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HOW TO: Replace the Propane/ CO detector with a "gas only" one AND a digital CO detector


John E Davies

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My original combination detector was getting close to retirement (72 months). It is a really expensive unit ($90 to $160 online) and a little hard to find in stock.

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I bought these units:

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The propane detector has to go near the floor, because the gas is heavier than air. Here is the Oliver installed one:

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Size comparison:

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The difference in thickness and weight is enormous, too bad Oliver doesn't use these from the start.

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The RV Safe unit comes with two big bezels, to cover up the big ugly hole when you remove an older unit. The small one worked fine here, positioned vertically. This position makes it easier to read the label when crouched down under the table:

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It uses the same amount of power as the old one, about 50 milliamps. The big difference is size and (if surface mounting) the need to only drill a 1/4" hole for the wires to pass through. My detector has a power switch:

https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/5330-how-to-propane-co-detector-on-off-power-switch/

John Davies

Spokane WA

 

 

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SOLD 07/23 "Mouse":  2017 Legacy Elite II Two Beds, Hull Number 218, See my HOW TO threads: https://olivertraveltrailers.com/topic/john-e-davies-how-to-threads-and-tech-articles-links/

Tow Vehicle: 2013 Land Cruiser 200, 32” LT tires, airbags, Safari snorkel, Maggiolina Grand Tour 360 Carbon RTT.

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I really like the Kidde unit, I have one in my garage and one in my house next to the thermostat. The big deal about it is that it records the concentration level history, and you can push the button to see the peak level and erase it. A dumb detector is just YES or NO, which tells you nothing at all until it alarms. Anything up to 50 ppm on the Kidde can be ignored. 50 to 100 is getting hazardous, you should investigate. My garage unit peaks at 55-60 when I run a car engine nearby, that doesn't worry me any. Repeated high levels might mean the furnace or water heater is acting up.

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I screwed it to the wall next to the thermostat, for easy visibility. 

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FYI, Ollies come with two detectors, a Smoke/ CO unit in back, and a Propane/ CO detector near the galley floor.

John Davies

Spokane WA

 

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SOLD 07/23 "Mouse":  2017 Legacy Elite II Two Beds, Hull Number 218, See my HOW TO threads: https://olivertraveltrailers.com/topic/john-e-davies-how-to-threads-and-tech-articles-links/

Tow Vehicle: 2013 Land Cruiser 200, 32” LT tires, airbags, Safari snorkel, Maggiolina Grand Tour 360 Carbon RTT.

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A nice solution, and the original combo detector mounted by the floor doesn’t make a lot of sense since the recommended locations for CO vs. propane are different.   A CO detector should be mounted higher, while a propane detector should be close to the floor.   Thankfully Oliver installs the other smoke/CO detector up high back by the beds.  

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My questions are -- Is the Kidde detector rated to be in a RV that obviously moves over the road and gets a lot of vibration?

Why did Oliver use the one they provide as opposed to a inexpensive easily procured Kidde unit?

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2018 Oliver Elite II, Twin Bed, Hull #354 

2024 RAM 1500, 4 x 4; Gas. 5.7L V8 Hemi MDS VVT Torque; 3.21 rear axle ratio

Maine 

 

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I've read that rv designated units use a more sensitive reading than home units, as, at home,  you have much more dispersement space available. ( my bedroom  closet is bigger than my Ollie, honestly)

I would not personally depend solely on a home battery unit for co detection, but that's not John's suggestion either, as I read it. I think it is his 3rd backup.

 

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2008 Ram 1500 4 × 4

2008 Oliver Elite, Hull #12

Florida and Western North Carolina, or wherever the truck goes....

400 watts solar. DC compressor fridge. No inverter. 2 x 105 ah agm batteries .  Life is good.


        
 

 

 

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36 minutes ago, SeaDawg said:

I've read that rv designated units use a more sensitive reading than home units, where you have much more dispersement space available. ( my bedroom  closet is bigger than my Ollie, honestly)

I would not personally depend solely on a home battery unit for co detection, but that's not John's suggestion either, as I read it. I think his is 3rd backup.

 

RV Safe describes their gas detector as "battery powered", that is misleading since you must hard-wire it to a 12 volt source. It has no internal batteries.

This is what Kidde says, they market it as a portable unit.

"Protection Everywhere. This is a battery-operated, free-standing carbon monoxide alarm that can be placed on a counter, nightstand or tabletop, or it can be taken with while traveling or camping so that you can always be sure you are in a safe environment. Additionally, if it is your preference, it includes the hardware necessary for installation on walls."

An RV isn't going to hurt it, There are no moving parts except the battery door and the push buttons. I imagine Oliver chose their galley combo unit way back when there were few alternatives. It may also have to do with certification and expected life span of the gas detector part.

John Davies
Spokane WA

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SOLD 07/23 "Mouse":  2017 Legacy Elite II Two Beds, Hull Number 218, See my HOW TO threads: https://olivertraveltrailers.com/topic/john-e-davies-how-to-threads-and-tech-articles-links/

Tow Vehicle: 2013 Land Cruiser 200, 32” LT tires, airbags, Safari snorkel, Maggiolina Grand Tour 360 Carbon RTT.

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