Search the Community

If the unit is not secured using screws, how do you know that it is still level after changing batteries? Do you relevel the trailer each time? It seems as if screw mounting would be most trouble free in the long run. I wish the small aftermarket manufacturers would use better looking and smaller boxes, most I have seen are ugly, kludgy in operation and way to large, like a project box from Radio Shack. The LevelMate looks crude with the protruding screw ears…. Here is the Fridge Defend box: Isotherm gets it “almost” right, it is very slick, except for the bizarre curved smily face shape and the flashlight bright LED numbers, which I had to cover. How satisfied are owners with the LevelMate appearance? Maybe a white version would work better, or just paint the box…. John Davies Spokane WA

All, I ran into the same problem this last trip. My generator would not work at high altitude so I tried to run my microwave of the my 2000 watt inverter, I have 4X 6V batteries and I remembered early when I got the trailer I was able to run the microwave for a few minutes so I could heat up a cup of coffee. Now it shuts down almost immediately and I checked the cut off voltage and it was 0V and I could NOT reset it to 12V. It stayed at 0V! So should I try the hard reboot on the inverter? Any ideas? Imelda

I recently had my original gas regulator die on Hull 505. I wasn't paying close attention when I ordered the replacement and ended up ordering one with a lower BTU Rating. The original Hull 505 part - GR-9984XF with 345,000 BTU from the Main Service Cylinder is what I should have ordered. The replacement part - GR-9994XF has 262,500 BTU from the Main Service Cylinder is what I have now sitting in a box. Since I learned of my error, I've ordered the original part and left the other new in the original box. I can't return it as the time's expired for exchange. Net Result: I have a NEW in Box GR-9994XF sitting in my garage. I'm wondering if the GR-9994XF would work as a spare for those of you with newer trailers that no longer have the Gas Fridge? If you're interested in the unit...send me a private message and we can work out details. Craig Short

I own both the Champion 3500W and now the 2500W Generator. I wanted to mod both to run off the Quick Connects from the Oliver...and also still have the ability to quickly setup with stand alone propane tanks for other applications. Both use the 2500W and 3500W us a dual stage regulator propane hose (one with the little finger, one without.) The first stage small regulator connects to a standard propane tank with the larger plastic ACME fitting. The first stage regulator knocks down the high pressure from stand alone propane tanks in prep for the larger diameter second stage regulator. This second stage (much larger size) provides a more precise regulation needed for the generator under various load situations. Stage 2 is really a flow regulator. It doesn't change pressure, it just restricts the amount of gas that flows into the generator. Without it you basically flood the generator with gas and it won't start. To make the Generator work with the quick connects from the trailer, one must remove that smaller first stage regulator. The Oliver Quick connects are already regulated to the correct pressure for the larger second stage regulator on the generator propane cable shipped with the Champion Dual Fuel Generators. In my case, I've disassembled the original dual stage and broken it into two pieces at the coupler between the stage 1 and stage 2 regulators. 1) The second stage regulator has been modified to have a quick connect male feeding into the larger regulator. That stage 2 regulator now connects to my long extension hoses that attach to the female quick connects on the trailer. 2) The first stage regulator is then coupled to a FEMALE quick connect for re-use with stand alone propane tanks. Shown below: First stage regulator with ACME fitting is modified to have a female quick connect coupler. The benefit of this mod is that I still am able to use stand alone 20lb propane tank by coupling the modified smaller regulator to the tank, and the larger stage 2 regulator hose to that this modified coupler. This may be a repeat but I was writing up for my blog anyway so thought I'd post it here. Craig Hull 505

I am stupid! Can you explain more about this? I thought all I had to do was use a 30amp to 15amp adaptor and plug the OTT into the generator and it would work. When you say I ALSO need a ground plug that is connected into one of the other generator receptacle, what do you mean?

Very ironic/timely comment here. A few months ago, we experienced the launching of our middle right galley drawer onto the deck after perhaps taking a few windy curves a bit too fast and having WAY too many cooking pots/pans inside of it. The forces ripped the locking mechanisms from their mounting positions underneath the drawer held there by two (IMO) very small wood screws. The "toothpick temporary" fix was executed in situ while camping that afternoon. Until just yesterday, we removed all the drawers to inspect for potential water damage as suggested by another forum thread, only to find that the toothpick fix was not holding. So we removed the short factory-installed drawer screws and replaced them with 3/4" wood screws that reach into the drawer fronts. It's suspected that the factory builds the drawers, installs the rail hardware before they attach the drawer fronts - makes sense to use shorter screws that don't penetrate the drawer box. But who knows? The longer attachment screws are just another effort to achieve a "peace of mind" knowing they'll last a bit longer. IMO, the longer screws with the Raingly Footman Loops/straps make the drawer system more bomb-proof when towing. My $0.02.

