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Removal and reseal of rear Oliver logo plate


jhorton

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I have found a water leak in the rear upper storage compartment.  The leak appears to be coming in around the box associated with the rear Oliver logo.  From what I can see the logo is held in place with 3m sealant and I assume the internal box is also.  I'm looking for advice on the best way to remove this plate without breaking it.  My initial thoughts are to use a razor knife to cut it loose then scrape and reseal the area.  Just wondering if anyone else has had to do this and any helpful hints or advice on the best way to proceed.

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jhorton,

 

We had the same problem.

 

Probably better tools available than what I used. Used a wood paint stir stick sharpened to a dull point on one end to remove the sealant without damaging lens or gel-coat. Took my time being very careful. After digging out all of the sealant possible with the lens in place, used the same wood paint stir stick sharpened on one end to lightly pry the lens out placing plenty of cloth padding between the wood stick and gel-coat to prevent damage to the gel-coat/lens. Removed the lens twice because of leaks.  Sealant used by Oliver leaked the first two times. Recommend contacting Oliver, they may be using different sealant on the Lens than sealant used during 2015. Last time used white Marine Silicone adhesive/sealant to stop the leak. Taped the lens and gel-coat with painters tape where I did not want the adhesive/sealant to contact. Placed the tape so it could be pulled off in one direction while applying the adhesive/sealant.

 

Have not had any leaks since sealing lens last year accumulating over 12,000 miles on Ollie during that time.

 

This is where the water dripped from the LED lens housing in the upper rear cabinet:

 

i-5k3cJzV-L.jpg

 

Resealed lens:

 

i-nTsWTWs-L.jpg

 

i-rCDV2xc-L.jpg

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Bill #75 LE2

 

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Thanks for the info.  I'll check with Oliver to see if they have changed sealant .  My leak is running down between the hulls to the window and dripping out under the inside window frame.  Just out of curiosity how long did the job take to complete?  Trying to figure out what kind of a time window i'll need to do this, it's rained almost every day for the last week.  Thanks again.
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We used a simple test once to determine if the leak was from the third light...

 

Ugly white duct tape around the third light told us that was, indeed, our leak source.

 

Now, resealing that spot is a check point... if the third light leaks, you will usually have water in the overhead cabinets,  but not always. Somet, it will just run straight down the hull, as it did for us, and look like a window leak.

 

Hope that helps.

 

Sherry

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Thanks for the info. I’ll check with Oliver to see if they have changed sealant . My leak is running down between the hulls to the window and dripping out under the inside window frame. Just out of curiosity how long did the job take to complete? Trying to figure out what kind of a time window i’ll need to do this, it’s rained almost every day for the last week. Thanks again.

 

Ours did the same, it dripped down between the hulls, around the rear window dripping out of the window frame on the curbside bed. As far as time to do the job, it takes me 4 times longer than other folks, I would give myself a day so not to hurry and to do the job right. Once the sealant is removed, follow directions on the adhesive/sealant tube cleaning/prepping area before installing.

 

 

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Bill #75 LE2

 

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Use a PLASTIC scraper and you will not scratch the gel coat. If you can find a piece of thick plexiglass, that works extremely well. I used this method for many years while working on aircraft. I used pieces of a busted windshield, but you may not be able to find that product ;) .... You can sharpen it with a belt sander or file and it cuts very well but does not damage soft surface.

 

Tip for finding a leak: use a blue paper shop towel folded up under the area. When a drop falls on it, the paper turns dark blue and it is super easy to see that the area is wet. Much much more visible than a cloth rag. This is a great method for finding plumbing leaks, you can leave the towel in place indefinitely and see any water seepage at a glance.

 

Follow the directions on the tube closely if you use a 3M 4000 type sealer. You must use MEK, toluene or a similar solvent to clean, NOT isopropyl alcohol, which will prevent the stuff from setting properly. That would ruin your day.

 

Since you are doing this outside, try to pick a mild dryer day, use a fast set product and allow a few hours at least. If you  like, you can secure a piece of plastic over the area before you leave, AFTER the sealant is no longer tacky to the touch and the blue masking tape is removed. If you have access to a canopy, you might be able to rig it close to the trailer and tape a tarp to the Ollie (across the gap) to provide a dry work space. Tip up the nose up if needed to get the top a little lower.

 

Be patient, do it right the first time. Take pictures! Good luck.

 

John Davies

 

 

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SOLD 07/23 "Mouse":  2017 Legacy Elite II Two Beds, Hull Number 218, See my HOW TO threads: https://olivertraveltrailers.com/topic/john-e-davies-how-to-threads-and-tech-articles-links/

Tow Vehicle: 2013 Land Cruiser 200, 32” LT tires, airbags, Safari snorkel, Maggiolina Grand Tour 360 Carbon RTT.

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I'm sure it has been posted some where before, but what does Oliver currently use as its factory installed sealer of choice. I have a few places that are suspect, and would like to use the same product.

 

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Cindy,  Russell and  "Harley dog" . Home is our little farm near Winchester TN

2018 Oliver Legacy Elite II - 2018 GMC 2500 Duramax 

"Die young - As late as possible"
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Oliver uses ASI335 sealant . They recommended using alcohol to prep the area .

 

John Davies you recommend a 3M product . Why? Also why do you recommend not using alcohol to prep?

 

3M specifically warns agains using alcohol for prep. Right there on the back lable. It inhibits the cure. For other brands, read and follow the manufacturer’s directions. It would be very bad to spend hours on a job, only to have the sealant not kick off due to a stupid senior moment brain fart in the prep work.

 

If I were doing this repair I would certainly use 3M 4000. It is a great product, though expensive. It is suitable for semi permanent repairs, where you hope never to have to do it again, but it would be possible to get the part loose.

 

John Davies

 

Spokane WA

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SOLD 07/23 "Mouse":  2017 Legacy Elite II Two Beds, Hull Number 218, See my HOW TO threads: https://olivertraveltrailers.com/topic/john-e-davies-how-to-threads-and-tech-articles-links/

Tow Vehicle: 2013 Land Cruiser 200, 32” LT tires, airbags, Safari snorkel, Maggiolina Grand Tour 360 Carbon RTT.

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Bobfirst, Thanks for the information about ASI 335 currently used by Oliver.

 

Talked to ASI a few minutes ago about applying ASI 335 silicone, they said using alcohol for surface prep on a clean surface is OK with ASI 335.

 

Next leak reseal, plan to use ASI 0240 adhesive remover/cleaner before installing ASI 335.

 

http://www.thesealantandadhesivesource.com/asi-335-neutral-cure-silicone-sealant-adhesive/

 

ASI 0240 can be used to clean surface when silicone residue is being removed before installing new silicone.

 

http://www.thesealantandadhesivesource.com/asi-0240-adhesive-remover-cleaner/

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Bill #75 LE2

 

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  • 1 year later...
On 11/13/2018 at 2:02 PM, jhorton said:

I have found a water leak in the rear upper storage compartment.  The leak appears to be coming in around the box associated with the rear Oliver logo.  From what I can see the logo is held in place with 3m sealant and I assume the internal box is also.  I'm looking for advice on the best way to remove this plate without breaking it.  My initial thoughts are to use a razor knife to cut it loose then scrape and reseal the area.  Just wondering if anyone else has had to do this and any helpful hints or advice on the best way to proceed.

I sealed my Oliver sign from the inside. Quick and easy.

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