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As a general rule, any tool that does multiple things or sizes doesn’t do any of them well and adjustable wrench’s have a place, but it’s not for zerk fittings. And that also applies to me, I can break any thing. So my advice and using @Ronbrink information is to go to an auto parts store and see what they have as far as zerk fittings go. I seem to remember that the NAPA store I frequent, has variety packs that have different styles like straight, 45° and 90° and maybe different sizes. Pickup several types and sizes and also check for box end wrenches that fit while you have the zerks in hand. And check their return policy so you can return the wrong ones. Also try some penetrating oil on the zerk threads. Mossey

Q1 - A word of caution, my 2020 OLEll had two different thread size zerks; specifically 1/4-28 and M6x1mm. Other than a couple of 90° at EZ-Flex top, I choose to replace the stock straight ones with 45° angle zerks to ease servicing. I ordered mine from Grainger’s. Q2 - Turn counter clockwise (left) to loosen, clockwise (right) to tighten. Q3 - An adjustable wrench will have too much play and you will end up rounding the bolt head. Use the appropriate box end wrench, based on the thread type as to whether a Standard or Metric wrench is needed. Likewise a proper socket may suffice, but I like being able to see the zerk when removing.

From the Mulitplus manual: "Automatic and uninterruptible switching In the event of a supply failure or when the generating set is switched off, the MultiPlus will switch over to inverter operation and take over the supply of the connected devices. This is done so quickly that operation of computers and other electronic devices is not disturbed (Uninterruptible Power Supply or UPS functionality). This makes the MultiPlus highly suitable as an emergency power system in industrial and telecommunication applications." The ability for the inverter to choose between an AC source or DC battery power is what I meant by internal ATS and ALL Victron 3KW inverter/chargers (and greater models) have this functionality. They all also have Power Assist, which is not only internal switching but smart partial switching when shore power is lacking in covering the full load, it pulls what's necessary from the battery bank. Another way to word this is these more capable inverters do not require an external switch, like the Xantrex PROwatt SW (see pic1) or the KISAE TS20 that some of us have added to switch the air conditioning between AC/DC. The common usage of the term ATS in a RV is the switching between generator and shore power, like the PD5100 (see pic2) installed in our Olivers. The Quattro can switch AC/DC uninterruptable as the Multiplus and ALSO has the capability to switch between 2 AC sources like the PD5100, hence the PD could be eliminated if installing a Quattro. I thought about this for about a second, but it's more expensive and I'm not running a generator anyway with a 3KW inverter and 600AH in new LiFePO4 batteries. I had a PD5100 fry in our Bigfoot RV that I replaced, but if it does so in the Oliver with this upgrade we'll just run on the inverter. It's funny in the video, he used the name Multiplus all through the video and in his last sentence he said "Quattro." The 3KW Multiplus, MPII, Quattro, and other high-end models, all have a 50A line1 output. In my hull the Xantrex PROwatt SW is wired to all AC circuits but the air conditioner. The purpose of the KISAE TS20 is to add another ATS for the air. When the Multiplus is installed, given 50A output for a 30A panel, it will be wired to all loads on the panel, including the air conditioner, and no need for external switches like the Xantrex PROwatt SW and KISEA TS20! Why not?

It would be easier to not what to stream if we could just cast or view downloaded content via HDMI connection but that is another thread. It is nice how small it is. Packs up easily. I may need to invest in your packing solution. Right now I just put it back in the box it came in.

