglass using the original screws that were used with the “shark fin”. Next, I used Geocel ProFlex RV white sealant around the exterior edges of the box, the top cover plate and the bracket supporting the camera. Screw heads on the cover plate were sealed with the GeoCel and screw heads on the camera bracket were sealed with black Dicor. Finally, I used two cable ties to form a drip loop on the cable to keep water out and used a gasket cutter to cut a hole in a rubber stopper to make an additional seal for the cable. The Haloview kit comes with two nice options for mounting the monitor on the dash. One is a U-shaped bracket that can be secured to the dash with screws. I chose the other which is the center mount bracket. It is simply attached to the dash with 3M tape but is very secure. I am extremely happy with the addition of my new rear view camera system. I think the resolution and color of the Haloview system are exceptional. There are also a lot of extra features on the Haloview system that you will not find on the Furrion.

Have an elite1 with just a charger. House power cord came disconnected and drained AGM batter totally dead. Was able to recharge it with a commercial charger and now holds 12.5 volts but, I have no power for 12 volts items. I checked the power coming in from the battery and I get power to the bus bar and after that, I'm lost to where to trace for the lost of power. The charger is working because everything is working when useing 115 volts. Can anyone recommend where I should be looking for somekind of breaker I can't seem to find. No power going to the 12v fuse box either. Appreciate any help here....

Hello, I am a new Ollie owner, Hull number 530, and I’m a low tech user who needs help! Where can I get information on purchasing the factory front mounted storage box I’ve seen and heard about? Secondly, what is my first step in troubleshooting low water pressure coming from my pump? Thank you. Pete

All though my refrigerator did not come unplugged, I proactively replaced my refrigerator plug after someone else reported that their refrigerator came unplugged. This is the type of plug I used and it has worked for 6 or 7 years. I don’t remember, but I may have also used a tie wrap. John Davies replaced his outlet for different reasons and this will take you to his mod. https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/6722-how-to-replace-the-120-vac-refrigerator-outlet-under-the-galley-sink-water-lines-with-a-waterproof-junction-box/?srsltid=AfmBOop_r6SWUqYp2fvGVz5cXJio0oNzeQnuFWMKZobs6ISEKIy-36a7 Mossey

Where the fridge plugs into a standard 15 amp duplex receptacle sure, but not where the battery charger plugs into the back of the AC breaker box. Thats not a standard receptacle. Anyway, if I’m cutting plugs off, I’m gonna hard wire it.