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Curious if the "box" used to mount your timer and relay is the same plastic device that has to be removed to get into electrical box? Just have to cut out the plastic dividers to allow room to install devices? The 18/4 in the parts list can be used to make connections from circuit board to devices?

All power disconnected from RV Removed the cover from the 2801 AC, located the metal electrical box and removed cover. I was able to locate terminals for Low fan, compressor, and looking for possible location for new timer/relay box. Thanks again for your quick response to my questions. When it comes to electrical the only dumb question (for me) is the one I don't ask. In this case I would have done some real damage "assuming" I understood how to proceed.

I bought this on eBay at a great discount, they advertised it as Open Box. This is what I found on the outside of the Dewalt box: I am not sure what happened. Was this a case where somebody tried to ship a firearm illegally as "tools" and the shipping company found it? It looks like somebody tried unsuccessfully to peel off the sticker, which explains why it shipped to me inside another plain box. I have never heard of this situation when buying an item online, any comments? There was nothing wrong with the tool or any of its parts; unfortunately there was no free Uzi inside…. 😬 John Davies Spokane WA

I’m hull 1139, Vic Shumate, purchased generator 2 days to help with running appliances etc,.,,,generator works great but Oliver says I need to change AC input settings from 25 to 15 on the Xantrex inverter remote panel while using generator as power source…..,,how do I change this setting on the xantrex?! I’m suppose to change it back when plugged into AC 30 for power! So I need to know how to set it!? Can’t seem to get batteries back to 12.5 -14 volts?! I turned the xantrex off! Will that help or hurt while running generator? I’m at a bluegrass festival in Okeechobee Florida through Sunday morning…….. my batteries dropped to 9.6 volts in 2 days while boon docking with roof solar panel, wanted to use generator to bring batteries back up but I’m not doing something right! Help! Got batteries back to 11.6 V today but do t know if it was solar panel or generator doing it!? Refrigerator says code C and Ice melting…not good! thanks

