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We purchased the same compressor dehumidifier and it did a good job for us, too! Tried this unit for 3 days in Ollie with outside humidity ranging from 50% in the afternoon to 90% before sunrise with outside temps ranging from low 40s to afternoon upper 60s. This unit removed about a quart of water daily. I dumped the tank daily, but it also has a drain hose that could be run into the kitchen sink or shower drain. Set the unit at 40% and it actually kept the inside humidity at 47% when the compressor shut off to 55% when the compressor turned back on. It has CSA certification. Took a Joker out of a deck of cards to cover the light on the front of the unit, since it's bright at night.

We have a 2022 elite II that has a broken rubber latch on the propane cover. We discovered this as we were preparing for our last trip, and white duct tape served us well enough. My husband has called Oliver 4 or 5 times over the last 4 weeks and they have been unable to help. Has anyone had this problem or aware of the part needed for replacement? It appears to me that the whole latch needs replacing not just the strap. The array of latches on Amazon is impressive. Thanks for any help!

You camp and learn. We were at my dad’s in southern MI this past week with temps dropping down in the single digits. Atmos 4.4 heat pump quit working immediately and the plug in electric heater was taken out during the last cleaning and forgot to put it back. Propane tank gauges were showing zero and the Truma water heater started blinking yellow. After turning off the water heater and Atmos several times and verifying propane level by weight we turned on the Suburban propane and stayed warm and cozy for the next 2 days without further problems. It is a learning experience every time you forget something or encounter something challenging out in the wild blue yonder. Part of the adventure! Glad you were able to find some AC for heat, redundancy is key .

Hello all, hull #1633. We picked up our LE2 this summer and went on several trips without issue. We went on a trip over Thanksgiving weekend excited to try some cold weather camping. The nighttime temps were getting into the mid to low 20 F range and days were around mid 40's. We ran the furnace a night and were very comfortable. on the last night I knew that one of the propane tanks may getting low so before bed I made sure that both tanks were open and felt comfortable that the automatic tank switch would switch the tanks if one went empty. This was not the case; I woke up at around 3am freezing with an error E2H on the furnace. I checked the stove, and it would not lite. I went out and made sure that the 2nd tank was full, and it was. i tried turning the switch so that it pointed to the full tank and tried to lite the stove again, no dice. I ended taking both tanks off swapping positions of the tanks and that did the trick and was able to get the furnace working again. So, my question is would the cold weather have caused the automatic tank switch to fail, or is it just broken?

We had the KTT mattresses which on our very first trip seemed uncomfortable, too soft and too difficult just to sit up in bed to watch TV. We have Brooklyn Bedding and home and went with two of these" https://rvmattress.com/products/brooklyn-wanderlust-memory-foam/rv-bunk-30x75-12-inch I went with the 12" for its 3 layers of foam and medium firmness. They are very heavy and 12" is really too tall! Added Bonus: at this height our old dog Charley can't jump up on the beds anymore! (He has his own bed.) We opened the stitching on a corner seam and with an insulation knife cut a 14" radius to fit. They have the 30x75" size in several mattress heights. As far as lifting beds. Stop doing that! We use our boondocking port almost every time out. When I'm ready outside, Chris just throws two switches under the bed to refill the FWT from the backup water tank in the bed of our truck! OTT should read the below post for new design ideas, but who cares about what comes in a new Oliver anyway? Not me, now that this has been corrected!