We keep a PEX repair kit with extra pipe, inner & outer pre-packed wheel bearings & seal, and small tool box for mechanical/electrical repairs on the road. Used to carry some things we did not need, so that stuff now stays at home.

My nice RV mechanic suggested I place the Honda generator I plan on ordering on the bumper? What would be the best rack? Thank you!!

The LEII's that are currently being built come with the 5200 pound axles. However, they have the four leaf 3500 pound spring packs rather than the 5 leaf spring packs that normally are supplied with the larger axles. Therefore the GVWR of the trailer remains at 7000 pounds rather than 10,400 pounds that the 5200 pound axles would usually provide. When we had Hull #050 built in 2013-14, I specified the 5200 pound axles. This does provide for a larger GVWR but it also adds more weight. With other modifications we had done (raised bed platforms, heavier tires), every time I've weighed it, with a full tank of water, full 30 pound propane tanks, 3000 watt generator sitting in the tongue basket, configured ready to camp with food and clothing it will come in at around 7200 pounds. Although at least one owner claims his camping weight to be below 5000 pounds, I would consider that our trailer and his trailer are definitely outliers. Most all the LEII's will weight 6000 pounds or better.

We should be picking up our 2022 Ollie Elite II the middle of June 2022 (one month out) and was considering when to purchase a generator when needed and which generator to purchase. Would this Champion Generator be enough power to run the AC, say at a bluegrass festival, should we need AC in the summer months?! Looking at the refurbished generators on this site. Thanks for any help or experience you can share. Thanks, Vic Shumate #1132 https://factorypure.com/products/champion-100204-2800w-3100w-inverter-dual-fuel-electric-start-generator-manufacturer-rfb?variant=1218380562457&cmp_id=6444139172&adg_id=75812937574&kwd=&device=c&campaign=6444139172&content=376909439927&keyword=&gclid=Cj0KCQjwmuiTBhDoARIsAPiv6L_T1r9Woa-Ux3fKfusmOyn71iByqI0si8m8I9M6DfdJqZ7JdN7XLOcaAistEALw_wcB

I have been looking for an alternative to the original Oliver box that likes to mash my bumper - my fault as I turned to sharp. This just might be it. Looks good.

Out boondocking for a week. On fifth day noticed battery level has dropped to a level of concern. Question is, with my Honda portable generator…is there any special tricks I need to perform to do this right? we’re way north in NH IN THE Great North Woods Appreciate any feedback

@Brian and Brandelyne very nice, is that the 49” UWS aluminum box, do you have a link for it?

Ok, after much consideration and some mentoring from @mountainoliver I finally purchased and installed a storage box for my trailer tongue. It was not the least expensive option but I got an incredible deal on it through a local vendor (truck parts/accessories store). These have an insulated top, one hand opening feature and are very well made. Thank you for all the ideas and suggestions on this thread. Brian

Generator box - Has anyone made their own and if so any suggestions? It is my intent to put this box where the storage box from Oliver goes. I want the generator completely enclosed with a cover that opens. It will have vents for air to come through and exhaust to get out. Our generator runs on gas or propane.

Yet another excellent post for learning! That closet is where I stowed my telescoping ladder, tool box, tackle box, a portable fan, bucket, dirty laundry bag, shoes, extra peat and TP. All my clothes fit in the rear-most overhead compartment above the TV. I'll move those tools out of there. I've carried several 1-gallon jugs of water on the floor but I tucked them under the dining table, and they stayed put. I don't tow with water in the tank, and I have a composting toilet so I don't carry black water either. I do have the solar lithium batteries. What makes the starboard side heavy -- is it the appliances? So this is all new to me for consideration, the caution of keeping weight off the tongue (in the trailer, and I'm assuming ALSO in the rear-most part of the truck bed?) but ALSO not letting the tongue be too light? What? I've already started weighing my gear etc and have it on a spreadsheet, organized by where I had planned to carry it all (for ease of finding it as well as keeping tabs on my payload and overall trailer weight). Is there a recommended tutorial on this topic?

