Winterizing

[John E Davies]

What is wrong with simply running the furnace during those winter cold spells. Wouln’t that keep systems fluid?

As long as you are monitoring the trailer OFTEN, there should be no problems doing this. However, I suggest a backup electric cube heater set to a lower temp than the main thermostat, to act as a failsafe in case the propane tanks run dry or the furnace fails to light.

 

If the trailer is close by your residence, you can install a remote thermometer and keep an eye on the interior temp from your house.

 

I think going away and leaving your trailer at a remote location while relying on the just furnace to keep it from freezing is a HUGE, possibly expensive mistake. RV systems are simply not as reliable as residential units.

 

BTW, if you park your Ollie beside your home, can you run a propane hose from your big propane tank to the trailer, using a quick disconnect fitting, so you don't have to worry about the little tanks running dry? That would be a neat mod, as long as you remember to disconnect it before leaving!

 

John Davies

 

Spokane WA

[snowlakemike]

Thanks for the input, guys. I will certainly do what it takes so far as the water heater.  Being a Mississippi boy, I may hang a light bulb (small one) inside the shower compartment on those terrible cold nights of 12 to 25 degrees. Easy for me to check the furnace up till bed time, bit more complex after that. Electrical back up is probably a great idea. Guess I could sleep over in it, then I would know for certain :). The idea of running propane to the trailer is interesting. I am sure they'd hook me up for the cost of installation and a regulater. I was simply hoping for a connection to do a quick top off of my 30 lb tanks.

 

I do store the Ollie in its own little nest next to my guest house. This was built almost perfectly for the Ollie (2 inches to spare on top), with a 30a electric and a dump to the sewage treatment plant. (All the comforts).

 

I will get out there tomorrow and find that hot water bypass. My understanding is that it is a valve of some sort under the water heater which is under my bed next to the furnace.

 

FYI, we are off on our first extended trip next Sunday. No details here as this is a great thread on Winterization and I don't want to hijack it. Perhaps I can post details somewhere else...certainly pics on our return.

 

 

 

 

[ScubaRx]

Hey Mike,  from one Mississippi boy to another, after you have purged all the water from your system all you will need is a small 110 volt heater from Wal-Mart to keep your Ollie safe from freezing as well as warm and toasty inside all winter.  I usually keep the temp around 60 or so.  Just keep her plugged in and your batteries will stay charged also.  I don't think I'd try to run the propane furnace all winter, I'm sure it has a finite lifespan (especially the fan) and several months of constant use can't do anything but hasten its demise.

[John E Davies]

The idea of running propane to the trailer is interesting. I am sure they’d hook me up for the cost of installation and a regulater. I was simply hoping for a connection to do a quick top off of my 30 lb tanks.

Uhmmmm .... I was suggesting that you use low pressure gas from your residential tank to run your furnace. Your home tank is not plumbed correctly to supply liquid propane for filling, but it can perhaps be modified if your propane supplier is willing. There are potentially serious risks involved and I personally would not do this anywhere near a residence. There is a reason propane fill stations are located away from buildings.

 

Read post 4 at the following page, then you can decide if you want to do this. Here's the meat of that long post....

 

"It usually works pretty well, but one time I was fueling up an old Farmall H on propane and the check valve in the liquid line wouldn't seat... I tried tightening and loosening the valve several times (since the end of the hose connector has a pin that depresses the check valve to open it when the connection is made) to try to get the check valve to reseat, but it wouldn't... soon I was leaking liquid LP everywhere and of course being cryogenic, it starts freezing everything over as it boils away... So, with a full tractor tank, and the bulk tank hoses closed, the stupid thing is slobbering liquid LP everywhere and boiling off furiously into a billowing white cloud drifting clean across the field toward the highway-- I'm just praying nobody driving down the road tosses a cigarette or we're gonna have one h311 of a fuel-air explosion... I run to the shop and get some heavy leather welding gloves to try to tighten up the connection, but with the slobbering LP boiling off and freezing everything pretty soon even these heavy gloves are freezing solid... about this time the old man shows up and tells me "yeah, we had that happen once in awhile back in the old days-- get a 2x4 and smack on the valve til it seats"... So I grab a 2x4 block off the stack we keep under the diesel tank to block up equipment and start gently 'pile-driving' the check valve connection welded to the side of the tank... after some gentle and then a little more vigorous persuasion, the check valve finally snaps shut and I can let the connections thaw and then uncouple the hose... "

 

http://www.rocketryforum.com/showthread.php?30820-Filling-20lb-LP-tanks-from-residential-size-large-LP-tanks

 

Regardless, you have to weigh your tanks to properly fill them. Topping off is not as simple as topping off a compressed air cylinder where you just monitor the pressure gauge......

 

I sure wish Oliver would offer diesel appliances instead of propane.

