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mdernier

Leveling LEII with scissor jacks under the axles

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As a newbie, I'm not really keen on having to roll the LEII into level.  I'm interested in any opinions as to the effectiveness/safety of leveling LEII with a pair of 2 ton scissor jacks under the respective axles on one side?  Specifically, I'm thinking of putting the LEII in the spot that I want, chocking the uphill wheels, putting a respective scissor jack under each axle on the downhill side, and jacking the rig level.  Then, I'd level for and aft with the tongue jack (unhitching in the process), drop the stabilizing bars, and call it a day.  An optional step would be to place pads under the lifted wheels.  What do you experts think about this process?


Looking forward to years of exploring in our 2019 LE II, pulling with an F150, V8, 3.73 rear, 4x4 Off Road, tow package . . . All I need to do is retire first!  Matthew   <><

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I wouldn’t jack under the axles. We’ve found the big yellow legos work well for side to side leveling. Lots of folks like the Andersen style. We fine tune with the back jacks. It’s quick, stable and pretty fool proof. Mike

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Mike and Carol | Fair Oaks Ranch, TX | 2016 Elite II #135 | 2020 Ram Rebel 4X4 5.7L Hemi

ALAZARCACOFLGAIDILKSKYLAMDMSMOMTNENVNMNYNCNDOHOKSCSDTNTXUTVAWVWYsm.jpg

 

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The manufacturer of the axles says never place jack stands or jacks under the axles to support the weight of the trailer.  I learned about this after I decided to store my Olliver Elite II with jack stands under the axles.  Long story, but the axles were replaced a couple of years ago following this ill-advised experience.  But, how to level?  The Elite II has three jacks that will allow you to level the camper if where you are parked is relatively level.  I use Anderson Trailer Jack Blocks under my three jacks to keep from having to extend the jacks too far and to keep from having the ends of the jacks sink in soft or unstable soil.  Expensive and they take up space, but I like them a lot.  Go to andersenhitches.com and look at the trailer jack blocks.  When the site is too uneven side to side to get the camper level without lifting the tires off the ground on one side, I use Andersen's camper levelers.  I replaced my stacking blocks with these after my first year of camping with my Oliver and I'm happy that I did.

 

Sorry about the multiple photos of the levelers!

3608m-trailer-jack-block-singlejpg20170831114716.thumb.jpg.f11dd6436cfd4079c9c4e984eb6fcd87.jpg

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Don

 

2020 Conqueror UEV 490 Extreme Platinum

 

 

2019 Ram Rebel

 

 

States I visited with my Ollie (Sold October, 2019)

 

 

States Visited Map

 

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YES, Andersen levelers are expensive, but, worth it.  YES, "Legos" are cheaper, a little more difficult to use, but, they get the job done.  YES, scraps of lumber are even cheaper, are heavier and can be dirtier, but, they also get the job done.  NO, don't jack the axles.

 

Bill

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2017 Ford F150 Lariat 3.5EB FX4 Max Towing 2016 Oliver Elite II - Hull #117 "Twist"

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I ordered (and waiting on) the two Andersen levelers and three Andersen Jack Blocks. Also, ordered (and waiting on) the LevelMate Pro. Although have not picked up hull #444 until April, have been stocking up so many different items (Amazon loves me).

 

In one post, 3M VHB tape was mentioned as a method for attaching a level (bubble) to the exterior of the OTT. I am not familiar with 3M VHB tape, but, after a small amount of research, this appears to be incredible tape. Much stronger bonding than command strips? I am interested in hearing experience and knowledge regarding 3M VHB tape so I can order from Amazon and add to my room full of "supplies". Tape advertised to be this bonding must be a handy addition for an RVer reluctant to drill holes into fiberglass.

 

Comments?


