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Rocking Toilet/Broken Flange


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We removed the Dometic toilet to determine why it was rocking on the base. The flange was broken at the slot which holds the T-bolt. We didn’t know how to remove the base flange. Our solution was to use a universal drain toilet spanner flange. We were unable to reach the service department. Is the base flange threaded or glued in? Has anyone tried to replace the base flange?

 

 

 

 

 

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  • 3 months later...

Our flange was broken in three places after 1 year of intermittent use.  I've posed the same question about flange removal and replacement to the service department.  Will update this thread when Jason replies.

 

Update:  Had the flange replaced by RV Service Center.  Flange was glued to short pipe (see below)  which was inserted through a rubber "grommet" into the top of the black tank.  After considerable effort, I gave up for fear of breaking something during removal.  RV service tech said that he also struggled mightily to get it out (he had to confer with Jason.  Thanks Jason).  Tech replaced flange with similar part and had to chamfer (grind to form a bevel) and lubricate to get the "tail pipe" reinserted through the rubber grommet.  Perhaps Oliver construction team should lube pipe well before installing.  Should have been an easy fix, but wasn't.

 

image.thumb.png.62fc72b3d479639aa1aebdf5aeb5f6c8.png

Oliver_Toilet_Flange.jpg

Edited by GreenMountain
Follow up to original post

Vermonter

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One thought is to remove the screws and see. Another is that like the op, you’re probably better off just buying a stainless ring to go over it, so there’s no need to remove it. 
https://www.amazon.com/Oatey-42778-Grommets-4-Inch-Stainless/dp/B003FX6ED6/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=stainless+toilet+flange+ring&qid=1595854362&sr=8-3

A third thought is that adding a stainless ring might be a pretty good preventive maintenance measure.  

I’m surprised (no, not really) that Oliver uses a plastic flange that’s all but destined to break in an RV environment. 

I think I might be inclined to add a few spots of marine adhesive to the bottom of the toilet when you put it back. 

Edited by Overland
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40 minutes ago, Overland said:

better off just buying a stainless ring to go over it, so there’s no need to remove it. 

This is the best solution by far. A replacement ABS flange will most likely just break again at some point.

Edited by bhncb
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I would also add: Be mindful of the screw lengths used to install the repair ring. Before drilling any holes, I'd remove one or two of the existing screws and test the depth available with a straight length of coat hanger wire or similar.

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“IF” the Oliver folks advise the flange can be removed without too much grief, I d opt to replace with a Sioux Chief flange.  There are websites suggesting the RV flanges removal is not difficult.

 

RV Toilet Flange Glued to Pipe

Depending on your RV model you may run into a toilet flange that is glued or cemented into place. You do not have to worry because breaking that seal is not that hard to do.

All you will need is a good chisel and a solid hammer. Just place the chisel between the flange and where it is glued to and give the chisel a good firm tap. The seal should break without causing any damage.

 

Edited by Dean
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Edit: 4/29/2022

After removing the broken closet flange in my Oliver I can say that nothing in my response below pertains in any way to the Oliver closet flange and toilet installation.

I have replaced a few toilet flanges in wood and concrete floors and this is the replacement flange I prefer.

https://www.danco.com/product/hydroseat-flange-repair/  
 

I have removed broken PVC flanges but not ABS.  I doubt there is much difference.  First thing I do is to stuff a rag into the pipe with a string or small rope attached to prevent debris from falling into the tank.  Then I use a Dremel tool to cut the top part of the flange off and then use a small hacksaw to cut the inside of the flange in about 20 places so the pieces I am trying to break off are much smaller, requiring less force to remove.  I think the black tank is pretty strong but I haven’t beat on one with a hammer so I real don’t know.  I think breaking the tank riser would be catastrophic.

Or you could just put in a composting toilet.

Mossey

Mike and Krunch   Lutz, FL  
2017 LEII #193 “the dog house”

 

 

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You still use a wax ring to seal around the rubber funnel and below the blue flange.  It’s doesn’t require glue.  And I find that it reduces wax ring blowout do to plunging.  
 

Did you remove the flange when you removed your black tank?  Are the mechanical fasteners nuts and bolts or pan head screws?

Mossey

Mike and Krunch   Lutz, FL  
2017 LEII #193 “the dog house”

 

 

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34 minutes ago, mossemi said:

You still use a wax ring to seal around the rubber funnel and below the blue flange.  It’s doesn’t require glue.  And I find that it reduces wax ring blowout do to plunging.  
 

