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I'm getting irritated...


csevel

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Btw, the older coleman cub was more quiet than today's dometic. Also, much smaller for smaller trailers.

If you mostly camp at elevation/cool temps/ boondock,  I'd let it go til more of the European and Australian units become readily available. 

We recently replaced our dometic with a houghton 9500 btu, mostly to make space on the roof for our solar panels.  Since we run the ac only once or twice a year, to check it out, noise is irrelevant to us . But, I am not dismissing the issue.  Most  usa rv ac systems are really noisy. 

Fortunately for us, we've only used rv ac a few times, camping.

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2008 Ram 1500 4 × 4

2008 Oliver Elite, Hull #12

Florida and Western North Carolina, or wherever the truck goes....

400 watts solar. DC compressor fridge. No inverter. 2 x 105 ah agm batteries .  Life is good.


        
 

 

 

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4 hours ago, csevel said:

I'm not sure I'll be able to get it out in one piece.  There's no going back now!  I've already removed the sealant on 70% of it.

It took me about 8 hours to remove the previous sealant and sign. Guess I was lucky being able to remove the sign without damage to the sign and re-use it. Used several layers of micro fiber cloth under the modified wood paint stir stick tool to help lift the sign preventing surrounding fiberglass damage. Did not see any signs of epoxy under the sign on our 2015 LE2, but the sealant used to install the sign was very tough to remove.

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LE2

 

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What a PITA wet bedding during a boondock trip can be!  This past week, I also encountered what appears to be the same problem as yours.    

With the help of my daughter (Allison), we were able quickly fix our two leakers without spending a dime.  The first one took us an hour to figure it out.  The fix took ten seconds.  The second window had the same issue, and also took another ten seconds to also fix.  Not saying it may be the same as your problem, but it is darn sure worth a 30 second look see!

In the below picture you will note the +/- 2 ½” gap in the operable window bottom track & water diverter (TWD).  The TWD is a black track that extends under both the operable and fixed windows.  It is about ½” wide, and has holes drilled through the material for water passage and seals against the sides of the aluminum window frame.  This seal conveys water that has gotten past the flanks of the operable window, and ports the water down to the window weeps.  An important function of this black thing is to distribute water flowing from the operable window side of the track to the weeps of that the sealed window weeps. 

As the picture shows, this section of the TWD has slid forward, allowing all the water to flow to only the weeps of the operable widow.

Use a pair of needle nose plyers, or a similar sized tool, and push the TWD back to the rear to meet the section from the back window edge.  Then close the window and spray water onto the side of the trailer and observe if your flooding issue has been corrected.   

OLIVER ELITE II With Rear Curb Side Storage Compartment Access.pdf

TV:  2019 F-150 SuperCrew Lariat, 3.5L EcoBoost, Max Tow, FX-4, Rear Locker      OLLIE:  2018 OE2 Hull 342, Twin Bed.    OLLIE DYI’s:  BB LiFePO4's, Victron 712 Smart, 350 Amp Master Switch, Houghton 3400, Victron Orion DC - DC, 3000-Watt Renogy Inverter, P.D. 60-amp Converter, Frig Dual Exhaust Fans, Kitchen Drawer Straps.    TV DYI’s:  2 5/16" Anderson System, Timken Bearings, Nitto recon’s, Firestone Rear Air Bags, Bilstein 5100’s, Mud Flaps & Weather Tech all.

  image.jpeg.9633acdfb75740f0fd358e1a5118f105.jpeg

 

 

 

 

 

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On 5/29/2021 at 11:51 PM, ScubaRx said:

Here is a photo I took nearly seven years ago during my quest to find a solution. Feel free to duplicate if you deem it helpful.

Tali-000 - Img_1668.jpg

 

I appreciate the ingenuity on display here, but I wonder if just caulking around the interior window frame wouldn't send the water into the basement rather than the bed?  The bed wetting provides a good indicator that it's time to caulk the light; but water in the basement is easier to live with.  

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On 6/4/2021 at 3:02 PM, Overland said:

I appreciate the ingenuity on display here, but I wonder if just caulking around the interior window frame wouldn't send the water into the basement rather than the bed?  The bed wetting provides a good indicator that it's time to caulk the light; but water in the basement is easier to live with.  

We were 40 miles into the Arkansas back country down a gravel road and it was pouring down rain. Even if we'd had the proper caulk with us at the time, everything was too wet to fool with it.

The photo was actually part of a video we shot claiming that this was the "...new, optional Oliver rainwater collection system. With enough rain it can supply all your freshwater needs..."

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Steve, Tali and our dog Rocky plus our beloved Storm, Maggie, Lucy and Reacher (all waiting at the Rainbow Bridge)

2008 Legacy Elite I - Outlaw Oliver, Hull #026 | 2014 Legacy Elite II - Outlaw Oliver, Hull #050 | 2022 Silverado High Country 3500HD SRW Diesel 4x4 

 

             801469912_StatesVisitedTaliandSteve08-23-2021-I.jpg.26814499292ab76ee55b889b69ad3ef0.jpg1226003278_StatesVisitedTaliandSteve08-23-2021-H.jpg.dc46129cb4967a7fd2531b16699e9e45.jpg

 

 

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30 minutes ago, ScubaRx said:

The photo was actually part of a video we shot claiming that this was the "...new, optional Oliver rainwater collection system. With enough rain it can supply all your freshwater needs..."

