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Winterization issues when using the winterization/boondocking port - First Time

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Paula and I did our first winterization of "The Swallow", hull 509, today and had some issues with drawing in the RV antifreeze from the winterization/boondocking port. We were following the printed list and the video that is on the Oliver website. We made sure that our water tank and grey tank was empty. During this process, I did open the kitchen and bathroom faucets, and tilted the trailer to speed the process. We had previously done the Truma so we only had to orient the valves for the winterization so that all the valves pointed to the rear of the trailer. We placed the 3 foot hose connected to the boonndocking/winterization port and turned the pump on. After a brief flow of water, we had spits and starts of foam and RV fluid, but no steady stream and the draw from the RV gallon bottle was very slow. We tried doing the kitchen and the bathroom to the same result. We did orient the hose in the RV antifreeze with some benefit, but it wasn't until we disconnected the hose at the boondocking/winterization port did we get substantially more RV fluid at the faucets. I suspected an air lock at the pump initially and eventually checked the screen in the strainer, but even though we found some bits of plastic, it didn't correct the issue immediately. We fiddled and fumbled taking time to stop the pump frequently. We eventually did get a better flow, but it took some time. Can anyone advise us as to what is normal for the winterization process? I suspect that by draining the water from the faucets too soon that I may have created the airlock.


David Caswell and Paula Saltmarsh


Hull 509 "The Swallow"

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I always blow out all the lines first with air. Then our water heater is put on bypass. I hand pump antifreeze into the city inlet until it comes out the outside shower.Then we hook up the short hose, open the cold bathroom faucet, and turn on the pump..and so forth, and so forth...

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Bob, I’ll try that order.  It sounds like doing the outside first would prime the lines and pump and might be a better order overall.

 

David


David Caswell and Paula Saltmarsh


Hull 509 "The Swallow"

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David,

 

I think the Oliver winterizing instructions are for the standard water heater. Thre is a bypass valve in the back on the Truma, and I suspect that this needs to be closed for you to be successful in pumping antifreeze in the system.

 

I use an air compressor to blow air out of the system and only use antifreeze to pour into the P traps. One time when winterizing, the air compressor was largely ineffective in expelling water from the lines, but then I realized I had forgotten to close the Truma bypass valve. I closed the valve and it then worked very well.

 

Here is a picture that I took of the valve and included in my winterizing checklist.

 

Truma-AquaGo-Bypass-Valve.thumb.jpg.a448ca7644cf1666a6ea0ade03d225b2.jpg

 

BTW, Oliver put a circular access panel between the heating duct and the air return below the curbside bed, so that you could reach through to get to this valve. I found this quite difficult, and I get to the bypass valve via the rectangular rear curbside access panel under the bed. This is the one screwed down with a notice saying something like "no user-serviceable components in this compartment."

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David Stillman, Salt Lake City, Utah

2016 Oliver Elite II  Hull 164    |    2017 Audi Q7 tow vehicle. 

Travel and Photography Blog: http://davidstravels.net

 

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David, we winterized the Truma a couple weeks back when we had a few cold days and I did find the bypass valve.  I also founded easier to use the access under the bed/seat using that panel due to the width of my hands.

 

Thanks for your suggestions


David Caswell and Paula Saltmarsh


Hull 509 "The Swallow"

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