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With new truck and new Lithium battery trying to figure out a way of disconnecting the charging circuit from the TV. I don't have an electrical schematic for our #70 Ollie and since Ford has been no help in determining what if any fuses are associated with this task figured I might as well tackle this from the receiving end of things. The question then, how does one determine what wire (color) and where to make this disconnect within the trailer? Presumably the wire in question would be terminated in the breaker panel box but nothing is labeled accordingly on my unit. Or does the TV charge wire go straight to the solar charge controller? I wouldn't think so but does't hurt to ask. Thanks

I'm not sure if this will help as I don't know if a 2017 trailer was wired the same way as my 2020 trailer. I disconnected my charge wire when I upgraded to lithium batteries a few months ago. Mine did not have a bus bar. I couldn't find anything under the seats or bed. Inside the bathroom access panel under the sink I found that my 7-pin cable entered a standard galvanized steel junction box containing all of the connectors. Each was connected with a Wago lever connector and then wrapped with electrical tape to safeguard the lever coming undone from vibration. I just found the black charging wire, unwrapped the tape and lifted the lever on the connector to pull the wire. I capped it, taped it and then put everything else back together. Oliver's electrical connection design was less than elegant but it made for an easy disconnect once I found the junction box.

Received the Dometic CFX5 45L fridge yesterday. Love it, fits like a glove exactly where I want it! Right know I have it propped up on 4x4s. It cannot sit flat on the floor of the truck bed. Wish it could, but the wheel well is in the way in one corner where if lifted 3 1/2" it will clear sitting at this height. Just under the toolbox lid, so it works! I may buy the Dometic insulated cover or rig something. It will be sooooo great to have cold water an arms length away while traveling, perfect location near the passenger door. No more going back in the Oliver after forgetting to grab water for the trip. No more water bottles in the Oliver fridge which will free up space and when shopping we can just put the cold goods here and not have to go into the Oliver and rearrange the fridge (again)! Swimming in my head is a complete installation that I do not have time for now, since a week from today we will be meeting up in the AZ high country with two other Olivers! I want it connected to our DC-DC charger wiring which I can intercept under the truck bed. I purchased a flexible solar panel which will be mounted on the toolbox and I have a decent 105Ah AGM lying around that can be installed inside the toolbox. More on that later! I have a question for @Ronbrink or anybody else that has owned the Dometic CFX. Can the AC and DC connections be wired simultaneously and will one circuit preempt the other? I want to have the DC wired and connected but wondering if I later connect an extension cord from the Oliver 110V outlet, will the AC supply take over and not draw from the DC batteries? Temp solution: run off the truck batteries and generator while towing, plug it in when at camp off house batteries and inverter. This model draws 8A on 12VDC. The other thing that I believe Ron did with his DC-DC charger installation is to install a relay that cuts off the DC-DC connection when the truck ignition is off. I'm going to need this feature when completing our full installation, so that the fridge will not draw from the truck starter batteries when parked. All the details of a robust installation is still a bit foggy! 🤣

While charging on the generator, the 25 amp circuit breaker on the Zantrex 3000 inverter keeps tripping. I’m running the generator and the inverter switch ON I’m using a champion 3400 W generator and running the air conditioner simultaneously. Could it be the charger and the air conditioner are pulling too many amps simultaneously tripping the breaker? I’m going to try charging only, with the air conditioner off and inverter switch OFF any thoughts? Mark

These are the lights we replaced the lights over the sink and stove. It has a on/off button in the center, blue night light and dimmable light. Box of 4 so I have 2 more if the others fail. We did have a problem with the one over the dinette. I removed the dome, and re-alligned the spring, and we have had no further issues. The key is just a light touch, not pushing on the dome.

Hello kids, I have been having trouble with my Honda genset and am thinking about going to a Predator 5000 wat dual fuel, now 1099 at Harbor Chinese Freight. Does anyone have experience with one of these units, and does it require a bonding plug? Thanks!

Ha! I've got a Victron Multiplus II in a DIY "Electric Solar Generator" or whatever you call those portable Bluetti, Jakery, Goal Zero boxes. Thanks for the reply. I would definitely reach out here for a head check, but I'm really curious about the "emergency" option of being able to talk to Oliver support and possibly order parts from them if needed. If I remember correctly, I've seen a few threads where folks mentioned running plans past the support team, I'd feel more comfortable if I had that in my back pocket as an option. Is that a thing they do?