The PD5100 ATS switches between two shore power sources (streetside or front receptacle intended for a generator). If the ATS goes bad, burns on the wrong side, you could have no power at all. It's likely not this device. It is the EMS that has the remote switch with status and error code reader. See my first picture. The ATS is on left and EMS on the right. It would be difficult to ascertain which unit a noise would be coming from, being side-by-side in the same cabinet. Your setup may look different, since on our older hull OTT did not install an EMS and I installed the same unit to copy the newer OEM build. Don't know how any power failure could start an inverter that was truly switched OFF, but I've read there are some different ON/OFF configurations on this model. Perhaps other experienced Xantrex 3000 owners could chime in here. We have a few! The EMS E0 code means no error. This is the status you want. E1 through E10 are stated errors, defined on the cover plate and manual. The EMS is a sensitive device. Another member just showed it to be the issue in their case. See this thread and notice the picture at the end showing the burnt neutral wire: Air conditioner and 110 outlets stop working while camping - Page 2 - Mechanical & Technical Tips - Oliver Owner Forums (olivertraveltrailers.com) My second picture shows the insides of a good EMS when first installed. All wiring should look clean, free of corrosion and all connections tight. It's impossible to diagnose an intermittent electrical issue from a past trip. I do suggest this as a check. Frist make sure that you are NOT connected to shore power and trip the 30A breaker as a secondary precaution. Remove the cover to the PD5100 ATS (snap-fit, clips on the sides) and remove the EMS cover plate (6 small Phillips screws). First use a strong flashlight and inspect every wire and connection, for anything not clean looking. Then tighten the 6 terminal screws in the EMS and I believe there are 9 connections in the ATS. Replace the covers. Power up again when needed and that's likely all you can do for now, though you may soon get other suggestions. I also suggest when the Progressive Industries EMS-HW30C product is installed you do NOT add another "surge protector plugged in at the post." I've read here and elsewhere where many forum members will disagree with me on this notion, but IMHO possible interference between these devices outweighs redundancy. Give the lesser post model to a friend that needs one. Could be there was no physical issue, merely the shore power at that campsite had intermittent surging causing the EMS to switch OFF/ON quickly which it is designed to do and does create sound in the solenoids opening/closing. However, I live by the motto "hear something, say something, do something!" You did the first two steps. Pull the covers on both devices for inspection and maintenance. Something I did when purchasing our used Oliver for peace of mind.

Here is a related thread, I installed a similar box up front under the jack: ... https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/2688-how-to-junction-box-for-trailer-harness-repair-or-extend-the-harness/ This all came about because I wanted to install a ... Redarc DC to DC Battery Charger .... and I needed to know FOR SURE that the wires were big enough. 12 AWG is the absolute minimum according to Redarc, and bigger is always better, especially in an Ollie with a very long run back to the batteries. Here are the existing butt splices, half of them are absolutely buried under the sewer pipes. Time for a J-Box! So I cut all the splices, and dragged the ends up to where I could inspect the wires. Most were OK, but the white Ground wire was not. Somebody extended the front wire with a smaller sized one. Darn it! I bolted down the box next to the 120 VAC outlet. I spliced into the green and white running light wires and brought them up to the box via the bottom hole. The other wires come in from the left and right sides. I ran heavier 10 AWG black and white wires (power and ground) from the box back to the appropriate posts. So now the Redarc charger will not suffer from excessive voltage drop, and with the easy access, it will be very simple to troubleshoot any future 7 Wire Harness problems. The new splices are easy to ID because they have clear spiral wrap plastic, and they are secured to the inside wall using a 1" thick block of HDPE plastic, bonded with JB Weld directly over the small LED light. The placard goes inside the J Box using 3M double stick tape. Here is the placard, in Apple Pages format: Oliver Junction Box wiring placard Rear 7 pin.pages Note that I indicated where those marker light splices are - I hate not knowing! John Davies Spokane WA

I too was concerned, so before proceeding I crawled into the basement and there is just under a 1'x 3'x 1/4" backer plate that the approximately 1' spare tire mounting plate is through bolted to with 4 - 1/2" bolts. Since the spare tire does not rest on the bumper box when hung on mounting plate (there is a couple inch gap between the tire and the box), the addition of the bike rack actually adds back the support of the Oliver cover by resting on the bumper box. In addition, I added the two ratchet tie down straps to absorb any stress of the assembly pulling away from the camper even though I didn't detect any movement when pulling on the rack. The weight is now being carried by three points (the massive mounting plate, the rack resting on the bumper box, and the angled ratchet straps). We stay on good roads when we travel, but I will still be checking everything regularly. I will update my post after a few trips to report what I experience. Thanks, Joe/769