STARLINK 12vDC Conversion UPDATE: After our 2-week Quartzsite trip which put us in 3 campsite locations on BLM LTVAs, it was clear that our Starlink system needed a more permanent install in Casa Blanca. Setting-up/stowing 3 times became a minor PITA. We discussed "how" we wanted to use Starlink and it basically came down to: 1. Maintaining the flexibility of using Starlink with or without our Oliver, such as a back-up to our residential system. Essentially, we still wanted to use the 120vAC option when not camping. Some applications suggest flat-mounting the antenna on the RV roof - this is a permanent option and not for our lifestyle; 2. Making Oliver Starlink operations 12vDC-based and not 120vAC which is the Starlink standard. Power consumption is estimated to be 18 to 25% less using 12vDC rather than using the inverter to energize the Starlink. Spent the last couple days rigging up 12vDC-based "proof of concept" set-up. Using the solar port on the battery hatch for the power source, the test set-up included: 1. A Boondocker.ie sourced "Dual Dishy DC-DC power supply/PoE injector" circuit board ($88, direct from Boondocker.ie); 2. Power supply/PoE injector circuit board box (3D-print file downloaded free, $25 to print box locally) 2. GL.iNet GL-MT3000 (Beryl AX) Pocket-Sized Wi-Fi 6 travel router ($109, Amazon); 3. Acridine 12vDC to 5vDC converter ($12.99, Amazon); 4. LOCHSOEL RJ45 Interface Waterproof Socket Connector, ($17,99, Amazon); 5. Sabra Technologies Shielded rj45 cat6 connectors , ($19.99, Amazon) FULL DISCLOSURE: If cutting a Startlink cable or drilling hull penetrations makes you lose sleep at night, this mod may not be for you. Preparing the 12vDC-based components for the test set-up: Testing the concept of the 12VDC conversion before running power wires and Cat6 cables inside the camper: Description of components in above pic: 1. Upper left: The Starlink "Dishy" satellite antenna. Starlink uses proprietary terminal connectors on either end of the provided shielded 50-foot Cat 6 communications cable. The antenna end is designed to be compatible with the "leg" by being inserted into the tube of the antenna leg. The antenna end connector stays with the 12v conversion - the router end of the cable is not needed for the 12v application. The router connector is removed (cut) 3' from the router end. It will be used later when the cable is fit with a RJ45 shielded connector for the optional 120vAC residential set-up; 2. Lower left: Red Husky box configured inside to stow Starlink gear. The original Starlink 120vAC router and power cord - not used in the 12vDC conversion is on top of the Husky box; 3. On table: Black box (3-D print) housing the Boondocker circuit board, travel router (gray box with antennas "up"), 12vDC to 5vDC converter (small black box to left of router); 4. Power cord from SAE plug on battery hatch (solar connector); 5. Power toggle switch w/green "on" LED (not visible), ($11.99, AutoZone); 6. All connection power wires are 12AWG stranded automobile grade. Prior to firing up the test, the travel router needed to be configured - standard drill. Energizing the test set-up yielded blazing fast internet speed (screenshot taken right from the Starlink app): Notwithstanding changing out the original router with the travel router and adding the Boondocker circuit board, the Starlink app behaves as normal - completely transparent as the major components are housed in the antenna and not in the factory stock router. After cycling the test set-up "on/off" several times with power toggle switch, the Starlink connected each time with 2 or 3 minutes. Confident that the 12v system will perform as planned after testing, we prepared the Cat 6 cable hull penetration. Using the existing DC-to-DC charger (1/0 cables) Blue Seas clam hull penetration, a 1/4" hole was drilled into the rubber weather seal adjacent to the pos/neg 1/0 cables in the clam to accommodate the Starlink cable. This hull penetration is located adjacent to where the 7-pin cable comes through from inside the vanity sink cabinet. After feeding the Cat 6 through the clam into the vanity cabinet, prepared the penetration in the "dog house" adjacent to the flag pole mount. "Weatherproof" RJ45 socket through the Dog House shell. The weatherproof socket as well as all RJ45 connectors were tested for continuity with our cable tester: Each Starlink cable end (except for antenna end) needs an RJ45 shielded connector... The above connector runs from the inside "dog house" connector under the LPG bottles through the clam hull penetration into the vanity cabinet. We decided to mount the Starlink kit inside the closet on the inner bulkhead. Wanting to have a dedicated power run, 12AWG red/black stranded wires run from the main positive bus under the aft dinette seat (red) and from the SmartShunt (black) then they run under the dinette table and forward seat, under the toilet into the vanity cabinet. Drilled a hole just above the 2" black ABS plumbing vent pipe from within the vanity cabinet into the closet. Routed the 12AWG power wires and Cat 6 cable from above the plumbing vent inside the vanity into the closet then up and through the lower and upper closet shelves. Today, components will be mounted on the closet bulkhead, power connections will be made, another RJ45 connector fitted to the Boondocker end of the Starlink cable, then test final install later this afternoon. More to come....

Just some trivia for a discussion topic. I’ve been looking to purchase a small inverter generator to carry on long extended camping road trips, and in comparing specs and reviews, the Honda series consistently comes out as a top choice (but pricey!). One interesting detail is the engine displacement comparison. The Honda has a significantly larger engine for the given wattage compared to the lower cost competitors. Probably explains a lot about the reliability and noise advantages of the Honda. The larger gas engine just doesn’t have to work as hard. Couldn’t find any any info on the engine horsepower ratings of each brand though. Maybe it’s on the data plate on the unit itself (there’s a direct relationship between engine horsepower and potential maximum wattage of the generator). Larger engine displacement typically means more torque, and more torque means lower RPM needed to achieve a particular horsepower. HP= torque in lb-ft x RPM/5252 1 HP=33,000 lb-ft/min=746 watts Comparison: Home Depot Ryobi 2300 watt - 79cc. ——— Harbor Freight Predator 2000 watt - 79cc. ——— Honda EU2200i 2200 watt - 121cc. ——— Champion 2500 watt - 79cc. ——— WEN 2500 watt - 80cc. ——— Craftsman 2500 watt - 98cc. ———

Romex is household electrical cable, usually white or whitish gray, that contains 3 wires: black, white, bare. Yes, 3 connectors: hot (black wires), neutral (white), ground (bare). They splice the feed line, water heater, and fridge lines together. I put a bend in both Romex just before the connectors and tied the Romex together before the bend with zip ties. This was to prevent cable movement from pulling directly on the connectors. Everything in the junction box. The box is what prevented a possible fire. Electrical tape.