Good point. I believe running on propane derates the generator by a bit. With a 3400W unit, maybe enough to cause an overload in this situation, but I was wondering why it wasn't tripping the breaker on the generator. Now, after @Snackchaser's excellent explanation I'm wondering if an unbonded generator is preventing the generator's built in breaker from tripping, causing the Oliver's internal breaker to trip instead. However, the Progressive power protection should not have let him connect an unbonded generator in the first place, so maybe the generator's breaker is faulty?

Hi Mark, There could be a number of reasons why the 25 amp Inverter breaker is tripping. However, assuming that the Air Conditioning and Charger are otherwise working fine, then the most likely reasons are the inverter settings, the breaker, or the generator. It’s helpful to understand that all AC loads (except the refrigerator) pass-through the inverter, and it automatically prioritizes current to the AC loads over charging. So when the 20 amp Air Conditioner is passing through, it throttles down the charger amps to prevent overcurrent. The inverter charge current demand is highest when the battery is discharged, so it might just be overworking the inverter enough to trip the breaker’s thermo element when running the Air Conditioner with a discharged battery. If the battery is not fully discharged, and it’s still tripping, then read on. BTW, if the inverter is turned-on while using shore or generator power, it only means that it will automatically transfer to battery power if shore power fails. Also, the generator neutral bonding will not impact the current or breaker, but it’s required by code. I have 4 troubleshooting suggestions. Items 3 and 4 will require some experimentation with the inverter settings and this is best done using the Xantrex phone app. These settings will not harm anything, but they will reduce inverter output to match the capacity of your generator. It’s a low probability that the 25 amp breaker is bad, but it is a possibility because the inverter should warn you and shut down when it nears it maximum output… before the breaker trips. A quick assessment can be made without an amp meter. If it’s tripping instantly, it means the magnetic short circuit trip function is probably bad and the breaker should be replaced. If it trips’s after some time, and it can easily re-set after cooldown, then it’s tripping on the thermo function and it’s probably okay. The generator is big enough to handle your loads, but it could be that the regulator is not working properly. Verify that it’s increasing RPMs when the load increases. You can also check the input voltage on the Xantrex display, it should be close to 120 volts. The inverter’s charger current setting is too high (Setting 24.) The default setting is 150 amps, but it’s not an amp to amp conversion. I’d set it to 30 amps and if the breaker no longer trips, then dial it up in 20 amp increments until you find a trip-less value. I had to change this setting on my inverter because it was drawing more current than my 2000 watt generator could supply, and I was getting low voltage brown outs. It would have probably tripped the breaker eventually, but the generator tripped first. I think I finally set it to 60 amps. The inverter’s AC input breaker setting is too high (Setting 28.) This impacts the load prioritization ratio. The default setting is 50 amps so you can start by setting it to 25 amps to see if that works. If so, then dial it up in 5 amp increments until you find a value below the breaker trip value. Note: I’d change settings 24 and 28 at the same time, then dial them up until you find a an acceptable value where the breaker does not trip. I hope that helps! Cheers, Geoff

