CO detector goes off, ?? false alarm

[MAG]

Great you got this figured out!

 We had a similar puzzle with a CO alarm a couple of years back……It took us a while to solve it…..the problem turned out to be a hand pump of alcohol based hand cleaner that we sat on the table at night to clean hands after using the bathroom.  Shortly after using the hand cleaner, the alarm would go off!  We moved the hand cleaner to the bath room, and the alarm has been well-behaved since.  

[John E Davies]

3 hours ago, MAG said:

.  Shortly after using the hand cleaner, the alarm would go off!  We moved the hand cleaner to the bath room, and the alarm has been well-behaved since.  

Our two dogs “alarm” when one of us uses hand sanitizer after getting into the truck. 20 seconds later they both sneeze, one time each.

John Davies

Spokane WA

[Gliddenwoods]

On 5/19/2022 at 6:10 AM, johnwen said:

I submitted this to OTT

 

On 5/19/2022 at 6:04 AM, johnwen said:

AHAAAAA!!!!  After lying around all night I came up with the idea of approaching this problem from another angle 🙂  I took a very bright light, at night, and shone it from the top of the control panel on the front of the refrigerator, inside the trailer, and there it was plain as day as I looked through the upper vent from the outside......it is an improper mating of the fridge and the cabinet, at the top of the unit.  My guess is that the fridge frame is not compressing the combustion seal and there is a gap between the two.  Anyway, at least I can identify the problem with the aid of my flashlight.  Now, to get it fixed will be next!

John

I also have alot of wind entering my Oliver at the frig. Sounds like this topic was brought to Oliver's attention by others; was a solution found?

[johnwen]

No solution as far as I know.  I'm not saying or suggesting you do what I did as the warranty will be nullified according to Norcold and OTT, but I taped over the space between the cardboard on the outside and put foam insulation around the control panel, inside, and got the breeze to stop in the cabin. Norcold told me the space is for air circulation. I looked at previous models of the Oliver 2's  with the same Norcold unit and there is no space visible from the outside as a foam block resides on top of the fridge and is completely taped up with foil tape.  Since the Norcold models were the same as mine, I figure if there are no issues with theirs, which there weren't (as I checked with the owners), I'll take my chances with my fix.  That was 9 months ago and my unit operates the same as before my "fix".  We've experienced +15 to 105 degrees during that time.  My unit is now 15 months old.  If I prematurely age the unit I'll replace it when I have to.  I'm just saying how I finally addressed the issue and am NOT suggesting you do what I did.  No more breezes and fumes!  And, of course, no more warranty.

John

[Gliddenwoods]

5 hours ago, johnwen said:

No solution as far as I know.  I'm not saying or suggesting you do what I did as the warranty will be nullified according to Norcold and OTT, but I taped over the space between the cardboard on the outside and put foam insulation around the control panel, inside, and got the breeze to stop in the cabin. Norcold told me the space is for air circulation. I looked at previous models of the Oliver 2's  with the same Norcold unit and there is no space visible from the outside as a foam block resides on top of the fridge and is completely taped up with foil tape.  Since the Norcold models were the same as mine, I figure if there are no issues with theirs, which there weren't (as I checked with the owners), I'll take my chances with my fix.  That was 9 months ago and my unit operates the same as before my "fix".  We've experienced +15 to 105 degrees during that time.  My unit is now 15 months old.  If I prematurely age the unit I'll replace it when I have to.  I'm just saying how I finally addressed the issue and am NOT suggesting you do what I did.  No more breezes and fumes!  And, of course, no more warranty.

John

John, I spoke with Mike at Oliver and he also states that there is no real offical fix. However we did discuss some wind blockage unoffical options. Could you please share a photo of your fix as I am finding it difficult to fully understand it. It would be most appreciated. Thank-you.

[johnwen]

4 hours ago, Gliddenwoods said:

John, I spoke with Mike at Oliver and he also states that there is no real offical fix. However we did discuss some wind blockage unoffical options. Could you please share a photo of your fix as I am finding it difficult to fully understand it. It would be most appreciated. Thank-you.

Will try to get it to you tomorrow.

[johnwen]

On 3/17/2023 at 8:09 PM, Gliddenwoods said:

John, I spoke with Mike at Oliver and he also states that there is no real offical fix. However we did discuss some wind blockage unoffical options. Could you please share a photo of your fix as I am finding it difficult to fully understand it. It would be most appreciated. Thank-you.

Sorry for the delay...was havin' too much fun :)   The thin weatherstripping, from Lowes, has adhesive on one side, was somewhat of a challenge to get installed.  Put on top and both sides of control panel.

[John E Davies]

41 minutes ago, johnwen said:

Sorry for the delay...was havin' too much fun 🙂  The thin weatherstripping, from Lowes, has adhesive on one side, was somewhat of a challenge to get installed.  Put on top and both sides of control panel.

Did you cover this hole with aluminum tape?

The outside vent “system” should be completely air tight. That prevents propane gas and air leakage into the cabin and also keeps out bugs.

 

Can you post a link to the seal you used?

Thanks.

John Davies

Spokane WA

[Geronimo John]

On 3/17/2023 at 8:06 AM, johnwen said:

I taped over the space between the cardboard on the outside and put foam insulation around the control panel, inside, and got the breeze to stop in the cabin. Norcold told me the space is for air circulation.

