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Greasing Dexter EZ flex suspension.


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I have just noticed some suspension creaking noise.  My last suspension was at Oliver last September and have certainly traveled over 3000 miles since then so it is time to buy a grease gun and figure out what to do.  You Tube to the rescue.

 

 

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As I'm guessing that Ken has found out by now - this is not a "hard" job as long as you have the right tools.  Zerks (the things that you attach the grease gun hose to) can get plugged making it all but impossible to get any grease flowing.  The grease gun can be difficult to attach and remove from those zerks.  The entire job can be a bit messy given that you are dealing with grease and crawling around under the Ollie.  But, the job doesn't really take that long to do and it creates a good number of points for your "man" card.

Bill   👷‍♀️

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3 hours ago, topgun2 said:

As I'm guessing that Ken has found out by now - this is not a "hard" job as long as you have the right tools.  Zerks (the things that you attach the grease gun hose to) can get plugged making it all but impossible to get any grease flowing.  The grease gun can be difficult to attach and remove from those zerks.  The entire job can be a bit messy given that you are dealing with grease and crawling around under the Ollie.  But, the job doesn't really take that long to do and it creates a good number of points for your "man" card.

Bill   👷‍♀️

I have found the God send of all greese guns.  Dewalt 18v cordless  greese gun.  I hated all greese guns,  clumsy need three hands hold the gun, pump it and try to hold the end on the fitting.  The cordless is great chuck snaps on pull the trigger Done.  Shocking price for one,  but what isn’t these days. Well worth the price after one use.

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Can't find number of zerks on a single axle trailer in any manual.  Found that there was no grease in fittings at delivery. Or they dried out completely, no grease, in short time

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The first time doing any job is usually a learning experience as simple as it might seem.  Well the first thing I learned is that the grease gun is not like a caulking gun.  The plunger needs to be pushed all the way in.  Mine would not go in and back to you tube for the answer which was to wiggle it a little with the cylinder unscrewed a bit.  Next, the LocknLube came with a great tip which locked on the zerk allowing up to 10,000 psi of force.  Unfortunately, I could only reach one zerk because the tip was so long the tires were in the way of the rest.  Since I was doing this at the storage lot not close to any autoparts store I proceeded to remove the wheels and finish the job.  When I got home I ordered a 90 degree tip from Amazon. The suspension creaking that alerted me to the problem was solved.

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44 minutes ago, Ken_Judy said:

The first time doing any job is usually a learning experience as simple as it might seem.  Well the first thing I learned is that the grease gun is not like a caulking gun.  The plunger needs to be pushed all the way in.  Mine would not go in and back to you tube for the answer which was to wiggle it a little with the cylinder unscrewed a bit.  Next, the LocknLube came with a great tip which locked on the zerk allowing up to 10,000 psi of force.  Unfortunately, I could only reach one zerk because the tip was so long the tires were in the way of the rest.  Since I was doing this at the storage lot not close to any autoparts store I proceeded to remove the wheels and finish the job.  When I got home I ordered a 90 degree tip from Amazon. The suspension creaking that alerted me to the problem was solved.

Care to post a link to the 90 degree tip on Amazon? Thank you in advance!

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Speaking of plugged zerks I have one. Looks like it screws out. Are replacements standard that I can find at auto parts or farm supply? Once removed would it be a good idea to clean any gunk behind it? Best way to do that?

 

PS I found a 90 degree tip and it made the job much easier. 

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On 5/6/2021 at 9:04 AM, ThomB87 said:

Speaking of plugged zerks I have one. Looks like it screws out. Are replacements standard that I can find at auto parts or farm supply? Once removed would it be a good idea to clean any gunk behind it? Best way to do that?

Since these zerks come in a number of sizes, I've always simply taken out the old one and used it to make sure that I either got the right replacement from the workshop or from the local NAPA dealer (I'm sure that Tractor Supply and others will have them too).

Yes, they simply screw out.  Other than a general surface cleaning to make sure the threads don't have a bunch of dirt in them I've never gone on a deep dive for cleaning - the new grease should take care of that.

Before you throw out that old zerk - give the little ball in the end a light tap with a drift or nail set tool to see if you can get it un-stuck.  Perhaps a little brake cleaner or "Liquid Wrench" (after you have taken it out) will loosen it up too.  If that works, then you have a spare for the next time.

Finally, look at the one you are replacing and think about if an angled zerk would make the job easier.  These angled zerks are about the same price as the standard straight ones.

Bill

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4 hours ago, topgun2 said:

(I'm sure that Tractor Supply and others will have them too).

Finally, look at the one you are replacing and think about if an angled zerk would make the job easier.  These angled zerks are about the same price as the standard straight ones.

Bill

Tractor Supply zerk shopping tip:  Zerks are packaged in smaller quantities and are more expensive per piece in the tractor parts section at Tractor Supply.  Zerks in the Hardware or Autos section of the same store have more per package and cost less per piece.  Probably a made in USA vs made elsewhere issue.  Quality may or may not follow price.  I replaced most of my straight ones with angled zerks.  Much better for avoiding contortions under the trailer.

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Simple -

Re-review the video at the top of this thread.  As I recall, there are eight zerks per side for a total of 16.  12 of the 16 are easily seen but the others at the top where the Dexter attach to the frame can be a bit more difficult to see.

Wipe off the zerk, attach you grease gun, pump grease until you see new grease coming out from around the bolt, remove grease gun, clean up mess and excess grease from around the Dexter and zerk.  If you have them attach a zerk cap to help keep the zerk clean.  Complete the first side, have an adult beverage and then complete the other side and call it a day.😃

Bill

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On 5/7/2021 at 6:10 AM, topgun2 said:

Simple -

Re-review the video at the top of this thread.  As I recall, there are seven zerks per side for a total of 14.  12 of the 14 are easily seen but the two right at the top where the Dexter attach to the frame can be a bit more difficult to see.