This long awaited swap-mod is now checked off my to-do list! Like many, I tolerated the noisy Dometic Penguin ll long enough; so glad I was finally able to take decisive action with this install. After a couple years of mulling over the various replacement models being marketed, a unit emerged that caught my attention; the newly available Atmos 4.4 seemingly met all of my expectations. I will forego the removal of the Dometic, here is how I proceeded forward: First and foremost, all AC and DC power sources were turned OFF! Scaffolding and equipment/supplies were then staged for Dometic ‘liftoff’ and subsequent Atmos ‘lunar landing’ (only appropriate since I live a couple miles from the NASA Mission Control Center in Houston). Roof area in need of cleaning. Notice the raised fiberglass landing on my year model and that the former condensate drain tube was simply disconnected rather than cutoff. Roof area throughly cleaned and prepped. I decided to adhere the square self-adhesive foam roof seal directly onto the fiberglass and then apply non-leveling Dicor around the cutout perimeter to further ensure the best seal possible. In positioning the foam seal, care was taken to center it as evenly possible, thereby allowing about 1/4-3/8” of exposed fiberglass to lay a bead of the Dicor and finger smooth to finish. Interior view of the Atmos being positioned over the roof cutout. Note the use of the mounting bolts as a guide, as recommended by SDG. Because the ‘rough cut’ edges of the layers of fiberglass (inner and outer hulls, and spacial filler) were inconsistent, I used the foam seal as a reference to accurately center and align the unit; distances measured to each respective bolt. Initially, installation instructions were followed by adhering the supplied straight piece of self-adhesive foam onto the bottom of the unit as a rear support, but it did not make contact with the roof due to relief of the aforementioned fiberglass landing. Alternatively, the foam piece was cut in half and each adhered onto the fiberglass, in like manner as the square seal, along the outer edges of said landing. This adaptation proved very effective in application and purpose, as the last of the next three pics demonstrates. Now that the exterior unit is properly positioned and supported, it’s back inside to further installation. As a side note, I made use of a portable a/c to buffer the heat and humidity of the day! Although my son helped with the heavy lifting and positioning, I cut him loose and completed the remaining tasks solo. Before proceeding, I used foil tape to treat the end of the aforementioned condensate drain tube and secure it to the side. Next the installation of the fabric air plate duct subassembly was started (provided Dreiha Atmos 4.4 Manual details the process). Note I used foil tape on both the upper (at Atmos bottom) and lower (at mounting frame) duct plates, even though most installs viewed applied to the mounting frame plate only. Between the upper and lower duct plate installs, the ceiling assembly mounting frame was bolted in place and hand torqued using a screwdriver only (torque specified in Manual). The AC power connection was very straightforward. The ceiling assembly’s junction box cover was removed, a strain relief fitting installed at one end (the other end had a preinstalled protector) and respective wires routed inside. I reused the Wago Lever-Nuts from the Dometic install, but first tinned the stranded wires of the Atmos lead for optimum assurance in application; electrical tape was used to further secure the Wago connectors. Ground wires were secured per the Manual. The junction box cover was then replaced, DC thermostat wire bundle loom wrapped and tucked away for future use, and ceiling grille fastened in place. . I’m very pleased with this mod, quality of the Atmos and ease of installation! I should mention that SDG preinstalled a SoftStartRV. I will provide an update once the furnace wiring and thermostat mount is completed. A special shoutout to @rideadeuce for forging the way with his install of an Atmos!

Hello. I have a 2024 F150 Lariat Powerboost hybrid. I bought the hybrid to get the 7.2kW generator with the 30amp plug in the bed. I have not yet used the 30 Amp setup, but have used the 20 Amp outlets in generator mode. It's a bit quirky - you need to leave the truck "on" for the generator to power the outlets. It's not smart enough to turn off the radio and it stays bluetooth connected to my phone. I've used it to power a portable refrigerator (IceCo). It's probably good to leave the AC on in the summer, as the cab gets hot trying to keep the inverter cool. I get between 9 & 10 miles/gal when towing the Legacy Elite 2. Wind direction affects mileage quite a bit. This is not much better mileage than I got with my 2006 Nissan Titan with a V8. Even when not towing the trailer, the mileage is probably about the same as you'd get with a regular V6 Ecoboost - probably due to the added battery weight. It doesn't run on pure battery very often. Only at really low speed on flat ground or downhill. Again, I didn't buy it for hybrid driving reasons - I wanted the big generator and 30Amp capability. I believe the Powerboost ONLY comes in the 5.5ft bed and crew cab, independent of the trim line. This is why there are no 6.5ft beds on dealer lots. I've had it 7 mo so far and like it. It is loaded with tech (most of which I don't need), but I really wanted ventilated seats. I'll post more once we've used the 30Amps for boondocking.

My hoist is a basic Ultra-Tow 1000# capacity hydraulic truck crane from Northern Tool, to which I added a strap hand crank winch and modified the arm end with rollers for ease of lifting. I think a strap, rather than wire rope, would serve you better; less abrasive and more user friendly. Whether looping around the handles on my 75L Dometic DZ cooler fully loaded, frames of our expensive ebikes, handle/valve guards on 30# propane tanks or the plastic molded generator handles; worry of marring is completely eliminated. However, lifting straps could be used in conjunction with a wire rope setup, and that product you linked may meet needs you have other than just camping. Proper reach from the truck bed to a point directly over the propane tank housing is important, but the post height could definitely be reduced, as you eluded. No regrets installing my hoist within months after Oliver ownership, its been a real back saver! And now it is proving to be even more useful in lifting the cargo boxes in and out of the Savana van. Here’s a few pics to ponder:

