Does Oliver have a 2” ALUMINUM receiver that can replace the 1.25 receiver for a 2” bicycle rack, on my 2022 Elite II?

[Patriot]

1Up USA also sells the optional license plate relocation kit which I also installed. This allows for our license plate to be legally visible when we cover our bikes during travel. The XXL Yard Stash covers work great in keeping our bikes clean and dry. We have driven through some strong rain storms and they get the job done.

 

 

[dewdev]

Patriot:

Does the license plate relocation kit only work for 1 Up bike racks?

How did it connect to the Ollie bumper?

[Patriot]

36 minutes ago, dewdev said:

Patriot:

Does the license plate relocation kit only work for 1 Up bike racks?

How did it connect to the Ollie bumper?

The 1Up license plate relocation kit is designed specifically for 1Up bike racks. I feel sure that it will work on any 1Up bike rack sold. There are pre drilled holes and it bolts right up. 

here-
https://www.1up-usa.com/product/license-plate-holder-2/

Patriot🇺🇸
 

[John E Davies]

On 1/30/2023 at 9:29 AM, Patriot said:

We cover our bikes when traveling and our rear Ollie lights are still very visible.

Travel safe and 🚲Bike On! 😊

 

 

I found that cover, after using it do you recommend it over another brand?

https://www.amazon.com/YardStash-Bicycle-Cover-Bikes-Trikes/dp/B07RV63ZY3?th=1&psc=1

What stretchy net do you use?

I normally don’t cover my ebike since we camp in dry climates, but we are headed to the Oregon coast in a month…. I would like to have the ability to cover it when we encounter soaked roads while towing…

Thanks.

John Davies

Spokane WA

[Patriot]

8 hours ago, John E Davies said:

I found that cover, after using it do you recommend it over another brand?

https://www.amazon.com/YardStash-Bicycle-Cover-Bikes-Trikes/dp/B07RV63ZY3?th=1&psc=1

What stretchy net do you use?

I normally don’t cover my ebike since we camp in dry climates, but we are headed to the Oregon coast in a month…. I would like to have the ability to cover it when we encounter soaked roads while towing…

Thanks.

John Davies

Spokane WA

John,
I have not used any other cover except this one. So I have nothing to compare it to. It came highly recommended by a cyclist friend and after checking out the reviews I actually purchased (2). I thought I was going to double cover the bikes and and figured out I could but did not need to. So now I keep one as a spare. The online reviews also are pretty solid. So far this cover really helps keep our bikes clean and dry and protects them from UV and prying eyes.

The cargo net works good at keeping the cover from billowing while under way. The down side with the elastic cargo netting is a PIA to untangle when you initially remove it. If you decide to order it you will see what I mean. That said, it serves the purpose intended for. So whenever I cover the bikes with the yard stash cover the cargo netting follows. So far this combination has worked very well. Naturally if you’re only covering one bike an XL Yard Stash cover may work depending on your bike size.

Nice Ebike by the way!

Patriot🇺🇸

 

 

 

[Steve Morris]

I know there are several bike rack/hitch threads. I think this is the latest that doesn't link to a previous thread, so I'll add a couple of thoughts here.

First, instead of opening up the Oliver aluminum receiver from 1-1/4" to 2", why not simply replace it with an inexpensive steel reducing sleeve. They are 2-1/2" outside dimension, the same as the aluminum receiver. And less expensive than having the aluminum one drilled out. It can also use the current hardware, instead of drilling new holes like some of the bumper mount suggestions. I've not seen this idea in any of the receiver threads, so I might be overlooking something obvious. Thoughts?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074G1PBBH/?coliid=I1BLJ2Q447SUAN&colid=R9JV77V82AV9&psc=1&ref_=list_c_wl_lv_ov_lig_dp_it

[Steve Morris]

Secondly, I've been looking at the 1Up racks. One option would be to bolt the 1Up roof rack to the top of the Oliver bike rack crossbar. This eliminates some of the cantilevered load of a 2-bike rack. And also leaves one bike rack available if the one in the receiver hitch is removed. The only negative I see (based on holding Deb's bike on top of the crossbar) is that one pedal would need to be removed to avoid the spare tire cover. According to the dimensions on the 1Up page, nothing else would interfere.

