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Retrofitting Natures Head Composting Toilet in 2016 LE II


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Hello,

 

Have searched the forum but cannot find where anyone has removed their standard commode and retrofitted a composting toilet.

 

Just ordered a Natures Head composting toilet and will be installing it. Saw the pictures John posted underneath a factory installed Natures Head which have been helpful but have a couple of questions-

 

1. How did you block off the opening in the black tank?

 

2. How is the composting toilet vent tied into the existing tank vent stack?

 

3. Do you have a link to a forum post where someone detailed their composting toilet retrofit?

 

Thank You,

 

Neil

Neil & Diana

 

Living full time in our Oliver traveling North America

 

 

2016 Oliver Legacy Elite II Raised Twin Bed. Hull # 138

 

 

2020 F250 4x4, Supercab, Longbed, 7.3 gasser

 

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I think John Davies was the first to install a composting toilet. He did an extensive post, with photos, of the upgrade.

 

http://olivertraveltrailers.com/topic/natures-head-composting-toilet-installation-in-an-oliver-big-thread/

 

I don't remember if he installed it, or the factory.

 

Sherry

2008 Ram 1500 4 × 4

2008 Oliver Elite, Hull #12

Florida and Western North Carolina, or wherever the truck goes....

400 watts solar. DC compressor fridge. No inverter. 2 x 105 ah agm batteries .  Life is good.


        
 

 

 

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Thanks Sherry.

 

I read through that post and couldn't tell if John did the install or the factory.

 

In that post John has a picture of a clear plug in the top of the black tank. I am hoping to get the detail on that plug so I can purchase for my retrofit.

 

Also looking for detail on the composting toilet vent hose tie in to the Oliver vent so I can pre-purchase the needed material.

 

Thanks for the help

 

Neil

Neil & Diana

 

Living full time in our Oliver traveling North America

 

 

2016 Oliver Legacy Elite II Raised Twin Bed. Hull # 138

 

 

2020 F250 4x4, Supercab, Longbed, 7.3 gasser

 

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I removed my black tank and sewer line entirely. Not the easiest operation but not impossible either.  No photos but I could walk you through it if you want to go that route.  There was a lot of cutting involved.

 

If I remember correctly, Oliver adds a T to the vent pipe and there’s a pvc adapter to get the size down to fit the vent hose.

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Overland,

 

Thanks for the offer but not sure if I want to go that far yet.

 

Did you remove the black tank through the dinette seat?

 

Did it come out in one piece?

Neil & Diana

 

Living full time in our Oliver traveling North America

 

 

2016 Oliver Legacy Elite II Raised Twin Bed. Hull # 138

 

 

2020 F250 4x4, Supercab, Longbed, 7.3 gasser

 

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I did and it did not. I think that the correct way must be to remove the floor in the bath. I used an oscillating cutter and cut the tank in two (i.e., hacked it into several pieces) to get it out through the dinette. I removed the sewer line in a similarly elegant manner.

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Hey, my NH was one of the first factory installations. My suggestion is to talk to Service and see if they can send you plumbing drawings for the vent system, and also a recommendation on how to cut out the toilet flange and replace it with a flat plate underneath the floor. You might want to consider some sort of cover for the opening in the bathroom floor, mine is wide open and I can inspect my black tank every time I remove the main unit. I am unsure if this is good or bad...

 

You will need access to the vent under the bathroom sink, so the storage bin thing in front will have to be removed.

 

While you are redoing the vent, find the fresh water flush line that goes to the standard toilet and cut and cap it where it tees into the faucet line. You won’t need that line any more, and winterizing it is a small bother since antifreeze shoots everywhere including your face... just disconnect it completely. Leave the cut piece of line tied up nearby, in case a future owner wants to go back to a flush toilet.

 

In addition to the vent you will need a 12 volt fused power and ground. The factory installation uses a spare slot in the fuse box below the dinette. You need a 2.5 or 3 amp fuse. A 1 amp will blow.

 

Please start a new thread with pictures and stuff, I am sure others have been considering this mod. Good luck.

 

John Davies

 

Spokane WA

SOLD 07/23 "Mouse":  2017 Legacy Elite II Two Beds, Hull Number 218, See my HOW TO threads: https://olivertraveltrailers.com/topic/john-e-davies-how-to-threads-and-tech-articles-links/

Tow Vehicle: 2013 Land Cruiser 200, 32” LT tires, airbags, Safari snorkel, Maggiolina Grand Tour 360 Carbon RTT.

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I just checked my vent since mine is all still apart.  The vent pipe is 1.5" ABS, so you'll need a 1.5" ABS tee, a 1.5" to 1.25" ABS adapter, and then a short piece of 1.25" PVC pipe, maybe 3" or 4".  The Nature's Head hose will fit over the 1.25" PVC.  Oliver puts some sealant on the hose to hold it in place but I'm thinking a hose clamp would do a better job.

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John and Overland,

 

Thanks for the info.

 

Neil

Neil & Diana

 

Living full time in our Oliver traveling North America

 

 

2016 Oliver Legacy Elite II Raised Twin Bed. Hull # 138

 

 

2020 F250 4x4, Supercab, Longbed, 7.3 gasser

 

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[postquote quote=177285][/postquote]

 

Is it still apart because you haven’t finished installing the NH toilet or are you putting in that new sink/shower combo faucet you wished you had done before?  If it’s the faucet, which make and model are you using?

 

Mike

Mike and Krunch   Lutz, FL  
2017 LEII #193 “the dog house”

 

 

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I’m doing a number of things. I wanted to mount my inverter more solidly, and since it’s in the front dinette seat I figured it was now or never if I wanted to get rid of the black tank. Then as part of redoing the inverter I wanted to reroute the heavy cables back to the battery, since they were all run through some tight spots with no extra space for protective looms. They’re heavy welding cables but I still will feel better if they’re run through a loom and not wedged tight between the fiberglass. Taking out the sewer line gave me much more room for both those and the existing Oliver wiring. It also preps for if I ever decide to place some batteries in the space below the pantry, which is something in the back of my mind. And while I’m in there I’m cleaning, zip tieing, etc.

 

I also widened the hole under the toilet for better access to the wiring and plumbing under it and I think that’s where I’ll smuggle drugs store extra peat for the toilet. Just need to figure out a basket or something to keep the bags from getting lost in the hull. And yes, then comes the sink & faucet mod which I’m still researching (and waiting for Oliver to get back on selling me a new countertop without holes cut in it).

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Now I know why you took out the black tank.  It really didn’t make sense to me until you explained your reasoning.  Did you remount your inverter on plywood?  I seem to remember you mentioned that before.

 

Thanks, Mike

Mike and Krunch   Lutz, FL  
2017 LEII #193 “the dog house”

 

 

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Yep. plywood.  I'm also trying to figure out a position to mount it so that I have room to store our vortex heater in there as well.  I've been doing that already, but it's a tight fit and I want the inverter to have proper room to breathe.

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