This being my first season of use, I am still in the process of learning the proper procedures for many tasks. My trips so far, both on and off grid, were successful with minimal issues. As I approach the summer season, I purchased the Honda eu2200i companion generator to ensure I will meet the power needs when air conditioning may be used extensively. I’d like advice regarding my understanding of the proper process for connecting generator power to the trailer. Here is the current process I have put together, please tell me where I’m missing anything: Turn of AC devices in the trailer and secure the trailer main AC power breaker Set up the generator to run per the instructions Connect neutral ground plug into the 120v 20 amp generator connection Connect the 30 amp cord supply side to the 120v 30 amp generator connection with a locking adapter (noting that it will only be sending 20 amps) Connect the 30 amp cord to the trailer connection Start the generator to run at normal setting (not eco) Re-engage the trailer main AC breaker Given these steps, the generator will be providing shore power at ~20 amps which should run necessary AC functions (with the exception of the air conditioner) and will also charge the lithium batteries alongside the solar charging. Do I need to alter any settings in the xantrex controller app to ensure safe operation under this shore power configuration? My hull (#1056) has the Truma air conditioner retrofitted into it. As I understand it, my eardrums should be grateful to the previous owners. In order to use the air conditioner while using the 2200i, I will either need a soft start installed inside the Truma (all signs point to this not currently being the case) or I can use the inline soft start product in between the generator and the trailer. I appreciate your guidance.

The following was copied from a former post and provided herein to better consolidate progressive modifications to the Savana in regards to the opening statement: “Ultimately, two storage boxes were acquired to safely stow much of the cargo; specifically, underbody tool boxes.” Cargo Securement Assurance/General Discussion Posted December 14, 2024 When towing with a truck, the majority of ‘stuff’ brought along on a camping trip or road adventure is conveniently stowed within the various holds of the Oliver and bed of the TV. However, even though my former crew cab Silverado 1500 had a storage box under the rear seat, it was mostly used to accommodate service tools and supplies for the truck and thus, found myself utilizing the rear floorboards and seat as additional cargo space when traveling. There’s peace of mind knowing cargo carried in the bed of a truck is adequately secured, not so much for that behind the front seats! All one needs is something going on from behind when something tragic is happening up front, no bueno! We’re required to wear seatbelts for good reason, proper securement of vehicle interior cargo should be of equal importance. I would be interested in learning how owners with trucks/SUVs safely carry their cargo within. My awareness of cargo securement was heightened recently with acquisition of a converted cargo work van as my TV; specifics are detailed in a forum post last October under ‘Towing an Oliver’ and titled ‘2019 GMC Savana 2500 Cargo Van’, if interested. Unlike service utility work vans that generally have a partition or cargo net, along with containment shelves and boxes, to secure cargo and ensure personal safety; conversion and passenger vans are more designed for ‘people’ cargo. In the aforementioned forum post, I addressed cargo containment, but cargo securement was still under consideration. Here is what I did to address the subject matter: Maiden voyage to Texas Oliver Rally, Inks Lake SP; cargo contained, but not secured! DC CARGO E-Track system components were obtained via online purchases from Tractor Supply. Each of the Buyers Products boxes were fitted with six of these brackets, three at the top of each end. A 1/4” x 8” aluminum backing plate was used to attach and strengthen these mounts. Backing plate cut to size, holes drilled and tapped for mounting bolts. Containment boxes prepped for backing plate and E-Track bracket installation. Super Sliders affixed to bottom of containment boxes for ease of handling on interior carpet. Three E-Tract rails fastened to deck to accommodate securement straps. Aluminum plate at floor level is runway for folded e-bikes. This box was slid rearward once back box was removed for storage at COW Barn. It primarily contains items typically kept in the TV with additional storage space, as needed, a trunk per se. Ratchet straps best used for non-towing vehicle use. Box securement once e-bikes are deployed. Wider Cam straps best used for e-bikes and subsequent box securement when traveling. Rear box is for camping ‘stuff’, forward as a trunk and more ‘stuff’. Driver’s side box securement using ratchet straps. View of e-bikes ready for ‘takeoff’ on runway! Cam strap securing e-bike. Ratchet straps for spare propane tank, generator and other needs. Items too long for the containment boxes are stowed behind at side panel. Oliver-mounted hoist used to transfer box at storage facility. TV moved forward to enable box positioning. Cam straps used for the lift. Containment box lowered onto platform cart. Liking the modular containment storage.