I wired everything prior to strapping the MP2 in place. The dual DC terminals allowed for the 4/0 battery cables and other +/- connections to the B+ and B- buses. These terminals made it so no additional +/- buses were required. Notice the SmartShunt (battery monitor) is wired directly to the ground at the MP2 vs. at the batteries, yet it is still first inline as it must be. I had 10-2 AWG direct burial cable from when I added the 30A RV outlet to our shed. I wired two runs, from the EMS and back to the 30A panel main breaker. One picture shows the old short round cable that was removed. The next picture under the rear dinette seat shows the new 120VAC wiring the MK3-USB-C interface needed to configure the MP2 inverter/charger. While I was in there, I disconnected the PD4000 controller and used that breaker to separate the microwave (now our Emeril Air Fryer) from the other 110V outlets. I will keep it there for if/when any major changes are met. Normal operation (OFF, ON, Inverter only, Charger only) and to set incoming amperage (15, 20, 30, or 50 (N/A)) can be set via the VictronConnect App via Bluetooth from VE.Bus interface. Both devices connect using any ethernet cable (have a box full)! No panels or screens must be installed cutting into walls, unless wanted. I must find a decorative patch for the Xantrex on/off switch I removed.

Did some testing today. It's only 95 out, must be 115 down in Phoenix, yuk! Yes, as @rideandfly and @mossemi mentioned there is a simple thermal switch screwed into the top RHS of the condenser. It was difficult to get a reading before the switch on the bottom end, so I pulled both female spade connectors. Voltage readings were odd, most prevalent number was about 4.3V and it read as high as 5.5V and sometimes lower too, weird. No where near 12V and this is a 12V fan. I made a spade jump wire to connect the fan, bypassing the thermal switch. The fan would not run at all even giving it a quick push start. The switch from the light switch panel was working, going from 4.3V to zero and back with the switch. I used the ground from the junction below with the heavy gauge yellow and the light blue wire to the fan. It looked to be connected properly as @DavePhelps had suggested checking. Testing B+ and B- at the junction box read 13.6V which is the same number the Victron app shows for the house batteries. What the heck? What would produce 4V or 5V and not 12V? Is the wiring so old and worn it has become one big resistor? Hope not, which could cause a fire. So, the easy fix for $90 is to replace this fan with the Titan or Beech Lane dual fans that other owners have done. I would not be able to use the switched power since it is not delivering 12V. I could run new wire from the junction below. In AUTO mode do these turn on-n-off with temp? I would mount the control box behind one of the panels, not in the upper cabinet as one post showed unless it can be fished there w/o going through the microwave cabinet, as I just insulated that cabinet for an oven. Can the ON/OFF temp settings be adjusted on these? I would hate to bypass the switch. Maybe I can run +12V up to the switch panel and back down. Any ideas are appreciated as always! Thanks

@Badger Pete, We had the Oliver cargo box and realized we needed to make better use of this storage area. In hindsight, would not have purchased the Oliver cargo box if this was available at the time for many reasons. Here is the custom made enclosed cargo box we upgraded to made by - https://seabiscuitmetaldesigns.com/product/oliver-box/ They are located in Johnson City, Tennessee🇺🇸. They ship anywhere in the lower 48. With lots of room, we keep all of our immediate camp set up gear - chocks, blocks, 30 amp cord, and other various first grab items we need here. David & Kristine Hess owners of SeaBiscut metal designs are just top shelf people. We even toured the Seabiscuitmetaldesigns machine shop where they custom hand craft and produce very well made high quality products. 🇺🇸 David & Kristine Hess will be at this years Oliver owners rally at Lake Guntersville SP and will have their cargo boxes and more on display. Possibly a newly designed rear cargo box for the Oliver as well. Welcome to the forum, we are here to help so ask questions, and Happy Camping! Patriot🇺🇸

