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This being my first season of use, I am still in the process of learning the proper procedures for many tasks. My trips so far, both on and off grid, were successful with minimal issues. As I approach the summer season, I purchased the Honda eu2200i companion generator to ensure I will meet the power needs when air conditioning may be used extensively. I’d like advice regarding my understanding of the proper process for connecting generator power to the trailer. Here is the current process I have put together, please tell me where I’m missing anything: Turn of AC devices in the trailer and secure the trailer main AC power breaker Set up the generator to run per the instructions Connect neutral ground plug into the 120v 20 amp generator connection Connect the 30 amp cord supply side to the 120v 30 amp generator connection with a locking adapter (noting that it will only be sending 20 amps) Connect the 30 amp cord to the trailer connection Start the generator to run at normal setting (not eco) Re-engage the trailer main AC breaker Given these steps, the generator will be providing shore power at ~20 amps which should run necessary AC functions (with the exception of the air conditioner) and will also charge the lithium batteries alongside the solar charging. Do I need to alter any settings in the xantrex controller app to ensure safe operation under this shore power configuration? My hull (#1056) has the Truma air conditioner retrofitted into it. As I understand it, my eardrums should be grateful to the previous owners. In order to use the air conditioner while using the 2200i, I will either need a soft start installed inside the Truma (all signs point to this not currently being the case) or I can use the inline soft start product in between the generator and the trailer. I appreciate your guidance.

This spring as we were prepping for a new road trip, I noticed the battery box door seemed to be sticking out further than normal. I thought I would adjust the latch to pull the door in a bit tighter. What I found was that the battery box had started to tip forward away from the main hull as shown the pix below. All the rivets up both sides and all across the top of the box had sheared and the box was tipped out about 1/2". I contacted Oliver Support to understand how the box was designed, mounted etc. They cleared me for travel after having me check the support strut inside the trailer (under the pantry area) . After some further consultation I was able to perform a repair. Here's a sketch of how the battery box is installed in our Hull 505 (2019 Elite II) trailer. The repair steps I took following Oliver instructions were: 1) Remove the batteries from the slide tray to get weight off the box. 2) Drill out all sheared rivets. (3/16" bit) 3) Release the 2 support bracket bolts inside the trailer under the pantry (one of which is adjustable). (This step is a pain and requires some long extensions for the ratchet wrench to make reaching nuts possible.) 4) Tip box back into position. (Check that the box base still has a slight outward tip for water drainage.) 5) Re-tighten support bolts. 6) Re-rivet all around the perimeter. 7) Clean seams and add a bead of boat life white sealant around the battery box seam. (See pix below). Repaired Box Above: Door closes with a good seal all around and the box sealed to the body. We are going to keep an eye on this as we travel this next year, and make a trip to the Oliver factory for them to inspect and repair if necessary. I'm not sure of the root cause or mechanism by which the box tipped out in the first place. One concern would be that the box is putting too much pressure on the outer hull while bouncing down the highway. I don't see any indications of cracking in the glass hull or box at this point. Hope this helps if anyone else see's an issue. Craig Hull 505

Have use my honda generator to chargé our batteries 2 times nów, today being The second Tim’e, disconnected from generator, went inside to verify they full charges, and no Lightning or Power to anything on The master control at The door. Went inside when i initialy starter generator and had Power at than time. My FIRST attempt about a month Ago , same routine and no problem. We had our trailer winterized when we picked it up SO no experience with it SO far other than using generator to keep batteries chargéd. Recommendations when to start looking.

Hello. My wife Karen and I are purchasing the 2025 Oliver Legacy Elite1. What generator is being used by other LE1 owners, to run the Truma Aventa Eco air conditioner? I have determine the Predator 3500 will not fit the storage basket on the tongue. So I’m open to suggestions. We drive a GMC Canyon with v6 engine. Thank you so much.