Is the below search info below not correct? I am thinking you would set the Xantrex to only input 15 amps from shore power or generator then it would kick in and provide the next 10 amps or so with a 3000 watt inverter? How would the Xantrex know the difference between shore power and generator? Yes, Xantrex has a feature similar to Victron's Power Assist. Xantrex Freedom SW inverters and chargers include a "Generator Support Mode" that enables the unit to assist a generator when AC loads exceed its capacity. This functionality allows the inverter/charger to provide additional power from the batteries to supplement the generator, similar to how Victron's Power Assist uses battery power to supplement a limited input. Here's a more detailed explanation: Victron's Power Assist: This feature allows you to adjust the input current to a level lower than the output power without affecting output power. It allows the inverter/charger to use battery power to supplement a limited input like shore power or a generator. Xantrex's Generator Support Mode: This mode is specifically designed for RVs and boats. When using a generator, it allows the inverter/charger to draw power from the batteries to assist the generator when AC loads exceed its capacity. Key Difference: While both achieve the same goal of supplementing a limited power source, Xantrex's Generator Support Mode is more focused on generators and RV applications, whereas Victron's Power Assist can be used with various power sources.

This spring as we were prepping for a new road trip, I noticed the battery box door seemed to be sticking out further than normal. I thought I would adjust the latch to pull the door in a bit tighter. What I found was that the battery box had started to tip forward away from the main hull as shown the pix below. All the rivets up both sides and all across the top of the box had sheared and the box was tipped out about 1/2". I contacted Oliver Support to understand how the box was designed, mounted etc. They cleared me for travel after having me check the support strut inside the trailer (under the pantry area) . After some further consultation I was able to perform a repair. Here's a sketch of how the battery box is installed in our Hull 505 (2019 Elite II) trailer. The repair steps I took following Oliver instructions were: 1) Remove the batteries from the slide tray to get weight off the box. 2) Drill out all sheared rivets. (3/16" bit) 3) Release the 2 support bracket bolts inside the trailer under the pantry (one of which is adjustable). (This step is a pain and requires some long extensions for the ratchet wrench to make reaching nuts possible.) 4) Tip box back into position. (Check that the box base still has a slight outward tip for water drainage.) 5) Re-tighten support bolts. 6) Re-rivet all around the perimeter. 7) Clean seams and add a bead of boat life white sealant around the battery box seam. (See pix below). Repaired Box Above: Door closes with a good seal all around and the box sealed to the body. We are going to keep an eye on this as we travel this next year, and make a trip to the Oliver factory for them to inspect and repair if necessary. I'm not sure of the root cause or mechanism by which the box tipped out in the first place. One concern would be that the box is putting too much pressure on the outer hull while bouncing down the highway. I don't see any indications of cracking in the glass hull or box at this point. Hope this helps if anyone else see's an issue. Craig Hull 505

Amazon delivered this today. As soon as my bride/copilot saw it she said “that will get it done. We store our Oliver here at home plugged in 24/7. Instructions say allow the unit to sit upright for 2 hrs. Not being in a rush, and taking solid advice from @Ollie-Haus. It arrived really well packaged and in its original box in side another Amazon box. It did not arrive upright in the box. (pic) I will let this “humidity eater beast” sit overnight upright to allow the all fluids to drain back properly. We are looking forward to firing this up and giving it a shake down right here at home and then afield. Let’s just say the humidity level is what we call “swampy high” right now with this heatwave. Thanks Chris for the recommendation! 👍🏻