Hi. My wife and I downsized from a triple slide fifth wheel and now have a twin bed LE2. We find we can fit enough clothes in the trailer for about 2 weeks of warm to moderate temperature travel. A little less if the weather is cold. As for food, the pantry and fridge are big enough for about 2 weeks of food. One thing to note: the new fridges have more fridge space but less freezer space then ours, so you may be more limited on the frozen side. We have the standard black tank. 3 days if you're using it exclusively, but we've gone several weeks by using bathhouses for everything but those early morning/late night calls from Mother Nature. Expect over 2 weeks on the gray tank if using max water saving measures. If using for daily showers, etc., then probably 3 days. You'll need an Andersen WD hitch with your truck and an LE2. We have a lot of stuff in the bed of our truck: Clam, chairs, mats, griddle, table, etc., etc. so watch your cargo weight. We have the Platinum lithium package and love it. It's the saving grace of this trailer. Haven't used our generator for 2 years (we don't use the AC much). We also love our additional street side awning. It's one of our favorite features. Keeps the cabin much cooler and gives you shade all day long. One final word. We may be an outlier but our 2022 Oliver has not been without issues. Some were not Oliver's fault, some are. Most minor, some major. It's a good design using good materials but, in our case, it has certainly not been trouble free. In fact, we have a cosmetic fiberglass issue right now. Maybe we got a bit of a COVID camper, maybe just bad luck, but I want to be honest about that. Thank goodness the Oliver service team is generally exceptional and none of the issues seriously interfered with our plans. We still like our Oliver and find it very comfortable and easy to find sites for.

Now I'm back to @Rivernerd's suggestion. Get a multimeter, or someone who knows how to use one, and follow the electricity's path until you find the problem. Test your home outlet, test the power at the end of the shoreline cable, test the power at the back of the shoreline connector in the trailer, test the power at the EMS input, test the power where it enters the circuit breaker box, test the power coming into the GFCI outlet, test at the AC, and keep going down the line. But this means working around live power and knowing how to use the meter correctly. You might be approaching professional assistance territory.

Have you looked inside the EMS box under the dinette? Pull the top off and check the wiring inside for a short. It will be obvious if there is one.