The auto-switching function is most likely just broken, but the inability to even manually switch between tanks could have been frozen. Your regulator may not have worked properly even when it was new. With our hull #1291, I have had to manually switch between tanks since we bought it new in Hohenwald. That prompted me to invest in Mopeka tank sensors, which are on a Cyber Monday sale right now. Buy two, one for each tank. https://www.amazon.com/Mopeka-Check-Sensor-Steel-Tanks/dp/B09J6MXJKT/ref=sr_1_6?dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.7Exyy9znT-SQGS49BGKyHY8ska73Uv8UcW7kjFcD5amLXllefHdvZI9wor2zVTUu_HhYmQxB3bapRHQuaIsBOy6fqVjO7n3zsjQ9skHvk2LQmqIbgav0y31tXmkHXPjxRMvJD0WQLLb5H2SPD6tEMIXdiP5KAe6190HRcuSaGgLPY_82w62plWFkRqUzSt9C2P2BuIibPH-53VmHFVohGOm0i5u8ejoXxzjTHAFhKYA1KJi-YdzdikEnsHz5-nSqBoTB8mn2Lc_RZEoDJ-xbdZgGxet5-WJzelCBJJCRgn0.2nf7_EzuuwFWa_vGhzCEyPMqhD9F4i7-2d7c70IgJu0&dib_tag=se&hvadid=678467137404&hvdev=c&hvexpln=0&hvlocphy=9029558&hvnetw=g&hvocijid=39930829735022087--&hvqmt=b&hvrand=39930829735022087&hvtargid=kwd-2239628814146&hydadcr=7696_13589679&keywords=mopeka%2B2%2Bpack&mcid=2a3b25f10644368bbbb60cf5e4c564c8&qid=1764610880&sr=8-6&th=1 I monitor propane levels with the app on my phone, then manually switch when one tank gets low. I am interested to know if you are able to manually switch the regulator between tanks once it thaws out.

After several months of researching a suitable replacement TV, a van was decided to be our best choice based on perceived criterium, ie engine/drivetrain, cargo/tow capacity and tongue weight requirements for our OLEll and style of camping. The former 2012 Silverado 1500 4x4 was reaching ‘retirement age’ and I’ve been pushing its limits, regarding carrying capacity, for a couple of years. I will acknowledge up front that we are not minimalist! That said, this Explorer conversion van well exceeds my expectations in both spacial and towing considerations, as well as comfort and convenience. BTW, I told my wife “remind me to never buy another tow vehicle days before a planned trip!” Although ‘well appointed’, the passenger seats had to go; at least when towing our Oliver. The two second row captain’s chairs are easily removed via a release mechanism from the floor mounting base for occasional use, as needed; the third row couch/reclining bed not so much and will go to storage. By removing the passenger seats, I now have 10’ of open cargo space from the rear doors to the front seats; the Silverado’s bed only measured 5’8”, plus limited space in its back seat. Having double doors on both side and rear of the van vastly improved access to the cargo area. The two vehicles were positioned end-to-end to facilitate easy cargo transfer for organizational purposes. Ultimately, two storage boxes were acquired to safely stow much of the cargo; specifically, underbody tool boxes. Yep, delivered one day before our departure to the Texas Oliver Rally at Inks Lake SP, what was I thinking! The boxes are serving their purpose by providing secured organization of supplies and gear, with ample room for our folding e-bikes, Dometic fridge/freezer, portable power station, generators, spare 30 lb. propane tank and a couple of small bins. Camp R&B, Inks Lake SP, Site 227; Texas Oliver Rally, October 20-25, 2024.

Any wisdom on how this is possible? Tanks standing alone (not attached to the trailer) with valves closed do not leak.

One other possibility to consider is moisture in the tank. If that exists, the expansion of the propane can drop the temperature of the gas below the water freezing point and it can block the line. We had that happen on a previous RV where the tanks weren’t properly purged prior to filling. I had a propane supplier add some alcohol (I believe it was ethanol) to the tank and that cured it. The ethanol absorbed the moisture and it passed through the regulator without freezing.