 

John Davies

 

Spokane WA

[Try2Relax]

Mike,

 

If you've got that sweet overhang, wish I had one, and plugged in to a 30A feed, just leaving the thermostat set to electric heat and set to a low temp should be plenty to keep the trailer at temp, then if the outside air drops so badly it can't maintain, and goes more than 5 degrees below your setting then furnace will kick in to get it back up and go back to electric.

 

Living in New England this is what I did last winter and it worked great and used hardly any propane, the furnace pretty much only ran when it got down to mid 20's and below to help.

[topgun2]

Mike,

 

"I will get out there tomorrow and find that hot water bypass. My understanding is that it is a valve of some sort under the water heater which is under my bed next to the furnace."

 

If you can't find a picture of the winterization valves in question, you might want to take a look at Buzzy's article - EZ Winterizing System written July 17, 2016.  This article has a picture of the valves in question AND shows the direction the valves should be placed in to by-pass the water heater.  Obviously, once you have drained the heater, make sure that you put the valves back into the "standard" position so that the water heater may once again be filled BEFORE you try to heat water.

 

Bill

[DavidS]

Use air compressor set at 35 psi to blow air through fresh water fill, city water and the one in back of the trailer for at least 1 minute each. Do this with faucets open. Should expel all water  

I dont think this will work with the winterizing/boondocking water inlet port at the back of the trailer, because this inlet is blocked off the inlet valve (Valve B) before the water pump. It will work if the valves are set to the winterization configuration.

 

My method is as follows. With the air compressor hooked put to the Fresh Water Inlet, I put the valves in the Boondocking Configuration. Blowing air into the Fresh Water Inlet should blow water of the winterizing/boondocking water inlet port at the back of the trailer.

[donthompson]

Hi Dave,

 

I have a question. In your post you say "Don’t forget to blow out the black tank rinse inlet." When you attach the air compressor to this inlet, what do you leave open for any water to blow out? I don't understand all of the plumbing, but I assume the black water rinse outlet allows air (or water) to flow directly into the blank tank which can only exit through the toilet (ugh!) or the valve to dump the black tank. While my black tank is empty, I hesitate to open the black tank valve with the air compressor going. Will you please clarify how you do this?

 

Don

[donthompson]

All,

 

Has anyone figured out how high floor jacks need to be to support the Elite II during the winter to avoid flat spotting the tires? Also, any recommendations on specific jacks and where to place the floor jack pads under the Ollie to support it?

[DavidS]

When you attach the air compressor to this inlet, what do you leave open for any water to blow out?  

I believe the grey and black tanks are vented to the roof. Any air that is blown into the black tank should exit via the roof vent.

[ScottyGS]

Don,

 

I started a thread on this topic here.  It's been a few days and no replies on that thread.

 

http://olivertraveltrailers.com/topic/storage-protecting-tires/

 

I also put a link to a Camping world sale that you and others might be interested in.  It's a BOGO on tire covers.  I was going to use a tarp but got covers for both sides for under $20.  It's a good deal, check it out.

 

http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/item/elements-black-double-tire-cover-27-29-/84957

 

Any advice on this topic would be much appreciated.

 

Thanks,

Scotty

 

 

[DavePhelps]

Don,

 

Perhaps this is not vital to do, but after having the 'city water' back check valve freeze and break while at the factory (luckily we discovered it before leaving), I would not take any chances. Any air you blow through the black tank rinse port will just blow any collected water in that line into the black tank. No need to open the gate valve as the air will just exhaust out the vent on top of the trailer. Shouldn't take but a few seconds to blow that out.

 

Dave

[GrayGhost]

Curious to know what everyone does with their batteries for winter storage. Those with solar, do you leave the battery switch on and let the solar trickle charge all winter? Those without, do you leave the batteries in the trailer with the battery switch off, or remove batteries all together?

Thanks.

[donthompson]

My Ollie lives in an indoor storage facility when I'm not using it. I called Jason at Oliver because my battery level steadily declined while in storage this year (my first year--winterizing next week for the first winter storage). He advised me to make sure the batteries are fully charged before putting the camper in storage and to disconnect the main negative battery cable in the battery compartment.

 

Don

[snowlakemike]

Forgive the newbie, but two quest ions:  What? and Where? is a battery switch?  I have seen no reference in any manual. Does it stop energy flow from? to? the batteries?  from AC? from Solar?

 

Secondly, do you ever manually charge your battery group. My four unit-six volt Trojan wet group is under cover and slowly draining. Plugging it in does not seem to help. Can I put a 12 volt charger on it?  at the main positive and negative cables?

 

We are to head out in the am on an extended tour and are having battery issues!

 

 

 

 

[GrayGhost]

The battery switch I referred to is pictured below. It's under the access panel located under the bed that is closest to the cupboard (and the batteries). I believe if you turn this in the off position it will isolate your batteries from all of the electronically connections in the trailer.

Sorry I can't help with your battery issues above; I'm fine with mechanicals, when it comes to sorting out electrical issues I am on the sidelines....

 

 

 

[topgun2]

Mike,

 

I'm not the expert in this area, but, hope that some of this might help.