This is a LOCKED thread. I wanted to put all my links in one spot so that they are easy for folks to find. Search remains a real problem with this forum! This thread does not allow comments. If you have questions, find a dead link or just want to talk, you can comment on the appropriate thread, or start a new thread or just Message me. I will add to this page as I start new threads, so hopefully it will continue to be a good up-to-date reference. NEWEST POSTS ARE AT THE TOP. I am not going to bother to alphabetize them, LOL. I put a link to this page in my signature, so you can get here directly from any of my comments. Thanks JD _________________________________________ UPDATED 09/07/24 GENERAL TECH THREADS AND MISCELLANEOUS SUBJECTS: https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/9567-new-apogee-adapt-x-4x8-ft-folding-aluminum-trailer/ https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/9473-security-and-battery-risk-change-your-victronconnect-log-in-password-from-the-default-setting/ https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/9045-door-holder-rubber-grommet-online-source-part-number/ https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/4941-brakes-emergency-breakaway-switch-power-wire-has-no-fuse-holder-or-fuse/ https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/2139-bulldog-coupler-destroys-anderson-ball/ https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/6812-check-your-rear-jack-mount-hardware-bottom-frame-bolts-were-1-turn-loose/ https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/6766-apollo-pex-installation-manual-pdf-excellent-resource-for-everything-pex/ 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https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/archoil-6200-fuel-treatment/ ___________________________________ HOW TO MODIFICATION AND SERVICE THREADS: https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/9169-how-to-isotherm-intelligent-control-for-cruise-130-refrigerator/ https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/9168-how-to-install-an-isotherm-cruise-130-2-way-refrigerator-in-an-le2/ https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/9167-how-to-professional-looking-labels-or-placards-using-a-dymo-lablemanager-420p/ https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/9166-how-to-add-extra-thermal-insulation-and-foam-padding-around-the-twin-beds/ https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/9040-how-to-dometic-3-way-fridge-removal-and-demolition/ https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/9039-how-to-bath-sink-compartment-mods-duct-rework-insulation-disconnect-flush-line/ https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/9038-how-to-mod-your-dc-panel-under-the-dinette-for-easier-fuse-access/ 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Replaced Grade 8 bolts with Grade 5 - IMPORTANT, PLEASE READ THIS: .... https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/3564-bulldog-coupler-complete-bolt-failure/ https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/how-to-upgrade-the-bulldog-coupler-and-andersen-hitch-to-2-5-16/ https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/flag-pole-and-mount/ https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/how-to-remove-modify-the-cover-over-the-waste-storage-bay/ https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/how-to-caframo-sirocco-ii-12-volt-marine-cabin-fan/ https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/how-to-dometic-refrigerator-cooling-fan-noisy-disconnect-the-power-wire/ https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/how-to-move-the-factory-cargo-tray-to-a-rear-rack/ https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/how-to-service-your-furnace/ https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/how-to-external-solar-dc-power-cable-using-factory-furrion-port/ https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/how-to-service-and-inspect-your-suburban-hot-water-heater-gas-system/ https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/how-to-reflective-and-non-skid-tape/ https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/how-to-outside-shore-power-monitor-for-winter-storage/ https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/hot-water-heater-110v-element-switch-safety-label/ https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/waste-pipe-plastic-dust-grommet-not-secured-pipe-moves-around/ https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/how-to-solar-panel-extension-arms/ https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/how-to-aircraft-tiedowns-for-the-storage-tray/ https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/how-to-wire-cable-clothes-line-full-cabin-length/ https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/how-to-closet-tie-down-rings/ https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/how-to-davies-rv-travel-log-service-inventory-spreadsheet-excel-numbers/ https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/how-to-protect-the-gelcoat-under-the-spare-tire/ https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/how-to-anderson-friction-cone-service/ https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/how-to-brake-wiring-is-undersized-some-answers-and-partial-solution/ https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/how-to-junction-box-for-trailer-harness-repair-or-extend-the-harness/ https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/how-to-garmin-inreach-powered-mount/ https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/how-to-install-a-dual-high-output-2-1-amp-2-1-amp-usb-charger/ https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/how-to-nev-r-adjust-brake-initial-adjustment-and-how-it-works-plus-discussion/ https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/how-to-stone-stomper-gravel-guard/ https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/how-to-subframe-gravel-guard/ https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/how-to-rear-mud-flaps-for-the-ollie/ https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/how-to-bleach-service-tee-to-sterilize-water-during-tank-fill/ https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/how-to-fix-your-waste-tee-handles-so-they-wont-break-off/ https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/overnight-visitor-checklist/ https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/how-to-fix-and-flip-your-blinds/ https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/how-to-fresh-water-tank-suction-tube-mod-no-spin-welding-required/ https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/how-to-relocate-the-surge-suppressor-remote-display/ https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/how-to-tire-pressure-placard/ https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/how-to-bathroom-door-hold-open/ https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/how-to-galley-drawer-travel-straps/ https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/how-to-fix-your-overhead-cabinet-latches-wrong-hardware/ https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/how-to-fix-your-inside-access-panel-straps-wrong-hardware/ https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/how-to-anderson-weight-distributing-hitch-center-frame-location/ https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/how-to-install-a-big-bubble-level-no-drilling/ https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/my-tow-camp-checklist/ https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/how-to-spare-tire-and-wheel-lock/ https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/how-to-install-safeties-on-the-solar-panel-mount-knobs-important/ https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/how-to-install-a-garmin-bc-30-backup-camera/ https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/how-to-drain-holes-in-the-lower-step/ https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/how-to-santa-cruz-locking-shotgun-mount-in-the-closet-3/ https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/how-to-jack-bubble-level-adjustment-and-indexing

Running off of a 2KW inverter (or compressor as mentioned) is likely a no-go. They list this at the bottom of their spec insert on the RecPro page: This AC unit requires a minimum 2500-watt generator with a dedicated 30-amp service. Using a lower-rated generator may cause difficulty when starting the AC unit or may require a soft starter.* *It is recommended to use a 3000-watt generator with a dedicated 30-amp service.*