Casita did a pretty good job with this new trailer. Tank sizes, especially black tank, dry bath and large fridge are all good selling points. At about half the price of an Oliver this is going to provide some competition. I hope Oliver is working on their next trailer! Mike

Hey folks I just came across the company in Arvada, CO that uses some serious science and biology to wastewater treatment, including, black tank, gray tank and what they call galley tanks which I assume to be fresh water tanks. Thought everyone would be interested given this subject has come up numerous times in the past. I put in an order on Friday and it arrived today so customer service so far has been awesome. It will be while before we can put the stuff to a test since our streets are torn up presently and no way to get vehicles in and out of driveway. It's a bummer but also a 1st World Problem. https://uniquecampingmarine.com Below is a rather long video on the subject but informative and worth the time spent IMHO

Or, the mystery of the leaking weep holes. I hope someone here can help me understand what is going with the leaks from the weep holes. I will state what I know as fact. Some of what I say will be conclusions I have come to based on evidence and experimentation. We took off June 1st. I noticed the weep holes leaking the morning of our first overnight stay. It was leaking pretty good from the weep holes in front of the steps. It is not a stream. It is a drip, drip, drip kind of thing. I have looked everywhere except under the bathroom sink. No water anywhere. Clue #1. It only leaks when the fresh water tank has water in it. Fact Clue #2. The water pump kicks on about every 30 to 40 minutes when the fresh water tank has water in it. Clue #3. I am pretty sure the leak stops if I turn the pump off. I have done this a couple of times, and I am pretty sure this is true. There are no leaks around the pump. I have checked multiple times. I have been working with Oliver. We think a fitting has come loose. But, Mike asked me if we filled the fresh water tank until it overflowed. We do. So, Yesterday I filled it to 80%. No leak this morning and the pump did not kick on while there was no water use.

We are occasionally experiencing propane refill stations requiring the tanks to be on the ground (not on trailer) to fill. Additionally the staff has not been allowed to help remove / replace the tanks. I have some physical disabilities and lifting 30lb tanks is difficult. Is this a regulation that is loosely followed? Are other people being required to fill tanks on the ground ? Is anyone using alumiunum tanks that are much lighter to lift off the trailer? if using Alu tanks, any recomecdations on brand/tank model ?

This is valid. There were many, many RVs built around 2021-22 with far worse quality issues than we've had. The problem for us is that we paid quite a bit more than a standard RV's price to avoid those issues. I can forgive problems with 3rd party things like appliances and fixtures. Oliver couldn't control that. I'm far less forgiving of workmanship problems like wiring, plumbing and, obviously, their own fiberglass. Yes, I would like to know more about what's going on here. Is this strictly cosmetic or is that a significant stress fracture? (I've been underneath looking at the frame in that area and it all looks OK.) Should I worry about water intrusion and freezing? Will the crack spread up the curve onto the sidewall proper? Scheduling a long trip in advance is difficult for us because my wife's medical treatment plan can change on any given month. But I can't think of any shop around here experienced enough in both fiberglass repair and RV appliances to do the work. (I'm assuming the water heater needs to come out.) The last few trips this year had been uneventful and I was perfectly content waxing the trailer (and thinking we had come to some sort of understanding) when I found the crack. Ugh!

My freshwater tank is full, water pump is on, but I'm not getting any water coming through the system. Do you see anything wrong with the valve configuration for the 2016 Elite 2? I have been able to pump in the winterization configuration when I cleaned out everything with vinegar water.

To my surprise, our answer has become NO. We use it for cooking and washing dishes, but not for filling our water bottles. Water bottles always get filled from one of 2 places: 1) Buy bottled water from the store 2) Some places (like certain visitor centers in national parks) give away GREAT water. In the truck, we have about 20 gallons worth of collapsible water "bags" to take advantage of this when it happens. I would love to stop doing #1. But my adorable wife is very picky about the taste of her drinking water. 😃