I just completed installation of a Victron Smart Orion 30 amp isolated DC to DC charger after reading all the great information provided in this forum by MAX Burner, and others. I really appreciated all their groundwork and details, so I wanted to share some of my experiences in the hope that others will find it useful. I used #4 AWG wire for ease of installation and for better termination options. BatteryCablesUSA recommended their “Jumper Cable” wire and it was the best deal I found at $197 for 55’ x 2. It consists of a black and red cable joined together like zip cord, and it’s flexible enough to lay flat under it’s own weight. Their lugs and heat shrink were also reasonably priced. I sheathed the full length of the cable with 3/4” braided cable sheath for extra protection and good looks (Amazon Keko 100’ roll for $21.) I seized the ends with Amazon XFasten fabric Wire Harness Tape (5 rolls for $14.) BatteryCablesUSA also recommended Anderson SB50 connectors, instead of the larger #4 AWG rated SB120 connectors that I originally planned. They said that #4 AWG wire would fit in the SB50 #6 AWG contact pins, which it did. I used Trailer Vision covers for the Anderson SB50 connectors. A TV-201426-50 surface mount receptacle with hinged cover plate was installed under the truck bumper. It has a red LED power indicator that I discourage from connecting because it’s on all the time and annoyingly bright. They also offer a flush panel style mounting. The sheathed cord on the trailer side got the Trailer Vision TV-328993-50 plug cover. It has a protrusion that catches on the mating receptacle’s hinged cover to stop it from pulling out. It’s similar to how the 7-pin connector ports hold the plug in. It also has a LED power indicator that’s more useful because it’s only on when connected. It uses a compression gland for the cable that I filled with black RTV. Powerwerx company sells Trailer Vision parts, Anderson connectors, and other accessories for reasonable prices. Get at least 4 extra #6 Anderson pins for connecting to the Victron compression terminals as explained later. Powerwerx also sells the “PanelpodSB,” which is a surface panel mount Anderson SB50 housing for $11.99. I mounted one on the Oliver’s cargo box for “parking” the Anderson connector when it’s not plugged into the truck. It keeps with my existing theme of parking places for the 7-pin cable and RAM rear view camera cable. They also sell a tethered cap to keep it clean when traveling. The engine compartment wiring was straight forward. I connected the cable’s red wire to a 60 amp terminal post fuse on the battery positive. The black wire terminated to the battery negative. The trailer half of the sheathed cable went through a penetration behind the LP tanks. A hole was drilled through the trailer wall next to the existing penetrations with a 1-1/8” step bit. The sheathed cable passed though an Amazon PA66 1” nylon cable gland ($7.99 for two.) I used a short piece of heat shrink over the sheathing where it passed through the gland and filled the gaps with black RTV. The shelf under the bathroom sink has to be removed for access to the inside cable penetrations. From there the cable can be simply pushed under the floor to the rear dinette seat where the Victron was mounted. The Victron has some great safety features that will automatically reduce, or shutdown, the output if it gets too hot or the input voltage drops too low. It’s important to take this into consideration because it would likely happen while driving, and you wouldn’t know it without constant monitoring. Voltage drop especially comes into play with the new smart alternators that lower voltage output to save energy. The Victron’s default voltage settings account for this. However, due to the longer run of cable needed with travel trailer installations, the cable resistance can cause enough voltage drop where it can go below the default settings and cause the Victron to derate it’s output. I calculated the voltage drop for different wire gauges at 35 amps (nominal input current) and a cable distance of 53’ x 2. The results don’t include the connector and termination losses: 1.46 volt drop for #6 AWG 0.92 volt drop for #4 AWG 0.58 volt drop for #2 AWG Per Victron’s instructions, a 0.6 voltage drop can cause a “Voltage Lockout” with the default settings. There are many factors that can affect this, and fortunately the Victron defaults can be adjusted. To account for my voltage drop, I decreased the “Start Voltage” from 14 to 13 volts, and the “Shutdown Voltage” from 13.1 to 12.8 volts. These setting were recommended by “Offgrid Power Solutions,” on a You Tube video called “Victron Orion-Tr Smart DC-DC Charger settings.” Cooling is also an important consideration for the Victron because they create a lot of heat, and they derate charging current 3% for every degree above 1040 F. That’s almost 50% performance loss at only 1200. Maximum operating temperature is 1310, where I believe it shuts down completely. This is why I installed cooling fans (but also for the fun of it.) Amazon’s ”Sound Original” low profile blower fans (two for $9.99) were the right size, they had bearings, brushless motors, and a good mounting configuration for this application. The Victron was mounted on 1/4” standoffs to keep its cooling fins off the mounting surface, and it also helps the fans to distribute air more evenly. I used a Normally Open, 1040, 5 amp, thermostat switch to control the fans (Amazon Uxcell KSD9700 (2 for $5.49). The fans get power from the input terminals on the Victron so they can only come on if the truck is connected, and the temperature is over 1040. The thermostat switch resets at 860. The Victron was mounted on a painted plywood board that was attached to the forward battery compartment wall. It’s an easy to reach, out of the way location. I used 4 rubber well nuts that stay in place by themselves, but regular nuts and bolts could be used. The sheathed #4 cable was terminated to the Victron’s input compression terminals, with the fans power leads. I struggled at first with the Victron’s compression terminations, the wire wouldn’t fit, and I couldn’t find #4 square ferrels. So I was pretty pleased to discover that Anderson pins can be filed down to fit perfectly. Just be sure to cover the exposed barrels with heat shrink. The negative output of the Victron went to the main chassis ground post under the rear dinette seat where there is a 2/0 cable going directly to the battery negative. The positive output was connected to the line side of a Blue Seas 60 amp fuse block, from there it went to the line side of the existing inverter’s DC circuit breaker, which is jumpered to the battery positive with a 2/0 cable. With the TV at idle and the lithium batteries around 60%, the Victron output was 35.8 amps as measured by a clamp-on amp meter. The TV input was 42.5 amps. This calculated to 84% efficiency, which is close to Victron’s 87% claim, which I assume is under perfect conditions. I really liked the looks of the sheathed cable and Trailer Vision plug and receptacle,. The hinged receptacle cover will keep the dirt out when not towing. The plug and receptacle are locked together more securely with the Trailer Vision covers, otherwise the Anderson connectors can be fairly easily pulled apart and they might not stay together on a bumpy road. Cheers, Geoff