Our 2021 OEII came with a 2" hitch mount rack receiver but the installation was (in my view and with respect to a lot of other good work done by the prior owner of our trailer) not quite up to 'factory standard'. In fact the U-bolt-based attachment method distorted the receiver shape just enough to make installation, and especially removal, of our 1Up hitch rack next to impossible. So I sought to improve upon it. After some research I settled on a receiver ostensibly designed for use on certain Lexus GX460 models: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BRKR1Q4X Drilling and attachment was straightforward given a drill press, a decent 1/2" bit, appropriate measuring tools, and a center punch. The aluminum is relatively soft and drilling oil was not used. I have not been able to get all the chips out of the interior, but did not try too hard to remove an end cap and access the box section beam interior that way. The hardware is 3 1/2" x 1/2" stainless with stainless and yellow zinc washers. We have not tested the setup on the road yet, but static fitment went fine. The receiver and backing plate are fairly heavy; according to the retailer, about 10 pounds. This item is designed for towing, when attached to a GX460; it is likely overkill for this application, but that's OK by me. A side benefit is the receiver has safety chain mounts through which a cable lock could be passed. I discussed this with Jason and he indicated the factory were considering offering a 2" receiver option moving forward. Our bike rack is 2", our cars and TV have 2" receivers, and use of an adapter was not appealing to me. In hindsight I might have painted it white, or silver 😀 Enjoy! Tim

It seems that not everything that this video claims to be is nor accurate. I can’t recommend this product.

NEW JUNCTION BOX: This has literally been bugging me for five years, from the first time I saw a picture of the outlet mounted right below the faucet water supply hoses and the drain pipes. It is not even a GFCI outlet! If there is a water leak, it could be dangerous. Sorry for the rotated pics, some come through this way! Remove the two lower drawers by squeezing the orange release things, and lift up and out. Remove the flip out tray screws. Remove the tee piece (three long screws) and then the 1/8' plywood access panel. DISCONNECT SHORE POWER, double check to make sure these wires cannot be energized! Flip the main breaker to make sure! I measured the space and found that it is too tight to install a waterproof "in use" outlet cover. I even tried, I ordered one from Amazon, I can return it easily. Nope, it won't work. I decided to eliminate the outlet entirely. I am not sure why Oliver did not hard wire this in the first place...... I found this plastic junction box at Home Depot: Here is what comes in that kit: This is a true approved 100% waterproof cover; Dimensions. It is plenty thin to fit in that area. More to follow. John Davies Spokane WA

Hello everyone, I'm new on here and excited to be a part of the community. I just placed an order for a small 2500 watt dual fuel Champion generator and plan on running it off of the propane quick connects. Will i need to get a diaphragm regulator? Anyone have advice and/or photos of their setup? Thanks, Happy Camper

I am by no means an expert in this area but I understand that the bonded neutral plug is needed. I have one but have not used my generator yet to charge the batteries or run anything in the oliver. I copied this from a thread on this topic: https://www.rvtravel.com/rv-electricity-generator-neutral-bonding-basics/ Also found this in another thread: "Without a neutral/ground plug in an outlet on the generator, no electricity will pass through the EMS" Scott