Actually,  lots of sailors set up tarps to capture rainwater as freshwater. 

Very ingenious.  😁

2008 Ram 1500 4 × 4

2008 Oliver Elite, Hull #12

Florida and Western North Carolina, or wherever the truck goes....

400 watts solar. DC compressor fridge. No inverter. 2 x 105 ah agm batteries .  Life is good.


        
 

 

 

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10 minutes ago, Overland said:

If I find myself lost at sea in my Ollie, I’ll assume everything is well caulked. 

We collect rainwater, from our metal roof, at home. Don't think I'd want to collect drinking water from the interstitial space of Oliver hulls. Imo

2008 Ram 1500 4 × 4

2008 Oliver Elite, Hull #12

Florida and Western North Carolina, or wherever the truck goes....

400 watts solar. DC compressor fridge. No inverter. 2 x 105 ah agm batteries .  Life is good.


        
 

 

 

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On 5/30/2021 at 11:12 AM, GAP said:

I feel Csevel's pain for sure.  While I have not had a leak to deal with, my 2021 E2 has been keeping me busy since picking it up last December.  Off the top of my head the issues I've dealt with includes:  1) tank sensor fell off fresh water tank, 2) malfunctioning heat pad for lithium batteries (still to be replaced), 3) Xantrex was set to AGM batteries instead of the lithium package I had causing multiple issues 4) radio/tv anteana was not attached to mast correctly so fell off while driving, 5) leaky pex connectors under curb side bed - connections were way too loose 6) exterior LP leak (still to be tracked down), 7) Xantrex remote ongoing panel warning 20 issue, 😎 no pressure in the water pressure tank, 9) super loud and clanky air conditioner - loose bolt found just below the impeller, 10) fridge could not get cold enough to function - sensor placed in wrong position, 11) faulty board in Maxair fan, 12) loose nuts attaching solar panels.  I'm fairly sure I've forgotten a couple more.

This is my first trailer and I appreciate that complex systems in bouncy conditions (trucks, trailers, boats, space station, etc...) are prone to shake related malfunctions but most of the problems I've had seem to be of other sources.  Upside is I'm learning the systems in combat conditions.  Downside is, I'd rather be camping.  Question to you more seasoned Oliver-ites:  Does this seem like an excessive list for a trailer that is just 6 months old?

However you cut it, this stuff is a pain in the ass but has not yet cut a trip short or forced us to loose the camper to a service center.  We love having our Oliver but wish it would be less of a ongoing maintenance issue.

We also had the inverter remote panel "20" error.  Xantrex determined it to be a bad communication board, after troubleshooting and attempting to install a firmware update did not resolve the issue.  While the inverter was still functional, the batteries were still charging, but to use the inverter, we had to get under the street side twin bed to turn the inverter on and off, or to check function.

Xantrex wanted us to return the defective inverter to them for repair, which meant at least a two week turnaround and down time, since we would be powerless, unless we recharged the batteries manually.  Oliver deemed this solution unacceptable, since we should not have to lose the use of our Oliver for that length of time.  After attempting to get a replacement sent to us from Xantrex, Oliver simply sent us a new inverter from their stock and assisted in the swap.

Kudos to Jason, the service crew, and Oliver for stepping in and keeping us "on the road"

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Ray and Susan Huff

Elite II Twin "Pearl" - Hull#699; delivered December 7, 2020

2013 F350 6.7l diesel Super Duty 4x4 long bed crew cab

1UP-USA Heavy-duty bike rack

2017 Leisure Travel Van Unity Twin Bed (sold)

AZARCAIDNVNMOKORTNTXUTWAsm.jpg

 

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1 hour ago, Ray and Susan Huff said:

Kudos to Jason, the service crew, and Oliver for stepping in and keeping us "on the road"

I'd say so!

 

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2008 Ram 1500 4 × 4

2008 Oliver Elite, Hull #12

Florida and Western North Carolina, or wherever the truck goes....

400 watts solar. DC compressor fridge. No inverter. 2 x 105 ah agm batteries .  Life is good.


        
 

 

 

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Once again this type of service from Oliver proves to me that while these people are not perfect - they are one heck of a distance ahead of whatever is in second place.

I simply find it very difficult to talk to non-Oliver owners about this kind of service since I and the people I have spoken to about it have nothing to compare it to for any product at any time.

Bill

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2023 Ford F150 Lariat 3.5EB FX4 Max Towing, Max Payload, 2016 Oliver Elite II - Hull #117 "Twist"

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22 hours ago, Overland said:

If I find myself lost at sea in my Ollie, I’ll assume everything is well caulked. 