Geoff, I need a little more help with your great detail. I ordered the 2 fans and Thermo switch. How are they wired together, and where does the + & - wire from the fans run to? Where is the fuse wired into the fans? One fuse for both? What size fuse? If I understand your drawing, the Neg from the TV goes to the Orian - in or to the Frame bolt? If the TV - goes to the Frame bolt, does and another neg wire goes to Orian Neg in??? Your pic, looks like a wire with a red strip goes into Neg in. I don’t see the POS wire going into the Orian. What am I missing? Does another Neg wire coming out of the Orian go back to the Neg frame bolt? Does the POS out of Orian, after the 60 amp fuse then go the the bus bar, to the left top of the back dinette that is on the battery box? Sorry for all the questions, but I want to get this right. My head is spinning from what the almost 100 feet of copper and the copper lugs cost. Right at $7 a foot for 2/0 AWG and $5.98 for 2/0 copper lugs. OUCH? Thanks in advance for the help. Gary Hull 292

So this can get complicated so I've attached a pic! 🤣 If I carried all our required, notice the hook, I can be the janitor too! The keys on the left are my set, Chris' on the right and we each have every possible key for the Oliver and TV. The keys in the middle are used for hitch locks, our shed where we keep our camping stuff when home and some padlock keys. This set just stays in the truck toolbox side pocket and are always there unless hitching. I always carry the top left ring which has everything for the TV, 2 toolboxes, fuel cap and tailgate key, etc. and they fit nicely in my jeans pocket watch pocket. Bottom left are my Oliver and house keys for when we return and I always keep these in the TV console unless when rarely needed. Chris has a duplicate set. She is in charge of the Oliver door and when we take a hike, walk the dog, or the like, she carries the two keys top left on a wrist band and I leave my TV keys on a hook just inside the Oliver. At home, I have a whole special box full of keys; 2-3 sets for each vehicle, bikes (not bicycles) and dirt vehicles, shed and outbuilding and more and the box stays in a locked closet, key hidden in the nearby cabinet. I also have a hidden key box in the frame of the truck because I'm only going to lock my keys in the truck once without a backup! I loose my keys ALL the TIME! But they're always somewhere in the truck bed or on the Oliver bumper or somewhere like that and we never leave camp without my keys. Chris NEVER looses her keys, period end of story! She reminds me of that when she helps me find my keys. 🤣

I tried to help on Mark's Facebook post. I think your explanation is correct. I was trying to figure out why he has the inverter on. Using shore power at the power post or a generator the inverter shouldn't be on. I was getting hung up on this. I have charged our 2022 LE, Lithium & Solar without changing any settings. I have also run the AC without making any adjustments. When I use the generator it is being run on fuel. He is running his on LP.