My Oliver Elite II is a 2016 model that I purchased from the factory with factory solar and 4 T-105 Trojan lead acid batteries. Over the 8 years with the lead acid batteries I never saw the charge level of the batteries below 83% full! Mind you that I'm very conservative regarding energy usage to include having only actually run the furnace twice over this time. I also never have the inverter on unless I'm actually using it and even then it was seldom used for more than 6 minutes at a time (a good sized baked potato in the microwave). However, even though the batteries were still performing as they should, I simply thought that as I approached my 9th year, I was simply taking too much of a risk that these batteries would leave me stranded while out in the middle of nowhere. So, in late 2023 I began my search for replacements. Since I do not live under a rock, I was reasonably aware of the "long-term" benefits of switching to lithium batteries. But, in the short-term, the expense of this kind of upgrade was a bit difficult to justify. Note here that I live in the mountains of North Carolina and do most of my camping in the summer at altitude in the Rockies where sleeping at night is usually a question of how many blankets versus will I be cool enough. Yes, the driving trip from NC to the Rockies each year can be a bit warm (think 100 degrees going across TN, IL, MO, KS and the eastern plains of the Rockies) and, yes, it would be nice to power the a/c via the batteries on rare occasion. But, I made the decision that until my current 2000 watt inverter dies, I would not spend the extra money to upgrade which would certainly add to the overall cost of the project. In addition, I'm not a big cell phone user and prefer a simpler life. Given the energy usage noted above plus I do not need to let anyone know that I'm presently on isle #5 at my local WalMart, and, I don't want or see the need to be attached at the hip with a cell phone. So, going into this replacement of the lead acids I simply assumed that I'd purchase something that I could "drop in", use the same wiring that came from the factory along with the same Blue Sky MPPT solar controller, IPN remote (shows typical shunt readings), existing cables, and not change a thing (or at least very little) from what has worked very well over the past 8 years. The price of lithium batteries was/is still coming down but was still too high to justify the extra expense versus the alternatives. OK - this is the base from which I started and certainly I recognize that my situation does not apply to everyone - nor should it. After looking at several alternatives I had almost decided on purchasing 4 VMAX XTR6-235 AGM batteries at $1370. Of course, another possible alternative would have been the Brightway Group EVGC-220A-AGM batteries at 4 for $995.00. But, I saw a YouTube video by Will Prowse that highlighted the LiTime 230 amp hour lithium batteries. Next it was the Christmas holidays and I saw that the LiTimes were discounted plus I could get an additional 8% off my order since I had served in the military. So, with 2 of the 230-amp hour batteries plus 2 bus bars, my total for 460 amp hours was near $1,075* – well within the cost of non-lithium batteries. Yes, I was aware that the LiTimes "only" had a warranty of 5 years versus the 10 years for Battle Borns or the 11 years for the Epoch. But, since most (if not all) of these lithium battery cells are made in China (with some assembled into the batteries we see in the USA) I figured that since the LiTimes are about half the cost, if they died at 5 years I would still break even versus the Battle Born's. The "final straw" was seeing Ronbrink's post** on his install of the LiTimes! Upon receiving the 2 batteries*** (3 days after order) I found that the battery terminals were recessed relative to the tops of the batteries. Therefore, I purchased 4 terminal blocks with 250-amp fuses at a cost of $68 on Amazon. So, I was just about set for the install at a total price of just under $1,150. Next, I took a hard look at the wiring necessary for the install. My original intention was to install the bus bars either inside the Oliver (near the solar controller) or on the wall inside the battery box. But, for the "quick and easy" install that I was hoping for it appeared that I could use the two 4/0 cables (each about 7 inches long - end of lug to end of lug) plus two additional cables of this length that (hopefully) I could get from a fellow Ollie owner. Indeed, Mossemi came to my rescue and supply me with those two cables that he no longer needed after his Lithium conversion. Putting this all together resulted in what appeared to be a nice tight package that I could simply "drop into " the existing space in the battery compartment. I "bench" tested the batteries in my workshop and even performed what is called a "top balance" on the two batteries just to make sure that they were ready to go (i.e. a "top balance" is performed by charging each battery to 100% and then connecting the two batteries together and letting them adjust to each other for 4 to 24 hours). Indeed, the 2 LiTime batteries easily fit into the existing space and I had some foam blocks that I used to make sure that the fit was snug. Also, the original Oliver tie-down straps could be used to hold the new batteries in place. When connecting the cables from the Oliver I found that I needed to slightly alter the openings into the bus bars so that the “tops” of the bus bars would seat nicely onto their bases. This was simply done using a Dremel tool. And, even though the LiTimes have “low temperature charging protection” (lithium batteries should not be charged when they reach a temperature of below approximately 32 degrees) I decided to insulate the battery compartment door with some ½ inch foam board. Finally, my original intent was to keep my original converter which did not have a lithium battery setting. These old converters will charge a lithium battery, but, it would not charge it to 100% full. However, upon resetting the Blue Sky solar controller from the Lead Acid parameters to the Lithium parameters, the solar panels would take care of getting the total charge in the new batteries to 100%. But, I saw a lithium capable converter on Amazon Warehouse for $147 and could not resist****. With a total cost of now just under $1,300 I was in the lithium world with (hopefully) longer lasting batteries and considerably more usable amp hours than the T-105's I started with. In addition, should the inverter decide to fail, I can now replace it with a 3,000 watt inverter and be in a position to run the a/c off the batteries for a short period of time. During the Owner's Rally and in the weeks after the Rally, the batteries, solar, and converter have all been working as they should. I would still prefer to install a battery cut-off switch but that will have to wait until the summer camping season is over. In a nutshell, here is what I did: 1. Disconnected the solar panels via the cutoff switch (street side bed) and opened fuses near the negative bus bar (also street side bed) and do not be connected to shore power. 2. Removed the old Trojan batteries (disconnect negative terminals first and take pics of wiring configuration prior to disconnect). 3. Cleaned all wiring connections. 4. Cleaned battery box and repainted tray. 5. Inserted new LiTime batteries and connected the two battery cables to the first and third bus bar posts, the main negative from the Oliver to the second post and the other negative cables to the fourth post. Performed the same procedure with the positive cables. 6. Closed the two cutoff fuses near the solar controller. 7. Reprogrammed the MPPT controller via the IPN Remote using setting provided by LiTime. 8. Disconnected the charge wire from my tow vehicle – actually I removed fuse #17 in my 2023 F-150. 9. Verified that the dip switch inside the solar charge controller was turned off – you do not want to “equalize” lithium batteries. 10. Verified that the solar system and the new converter were operating correctly and were charging as appropriate. Bill Notes *As of 6-24-2024 the price of 2 LiTime 230 amp hour batteries is $1048. **Part of Ronbrink’s install can be found at: https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/3333-battle-born-lithium-ion-12-volt-batteries-in-an-oliver/page/3/#comment-98774 AND https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/9395-prime-deals-on-battleborn-and-renogy-suitcase-solar/#comment-99676 *** I wanted 2 batteries to protect myself in the event one of the 2 developed a problem. ****Installation of the lithium capable converter can be found at https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/4812-how-to-progressive-dynamics-pd4045-lithium-upgrade/