I believe that there are simply way too many factors that should be considered for just about anyone to give you any kind of reasonable answer to your question. Wind, certainty of weather forecast, your own risk tolerance, how much time will you spend in the camper, is it sunny out and will you be camped in the sun, how much access will you really need to those water related items that are located towards the outer hull (i.e. outside shower, black tank flush, city and fresh water tank inputs), etc., etc.. Even though there are a number of posts right here on the Forum from owners that have experienced conditions similar to what you are anticipating, there are virtually never two that are exactly alike. For what its worth, I tend to be a bit more cautious in regards to situations like this. But, I'm from a backpacking background and many time travel alone. It is a bit easier only having to take care of one human versus two (or more). A couple of milk jugs filled with water and another one or two for drinking/cooking/bathing and I'm set. That sure beats virtually any time wasted on worrying about exactly what the temps are going to do and/or repairing damage caused by a frozen pipe. Having said this, I'd guess that you will be OK - particularly if you have the ability to make sure that some "heated" air gets to the rear drivers side and under the forward dinette seat of the Ollie. Obviously this is easy to do with the dinette seat but if someone is sleeping on the driver's side bed, it might take a bit of good positioning of a fan or small heater in order to assuage your worries. Bill

Sorry to bring this subject up again on the forum, but I want to find out what people are using to check the level in their LP tanks and if they use a measuring device. I myself initially decided to not get anything to measure the LP level in my tanks as I can just fill up the empty tank when I switch the valve over to the 2nd tank. But I keep coming back to this subject. (MaybeI I am a little bored over the winter.) There are tank gauges that you install in-line. There are also the devices you install on the bottom of the LP tank like from Mopeka. There are also hand held measuring devices that you scribe along the side of the tank to determine where the liquid level is inside the tank, such as: 1. Dometic makes a measuring device, model GC-100, $68.99 2. Truma also makes a similiar measuring device - $74.79 So my question is regarding only the two numbered devices above. For those that have used either of the devices, did they work ok and were you happy with the devices and would you recommend for purchase? Thanks

Yesterday morning we left Hull #634 XPLOR, with Collin and Gavin owners of CGi who gave it the CGI 3 step Ceramic coating process. We really like that they kept our Oliver overnight which allowed the ceramic coating to cure for at least 4 hours inside their shop. All we could say this morning when they opened their shop door was WOW! WOW! WOW! 🤩 Our Oliver looked better than the day we took delivery June 16th of 2020. Their work is excellent and the attention to detail is truly amazing. With over 130 Oliver Travel Trailers under their belt they truly are masters at their craft. The CGI team knows exactly how to take care of ALL things Oliver gelcoat. We also had our windows and wheels ceramic coated along with everything white on our Oliver. This was an excellent seamless experience and a valuable investment in our Oliver. 🌟🌟🌟🌟🌟 Patriot 🇺🇸 One of several of their YouTube videos-

We're planning a trip to Yosemite soon and I picked up a heated water hose. The forecast is calling for lows just below freezing and it will be a just in case we need to fill our tank. I don't think I'm going to leave it attached, at night, but from what I've read, the heated portion is for that scenario. We'll keep our furnace on at night since it runs quiet, and run our rooftop AC unit heat during the day, so I don't use up all the propane and can save that just for sleeping hours. I also bought a dual voltage plug in Vornado heater, which has a low setting that I plan to run at night since we'll be hooked up to shore power most of our trip. This will be our first trip during colder weather, so I may be over doing it, but wanted to be prepared, just in case it's needed.

As others have noted, these trailers do very well in cold weather. So I think you'll be fine as long as you have heat. We traveled to Moab for a January wedding. There were several days on the road where the temp never got above freezing and the trailer was covered in ice when we arrived at our overnight stop. We relied mainly on the internal water tank as the supply hose would freeze. One lesson we learned was to be gentle with the trailer when you arrive. Without heat, some of the plumbing may have frozen while traveling. Give it some time with the heat on to thaw out. I broke the toilet petal once by being impatient, not knowing the flush valve in the back had frozen. I carry extra flush valves but the pedal is not available as a separate replacement part. Not my finest hour.