Summary I have installed a rear mounted cargo carrier, with lights, to our 2022 Oliver Legacy Elite II (LEII) travel trailer. We recently completed a two week, ~2000 mile trip, using the cargo carrier, which performed flawlessly. Below are photos of the installed cargo carrier, which are followed by a detailed description of its installation. Storage Constraints Prior to ordering our Oliver Legacy Elite II (LEII) travel trailer I knew we would need additional storage space on the trailer. We are using a 2014 BMW X5 35d (diesel) as our tow vehicle, rather than a pickup truck. Thus, we could not plan to use the pickup bed for supplemental storage. We also needed to stay within the tow vehicle's cargo capacity of 1100 lbs and maximum tongue weight of 600 lbs.. Expecting a tongue weight of approximately 500 lbs. plus two occupants at approximately 300 lbs, we could only accommodate a maximum of 300 lbs. of other cargo. The available payload will be partially used by our camera gear, which must be protected from exposure to moisture. A tongue mounted cargo carrier was not viable, given the tongue weight limit for the tow vehicle. Storage Requirements I anticipated needing additional storage space for the following items: Champion Dual Fuel Generator- 2500 watt (~45 lbs.) (too large for basement storage) Napoleon TravelQ™ 285 Portable Propane Gas Grill and hose (~35 lbs.) (too large for basement storage) Anderson Ultimate Leveling kit (~25 lbs) Harbor Freight rubber chocks (4) (~20 lbs.) Camco Stabilizer Jack Supports (3) (~10 lbs.) Miscellaneous accessories All of these items can tolerate some exposure to moisture, which is likely when stored in any external cargo carrier. A closed and reasonably secure cargo carrier was needed. Searching the owners' forum, I found examples of rear cargo carriers/bike racks and found several examples, including: Oliver's original bike rack design using twin receivers and extending approximately 3 feet beyond the rear bumper; Various rear mounted metal cargo boxes, including custom designs; Rear mounting of an Oliver tongue cargo box by John E. Davies. I also looked extensively at aluminum cargo boxes from various manufacturers, trying to find options which could accommodate the cargo items listed above. I already owned a cargo carrier which we had used on the BMW X5 tow vehicle. This carrier has a heavy steel swing-away frame which mounts to a standard 2" receiver. Mounted on the steel frame are a polypropylene tray and an enclosed container with 13.5 cubic foot capacity. The tray and enclosed container interlock. This cargo carrier also is equipped with fully functional lights (running, brake, turn, flasher). Interlocking pins on the enclosed container mate with the tray. Locking latches secure the container to the tray. Solution Approach I decided to re-use the polypropylene tray and enclosed cargo container, but not the heavy steel frame. Instead, I would use a design similar to the original Oliver bike rack. I ordered the current optional Oliver bike rack when we placed our LEII order, planning to utilize some, but not all, of its components. The current Oliver rear hitch (photo below) utilizes twin receivers that are 11" long, constructed to receive 2" x 2" X 0.25" (wall thickness) T6061 aluminum square tube support arms, which are 17 inches long. The receivers are each mounted to the LEII frame by two long 0.5" diameter stainless steel bolts and nuts. The other components of the rack are a 2" x 5" x 0.25" T6061 aluminum cross-member, 51-1/8" long (with end caps), and a 1-1/4" receiver for connecting a bike rack. I planned to use the twin receivers, and the cross-member, but not the support arms, nor the 1-1/4" receiver. Instead, I would replace the 17" long original support arms with longer equivalents, whose length was to be determined. I would utilize the original 2" x 5" x 0.25" T6061 aluminum cross-member and add another cross member, this one 2" x 2" x 0.25" T6061 aluminum, also 51-1/8" inches long with end caps. The cross members would be bolted to the support arms, in the same manner as on the Oliver rear hitch. The tray and enclosed container from my existing cargo carrier would be mounted to the cross-members. Note the clevis pins circled in the photo below, there are two 0.50" diameter horizontal clevis pins securing the support arms in their receivers. Each clevis pin has a washer on either side of the receiver. Removing the clevis pins permits the support arms to be pulled to the rear, enabling removal of the spare tire cover and spare tire without dismount the support arms. Solution Model A critical dimension to be determined was the length of the 2" x 2" x 0.25" support arms. The new support arms need to be long enough to: Support the polypropylene tray and enclosed cargo box and attach using the molded mounting holes in the tray; Allow the lid of the enclosed cargo box to open without striking the spare tire cover; Permit removal of the spare tire cover and spare tire without removing the cargo carrier and support frame; Permit access to waste water hoses stored behind the bumper; Minimize the additional length of the cargo carrier and support frame to the LEII's length. I fabricated 2" x 2" wooden support arms, approximately 40" long. Using woodworking equipment, I cut slots into one end of each support arm to fit around the bolts holding the twin receivers to the frame. I also drilled horizontal holes for the clevis pins which retain the support arms in the receivers. Positioning the Cargo Carrier on the Cross-members The wooden support arms were inserted into the twin receivers and secured with the clevis pins. Then the 2" x 5" x 51.125" T6061 cross-member was placed across the support arms near the bumper. The additional 2" x 2" x 51.125" wooden cross-member, was also placed across the support arms, but further from the bumper. Clamps were used to hold the cross-members in place on the support arms. The polypropylene tray and enclosed container, latched together, were positioned on the cross-members, centering both to the trailer's width. I opened the lid of the enclosed container and adjusted the spacing (fore and aft) between the lid and the spare tire cover to ensure they did not contact each other. Once I had located the joined tray and enclosed container in what appeared to be a desirable position, I adjusted the positions of the cross-members fore and aft to establish alignment with the mounting holes in the tray. The 2" x 5" cross-member engages two mounting holes on each side of the tray. The 2" x 2" cross- member engages only one mounting hole on each