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Broken latch battery tray


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I have not had that problem. I would like to see a clear picture of that failure.

 

When I push my battery tray in I pull the latch up rather than push it in hard and let the latch snap up and then down.

 

When my battery tray is all the way in and latched there is about 1/8 inch slop in the fit. I stick a folded up piece of cardboard (until I find something more expensive) in there to prevent any movement when on the road. That much weight moving back and forth is bound to damage something.

 

 

 

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Bill and Martha

2018 LEII Hull 313

2019 Chevrolet 2500HD Duramax with a custom Turboencabulator modification 

 

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After looking at that photo of the failure and looking at my latch plunger I believe that it is made out of “pot metal”. And instead of having 0.25 in^2 of cross sectional area to shear there is only about 0.125 in^2 of cross sectional area to shear. I will be looking for a latch made of steel to replace mine.

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Bill and Martha

2018 LEII Hull 313

2019 Chevrolet 2500HD Duramax with a custom Turboencabulator modification 

 

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Well, the plunger on mine attracts a magnet so it must not be pot metal. The break in your plunger looks like it is a cast material. Will that broken off piece stick to a magnet?

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Bill and Martha

2018 LEII Hull 313

2019 Chevrolet 2500HD Duramax with a custom Turboencabulator modification 

 

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BorninPalatka, Will that broken off piece stick to a magnet? If it doesn’t stick to a magnet it is probably pot metal. My plunger attracts a magnet. I am attempting to determine if they made a change to the latch.

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Bill and Martha

2018 LEII Hull 313

2019 Chevrolet 2500HD Duramax with a custom Turboencabulator modification 

 

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I haven't had any issues with the battery tray, but just as a safety backup plan I installed a simple stop for the tray. On each side of the slide rails, just beyond where they stop, when the tray is full pushed in and the latch is engaged, I drilled two 3/8 in holes and inserted 2x 3/8x1 in bolts.

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STEVEnBETTY

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Thanks very much for bringing this issue to light.... I just secured my tray, but I only added a single 1/4 inch stainless bolt. I really don’t think you need to have two. I positioned the hole so the head and two stacked lock washers were hard up against the slide with it latched fully closed ... it is going nowhere until I let it.

 

6EAFDF35-C2D1-412D-9D0C-1FE136EA09E5.thumb.jpeg.6ee61e19458206002ec3c40490981a2e.jpeg

 

John Davies

 

Spokane WA

 

 

"Mouse":  2017 Legacy Elite II NARV (Not An RV) Two Beds, Hull Number 218, See my HOW TO threads: https://olivertraveltrailers.com/topic/john-e-davies-how-to-threads-and-tech-articles-links/

Tow Vehicle: 2013 Land Cruiser 200, 33" LT tires, airbags.

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Steve & John -

While I like the simple idea of a using a bolt to prevent this tray from sliding, it does have its (potential) drawbacks. For those of us that still have the regular lead acid batteries it would be simpler to have an easily removable piece of hardware as opposed to the bolt. Obviously the problem is finding that piece of hardware given the relatively limited space available for it and not wanting any more movement in either the hardware or the tray than necessary. Once I get Twist back out of storage prior to this summer's Western fishing trip, I'll try a couple of things that might work in that space (wing nut, bolt drilled for a small hitch pin/clip, etc.). If not, there is always the bolt thing that you guys have used - thanks!

 

Bill

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2017 Ford F150 Lariat 3.5EB FX4 Max Towing 2016 Oliver Elite II - Hull #117 "Twist"

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Thanks Mark for your response. It looks like a casting to me. No machine marks and rounded edges. Granular structure at the break. Certainly not a machined steel bolt which would be stronger. Thanks again.

Bill and Martha

2018 LEII Hull 313

2019 Chevrolet 2500HD Duramax with a custom Turboencabulator modification 

 

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Yes I had the same issue. Latch broke in exactly the same place. Perhaps the weight of the battery tray is too much for the latch. I have requested a replacement latch. I share your concern that it too may break.

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Mark, so the plunger would go into a hole in the side plate where the other folks are adding the bolts?

Bill and Martha

2018 LEII Hull 313

2019 Chevrolet 2500HD Duramax with a custom Turboencabulator modification 

 

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Last year when I had to replace the complete battery rack due to rail failures on both sides; I installed an aluminum 90 degree angle bracket mounted with 1/4 inch SS machine screw. Without removing this device the rack can not be moved out; but it only takes a few minutes to remove for battery maintenance.

 

 

[attachment file=Battery Rack - security mod 1.jpg]

Battery-Rack-security-mod-1.thumb.jpg.ec3710096f8c2a6ad02d250f6d1fce74.jpg

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Horace & Dianne

Chesapeake, Virginia

2016 Toyota Tundra Crewmax 4x4 Limited

2015 Oliver Legacy Elite II - Hull # 93

 

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I wrote about this problems last year and "fixed" mine before it broke. The batteries are so heavy that any play will lead to something breaking while driving.

 

Whatever method you use, you must get the play down to zero so that the tray cannot hammer the latch by sliding back and forth while driving. If the latch doesn't break it will likely tear out the mounting screws instead.

 

I simply dropped in a wooden 1X2 stick, across the front of the tray, between the frame and the sliding part on mine and it has been fine.

 

I think Oliver has since upgraded the frame mounting bolts too.

 

This is an area that needs some attention during routine maintenance to make sure it is secure. Those batteries could escape right out through the exterior door causing severe damage.

John


"I only exaggerate enough to compensate for being taken with a grain of salt."


LE2 #92 (sold),   Black Series HQ19   

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Thanks to all for this heads-up.

 

it would be simpler to have an easily removable piece of hardware as opposed to the bolt.

 

I'm thinking of ordering this and then drilling the hole:

 

https://www.amazon.com/CURT-21504-Hitch-Pin-Clip/dp/B00H56NAPY/ref=sr_1_16?ie=UTF8&qid=1528582773&sr=8-16&keywords=hitch+pin+with+clip

 

See any reason not to got with this?

 

Onward through the Fog!


EarthPicks of Cochise County


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That is over half an inch diameter, way too large and heavy, you may be over estimating the hardware required.

 

Why not just use one or two small (1/4 inch) clevis pins? Or if you want fancy and stainless, .... https://www.amazon.com/VTurboWay-Release-diameter-Stainless-Hardware/dp/B07CWC6V73/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1528587602&sr=8-7&keywords=Clevis+pin+with+clip+1%2F4+inch

 

John Davies

 

Spokane WA

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"Mouse":  2017 Legacy Elite II NARV (Not An RV) Two Beds, Hull Number 218, See my HOW TO threads: https://olivertraveltrailers.com/topic/john-e-davies-how-to-threads-and-tech-articles-links/

Tow Vehicle: 2013 Land Cruiser 200, 33" LT tires, airbags.

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