Did you remove the flange when you removed your black tank?  Are the mechanical fasteners nuts and bolts or pan head screws?

Mossey

None of that was there. Just a hole in the fiberglass. I don’t even think the black tank had a hole cut. 

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Overland, thanks!

Dean, no I am not sure it would fit.  I have never had my toilet out, but they are pretty standard.  But you have the toilet out and you could measure from a straight edge across the bottom to the toilets flange and compare to another RV toilet.
Have you removed any of the flange mounting screws or bolts?

Mike and Krunch   Lutz, FL  
2017 LEII #193 “the dog house”

 

 

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7 hours ago, mossemi said:

Overland, thanks!

Dean, no I am not sure it would fit.  I have never had my toilet out, but they are pretty standard.  But you have the toilet out and you could measure from a straight edge across the bottom to the toilets flange and compare to a none RV toilet.
Have you removed any of the flange mounting screws or bolts?
 

 

Dometic 310 Floor flange spec: “3 in ./76 mm ID, 1/4-7/16 in . (6-11 mm) thick” ( which is the average thickness of a toilet floor flange).  So you are probably correct.  Note the flange shown is not the correct size and shown for flange thickness example.

 

The Oatey 43508 flange is .45” at the 7/16 limit.

 

image.jpeg.621e5e5102c74b400a9a97e038b4bd8b.jpeg

Edited by Dean
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Hi everyone,

I had the same thing happen to my floor flange about a year ago. My Ollie is a 2015 #103.

The flange cracked and the toilet also moved around.  This allowed vapors to seep past the flange gasket.  It was not pleasant. 

I remove the toilet and flange screws, but was having difficulty getting the flange out of the tank.  I didn't want to crack or damage the tank.  I thought that the flange my be GLUED to the tank. I spoke with Jason and he made it easy to understand.  Jason told me that the flange is glued to a short (approx. 6") piece of pipe.  The pipe and flange is NOT glued into the tank, it is only pressed into a rubber bushing at the top of the tank.  You should be able to remove the flange after removing the screws.  Some parts of the flange might crumble, because it is not easy to get the pipe out of the tank.

The tank is more like a rubber bladder than a ridged tank.  It was difficult to get the new pipe (with the flange glue to it) into the tank.  Again, Jason advised me to use liquid dish washing soap to lubricate the tail piece attached to the flange.  After using the soap, the pipe was much easier to insert into the tank.

You can use ABS or PVC for the repair.  The ABS is black and harder to find.  You will the flange and a short piece of pipe also.

Good Luck!

Shirley

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Shirley Arrighi

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My local Lowe's has 3" pipe in stock. A few fittings.  Most has to be ordered. But, quick ship to store.

My local depot has pretty much nothing in stock.

It probably is a regional thing.

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2008 Ram 1500 4 × 4

2008 Oliver Elite, Hull #12

Florida and Western North Carolina, or wherever the truck goes....

400 watts solar. DC compressor fridge. No inverter. 2 x 105 ah agm batteries .  Life is good.


        
 

 

 

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  That I don’t know and won’t have the answer until I need some.😅  That being said, in the new Covid world, I am doing more online shopping than ever.  I usual start with Amazon, but I have learned that at times and for certain products there are better prices and service elsewhere.  So I have used HD more often recently for online orders and since they are 4 miles away, I have ordered items shipped to the store for pickup.  And Lowe’s is 6 miles away.

And once again, Sherry is faster than I am.👍👍 

Mossey

 

Mike and Krunch   Lutz, FL  
2017 LEII #193 “the dog house”

 

 

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Lowe's is our fave, as they've  extended the military discount, and at a choice of local Lowe's and Depot, we find more "knowledgeable " folks at Lowe's.  Not saying they know what to do with anything,  they just seem to know if they have it, and where it is... ours are only one intersection apart. Lowe's requires a uturn, but, that's ok. 

And, I  have an easier time there finding lumber that's not a banana. And, finding someone to take down a new bunker if all left in the pile is banana rejects.

Sherry

Edited by SeaDawg

2008 Ram 1500 4 × 4

2008 Oliver Elite, Hull #12

Florida and Western North Carolina, or wherever the truck goes....

400 watts solar. DC compressor fridge. No inverter. 2 x 105 ah agm batteries .  Life is good.


        
 

 

 

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By the way, you will NOT need a coupling to attach the flange to the short pipe.  The flange has a short stub that inserts into the pipe.  You WILL need the proper glue to attach the pipe to the flange/stub.

Shirley

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Shirley Arrighi

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