side of the base of the tray. Six 5/16" carriage bolts will fasten the tray to the cross-members. Only four carriage bolts attached the tray to its original steel support frame. I used a mason's string stretched across the width of the tray with weights on either end to aid in aligning the mounting holes in the tray with the positions of the cross-members. I also used carpenter's squares to verify the cross-members were perpendicular to the support arms. Another check of squareness was made by measuring the distance from the trailer bumper to the cross-members. Once I was satisfied with the position of the tray and enclosed container on the support structure, I marked the locations for the holes to be drilled for the six mounting bolts to secure the tray to the cross-members. The tray overhangs the rear cross-member at the rear. With the cargo carrier tray and enclosed container in place on the clamped cross-members, I wanted to determine if the spare tire cover could be removed without removing the entire cargo carrier and support assembly. I found I could remove the clevis pins and pull the support arms aft approximately 7 inches out of the twin receivers and enable removal of the spare tire cover. With the tray and enclosed container positioned on the cross-members, I could now determine the required length of the support arms, which is 33.75 inches. The location of the rear cross-member determines the length of the support arms. After locating the mounting position of the tray and enclosed container I marked all key positions and hole locations on the wooden support arms and wooden rear cross-member. I cut the wooden support arms to the desired final length. Material Sourcing and Machining The required T6061 aluminum components required are: 2" x 2" x 0.25" x 33.75", square tube, quantity 2 (support arms), cost= $110.18 2" x 2" x 0.25" x 51.125", square tube, quantity 1 (cross-member), cost= to $99.08 2" x 12" x 0.125", flat bar, quantity 1 (to be cut into 2" squares for end caps on the support arms and rear cross-member), cost= $6.86 Sales tax= $17.83 No shipping charge. I picked up the materials at the local Metal Supermarkets warehouse Total cost= a $233.95 The above T6061 aluminum components, cut to specified length, were obtained from: Stainless steel bolts and nyloc nuts were obtained from: I was referred by Metal Supermarkets to a local machine shop: When I received the materials I took them and my wooden mockups of the support arms and cross-member to Air & Earth. I also took one of the original support arms. I discussed the machining needed: to cut the slots in one end of the support arms and to drill the needed 0.50 diameter holes for the clevis pins and mounting bolts. I also asked them to cut the 2" x 0.125" flat bar into 2" x 2" squares. I did not ask them to drill the smaller holes for mounting the cargo tray to the cross-members. I was quoted $220 and turnaround of the job within a week. They did an excellent job within the promised timeframe. Finishing and Assembly of the Support Structure After Air & Earth completed the requested machining, I performed the following finishing steps, which included: Rounding the edges of the 2" x 2" square tubing on the slotted end to be inserted into the receivers. I used a 3" wide belt sander with 100 grit sanding belts to round the corners of approximately 12" of the tube which would be inserted into the receivers . The original Oliver support arms also had the corners rounded to more easily slide within the receivers. Several trial fittings were required to verify smooth insertion and removal to/from the receivers. The support arms and the rear cross-member were sanded with an orbital sander using 200 grit disks. This sanding removed markings on the tubes and made the surface textured, similar to the Oliver rear hitch components. The support arms were inserted into their receivers and fastened with the clevis pins. The cross members were aligned with the mounting holes on the support arms and bolted into place. The cargo tray was positioned on the 2" x 5" cross-member at the previously determined mounting position and holes drilled to mount the cargo tray. Holes were then drilled in the 2" x 2" rear cross-member. Carriage bolts, flat washers and double jamb nuts were used to secure the cargo tray to the cross-members. Once all test fittings of the support assembly were completed, lithium grease was applied to the ends of the support arms which are inserted into the receivers. 2" x 2" x 0.125" caps were attached to the open ends of the support arms and the rear cross-member, similar to the end caps used by Oliver. These were attached to the square tubing using JB Weld epoxy. Cargo Carrier Lighting The cargo carrier partially blocks visibility to the taillights of the trailer, which is most noticeable when viewed from close behind the trailer. At a distance the taillights are largely visible. The cargo tray is fitted with two LED light fixtures and a wiring harness with a 4-pin flat connector. A corresponding 4-pin flat connector was installed on the LEII to integrate the lighting on the cargo carrier with the trailer lighting. Details of the installation of the 4-pin connector in the trailer are covered in a separate article. The lights on the cargo carrier ensure the trailer is quite visible from behind. A license plate mount was added to the cargo carrier tray, since the license plate mount on the spare tire cover is blocked by the cargo carrier. Lighting for the license plate mount is provided by adding a Y connector to the license plate light cable under the spare tire cover and adding an extension cable routed to the cargo tray mounted license plate mount. I also added reflective tape to the support frame members. I used the following reflective tape: https://www.amazon.com/gp/your-account/order-history/ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_search?opt=ab&search=reflective Conclusion This addition to our trailer provides significant benefits, with no significant disadvantages. It does add approximately two feet to the length of the trailer. Besides the additional storage space, the cargo carrier and its load slightly reduces the tongue weight. I measured the tongue weight, using a Sherline scale, at 450 lbs., with no water onboard. Tongue weight seems sufficient, as no swaying or other handling issues have been observed. This project had a successful outcome due largely to the information I was able to glean from the Oliver Owners Forum. I hope this information is useful to others on the forum. Comments and suggestions welcome. Regards, Don