We got our LE2 with the bike rack mount and realized we will probably always carry our folding Ebikes in the back of the truck under cover. With that understanding we decided to add a cargo tray and locking box for general items needed for setup, and camp site necessities. Obviously weight is a critical factor so with the tray, box and gear inside we are shooting for less than 200# total. I'm sure we have succeeded after adding up the weigh of all items. The most difficult part is making the extended rails for the tray to mount on. I used the same T6061 aluminum that Oliver uses on their frame members. It's available in small sizes at local metal supply houses such as Metal Supermarket. The aluminum tubing drills and cuts easily with carbide woodworking tools. Use a little lite oil on the blade to keep the aluminum from fowling the blade. You must use good eye protection when cutting. I copied the way the bike rack rails were machined. Here's the results of the project: We have pulled the camper a couple times for local camp outs and the weight of the addition is completely unnoticeable while towing. The box is well made but light weight with locking double latch system. It has a double layer of aluminum in the lid and is foam filled to keep the contents from heating up too much in direct sun. The whole thing is very sturdy and at 220 pounds I can stand on the box lid to see the top of the camper with no effect to the box lid. Good traction and very solid. The softener tank is mounted with a tank wall mount and strap and is set up with quick connects and the standard hoses hook up in just a minute. The softener comes with a regeneration kit and it takes about an hour to perform a regeneration using a box of table salt. It will last up to 2000 gallons of water depending on the mineral content. No need to remove the tank for regeneration, just connect the kit to the external QD fittings and run the process. When done, you are good to go for a few more camping trips. No more hard water scale or rust on pluming fixtures. Remove the tank for winter storage inside the garage. I'm very pleased with the overall project. The box can be removed just as the bike mount is removed for spare tire access. You can actually access the spare without completely removing the tray assembly, Just slide it out about 6-8 inches and the cover and tire are removeable. I bought a self lit license frame and mounted to the back of the tray. I added a plug connection to the license light wire to power the new license plate light. I wanted a removable connection for obvious reasons. The connection is mounted on the lower part of the spare tire cover under the original license bracket. The old license plate bracket is still useable if the tray and box are removed. Tray: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0017H9N4E/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Box: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000MK4F68/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 License Bracket: https://www.amazon.com/Car-License-Plate-Light-Chrome/dp/B00S1Y5TSK?pd_rd_w=jpDah&content-id=amzn1.sym.e8faeee7-63c9-4cb3-96e0-e50a41f3b35b&pf_rd_p=e8faeee7-63c9-4cb3-96e0-e50a41f3b35b&pf_rd_r=018MZ7KVYFFMGM0WSKBV&pd_rd_wg=mdsBW&pd_rd_r=eff79229-c9bb-45a5-8656-400649d9a361&pd_rd_i=B00S1Y5TSK&psc=1&ref_=pd_bap_d_grid_rp_0_1_ec_t Softener: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09Y2KNFFL/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1 Tank Bracket: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00208DY76/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Trying to decide which to get... I like the idea of more storage with the locked box, but having to remove the generator for every road trip is probably a pain too. What do you prefer?

After purchase of our OE II, I realized the first thing that I wanted to add was a cargo box for more external storage. Based on various posts in this forum, I decided to go with either the Arksen 29” Diamond plate (4.3 CF) or the Dee Zee DZ91717P (5.4 CF). While the Arksen has a look that more closely aligns with the Oliver, I chose the Dee Zee because of the larger capacity. As I will explain later, this turned out to be a problem. With regard to any modifications to our Oliver, my goals are to (1) minimize any drilled holes and (2) try to be consistent with Oliver installation techniques. With that in mind, I decided to use the same U-bolts that Oliver uses to attach their aluminum storage basket and purchased two of them from the factory (part #10839). This had an additional benefit since I only needed to drill two holes through the fiberglass (near the tongue jack) - the other U-bolt would be fastened at the tongue. Also, when it comes time to sell, it should be very easy to replace this box with Oliver’s basket should the new owner want to do so. Instead of buying the U-bolt plates from Oliver, I cut and drilled some old garage door hardware that I had laying around (apparently DW is right when she says I never throw anything away). To avoid the possibility of galvanic corrosion I placed pieces of vinyl siding between the steel plates and the aluminum tongue. Positioning and drilling the holes through the fiberglass was a little trickier than I had anticipated. They say measure twice, cut once. Not wanting to screw it up, I think I measured it six times. There isn’t enough space to get a drill directly underneath the fiberglass so I had to use a ¼” x 12” bit to drill the first hole, enlarging it to 3/8” from the top side. Once that hole was drilled, I used the U-bolt to determine the position for the second hole and drilled that from the top, first ¼”, then 3/8”. I then used my Dremel with a pointed abrasive cone to slightly taper the holes as others on this forum have advised to prevent cracking of the gel coat. Now comes the problem with the Dee Zee box. As you can see from the photo, there is an indentation in the rear of the box exactly where the rear U-bolt needs to be! (What did I say about measuring twice?) After considering other fastening strategies, most of which included drilling many more holes, I finally relented and decided to go with the Arksen instead. I trimmed a piece of interlocking foam utility mat (Designer’s Image 765-5058, 0.43” thickness) to use as a cushion between the box and the fiberglass. As luck would have it, I happened to have four 4” x 4” x 3/8” rubber vibration pads (UPE Group) laying around (did I mention that I never throw anything away?). After trimming to the width of the tongue with a razor blade knife I stacked the four pads and secured them to the tongue with 24” long cable ties. The ribs on the pads allowed them to interlock and stack nicely. And four of those pads adds just enough height to make the box level. To beef up the bottom of the cargo box, I added a piece of ½” plywood. To minimize moisture entry from the bottom, I used gasket cutters to make tight-fitting washers from 1/8” rubber packing sheet and placed them on the U-bolts between the plywood and the interior bottom of the box. The U-bolts were then fastened down with the steel plates using SS nylon-insert lock nuts. Permatex nickel anti-sieze was used on the threads to assist future removal, if needed. Overall, I am quite happy with this install. Special thanks to MAX Burner for giving us a tour of Casablanca at the rally in Alabama, including his own Arksen cargo box.