One issue with eliminating airflow around the control board is that over time, especially in four season environments, condensation will result and the control panel can for sure be degraded.  

Back to the air movement and thinking outside of the box:  Would a can of "non-expanding" foam be feasible for fully sealing the refrig and the compartment?  Would make removal for service a PITA, but for sure it would stop the wind into the cabin issue.  

In your original post, you mentioned smelling gas at the rear of the trailer.  For our model, we purchased the rear and front extra propane ports option.  Designed mostly for BBQ's.  This could also be a cause of intermittent gas leaks.  You new sniffer would work great on this.  

GJ

[GRP]

Three weeks ago on a warranty trip to the plant we experienced the same alarm problem under dinette and service said they found and fixed a small propane leak.  However, two nights ago the alarm sounded right at bed time so we turned off all propane and slept in the cold.  We have had no more alarm incidents since that time running heater and water heater.  Alarms right at bed time are getting very old.  

 

[johnwen]

8 hours ago, Geronimo John said:

One issue with eliminating airflow around the control board is that over time, especially in four season environments, condensation will result and the control panel can for sure be degraded.  

Back to the air movement and thinking outside of the box:  Would a can of "non-expanding" foam be feasible for fully sealing the refrig and the compartment?  Would make removal for service a PITA, but for sure it would stop the wind into the cabin issue.  

In your original post, you mentioned smelling gas at the rear of the trailer.  For our model, we purchased the rear and front extra propane ports option.  Designed mostly for BBQ's.  This could also be a cause of intermittent gas leaks.  You new sniffer would work great on this.  

GJ

Didn't think about condensation possibilities, GJ.  I think I might fill the void with block styrofoam, then tape over.  The 2020 Elite 2's seem to have something like that.

Thanks,

John

[johnwen]

10 hours ago, John E Davies said:

The outside vent “system” should be completely air tight. That prevents propane gas and air leakage into the cabin and also keeps out bugs.

I agree, John, but Norcold says differently.  Sorry but I don't have a link, the weatherstripping was in an open container.  I did use a metal foil tape.  I'll probably go back and completely cover the hole you circled in your post.

Thanks,

John

[Geronimo John]

I think that the absorption refrigerators are dinosaur's and because of their many safety hazards, will at some time be eliminated from all new RV's by code changes. Only a matter of time.  

Pre solar and Litho's, this was not possible.  Now days, it is very possible to boondock with a 12V refrigerator.

GJ

[Hokieman]

On 3/19/2023 at 2:27 PM, Geronimo John said:

Would a can of "non-expanding" foam be feasible for fully sealing the refrig and the compartment?

I was thinking about  spray foam too.   This thread and John Davies experience has me concerned about my installation, so it’s high on my priority list to inspect it.   I did some checking into a company that makes DIY conversion kits for absorption fridges.  

JC-Refrigeration

I note their website does not show a kit available for my Norcold model, and I don’t know if it’s feasible to convert.   I read an installation manual, and their kit includes Great Stuff expanding foam, so perhaps that helps answer your question.  

[Geronimo John]

That would work as it is "Minimal-expanding, low pressure foam that will not bow or bend window or door frame".  Use the expanding type and you would have a huge issue and mess for sure.  I made that mistake on some window frames  ONCE.   

It was not funny at the time, but it sure taught me a good lesson about how much power expanding foam has.  

GJ

[Hokieman]

I checked DuPont website.   From the data sheet on their products…… “Cured foam is combustible and will burn if exposed to temperatures above 240°F (116°C). Do not apply GREAT STUFFTM foam around heaters, high heat lamps or recessed lighting fixtures, radiators, furnaces or fireplaces where it could contact heat conducting surfaces. Do not use GREAT STUFFTM foam inside electrical boxes or panels (applications around the outside of the boxes are permitted).”   See attached.
 

 

0901b8038095d125.pdf

[Mike W]

A strange thing happened to my Oliver a couple of weeks ago. Walked into the trailer and the Co2 detector under the dinette was chirping and all the lights were flashing. I turned on the main power switch on the panel, (the 12 volt stuff) and noticed the main, and cabinet lights were flickering. Also the 3 puck/touch lights on the  curb side were on, (but dim), and they were flickering also. I looked in the forum for answers but couldn't really find anything. I sent in a service ticket and got call from Ryder the next day. He said the only real solution for the puck lights was to replace them. I ordered the replacement, but while I was waiting, I noticed that when my batteries are full (Lifeblue lithium solar package), and the trailer in connected to shore power, the Co2 alarm goes off. this has never happened before, I bought the Oliver new in Dec 2020. Seems the Zamp charge controller may be the culprit. If I turn off the switch to the panels and hit the main power switch on the panel, everything goes back to normal. I don't know why Zamp still uses a PWM charge controller. I'm glad Oliver has switched to a Victron MPPT charge controller. More efficient and better unit. So now when I'm plugged into shore power I turn off the solar panels. And when im Boondocking I turn the solar panels off when the batteries are full. This seemed to remedy the Co2 alarm and the flickering lights. I'm wondering if  this caused my puck/touch lights malfunction. Any thoughts?