Wipe off the zerk, attach you grease gun, pump grease until you see new grease coming out from around the bolt, remove grease gun, clean up mess and excess grease from around the Dexter and zerk.  If you have them attach a zerk cap to help keep the zerk clean.  Complete the first side, have an adult beverage and then complete the other side and call it a day.😃

Bill

Thanks Bill and all.  I did it yesterday and it was super simple.  Different from the video at the top in that the zerk were on the outside vs facing inside (which seems like it might have been much simpler).  I had 8 per side -- 2 on the top of where the Dexter attaches.  Those were angled zerks, so they were pretty easy too.   I did pull the wheels off for ease of getting to the zerks.  Now that I know what I'm doing, I may try it without removing the wheels next time.  All told, probably a half hour and next time it'll be quicker - unless I forget everything I learned this time (and that's as likely as not to be the case).

Since I took the wheels off, I didn't need the angled grease gun tip, but next time when I try it with wheels on, I can see how the angled tip will help.

  

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Once in a long while, with the trailer on the ground, you might encounter a zerk that is reluctant to accept any grease. One thing you can try, take the weight off the suspension by raising up the trailer part way to “unload” it (this also happens when you remove the wheels and let the axles droop) - all the bushings will shift a little away from the bolts and maybe hopefully unblock the little grease hole in that bushing. Drilled “wet bolts” should be installed into their mounts with the inside cross hole(s) horizontal, but almost nobody pays attention to this. If the bolt has only one hole it could get blocked, if it has two holes opposite each other, the other will always be open. Engineers do not expect suspension to be lubed while on the ground, rather when it is up on mechanic’s lift….. I sure wish I had one of those. I spent may years lubing aircraft landing gear while they were up in the air. It sure is easier that way.

It has been a couple of decades since I looked at a Dexter wet bolt, do they have one hole or two?

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I am going to guess the Dexter wet bolt has one hole. I have had several occasions that a zerk would not take grease. The issue was easily resolved by raising the offending side of trailer a little with stabilizer jack. 

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8 hours ago, John E Davies said:

 

It has been a couple of decades since I looked at a Dexter wet bolt, do they have one hole or two?

John Davies

Spokane WA

 

John,

Have a pin sitting on my desk. It only has one hole for grease for the bronze bushing. During EZ flex kit installation, followed Dexter instructions for direction to point pin's grease hole,  but still need to take a little weight off of one of the pins for it to take grease. Looks like a 1/8" hole.

https://www.dexteraxle.com/user_area/content_media/raw/059-A45-00E-ZFlexInstructionSheet.pdf

 

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1 hour ago, rideandfly said:

Have a pin sitting on my desk. It only has one hole for grease for the bronze bushing.

I've always wanted one of those just sitting on my desk just in the event someone were to ask ....😇

In any case - I'm glad it was you and thanks for both the pic and the instillation manual.

Bill 

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Yep, always keep something on my desk to pick up and look at while on hold, ect. 

Job I retired from was a rebuild/manufacturing industrial machine shop in a rough neighborhood with a roof surface area of about  350,000 square feet.  Had a pint jar about 1/2 full of 45 and 9mm slugs the roofers would pull out of the roof sitting my desk. Evidently folks would shoot their guns up in the air at night with our roof area being so large it would catch many falling slugs puncturing the roof starting leaks.

The jar of slugs was a good conversation starter! 😬

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Just finished greasing all (16) zerks on the EZ flex. And recorded the mileage 3472 on our maintenance spread sheet. 

A special thanks to rideandfly for a few very valuable pointers! 

Thank you Bill!

- David 

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1 hour ago, rideandfly said:

David,

You're welcome!

Will let you know when I'm going to repack Ollie's bearings & replace seals, good to have in the Info Tool Kit!

 

Many thanks Bill!
Always open to learning! 
Thank you,

David 

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UPDATE:

After completing what must be the 4th pass through at greasing the chassis I learned a few things:

1. The 90 degree coupler is worth the cost - really helps - esp with the wheels not removed, even with the wheels removed, You can actually do a good job with just the rear removed. Got all 9 on each side..............

2. Taking weight off the assembly (wheels off) seems to allow for better grease penatration. As a little more grease oozes out once its back to normal.

3. My brakes look great - didn't measure them but to the untrained eye - maybe 3/4 life left - lets say 1/2 for safety sake.  18K miles.

When we return - it will bearing repack time - will really take a close look at the stoppers at that point. 

Don't forget to at minimum to visually check the bolts/nuts/connections down and around there. I put a wrench on them last time - all were good.

And did I mention - for some reason - this is harder than it once was - can't figure out why though.....

RB

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On 5/9/2021 at 8:20 AM, John E Davies said:

take the weight off the suspension by raising up the trailer part way to “unload” it (this also happens when you remove the wheels and let the axles droop) - all the bushings will shift a little away from the bolts and maybe hopefully unblock the little grease hole in that bushing

I really wish I would have read this forum post before trying to do this…

I ended up trying to replace a couple of the zirk fittings because they wouldn’t take the grease when screwed in, but would when by themselves. 

I even bought a device to “unstick” zirks. 

All I needed to do was jack up that part of the trailer…

well, you win some, you lose some


 

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I guess I’m slightly upset with the Oliver service department though. I called them last week about this issue and they suggested I remove a fitting and fiddle around with a toothpick or wire in the hole. 
 

They never suggested I lift the actual Oliver with a jack!

 

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