Hopefully, these will be available in the US one of these days, or the shipping from the UK is reasonable. These would come in really handy for cleaning up some of the sloppy wiring we've all found. https://quickfixjb.co.uk/

Hello, I am a new Ollie owner, Hull number 530, and I’m a low tech user who needs help! Where can I get information on purchasing the factory front mounted storage box I’ve seen and heard about? Secondly, what is my first step in troubleshooting low water pressure coming from my pump? Thank you. Pete

I am not an electrician, I don’t play one on TV and I did not stay at a Holiday Inn Express, so please keep it simple for my simple mind. I have been reading the forum for a few days and I have found posts that talk about and around using a generator solely for charging the Ollie batteries. Is using a generator solely for charging the Ollie batteries a good idea? My objective is to have as small a dual fuel generator as possible, while I am off shore-power to compensate or complement for the 400 Watt solar panels. My larger objective is to be as untethered as possible while traveling. I don’t want to go to a bigger generator to run Ollie in full or partial mode. My Oliver Elite II is on order. It is coming with 390 AH Lithium batteries, 400 Watt Solar panels with charge controller and 3,000 Watt Pro inverter. Is there any special request I need to make to Oliver to create a plug from the generator to the battery to make the connection as clean and simple as possible? Dumb question time – Why couldn’t the generator power enter the battery system via the external solar panel connection?

Another winter project with help of good friend with "SKILLS" in welding aluminum. Added Bumper box. Thanks to all who contributed on the subjet. I did get endcaps put on and license plate bracket . Before picture. Picture was taken . Will update with better pictures later when snow clears.

A few years ago, generators were all over our forum. Nearly all portable generators were of standard Motor/Generator design. I refer to them and my Dometic Penguin AC as "Hammer Mills". Then Honda came out with their inverter line. Super quiet, fuel efficient, and their EU 2000 watt unit with an EzStart would run our A/C units. The vast majority of us purchased the Honda inverter 2000 or 2200 units. But they were, and are pricy. Time has passed and most of us still have the Hondas that you could not pry out of our dead hands. But much less costly Champion, Yamaha and Predator inverters (to name a few) have come into play. With the OTT production rate acceleration, I suspect we have many new owners that likely would likely benefit from a revival of the topic. This thread is intended to hear from our owners their thoughts about their generator. Please touch upon the below as well as your experiences: Generator Name and Model Cost of Purchase Power Output (Rated Full Load) Ability to handle our A/C cycling while switched to "Eco-Mode". Please specify if you have an 11K BTU or 13.5K BTU A/C. Decibels idle and full power Ease of use Maintainability Reliability Durability Number of seasons used Thank you! GJ

what must I do to use generator power on my 2018 elite II? What steps are required?

I am looking for an enclosed aluminum box to mount where the factory "basket" goes on the front frame. Has anyone found one that fits well and has some room for tools and odds and ends?

My nice RV mechanic suggested I place the Honda generator I plan on ordering on the bumper? What would be the best rack? Thank you!!

Hey, all. Prepping to go full-time after my Elite II pickup in late April. I have a spec sheet provided by Oliver which has measurements but perhaps someone can share pictures of the various storage cubbies in their E2? The ones on the site really just show the doors of the cubbies but not the shape + contour of things inside. Even better if this prompted a discussion here from folks who have advice on what they've settled on for dividing/organizing the various storage cubbies. Nothing exotic planned for storage needs on my end: clothes, dishes, and similar. Thx!