KWR


2019 Oliver Legacy Elite II, Hull#444


2019 GMC Sierra 2500HD Crew Cab, 4WD, Denali, Duramax 6.6L Turbo Diesel V8 Engine with Allison 6-speed transmission

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If you are adverse to drilling holes then this is your solution. It’s better that 90 mph duct tape. For installation of the bubble levelers, nothing would be better.  They won’t come off till you want them off.


Steve, Tali and the dogs: Reacher, Lucy and Rocky plus our beloved Storm and Maggie (both waiting at the Rainbow Bridge) 2008 Legacy Elite I - Outlaw Oliver, HULL NUMBER: 0026 2014 Legacy Elite II - Outlaw Oliver, HULL NUMBER: 0050 2017 Silverado High Country 2500HD Diesel 4x4 

 

      ALAKAZARCACOCTDEFLGAIDILINIAKSKYLAMEMDMA       ABBCMBNSYTsm.jpg

 

 

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If jacking the trailer one should put the jack under the spring plate, that attaches the axles to the springs. If done this way no damage would be done to the axles. of course the jack would have to be placed so it would not be hitting any of the " U " bolts. I believe this would be the correct way to change a tire also.

 

Please correct me if i am wrong.

 

Harold

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Sue & Harold


Oliver Elite II Twin bed,  Hull #508, Ram 2500


     INKYMIOHTNsm.jpg                              

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Am I missing something?

 

It is my understanding from Anita, at Oliver, the electric jacks at the back of the trailer are for leveling the trailer from side to side.  Leveling blocks/Anderson Levelers under the tires are not necessary, unless the site is extremely unlevel.

 

I see this a big selling point for the Oliver. Am I misinformed?

 

Please note, we are picking up our first Oliver on May 29th.

 

Andrew


Andrew, Carianne and Buffy | San Diego, CA


2019 Legacy Elite II Hull #468 "California Burrito" | 2018 BMW x5 35d 

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Although have not picked up hull #444 until April, have been stocking up so many different items (Amazon loves me).

 

Had to laugh at this because I’ve been doing the exact same thing in preparation for our May delivery.  Every day my wife asks “what is being delivered today?” with a roll of her eyes.   Based on recommendations from people on this forum and other RVing sites, the downstairs family room is now full of milk crates loaded up with all the water filters, hose adapters, electrical accessories, sewage accessories, leveling Lego blocks, Andersen jack blocks, a very complete tool kit, first aid kit, collapsible ladder, Rock Tamer mud flaps for my tow vehicle, etc.   and a keurig K-mini Plus coffee maker (this is for the wife, she did want this).  And she did take care of all the bedding purchases (twin bed floor plan).   At least we’ll be prepared.  Although a yard sale at the rally in May might be needed to sell off some of the things I may have over bought. ?


2019 Elite II - Hull #461


Tow Vehicle: 2019 Nissan Armada. 

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Am I missing something?

 

It is my understanding from Anita, at Oliver, the electric jacks at the back of the trailer are for leveling the trailer from side to side. Leveling blocks/Anderson Levelers under the tires are not necessary, unless the site is extremely unlevel.

 

I see this a big selling point for the Oliver. Am I misinformed?

 

Please note, we are picking up our first Oliver on May 29th.

 

Andrew

 

You’re going to get differing points of view on this. I have used the stabilizing jacks to lift the trailer to remove tires (rebalance after TPMS install). I would use the stabilizing jacks if I had a flat on the side of the road. But, for long term leveling I prefer to use something under the tires to get near level and then use the jacks to fine tune. At first I just had some scrap 2X6’s but now use the big yellow legos. I can tell by the front jack bubble level how many I’ll need. Usually one or two is enough. I also made 8” blocks to put under all three jacks so they aren’t extended too far, and supplement them with the legos when needed. Mike

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Mike and Carol | Fair Oaks Ranch, TX | 2016 Elite II #135 | 2020 Ram Rebel 4X4 5.7L Hemi

ALAZARCACOFLGAIDILKSKYLAMDMSMOMTNENVNMNYNCNDOHOKSCSDTNTXUTVAWVWYsm.jpg

 

