John E Davies Posted July 16, 2017 Share Posted July 16, 2017 I would like to thank John Shkor "sailerashore" for this method. He talks about it in great detail with pictures of his installation starting on Page 3 of the Anderson FAQ: ... http://olivertraveltrailers.com/topic/andersen-wd-hitch-faq/page/3/ I won't go into every single detail of the actual work, but will post my pics and add comments where I feel they would be helpful. A word of warning, if you want to install this hitch yourself you need to be very comfortable working and grinding metal, and have the proper tools to do this right. Putting the Anderson parts under the middle tube is very easy with excellent access. The loads on the brackets are pretty much straight so there will not be any twisting or loosening due to very high off-center loads. MATERIALS LIST: 4 feet Chain 3/8 G70 Zinc plated 8800 pound working load (truckers chain) @ $3.50 per foot 2 Quick Link 3/8 inch plated, 2200 pound working load @ $2.68 each (used one, kept a spare) 2 Quick Link 1/2 inch plated, 3300 pound working load @ $2.08 ea 4 Bolts 5/8-11 x 5 inches Grade 8 (1 inch longer than the provided soft bolts) @ $3.01 ea 4 Nuts 5/8-11 Grade 8 self locking @ $1.16 ea 4 Washers Grade 8 ("Thru-hard") @ $0.96 ea I bought all this stuff at the Spokane Fastenal store. Any commercial bolt supply company will have it. You won't find bolts this big at the box stores! THE INSTALLATION: My tow vehicle is a stock 2013 Land Cruiser 200. I needed the 4 inch kit and I decided that I would have to cut off the very top of the steel bracket for tailgate clearance. Cutting the bracket, it is mild steel and cuts easily but you need either a vise or a metal cutting band saw. These are big thick pieces of steel we are working with. The piece removed and the bracket smoothed using a bench top belt sander. Painted with gloss black brake caliper paint - my favorite for this kind of touchup because it requires no primer and it is tough and pretty. So much for the easy part, the chain cutting is tough! You can't touch this hard chain with a bolt cutter. The store uses a huge hydraulic machine to slice through the links. I used a bench top grinder to cut most of the way through a link, then I used a bolt cutter to break the rest. It took about fifteen minutes per link, with dunking in water - the steel gets hot! Rear bracket location: these parts need to be positioned so that there is some fore and aft adjustment and also some room for the inner plates to be mounted in front, as reinforcements. I selected the very middle of the open area below and in front of the propane bottles. I installed them with the hardware loose so I could bash them into position if needed using a dead blow mallet. Here is the chain and hardware: I originally bought 8 washers but ended up using them only under the nuts. Here is the chain mocked up to see how much I would have to cut off. The reason for the extra long length is in case I screwed up, and also to give me a spare chain of the correct length. Here are the two pieces cut to the correct length - 12 links. IMPORTANT NOTE: chain comes in different configurations and the chain you buy might require a different number of links, so figure it out by mock-up before cutting. Note the grinding marks on the links, and the vice grips needed to hold them. More to come, I do not want to lose this work. John Davies Spokane WA "Mouse": 2017 Legacy Elite II NARV (Not An RV) Two Beds, Hull Number 218, See my HOW TO threads: https://olivertraveltrailers.com/topic/john-e-davies-how-to-threads-and-tech-articles-links/ Tow Vehicle: 2013 Land Cruiser 200, 33" LT tires, airbags, Safari snorkel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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