It sounds like a fun trip! 😊 We have had limited experience camping in below freezing temperatures, and not in the mid teens as you mentioned. Our temps were in the mid to upper 20 degree range and only for a short couple of hours before sunrise. Our Oliver was not winterized and we had no issues with frozen water lines. We always make it a point to not to connect to city water with a freeze warning and use our on board water. We don’t drink from our fresh water tank, and always carry plenty of gallon jugs for drinking water. Our typical sleeping temp is 61d and we run a dehumidifier which keeps our interior just about perfect at 55% humidity. We always leave the bathroom door open to keep warm air circulating. As @topgun2 mentions there are lots of variables to consider. I think you will be fine just stay weather aware for sure. Safe travels and let us know how your trip goes!

As you might already know - Those tank gauges are "GasStops". They are primarily designed to automatically stop gas flowing in the event of a major "leak". However, they can also be used to detect a slow or minor leak and they are a "gross" source of determining how much gas is left in the tank. GasStops can be found at Camping World, Etrailer, and a bunch of other places to include HERE on Amazon. Installation is very simple. Bill

@Dennis and Melissa, we have carried a small 120V ceramic heater when traveling during months when below freezing is possible. I included this heater on our trailer delivery trip in February, 2022, based on recommendations I had read on this forum. When enroute back to Dallas we encountered freezing weather and stopped for the night at a convenient RV park along I40, about an hour east of Little Rock. The temperature was below freezing when we pulled in, about 10PM. I had to chip ice off the water spigot to take on some fresh water. We had the furnace running and the temperature inside the trailer was comfortable when we went to bed. Several hours later, I awoke cold and the furnace was not operating. Assuming we had exhausted the propane in one tank, I dressed and went outside to switch the regulator to draw propane from the other tank, which we knew to be full. The outside temperature was in the low to mid 20s. Long story short, we were unable to get the furnace to startup by drawing propane from the full tank. I messed with the regulator, but could not get propane to flow. I tried connecting the hose from the first (now empty) tank to the full tank, but still no flow through the regulator. Consequently, I pulled out the ceramic heater and got It running on shore power. The ceramic heater could maintain the temperature in the trailer at about 60 degrees. I had no way to measure the temperature between the hulls, but I knew very little of the heat from the ceramic heater would benefit that space. We decided to forego morning showers and prepared to get underway back to Dallas, where the temperature was likely to be above freezing. Before departing, at 8AM Eastern time, I phoned Oliver Support and described our problem. They suggested measures we had previously tried, and suggested trying to light the cooktop to determine if propane was flowing. The cooktop would also not light. Oliver Support suspected the regulator was faulty and committed to shipping out a new regulator the same day. About two days later the new regulator was delivered to our home. I installed the new regulator and the problem was solved. All gas appliances now operated normally. The lesson I took from this experience was to carry the ceramic heater as a backup to the propane furnace if traveling during months when freezing weather is likely. So long as the propane furnace is operable and there is an adequate supply of propane I would rely on the propane furnace as the better protection from freezing water lines within the trailer. I would turn to the electric heater ONLY as a backup to the propane furnace. Especially at night I feel the safer option is to run the furnace, not knowing how low the outside temperature may drop to during the night. We have had no further occasions when the furnace would not operate and have stayed in the trailer multiple nights in similar temperatures.

I swear - I tried to find a thread for this, but couldn’t. Our black tank dump handle got SO hard to pull to open I was afraid it would snap off the T handle. The cable that operates the valve is about 12 feet long and has two 90 degree bends. I tried rerouting the cable to ease the radii, but it only helped a bit. Oliver’s “fix” is installing an electric valve. They want ~$900 to do that upgrade. I found the Valterra electric valve on Amazon for under $200 - and I’ve been known to be pretty handy, so I bought it. The valve install is pretty easy - cramped quarters and the ability to work without seeing anything helps. The valve is in. The electric switch is another matter. I haven’t quite settled on where to put it. I -think- I can cut a rectangular hole where the old valve was, but it looks to tight if possible. Anybody else done this upgrade, and if so, where did you put the switch? Anybody have this done by Oliver - and where did THEY put the switch? Val