 

Yes, you can charge your batteries as a group - your onboard charger does this all the time by either charging while you are plugged into shore power (110 voltage line from your house or campsite power pole) or while you drive down the road plugged into your tow vehicle.  Obviously, the simplest way to charge is to run an extension cord from your house to the shore line input on the street side of the camper, plug it in and let the batteries charge.  You might want to check the water level in the batteries prior to doing this just to make sure that they are topped up.  It does take a little bit of time for a charge to show up but overnight should just about do it unless there are other issues going on (such as low fluid level in the batteries).

 

With regards to battery switches - the first thing that I would check is the breaker panel located under the dinette.  Make sure all those breakers are in the "on" position.  Then ,if you have the solar option, under the access panel on the street side rear of the camper is a large red "dial" switch that should be in the "on" position and near it are two reasonability strange looking "breakers" that are black.  If either of these two breakers have "tripped" you should see a little "yellow" flag sticking out to the side.  Simply push this yellow "flag" back into the black thing - don't worry you will not get shocked as long as that is the only thing you touch.

 

Finally, unless your batteries are dead (which I doubt) and you have solar, I'd hook-up and leave and let the sun and your tow vehicle take care of the batteries (assuming of course that the fluid level in the batteries is good).

 

Have a safe trip!

 

Bill

[Try2Relax]

The battery switch I referred to is pictured below. It’s under the access panel located under the bed that is closest to the cupboard (and the batteries). I believe if you turn this in the off position it will isolate your batteries from all of the electronically connections in the trailer. Sorry I can’t help with your battery issues above; I’m fine with mechanicals, when it comes to sorting out electrical issues I am on the sidelines….

 

At this time I am having SERIOUS power issues and have been on the phone with Blue Sky a bit, the red switch your reference ONLY cuts off the solar feed, so that if you are working on it and the sun comes up you won't get killed. There is no disconnect from the batteries, the red goes straight to the inverter, thru a huge fuse bar and connects to each of the thermal breakers next to the red switch. I've had to manually disconnect each of these physical connections to isolate the batteries from the system.

 

Hope this helps and keeps you safe

[Try2Relax]

At this time I am having SERIOUS power issues and have been on the phone with Blue Sky a bit, the red switch your reference ONLY cuts off the solar feed, so that if you are working on it and the sun comes up you won't get killed. There is no disconnect from the batteries, the red goes straight to the inverter, thru a huge fuse bar and connects to each of the thermal breakers next to the red switch. I've had to manually disconnect each of these physical connections to isolate the batteries from the system.

 

Hope this helps and keeps you safe

[snowlakemike]

Thanks, Bill and all

 

I had to delay my departure one day, but was fortunate enough to find the help I needed from someone in this caring group.  Turns out, I simply had a blown 30a fuse. While investigating, I got a good primer on Ollie setup and operation.  Much better prepared to start my trip now...and with lots of power.

 

 

 

 

 

 

[GrayGhost]

Wow, that's good to know....this is the first installation of these switches that I've run into where it's purpose was not to isolate the batteries entirely.

[topgun2]

Mike,

 

I hate saying this at a time like this and I don't mean to scare you, but, whenever a breaker is tripped or a fuse is blown there are two things that you should do.  One - try to figure out why it tripped or blew so that it will not happen again (i.e. repair what caused the problem or try to not overload that circuit again in the future).  Two - if it was a fuse that blew then you should not only replace it but you should carry at least one spare of each fuse type you have for those "emergencies" on the road.

 

Have a safe and fun trip!

 

Bill

[donthompson]

Do any of the members of the forum have a list of fuses used in an Elite II of recent vintage? Mine is a 2016. I'd like to carry spare fuses--but I'm not sure what type and amperage I need to have on hand.

 

Don

[John E Davies]

This a general comment on blown fuses.....

 

A fuse is installed in a circuit not to protect the device at the other end, but to protect the wiring. If the load shorts out (burns up and diverts the current straight to ground) then the excessive current will blow the fuse and keep the wiring from overheating and catching fire.

 

This is the main  function of fuses and circuit breakers (though the latter can be used to make circuits safe to work on by manually opening them.)

 

If a fuse blows, there is generally a physical reason. A manufacturing defect is one possibility, but this is rare there days. Trying to service or repair a device while it is hooked to power is another - the dreaded "sparks flying" scenario when your wrench shorts across the hot terminal and you say bad words...

 

If you replace a blown fuse and do not see any reason for it to be blown, make sure you keep an eye on it and definitely keep a spare or two in your kit. Check the load device and see if it shows any signs of distress, like overheating, discoloration, binding or stiff bearings (for a motor) or a nasty smell.

 

Never ever EVER replace a fuse with a higher rated one to keep it from blowing.

 

Be safe.

 

John Davies

 

Spokane WA

[snowlakemike]

That is what aluminum foil is for? Lol. For the post asking about spare fuses: a 30; a 20; 15 and 10 should suffice. Any issue should be very rare?