True, no matter what brand or single/dual/tri fuel genset you buy. Plus, most of the old school "contactor " type generators have a total harmonic distortion so high that it can kill electronics and circuit boards. Something to check on any cheaper brand you look into. Under 5 per cent is most like clean household power supply. A friend of mine lost power for a day awhile ago, and I loaned him my Honda to run his fridge, on an extension cord, so he wouldn't lose his food. Now he wants a bigger generator for backup. He saw a cheap big open frame contractor type genset at a big box store, and sent me a photo. My response: Not only would his neighbors hate him, because of the noise, but THD was up to 25 per cent (of course not listed in specifications. ) He's going to keep looking, naturally. Most inverter gensets, even many of the cheap ones, like my spare Westinghouse, have decent decibel ratings, and decent thd ratings. If they don't, give a pass.

I see you have a 2019 LE II. Oliver only offered flooded/AGM batteries and the 45 amp converter/charger in 2019. Do you still have the flooded batteries with the 45 amp converter charger? If so, then anything larger than the little Honda EU1000i would be overkill for battery charging. A 45 amp converter charger will only be able to charge your batteries at a maximum rate of about 650 watts (45 amps charging current * 14.5 volt maximum charging voltage) regardless of how large your generator is. Assuming 10 percent losses in the conversion from 120 volts from the generator to the 14.5 volt charge current, the maximum generator size needed to charge your batteries is about 725 watts (650 watts / 0.9). If you have only two flooded batteries, then they won't even be able to accept a full 45 amp charging current. Even after adding the tri-fuel conversion kit to the EU1000i, it should still put out a continuous 800 watts when running on propane. More than enough to charge your batteries at the fastest rate possible while simultaneously running the furnace and a few lights. Any larger generator will not charge your batteries any faster (unless you convert to Lithium batteries and an inverter/charger with a higher charging current capability). If the above accurately describes the configuration of your Ollie with the original 45 watt converter/charger and flooded/AGM batteries, you may want to consider the little Honda EU1000i with the conversion kit. It is significantly lighter and much quieter than even the Honda EU 2200i. (I know because I own both). It is expensive though.

I agree with the points above, although it wasn't clear from your post whether or not you will focus on full service campgrounds or boon docking. Although I didn't see it specifically mentioned, I will assume the larger Oliver Elite II. For boon docking: 1. Get the most electrical power you can. This means at least the Lithium Pro package and preferably the Platinum package. 2. Get the composting toilet (Nature's Head). It is a learning experience but it is better for off-grid camping of more than a couple of days. For full hookup style camping: 1. You should at least get solar and the AGM batteries because there will always be some situations where hookups are not available (e.g., Harvest Host). 2. The standard flush toilet is easier than the composting toilet to use. For a TV: Get a 3/4 ton or bigger. You don't need a weight distribution hitch (WDH) and you can carry more cargo. Regarding diesel vs gas, modern diesels are much more powerful and fuel efficient, meaning you will get more range on a tank of gas. If you plan some long rural trips such as to Alaska this could be the thing that helps you avoid getting stranded. OTOH, gas vehicles are less expensive and finding repair facilities is easier. Either type of heavy duty tow vehicle will get you over the western mountains, although the diesel will do it with more ease. A half ton will require a WDH. Anything lighter may not leave you with enough payload. Be aware that if you violate vehicle towing/weight limits and get into an accident, you may have trouble getting insurance to pay, trouble with any lawsuits against you, and you will be at least partially at fault in any accident. Regarding the air conditioner: Many of the current owners have been forced to upgrade from the Dometic Penguin to another solution due to the "near jet engine" noise level. The three are the Oliver-installed Truma Aventa, the Houghton RecPro, and the Dometic FreshJet. The Houghton and FreshJet are not supported by Oliver, and the upgrade after-sale to the Truma Aventa is around $3,600. If AC is important to you, don't skimp on this option. Regarding the Oliver hitch: We did not opt for this, but now regret it because I have resumed bicycle riding. Getting it after sale was quoted at $1,125. It's probably cheaper if you just check the box on the options sheet. Regarding research: I studied the market looking for the ideal trailer for our goals which are very similar to yours. At one point I was thinking of an Airstream Classic. I found Oliver on line by accident. Having already seen all of the Airstream models we took a factory tour at Oliver. By the time we left Hohenwald we had our OEII on order. After having been in many other makes and models at various dealers and RV shows, being inside an OEII (twin) just plain felt right to both of us. Quality is extremely important to me and the OEII definitely measures up. We've put over 13.5K miles on it touring the nation and have no regrets. That said, after deciding, I spent the next nine months (order duration during 2020-2021) studying all of the owners manuals. I also spent a considerable amount of time before that studying tow vehicles and the science of towing, including all of the various measurements (GVWR, GCWR, etc.), evaluating vehicles to decide which would actually do for the kind of towing we had planned.