One of our favorite campsites at Hunting Island SP SC barrier island, was lost during a recent hurricane.

When it was full moon and high tide, sometimes a little bit of the surf would make it to the trailer's tires. Always had thoughts of waking up "lost at sea". 😬

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23 hours ago, Ray and Susan Huff said:

We also had the inverter remote panel "20" error.  Xantrex determined it to be a bad communication board, after troubleshooting and attempting to install a firmware update did not resolve the issue.  While the inverter was still functional, the batteries were still charging, but to use the inverter, we had to get under the street side twin bed to turn the inverter on and off, or to check function.

Xantrex wanted us to return the defective inverter to them for repair, which meant at least a two week turnaround and down time, since we would be powerless, unless we recharged the batteries manually.  Oliver deemed this solution unacceptable, since we should not have to lose the use of our Oliver for that length of time.  After attempting to get a replacement sent to us from Xantrex, Oliver simply sent us a new inverter from their stock and assisted in the swap.

Kudos to Jason, the service crew, and Oliver for stepping in and keeping us "on the road"

Story with a happy ending so that's great.  In our case, a tech from Xantrex walked us through the analysis of the inverter itself and the remote panel.  While our trailer was brandy new in December, both the inverter and panel were a couple of updates behind.  The tech emailed firmware and instructions.  Took another call for some handholding but all is good.  We are three days into a trip and with no problems.

It too some time resolving the Xantrex issues but Jason stuck with us and shared a few great ideas and insights along the way.  The folks at Xantrex were also super helpful.  They helped me figure out how to reset my charge rate to reflect source.  I had been having problems when using the inverter on sources other than 30a service including household 20a and my 2000i  generator.  The Xantrex tech talked my through how to adjust the inverter demand depending on available amperage at the source so 15a for 15a household circuit, 20a for 20a circuit, 18a for little generator, 30a at campgrounds....  They also assisted in setting up specific to lithium batteries: New bulk and float charge rates and an auto cut off at 10% battery vs 50% for AGM.  These units ship with factory presets that assume certain conditions (plugging into a 30a circuit and using AGM batteries) so it is worthwhile to figure out how to tweak to reflect how it is actually to be used.

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SOLD:  2021 Elite 2, Twin Bed, Lithium & Solar, 3000W Inverter

SOLD:  2022 Ford F150, 3.5L V6 EcoBoost, 4x4 Supercab, Trailer Tow Package

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5 hours ago, GAP said:

They also assisted in setting up specific to lithium batteries: New bulk and float charge rates and an auto cut off at 10% battery vs 50% for AGM.  These units ship with factory presets that assume certain conditions (plugging into a 30a circuit and using AGM batteries) so it is worthwhile to figure out how to tweak to reflect how it is actually to be used.

Jason helped with the settings for the inverter: battery type - Lithium.  When lithium battery type is set, charger current reset to 150a.  LifeBlue recommended 120, so Jason said to follow their recommendation.  Also, when lithium battery type is set, the AC input breaker setting #28 changed from 30a to 50a.  We changed it back to 30a.

Our replacement inverter came set at defaults for flooded battery, not AGM.  The settings Jason had me change were #20 Battery type (changed from flooded to lithium) #24 - charger current (changed from 80a DC to 120a as per LifeBlue recommendation).  He also said:

 "#28 can be changed as needed based on the power supply you connect to. For example if you connect to a small generator or a regular house receptacle you can lower that to 15a so the inverter knows how much incoming power it has to deal with. This will help with its feature to manage the incoming power accordingly."  This agrees with what you say about adjusting the setting to reflect the power source.  How did you arrive at 18a for small generator?

I'm curious about what Xantrex had you do to set up specific lithium battery settings in regards to bulk and float charge rates and an auto cut-off at X% battery.   When I scroll through the settings, #21 (battery temperature), #22 (custom absorption voltage), and #23 (custom float voltage) are not available.  And, is the auto cut-off setting #02 (LBO) which is designated in volts DC rather than % of  battery.

  Can you explain what you had to do to find/change these settings and what values you used?  LifeBlue recommendations low voltage disconnect of 11v (seems high, to me) with discharge cut off voltage of 2.0 volts, any cell (8 volts).  They also recommend an absorption voltage of 14.1 to 14.6v and float 13.6 to 13.8v.  These numbers are from the Xantrex XC Pro inverter settings sent to me by Jason and as found on the Oliver Knowledge Base/Oliver Travel Trailers Service/Electrical Systems page here and the LifeBlue Battery Specs sheet: 

LifeBlue_LB12200HC_Battery_Specs.pdf

Thanks for sharing.

 

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Ray and Susan Huff

Elite II Twin "Pearl" - Hull#699; delivered December 7, 2020

2013 F350 6.7l diesel Super Duty 4x4 long bed crew cab

1UP-USA Heavy-duty bike rack

2017 Leisure Travel Van Unity Twin Bed (sold)

AZARCAIDNVNMOKORTNTXUTWAsm.jpg

 

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