Skipster, Please go to your account settings and then click on Signature. Then enter info on your trailer and tow vehicle, as Craig (Galway Girl) has done. This really helps those who read your posts understand a bit more about the Trailer or Tow vehicle, and they can give more direct answer or suggestion. As Craig mentioned, Pictures (see his post) can help people see what you are seeing. I just finished reading Craig's post on his Battery Box issue and thought of your issue i had read earlier. Craig is correct, similar but not the same. Nice fish on your account page, where was that caught? additional comment I am having the same issue with the basement door latch raising, but the door stays closed, while under tow. The door may be a bit sprung, as it is always dropping to the tether when opened. But i am not seeing any issue with the rivets at the bottom. This started on the way to/from ND to AK. However not enough for the door to open, so i just started locking it. i need to figure out what the issue is and repair it before our next outing. Bryan

I did that already. OTT installed my EZ-Flex parts at the factory, after they realized they could not install the new axles for me. 😞 I had the parts still in the box, so that was a great help.

I am going to be replacing my old Victron color display (push button) which took the place of the old Zamp solar charger. So yes, doing the same. For anyone reading the install, this is what I was trying to do without success so far, "The best place to insert a multiplus is inbetween the ATS (assuming you have a generator) or shore power input (if you don't) and the breaker panel itself. That way the shore or generator power will charge the batteries, and the inverter itself keeps the power on even without shore or generator. It also enables the power assist mode to function correctly, where you can dial down the current limit to match the available power, and then no longer need a power shedding device to avoid overload. Any outlets that have GFCI then continue to have GFCI as they should. Those that don't are probably better not to have GFCI, as heavy loads (air conditioner, electric heat) would end up often tripping the GFCI inconveniently and unnecessarily. The one drawback though is that you *must* then have the multiplus in on or charge only mode to have shore power pass through. If you turn it to OFF, there will be no power at any outlet, regardless of the presence of shore or generator power available. Also, no backfeeding. You don't want to deal with islanding, and you don't have to since the multiplus will do the right thing if wired correctly. Shore/gen (or ATS) is connected to AC IN1, and AC OUT1 goes to breaker panel. That's it. You *can* use AC OUT2 to switch additional loads based on other criteria (see relay assistant for control of ACOUT2 relay) but that would require an additional breaker as you couldn't then put that switched power through the existing breaker panel. Note that if you have an existing converter/charger plugged into power from the breaker panel, this will have to be removed/disabled to avoid setting up a loop (120->12->120->...) This is all assuming you have a single phase breaker panel, or one where the two phases have been merged with a jumper wire (also assuming 30a 120vac service here, not 50a 240/120 split, in which case get a multiplus2-2x). If you do have a 30a split panel (where an existing inverter has already been wired in) you would need to either connect it up the same way as the original inverter (one side of the split is "shore", the other side is "inverter"), or if you wanted to power everything through the multiplus (gain ability to operate aircon from battery) then you want to merge the two sides of the split (jumper between the two 30a breakers) and wire the multiplus in as above (shore/gen->ats->multiplus->breakers). I do this on a regular basis (upgrading mostly b, some c class RVs).