Here is how I remember it: The Inverter's job is to Invert your power. It takes DC from the batteries and turns in in to AC via a transformer an turns it upside down again and a gain to create 60 hertz Alternating Current for your 120 V systems. The Converter takes 120 volt power and Chargers your batteries. Normally the Auto Transfer Switch causes the Inverter to not be energized at the same time as the C. nThis is because the inverter is not needed when you have A/C power from a shore power source. But it is possible and desirable to charge your batteries using the C and also power it up by your generator providing the energy to do so. This can be a high draw and "sucks up" much of what the main breaker will allow. Since I don't have clue what systems you have in a wonderful 2024, I can only suggest that if you have the ability to change your C charge rate, it may be pulling a lot of power that overloads the breaker. Hence some folks have dialed down the charge rate to leave more power available for other uses. You can check this by flipping the C's breaker off and see if you are still tripping the main breaker when on generator. OH one more hint. Many generators require us to use a bonded neutral plug. Like Honda's for example. I would start with that topic on the forum. The Progressive Industries EMS will no allow power from an unbonded neutrall for such generators. But failing to do so has not tripped a main that I am aware of. It willl however preclude shore power from getting you to your 120V loads. Hope this helps out a little bit. GJ

Roger all. On the 5.5 bed: For those that need to store their vehicle in a Public Storage shed, having the 5.5' bed is the cat's meow for a 20 ' x 10" box. Going with the 6.5' bed and you are now into the 30' stalls. MUCH more expensive. Also hauling pilots and flight gear up switch backs is easier with the 5.5' bed. And 40 PSI in the air bags. GJ

Well, it's finished! The installation of the DC to DC charging system in now complete and operational. I first started the installation in the Oliver Elite I trailer (#924) and finished the installation with the Jeep. I'm generally a DYI guy, but this was a bit of a stretch for me. It's not that it was difficult, I stressed on doing something to the Oliver that would ruin it, especially penetrating the hull for the charging cables. That was a big concern. But with careful planning and a ton of help from this community, I was able to get this done. Special thanks to Coddiwomple (David) for his help, patience, and guidance. I first went out to his place to view his installation in his Elite I. It's amazing how different his wiring was in just two model years. Mine is a 2021, and David's is a 2023. It was a bit confusing for me at first so a second visit was called for. In the second visit, I pulled my trailer to his place and asked more questions and advice. That second visit really helped! Thanks again David! Here is a few pictures I took during the process: I followed David's idea of mounting the components on a board that I later installed in front of the street side wheel well. I used the buss bars to step down in size from 2AWG to 4AWG which was necessary to connect to the Orion XS. I think pulling the 2AWG wire was the toughest part of the installation. A shout out to my son-in-law who was there helping that day. Couldn't have done it without him! Upon examination of the hull, I realized that under the sink (above picture) the hull is only a single layer thick, not a double hull there. That made things a bit easier. There was little existinting space to run additional cables through the hull, so I modified the housing for the propane tanks just a bit. With the propane tanks and tray removed, it was easy access to the trailer font. With my oscillating saw, I cut out an addition piece of the propane housing to the left of the three existing cables. That gave me plenty of room to install two additional cable glands for the DC charging cables. The way the propane tank housing is constructed and attached to the hull, the small piece I removed does not compromise the integrity of the housing. The following pictures show the final hull penetration. With the cables pulled, I was able to finish connecting everything to the DC charger. I finished the umbilical cord that connects to the back of the Jeep. I used the Trailer Vision enclosure to protect the Anderson SB120 plugs. Onto wiring the Jeep. (Much easier) At the battery box, I used a KASS terminal extender to accommodate the fuse and the other cables. I ran the cable along the chassis and installed the Anderson connector in a Trailer Vision enclosure which allowed me to mount it directly to the rear bumper of the Jeep. With everything installed and attached the batteries at both ends (Jeep and Oliver), I plugged it in and tested the amperage. I was getting between 49 and 50 amps at idle. Now the next step is to road test this on a long trip. Can't wait. Very excited to always have full batteries after a long day driving. Thanks again to everyone who had a part in making this a success! Carl

@I M in KS actually the Powerboost does come in a 6.5 bed, have been driving one today, Lariat model. It's impressive and a cut above my older 2013 EB in every way. Truthfully I am not sure how much use I would get out of the 7.2 KW generator, maybe some but given our solar and LI-ON battery and how little electricity we use while camping but its still a very nice forward thinking attribute and feature. I am surprised you are not getting better gas mileage though. Even my older eco boost gets on average much better MPG unless its severe windy conditions. Thanks for the info.