Galway Girl Posted March 29, 2021 Share Posted March 29, 2021 (edited) I'm starting a Lithium upgrade on a 2019 Elite II Hull 505 - I've reviewed many other posts and projects (thanks for your postings) and decided to start this one to document my project to install new Lithionics batteries. Comments from those of you with experience very welcome: Overview: Lithium Upgrade Project: Reason I'm upgrading: My 4 AGM's finally died this spring. I've got some time now to do this project now before a 9 month road trip later this year. There are three ways that batteries get charged in hull 505: 1) From Alternator/7PIN 2) From AC Shore Power 3) From Solar: 1) Alternator or DC/DC CHARGING: Our Oliver's batteries get charged through the 7 pin connector while driving. This is considered Alternator Charging or DC/DC charging. For Lead Acid Chemistry this charging method works fine as the amount of current drawn by AGM's or WET Lead Acid's is relatively low because they have higher internal resistance. Many of you know that you can't rely on that 7 pin connection to fully re-charge your batteries but they can keep them from declining. Hull 505 was built with a 20A breaker in this 7 Pin line to protect the wiring and Tow Vehicle alternator. For Lithium batteries with very low internal impedance this current draw can be many time higher, and result in overloading the tow vehicle alternator or cause wiring overloads. To make charging more consistent and protect the alternator a DC/DC charger is the preferred choice for LI batteries. My Plan: I will be adding a Victron DC/DC 30A Charger on board the Oliver. Installation Research and feedback from Oliver Service says that I need to: Carefully inspect the existing 7 pin wiring and do load calculations. Worst case I'll be running a new pair of dedicated 6 AWB charging wires from engine bay of Truck all the way back to the DC/DC charger. Figure out my location to mount for the Victron DC/DC charger. Must be near the batteries and have some cooling space and dissipation plate under the charger. Run new 6AWG wires from my Truck Engine Bay all the way back to an Anderson Connector on the Rear Bumper of my truck. On the Oliver, run 6AWG wires back into the same bay as the DC/DC charger. 2) AC Shore Power Charging - Upgrade to Xantrex XC 2000 Pro Inverter/Charger - provides 100A Battery Charging In my specific hull 505 I have a Progressive Dynamics 4000 load center. This houses the AC Breakers, DC Fuses and a converter section for battery charging. In my PD4000 there is a PD 4065 Converter section (65A) with Lithium Jumper for Battery Charging. In normal operation that charger is set to WIZ (or Lead Acid) position and it follows a profile that's perfect for lead acid batteries and AGM's. If I move the switch (or jumper) to the LI position, it now has a constant output at 14.6V which is OK for Lithium but not optimum for the Lithionics batteries. Lithionics prefers that I use another charger with a programmable LI profile. My Plan: I'm upgrading my current PD converter charger and separate Prosine 2000W inverter to an integrate Xantrex XC2000 Pro Charger/Inverter. Note: I don't plan on running my AC off the batteries so the 2000W inverter is plenty for my needs. In the Platinum Package Oliver installs the XC3000. Installation Research and feedback from Oliver Service says that I need to Disconnect the existing PD4065 converter charging leads that go to the batteries and tape them up. Leave the charger block in the PD4000 load center cage - just in case I need to downgrade later back to AGM's. Remove the existing 2000W Inverter and Auto Transfer switch. (The load and AC wires go back into the new XC2000 along with the 4/0 B+ and GND leads) Mounting issue: I'll need to figure out how to attach the new inverter to the same spot under the street side bed. 3) Solar Charging - No Change at this time In my Hull 505, I have a Zamp 30A PWM Solar Controller. This controller isn't as efficient as an MPPT controller, but it is already installed and works. In keeping this first install simple, I'm leaving that in place. My Plan: I'll be leaving Zamp 30A Charger in place for now, and will upgrade to a higher power MPPT controller in the future along with more solar panels. Installation Research and feedback from Lithionics says that I need to: Install a breaker on the solar + line so I can Isolate from batteries. 4) Decluttering the battery box - It looks like many of you have moved all the loads and negatives to common bus bars as a way to declutter the battery box area. I want to do the same...I've read the posts so far but wonder what's been the most difficult part of those change overs? I plan to wire in a cutoff switche for the main B+ power (Big Red Knob) and a breaker for the Solar Inputs so I can cut all power for winter LI battery storage. Comments welcome before I get to the start line. Craig Hull 505 Edited March 30, 2021 by Galway Girl Updated Diagram 1 4 2019 Elite II (Hull 505 - Galway Girl - August 7, 2019 Delivery) Tow Vehicle: 2021 F350 King Ranch, FX4, MaxTow Package, 10 Speed, 3.55 Rear Axle Batteries Upgrade: Dual 315GTX Lithionics Lithiums - 630AH Total Inverter/Charger: Xantrex 2000Pro BLOG: https://4-ever-hitched.com Amazon Oliver Outfitters Guide: https://amzn.to/2mAAgPO Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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