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I have a 6" torpedo level that we keep near the door. When putting the unit on a site we get an idea how level or how much adjusting we might have to do before unhooking. Fore and aft on the tongue gives me an idea about whether or not I will have to raise to disconnect, or disconnect, move the TV, and lower. By putting the level cross wise I know about how level from side to side before disconnecting, in case I have to move. A final check on the rear bumper confirms. Legos on one side , if needed, level the front. Only then do we lower the rear stablizers onto 11" blocks. We confirm with the rear number and then put the level away. This system has worked for many years. Never heard of, nor would want to, jack under or near the axles. Can't imagine the time and stability issues that could raise...

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Am I missing something?

 

It is my understanding from Anita, at Oliver, the electric jacks at the back of the trailer are for leveling the trailer from side to side. Leveling blocks/Anderson Levelers under the tires are not necessary, unless the site is extremely unlevel.

 

I see this a big selling point for the Oliver. Am I misinformed?

 

Please note, we are picking up our first Oliver on May 29th.

 

Andrew

 

Officially, per the manual, you can't.  They used to tell everyone that you could, and everyone did, but then I'm guessing a lawyer showed up.  Whatever the reason, the manual now says don't.  Anita has been with Oliver for forever, so maybe she missed the memo, or maybe she's a member of a secret organization of rebellious pirates, the existence of which I cannot confirm, who still use their jacks however they d.w. please.

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Snowball • LE2 256 • 2018 Ford Raptor

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maybe she’s a member of a secret organization of rebellious pirates, the existence of which I cannot confirm, who still use their jacks however they d.w. please.

 

:)


Bill

LE2 Tundra

 

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After several experiments with leveling, we have found this process to work for us, allowing us to set up quickly:

 

1. Check the lay of the land to estimate the best place to place the trailer tires.

 

2. Place the trailer there and check the side-to-side level with a Stanley 42-324 24-Inch I-Beam 180 Level on the bumper.

 

3. If one side needs lifting, roll back or forward a foot or a little more to place the Andersen levelers under that the trailer on that side.

 

4. I roll up on the Andersens while my wife observes and then checks the level telling me to pull forward, back, or stay put.

 

5. Once, level, we chock with two Camco 44414 Wheel Chocks and one CAMCO 44652 WHEEL STOP CHOCK.

 

6. We use four or five Lynx Levelers to form a block for the stabilizer jacks so the jacks do not have to reach the ground and, if we make a big error by driving off without retracting the jacks, we don't damage them.

 

7. Use the front jack to level front to back. It is interesting that we found the best place for us to place the level when doing this is atop the top refrigerator vent cover. It can be set in place by placing one end in the handle used for entering and existing the trailer.

 

8. Use the rear stabilizing jacks to fine-tune the side-to-side leveling.

 

Also interesting, when ascertaining how level we are, is that we hang a dog leash on a suction hook right by the door. It is easy to see how level the trailer is front to back by how parallel it is to the side of cabinet holding the microwave and refrigerator. In addition, if the bathroom door can stay open at about a 45-degree angle--not swinging street side or curbside, open or close--we are confident that the trailer is level.

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Onward through the Fog!


EarthPicks of Cochise County


AZCACOKSMONVNMORTNTXUTmed.jpg

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The jack bubble is often wrong..  especially in weather or elevation changes.

 

We have a little pocket pen level, and i often use a half empty water bottle placed on its side on the floor, as a handy level.

 

If the level is comfortable for you,  in most cases, it's level enough for the fridge.  If our site is super difficult to level, we always opt for heads on bed  higher than lower..

 

We use cutoff leftover lumber for leveling, and jack supports to decrease travel of the jacks  free, burnable, biodegradable,  easily replenishable, at least for us  not plastic.  Though plastic would be lighter.

 

 

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2008 Ram 1500 4 × 4

2008 Oliver Elite, Hull #12
 

 

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