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Battle Born Lithium Ion 12 Volt Batteries in an Oliver?


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I don't think most would be getting into the settings -- maybe some have.  The factory system is a little user unfriendly.  "How much battery do I have left?"  Well take a look at the voltage, but that could be off based on whether Solar is charging or not, there is a high load or not, etc...

I have two, ugly displays inside that basically provide useless information about electricity.  

The electricity system is probably my #3 peeve about the Oliver.  The top two are the Truma's lack of re-circulation (wasting water/gray tank - one SKU away from optimal) and the Air Conditioner/Heating System (there's room for a much more efficient, quieter mini-split).  The electricity is probably the easiest to fix though - I just need to wrap my head around the full build I need for the new Victron 200Ah batteries and setup the time to tear everything apart and if I am going to make the jump to support 240V (for future mini split install). 

2019 LE2 #529.   Standard Floorplan.

2020 GMC Sierra 2500 Duramax

 

 

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We have a Legacy Elite II (2020). Has anyone tried to install 4 Battle Born lithium 100 Ah 12 Volt GC2 upright batteries into what was the stock, 4 lead acid batteries tray? Will 4 of the lithium upright GC2 batteries fit in the existing tray? Thanks much!!

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You can use cables or what I used was buss bars and locked the four batteries together with a piece of material called star board which I machined to interlock the batteries together. I used that to mount the main fuse, the disconnect switch and the Victron battery monitor. Here is a link to the project.

http:// Home Oliver Campers Ollie Modifications Lithium Battery Upgrade  

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In an RV, solid copper bus bars between the battery terminals are great IF you can ensure there is no motion whatsoever. If the batteries can shift even a small amount, there can be extensive damage. I doubt that BB would warrant them in that case. If you hit a deep pothole at highway speeds and they shift, uh oh.... I installed two regular sized ones, with room for a third. All batteries have two Mil-Spec (zero stretch) straps crossing them, for redundancy, plus tight fitting spacers at the bottom. Remove two nuts at the wall posts, pop off the cables, slide out the tray. Easy

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John Davies

Spokane WA

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"Mouse":  2017 Legacy Elite II NARV (Not An RV) Two Beds, Hull Number 218, See my HOW TO threads: https://olivertraveltrailers.com/topic/john-e-davies-how-to-threads-and-tech-articles-links/

Tow Vehicle: 2013 Land Cruiser 200, 33" LT tires, airbags, Safari snorkel.

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Hey, thanks for sharing you guys! I am trying to decide between using four BB GC2 batteries and three regular BB 100 amp batteries.

So you must not be using your batteries for the air conditioner, even the little amount it could be used?

Do you have the solar panels?

Thanks again!

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4 hours ago, Brian Z said:

Hey, thanks for sharing you guys! I am trying to decide between using four BB GC2 batteries and three regular BB 100 amp batteries.

So you must not be using your batteries for the air conditioner, even the little amount it could be used?

Do you have the solar panels?

Thanks again!

I’ve got the older 320W solar panels.  We don’t use the AC much at all.  Too loud.  No, we’ve never run the AC off of the batteries.  The two BB’s do fine running everything else.  We’ve never been below 80% in the morning after running the furnace, lights, occasional microwave, etc.  Mike

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Texas Hill Country | Elite II #135 | Ram 2500 6.7L

ALAZARCACOFLGAIDILKSKYLAMDMSMOMTNENVNMNYNCNDOHOKSCSDTNTXUTVAWVWYsm.jpgALAZARCACOCTDEFLGAIDILINIAKSKYLAMEMDMAMS

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22 hours ago, Mike and Carol said:

I’ve got the older 320W solar panels.  We don’t use the AC much at all.  Too loud.  No, we’ve never run the AC off of the batteries.  The two BB’s do fine running everything else.  We’ve never been below 80% in the morning after running the furnace, lights, occasional microwave, etc.  Mike

The AC is definitely loud! We did not realize you could run the microwave on the batteries. We have the 340 W solar... pretty much rookies with our Oliver. We are grateful for you insight! Thanks!

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Brian Z - 

Forgive me if I'm wrong, but, having just re-read the last couple of entries in this thread, I believe that there just might be some mixing of apples and oranges going on here.

All your solar panels do is put a charge/current into your batteries.  In turn, your batteries are then used directly for power for 12 volts things like your lights, TV, radio, fridge, etc.  Anything that requires 110/120 volts takes current from your 12 volt batteries (whether lead acid, AGM's or lithiums), runs the 12 volts through your inverter/converter to change from the 12 volts to 110/120 volts and then powers your device.  So, there are two things then that come into play - your battery capacity and the capacity of your inverter/converter.  Besides having a big enough battery bank with enough amp hours to run/operate whatever it is you're trying to use for the amount of time you'd like to use it, you must have an inverter/converter that will be big enough to supply the converted voltage.  This is one of the reasons that the Oliver lithium package has a 3,000 watt inverter/converter as part of the package versus the "standard" 2,000 inverter/converter that is in most other Ollies.  And, even with that inverter/converter size of 3,000 watts, the fairly large battery of lithium batteries will only run the air conditioner for about 4 hours. 

Hopefully I have not confused the issue for you.

Bill

2017 Ford F150 Lariat 3.5EB FX4 Max Towing 2016 Oliver Elite II - Hull #117 "Twist"

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I appreciate everyone's guidance. No worries about the confusion. I think I am starting to get this. Everybody's comments have inspired me to do more research also. Pretty amazing stuff! Our needs seem to be going towards the three regular BBs and keeping the 2000 watt inverter for now. I may change to the 3000 watt inverter before I am finished. With the additional potential of the 3000 watt inverter it seems like a good idea. Battle Born is having a great sale right now but still pretty pricey.

I really like your setup above with everything in the battery tray!  BB did not say anything about adding a fuse at the batteries but it looks like a very good option.

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1 hour ago, Brian Z said:

BB did not say anything about adding a fuse at the batteries but it looks like a very good option.

The terminal post fuse is there to protect the wire(s) between there and the main 250 amp fuse. Otherwise a big cable could short out and cause problems. The factory wires are completely unprotected (electrically speaking). As delivered mine were not wrapped with plastic split loom and were wearing on the top edge of the steel battery tray. The insulation was about 1/3 gone. 😳

The tray sits on fiberglass, which won’t in itself conduct electricity, but the center bolt is attached to the aluminum floor support and then to the main frame. The floor has an aluminum “core” so anything attached to it (with rivets or bolts) will conduct through that path.

John Davies

Spokane WA

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"Mouse":  2017 Legacy Elite II NARV (Not An RV) Two Beds, Hull Number 218, See my HOW TO threads: https://olivertraveltrailers.com/topic/john-e-davies-how-to-threads-and-tech-articles-links/

Tow Vehicle: 2013 Land Cruiser 200, 33" LT tires, airbags, Safari snorkel.

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