You should have a breaker for the inverter under the street side bed on the wheel well, looks like this. Some suggestions... 1) Did you check if the ground bonding plug is seated properly in your generator? 2) Are you running your 3500W generator on gas or propane. Because it generates only approx. 2800 continuous running watts on propane, which at 120V is approx. 23A, which should still be enough power to run your trailer without changing the Xantrex settings. Try changing the Xantrex AC input settings from the factory 25A to 20A, that would be #28 setting in the Xantrex "FXC Control" app. This setting is set to 25A at the facory because the breaker size for the inverter is 25A and the main power supply is 30A which is greater than the breaker size. When you connect to a generator or house receptical that supplies a lower amps, you need to adjust setting #28 down to match the current incoming power supply. Your smaller generator could have messed it up. 3) Like @topgun2 suggested, take a rubber mallet and tap the transfer switch box 4) If you trust your generator turn off the EMS and see if it works.

With lithium, you need to change a Xantrex setting before trying to use a small generator. The Oliver's converter (charger) will try to draw more power than the small generator can produce. So, stick with the 3500W genny for now. Also, are these inverter-type generators? Industrial jobsite generators may not produce "clean" power. If the power is drifting in and out of spec, the Oliver's electrical management system may start rejecting/accepting that power. That could be the cause of the clicking. Are you getting error codes on the display in the attic? Next, is the 3500W inverter-type generator producing electricity when not connected to the trailer? Test it with any handy electrical device. If not, the generator's circuit breaker might have tripped. If the generator is producing power, look next to the connection between the trailer and genny. As @topgun2 mentioned, some generators (inc. Honda) require a grounding plug inserted into one the the genny 15A outlets before connecting to an Oliver. If the plug isn't present the EMS will cut the power and the display in the attic will show an error code. The clicking under the dinette might be the transfer switch if you have the optional shore line connector on the front right side of your hitch near the propane tanks. What happens if you plug into the optional front shore line connector instead of the one on the driver's side? When connected to the generator does your microwave have power?

It's hard to provide an answer to this question not knowing how you connected the Honeywell thermostat to the existing wiring and whether or not you kept the Dometic control relay box in place. Lots of good info in previous posts - maybe start with the "Got Earplugs" thread I started a long time ago. Many users have posted how they converted to the Houghton from the noisy Dometic. In my case, I only use the remote control for the Houghton heat pump and still use the factory Dometic thermostat and control box to run the Suburban furnace. As I recall, the factory wiring from the thermostat to the relay box may have been digital, so there weren't enough wires to convert to a more traditional analog wiring scheme for both the Houghton and the Suburban. I also don't think there was any way to connect to the Houghton with an external thermostat (at least the model I used).

Has anyone purchased the new HONDA 3200i that has a Truma AC unit? It is rated at 3200 surge and 2800 continuous power. Will it run the AC?

A bit of quick "Google" research gets some answers. Apparently a "tin" box simply isn't as good as a box that is constructed out of a "heavier" metal - think lead here. Also, tin boxes have one or more seams from which signals can "leak". And, the lid on the metal box must fit VERY tightly in order to prevent signal from getting out. Now, why, in my experiment, the fob in the metal box could not be "seen" by the sensor(s) on either the driver's side nor the passenger side doors while it was easily seen inside the truck - I have no idea other than guessing about the strength of the sensor. This would indicate that the metal box used inside one's house could be effective in preventing a bad guy from stealing the vehicle's codes which would allow them to drive the vehicle away. I'll re-try the experiment with a box (I'll use the same one) lined with aluminum foil to see what happens even though this foil wouldn't stop signal leakage from the lid. Bill

Speaking of generators and the front storage box, ideas for security. Ideas for locking down a Honda 2000 or 2200?