Please help!! We are boondock camping and we're trying to top off our lithium batteries. I plugged into a small watt generator it did not charge anything. I switched over to a 3500 generator and there's a clicking noise going on and it's not charging. Clicking noise in the compartment of the dinette, the one on the left. I do not know what to do. Can anybody help? Thank you, Christi

Our Oliver is the first trailer we’ve owned with an EMS, and I’m a bit nervous about using a small generator (Yamaha 1000) for charging if we don’t have enough sunlight for solar and/or truck charging. I don’t yet have a grounded neutral plug, but will build or buy one before any travels. I did check to see if the generator would work, and of course it didn’t because of the floating ground. For info, we have four 6 VDC AGM batteries, and 480 watts of Solar (trailer and Zamp portable). We prefer to boondock, but are not big power users. Mostly lights, Maxfan, and furnace, but we do tow with the 3way refrigerator on DC. Any words of wisdom? Have I missed anything?

What do you all do to cover your generators when you need to run them and it's poring rain outside? I've seen some "covers" at the Jungle Store - not sure about them.

Honda just released a new 3200watt (26.6 ) amp generator. It is in the same format of the EU 2200i. It will fit under a tonneau cover an should also fit in the front basket. I haven’t measure the basket yet thought. 60 pounds, fuel injection, and all of the same features of the EU2200. It is a little expensive at list price $2999, the 2200 main and companion together are about $500 cheaper than the 3200. If I hadn’t just bought the EU2200i main and companion I would really consider this because of the space savings and one less generator to maintain. The 2 Eu2200i are 4400 watts or 36.6 amps vs 26.6 amps of the 3200

Any ideas why my generator power isn’t showing up in the trailer despite being plugged in the same as always. The only thing that has happened since I last ran the generator last Winter is my water pump stopped working, so repair guy ran new positive line from switch to pump. could the repair guy have done something to prevent generator power to enter the trailer? thank you

We've had the Battery Box on our radar screen since we purchased Casablanca back in March from its PO in TX. One of the Hull #226 selling points for us was that the PO had recently replaced the AGMs with 3 Battle Borns and added a Victron Smart Shunt. However, upon learning from the forum, the BB install by the PO was less than optimum - or at least to our understanding at the time. We were surprised that there wasn't a battery master "shut-off" switch. This fact was the main driver for this project - after looking into what we "really" had on our hands, the pervasive project "scope creep" showed its ugly head! Full Disclosure: Although we've had several RVs over the decades, never have we owned Lithiums. Thanks to these forums, learning about the nuances and particulars of LiFePOs, specifically, Battle Borns - and even more specifically, their application with the Oliver, has taken some time to digest. We didn't want to delve into the "fray" of "cleaning up" what was previously installed until our understanding of this particular system was at a high enough level not to screw something up. So, thanks to the forums, many of y'all's posts regarding the subject, and special thanks go out to @Geronimo John for his patience and guidance with what ended up being a fairly large scale re-design of Casablanca's DC distribution system. Initial Configuration and Issues: 1. A key indicator that there was an issue somewhere within the "DC system" was that the charge controller would never reach 14.4 volts; 13.6 was the max ever observed/measured. 2. The BBs were stacked in an unusual configuration on the battery tray. The rear two batts were aligned side-by-side facing left/right and the third "outer" BB was aligned 90 degrees off facing fore/aft. Several cables were too short not allowing full battery tray extension. Clearly not a neat/tidy or logical configuration. 3. The battery bank was not strapped down. 4. Although likely large enough for intended current, the three BB's parallel connections were made with 1/0 cables versus the 4/0 cables distributing the current into the trailer. 5. Several positive and negative connections were made directly to the battery bank without the use of any sort of terminal post or terminal bar even though the Smart Shunt was in place. These connections were bypassing the SS, not good - thus contributing to phantom current within the DC distribution system and not allowing the Victron App to capture all DC power activity. 6. One cable, a yellow 4 AWG, ran from a negative BB terminal to the wrong side of the Victron SS; this cable essentially paralleled the 4/0 cable from the same terminal to the shunt. This made absolutely no sense. 7. As stated above, no battery master switch. We've always had a master switch in previous campers - handy for longer term storage and eliminating phantom current. In case of fire, we wanted a "safety switch" located outside the camper and inside the battery box to quickly secure DC power after quickly exiting the rig. SUMMARY OF WORK PERFORMED: The closer we looked at the DC set-up the more questions and issues surfaced. There were other ancillary DC system "gripes" but the above list really paints the picture of what we were dealing with... After quite a bit of forum research, thought, and informative and lively discussions with Geronimo John; a clearer project plan developed. 1. We made an assumption that the PO didn't upgrade the "lead-acid" charge controller circuit board as part of the BB installation. This rationale would explain why we never observed more than 13.6 volts on shore power with the controller energized. Sure enough, after pulling the board, it was clear that the board was doing exactly what it was intended to do - charge lead-acid batteries; as it didn't have the Lithium micro-switch option. So, we ordered a replacement 45-Amp board from Amazon with the Lithium option - enter "project scope creep." Above pic shows replacing the LA charge controller with a Li-capable board. The lead-acid board is 100% functional and will be posted for sale on the forums. The new Li-board cranked right up and the BBs finally received the charge intended for a Lithium battery bank: 2. Disconnected and removed the 1/0 cables connecting the 3 BBs, labeled and stacked them sequentially from back to front. Sized cables to allow full extension of the battery tray and added nylon tie-down straps from Rangley. Cut, crimped, heat shrunk, and installed new 4/0 color-coded cables in parallel configuration: Made a terminal buss-bar from 3/16" x 1" solid copper for the Blue Sea Systems master switch (Amazon) which will be heat shrinked once it arrives. Contoured a poly board from an old cutting board to mount the switch, like many owners have done. Mounted a positive (+) terminal bar with the master switch to accommodate DC connections. In the new configuration, only 4/0 cables are connected to battery terminals - removed the various "added-on" connections and placed them appropriately between the (+) terminal bar and the Victron SS. Now, all DC (-) connections are made through the shunt so all DC power measurements are captured with the Victron Application. Peace of mind - priceless. While we were at it, we added an SAE solar input port for the 200W Renogy suitcase solar modules - more scope creep... HA! Not being an EE, I'm sure there's something left out, but in the end, we've got a clean set-up in the battery compartment, fully functional Victron SS, and the appropriate charge controller to manage the BBs. Time for a cold one. Cheers! A & D