Has anyone used this vendor for a custom box? If so, what dimensions did you go with? With the hindsight of having had this vendor build a box for you, any insights you can share with us? My inclination would be to go with a smaller box than the lighter commercial boxes shown in previous posts ... just enough for chocks and a few commonly used setup tools & supplies.

Just about finished installing the cargo box we ordered from Amazon. FYI: Used 6 each, 1 1/4" self-tapping screws with lock washers over a 1/8" x 2" x 18" aluminum band across the back (port/stbd) to distribute the load. Used a shorter 8" piece (fore/aft) in the center. A single screw with a fender washer was used for the forward-most position over the A-frame where a spacer was used under the box. We're using the box to secure items such as OTT 30A Furrion power cord & adapters, surge protector, fresh water hose/filter, plastic "Leggo" blocks, wheel chocks, torque wrench, Magnus' cable lanyard, and there's room left over. Thanks to @John E Davies, @ScubaRx, @Ollie-Haus and others for their suggestions and recommendations... We also think this idea will be a game changer for better access to items needed for set-up. Beats the "deep knee squat - bending over drill" to pull boxes out of the rear storage compartment! HA! IMG_7354.HEIC IMG_7353.HEIC

That is why I ultimately invested in a second Champion Dual Fuel 2200 watt generator and a splitter so I could run both from one 5-gallon propane tank. The lower output on propane requires the second inverter/generator to run our Truma AC (which has no easy start installed).

Without the Neutral-Ground Bonding Plug, NO 120V AC plug should be "hot" with only the generator running. This has nothing to do with the plug itself but rather the nature of the wiring of RV units. Without the plug no electricity from the generator can get past the EMS. This is not necessary when on shore power.

I thought some of you might like reading this. Here are some of the top generator brands made in the USA. Generac Craftsman Kohler Briggs and Stratton Cummins https://thesavvycampers.com/where-are-champion-generators-made/ While the generator brands mentioned below do not have their headquarters in China, many of them still produce at least a few components overseas. Kohler – Kohler is a very reliable generator brand with its headquarters in Wisconsin, U.S.A. The brand has manufacturing facilities in Wisconsin and other states to account for high demand. Generac – Generac generators are proudly made in the United States, more specifically Wisconsin at their many manufacturing facilities. Onan – Elkhart, Indiana, is the epicenter of production for Onan generators, but in 2010, Onan outsourced the production of engines and other parts to China. Like so many other brands, the sticker will say made in the United States, but certain parts likely get produced in China. Honda – Honda is one of the best generator brands you can purchase, and they are made entirely in Japan. Japan has a reputation for producing reliable and excellent small engine products, and their generators are no exception. Champion – Champion generators are made and designed in America, but their engines get produced in China. Like many other brands, Champion will say that they undergo production in America, but this isn’t completely true. Pulsar – Pulsar generators are great products and get produced in Ontario, Canada. Pulsar generators are comparable to some of the top brands in the U.S. and Japan and have a much-deserved reputation of excellence. Their base of operations isn’t in the United States, but they’re still American-made. Westinghouse – Westinghouse is one of the oldest manufacturers of electronics and generators in the world. They are based in the heart of Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania, and produce thousands of products, including generators. Craftsman – Craftsman generators, like the parent company Generac, is an American-based brand that produces excellent generators. Craftsman is a more affordable version of Generac, the leading manufacturer of generators in the world. Predator – Predator generators are an American product that gets produced by the American tool manufacturing company Harbor Freight Tools. While they have a reputation for producing cheap but decent tools and products, generators are no exception. They come at a lower price and will have a quality and lifespan that reflects that price. https://pickgenerators.com/generators-made-in-china/

@topgun2: It sure is, Bill! @Wandering Sagebrush: Are your white back-up lights visible from under the box? It's hard to see from that angle... Can you carry bikes up top? Pretty cool set-up.