To follow up -- they both fit! I still haven't tested my generator, but plan to do it some time this week.

Look under street side bunk on the battery box end. Thanks @mossemi

The Truma Soft Start device for the Aventa air conditioner is now available from the factory. I contacted Truma Headquarters and they scheduled their local factory mobile tech to do the install at my home in Scottsdale, AZ. The actual install took about 20 minutes. I ran it through several tests and I'm happy to say it performed perfectly. I'm now able to power my Aventa from a 15 amp outlet, a 20 amp outlet or my Honda eu3200i generator. Nice to have the option for Boondocking or Moochcamping. The generator is now able to run in ECO (auto load demand) mode, which enables it to run at a much lower rpm which reduces fuel consumption and noise level significantly. The unit cost $425 installed + travel time. It comes with a 2 year warranty. I don't think they have mobile technicians available everywhere so check with the factory.

I purchased a generator box from the KSH folks while we were in Lake Havasu this past winter. I particularly wanted a box for my Honda 2000 generator. For the past five years I’ve kept the generator in the Oliver basket (the older expanded aluminum version which weighed 35 pounds empty) and covered with truckers tarp material. This has worked great but the tarp has aged and would have had to be replaced in another year or so. The stock KHS box has three openings covered with removable aluminum plates so that the generator can be used inside the box. This setup is not at all water resistant and I’m not interested in using the generator so close to my trailer. I ended up getting them to make a box without the three cutouts. The box came with two hold down brackets welded in place which I removed because they were exactly in my way where I needed to mount the box. I was able to use the existing holes in the fiberglass cowling and the original stainless u bolts. The back part of the box is mounted to a 1/4 inch thick by 6 inch wide aluminum plate. The front is mounted to a 1/8 wall 1 inch by 3 inch rectangle aluminum tube. This allows the box to be level. I made two 1/4 inch aluminum spacers for the u bolts to clamp against for inside of the box. The u bolts can also be used to strap down the generator inside the box. I made two 3/8 thick by 1 1/2 inch wide brackets for under the frame. As you can see in the photos, the front bracket was made so that I can hang the safety chains on it as well.

We have the nightstand that has the lower door going into the basement. While set up camping everything stored in the basement is removed (hoses, etc) and the litter box is put in, cleaned daily from the outside opening. During transit the litter box sits on the floor behind passenger seat. Works great for us. Perhaps a fall foliage trip in NY and NH and then down to friends in NC.

I had this thought too and then there I was in our local Walmart, a box full of thin noodles! Chris is creating an Americana-Patriot theme for our interior decor, and she came up with the flag idea! I found a cheap 18" wide poly flag on Amazon. Had an old broomstick in the shed. Cut it to size and just a little sanding for the correct diameter. Used 3M spray glue and rolled it tight. Can't drill cloth, so first I used a needle tool to puncture and a center punch to widen the hole. Measured the first hole and mounted it to get the exact point for the second hole, two screws go through the wood center. It sure beats the ugly old burlap brick! Turned out pretty good. When I find a quality cotton flag, I'll do it again in a couple years. I have enough leftover noodle! 🤣

I've seen pictures of the Oliver rallies. Oliver owners that easily have twice the outdoor gear than we do, extra tables & recliner chairs, camp lights, screened rooms and so much more! Can't get a 35-gal water tank in an SUV and we don't leave home in the SW w/o extra water. We don't pack an extra fridge, no generator, lots of available space in the bed. We love our GX470 too and the two cars and two other trucks we have on the property. I have not spent a year (cannot) without a pickup truck since I bought my first one 40 years ago. My best friend from high school said at the time, "What took you so long?" I always get a chuckle watching SUV owners load up at the Depot! 🤣 As they are busy making room, I quickly load my purchases in the bed and drive off. Ya gotta admit the back of your truck is quite full near GVWR and you could not get me or my wife to spend one night in that other camper! After we pack for a trip, our TV has 1300 LBS available GVWR and our Oliver sits under 6400 LBS. It's easier with a pickup and safer not to push the limits.

No , pics ( I’m not computer savvy). There were about three or four wires going to this little black relay box.. on the Elite 1 it was mounted by the battery box.. don’t know about LE II