Curious if the "box" used to mount your timer and relay is the same plastic device that has to be removed to get into electrical box? Just have to cut out the plastic dividers to allow room to install devices? The 18/4 in the parts list can be used to make connections from circuit board to devices?

All power disconnected from RV Removed the cover from the 2801 AC, located the metal electrical box and removed cover. I was able to locate terminals for Low fan, compressor, and looking for possible location for new timer/relay box. Thanks again for your quick response to my questions. When it comes to electrical the only dumb question (for me) is the one I don't ask. In this case I would have done some real damage "assuming" I understood how to proceed.

I bought this on eBay at a great discount, they advertised it as Open Box. This is what I found on the outside of the Dewalt box: I am not sure what happened. Was this a case where somebody tried to ship a firearm illegally as "tools" and the shipping company found it? It looks like somebody tried unsuccessfully to peel off the sticker, which explains why it shipped to me inside another plain box. I have never heard of this situation when buying an item online, any comments? There was nothing wrong with the tool or any of its parts; unfortunately there was no free Uzi inside…. 😬 John Davies Spokane WA

I’m hull 1139, Vic Shumate, purchased generator 2 days to help with running appliances etc,.,,,generator works great but Oliver says I need to change AC input settings from 25 to 15 on the Xantrex inverter remote panel while using generator as power source…..,,how do I change this setting on the xantrex?! I’m suppose to change it back when plugged into AC 30 for power! So I need to know how to set it!? Can’t seem to get batteries back to 12.5 -14 volts?! I turned the xantrex off! Will that help or hurt while running generator? I’m at a bluegrass festival in Okeechobee Florida through Sunday morning…….. my batteries dropped to 9.6 volts in 2 days while boon docking with roof solar panel, wanted to use generator to bring batteries back up but I’m not doing something right! Help! Got batteries back to 11.6 V today but do t know if it was solar panel or generator doing it!? Refrigerator says code C and Ice melting…not good! thanks