On my recent fly fishing trip to Wyoming I stumbled upon a Forest Service "de-commissioned" campground. My destination was fishing the Buffalo Fork River and I knew that there was a large Forest Service campground (Turpin Meadows) at the end of the paved Buffalo Valley Road. I also knew that there are numerous boondocking sites on this road. However, when I arrived I found the Turpin Meadows campground FULL and even the availability of many of the boondocking sites were hard to come by. So, as I headed west back toward Moran Junction I saw a small sign 9/10th of a mile west of Turpin Meadows for Box Creek Trail Head. The 3/4 mile dirt road ends at the trail head where there are 8 campsites. The Forest Service took away the picnic tables but left the bear boxes. While the pit toilet is not "serviced" by the Forest Service (this means that it is not cleaned nor do they provide TP) the campers using this facility do sweep it out and the result is that it is in better shape than the average. There is water but it is marked that it is not potable, however, both potable water and trash disposal can be done at Turpin Meadows. During the week I camped here it was never full and most nights there were only three of us staying there. It is super quiet but certainly be "bear aware". So, if you are in the Grand Teton area and want to get away from the crowds but still want great hiking and/or good fishing without a long drive on a dirt road, you might want to consider Box Creek. There are stunning views of the Tetons from many of the hiking trails, from the river and from the drive west on Buffalo Valley Road. GPS: N 43 degrees 51minutes 42.5 seconds, W 110 degrees 17 minutes 39.0 seconds Bill

I've had my heart set on a Ram 3500 Cummins HO with the Aisin transmission for a while now, but haven't pulled the trigger on the truck or the LEII yet. On the truck side I've been debating the following: Dually - Dual Axle (DA) vs Single Axle (SA) Crew Cab versus Mega Cab. 6'4" Box versus 8' Box There are three important caveats, You can only get the Mega Cab with the 6'4 box You can only get the 50 gallon Diesel tank with the 8' box. The 6'4" box comes with the standard 30 Gallon Tank. You can only get the Mega Cab starting with the Laramie trim, there are 2 lessor trim packages which could save $ Lengths: Crew 6'4"box- 19.75' wheelbase 149.5" Crew 8' box - 21.73' wheelbase 169.5" Mega 6'4" box - 20.82' wheelbase 160.5" I was leaning towards the single axle Mega Cab with the 6'4" box, but that requires at least the Laramie trim package, which I don't necessarily want. Also I really would like that 50 gallon tank, which puts me back to the Crew and 8' box which allows me to save some money and get back to the Tradesman trim. Having said all that, 90% of the time, there will only be 2 people in the truck and the Mega Cab really only benefits back seaters. Unless of course you put the seats down and use it as a flat space for storage. I wanted to see what you experienced Oliver haulers thought about these options. Any opinion on the wheelbase differences on towing or driving around town? Or is the 149.5" wheelbase already so long adding another 20" isn't going to make much difference in towing. DA vs SA, I am leaning toward SA mainly because of the rear width size during non-towing everyday driving. However, I would also appreciate any opinions on this as well. Any thoughts on the 6'4" box vs 8' box, in terms of running out of space? Everyday driving? U-turns, etc.

Other than sitting it on the hitch shelf….. thanks