 

 

Another idea is to completely eliminate the receiver (either the original aluminum or the above alternate reducer) and bolt the 1Up directly to the crossbar. To do so, I would only have to reproduce the piece highlighted in green, and then bolt it to the rear face of the Oliver crossbar. A support piece could be inserted to avoid crushing the tubing while through-bolting the rack mount. The negative, would be that the only way to remove the rack would be to completely remove the Oliver crossbar assembly. The advantage would be a less cantilevered load. Does this sound feasible?

 

Thanks in advance for any thoughts or suggestions. Coming from 40+ years of product design (industrial machinery) I can't help but think of alternatives. Whether they work or not is not always the case. 

[Steve Morris]

In thinking about this a bit more, I realized that permanently bolting the rack to the top of the bumper, the front basket (an idea I had a couple of days ago) or to teh back of the rear bumper as shown above, all preclude using the bike rack on my Land Cruiser when I don't have the trailer. So, I'm abandoning those options.

However, using the 2" steel receiver reducing sleeve (shown two posts up) in place of the Oliver 1-1/4" still seems like a better option than reworking the supplied receiver. Does anyone see a negative of this direction? Thanks!

[Patriot]

4 hours ago, Steve Morris said:

In thinking about this a bit more, I realized that permanently bolting the rack to the top of the bumper, the front basket (an idea I had a couple of days ago) or to teh back of the rear bumper as shown above, all preclude using the bike rack on my Land Cruiser when I don't have the trailer. So, I'm abandoning those options.

However, using the 2" steel receiver reducing sleeve (shown two posts up) in place of the Oliver 1-1/4" still seems like a better option than reworking the supplied receiver. Does anyone see a negative of this direction? Thanks!

Steve,

If this works for you I say go for it. There are many iterations of this mod.
I would just insulate the bottom of the steel reducing sleve where it contacts aluminum to try and preempt galvanic corrosion. Naturally being steel it is subject to rust. Not something I wanted to deal with.  I opted to have a local fab shop just pop the center out of the stock aluminum sleeve and it was no charge. It took them maybe 5 min with a giant press. Zero issues with many miles on the 1Up bike rack.
 

Patriot🇺🇸

[Steve Morris]

2 hours ago, Patriot said:

I opted to have a local fab shop just pop the center out of the stock aluminum sleeve and it was no charge. It took them maybe 5 min with a giant press. Zero issues with many miles on the 1Up bike rack.

Oh, I missed that it was an insert! I thought you guys were having the inside machined out. Thanks for the clarification.

I'd be pushing load limit with the bikes we're looking at:
47 pound 1Up rack
56 pound bike A
53 pound bike B
156 pound total

Kent Harriss created a custom mount for his 1Up, but I can't find the photos I saw a while back. I've messaged him on Facebook for some photos.

[GAP]

7 hours ago, Steve Morris said:

In thinking about this a bit more, I realized that permanently bolting the rack to the top of the bumper, the front basket (an idea I had a couple of days ago) or to teh back of the rear bumper as shown above, all preclude using the bike rack on my Land Cruiser when I don't have the trailer. So, I'm abandoning those options.

However, using the 2" steel receiver reducing sleeve (shown two posts up) in place of the Oliver 1-1/4" still seems like a better option than reworking the supplied receiver. Does anyone see a negative of this direction? Thanks!

I've used a bolt on steel 2" receiver on the back "bumper" for around 5000 miles so far.  Used mostly preexisting holes from the original aluminium sleeve.  Got Steel U bolts that were a bear to source and keep them from rusting by spraying a couple of times a year with a can of Fluid Film.  Added a 3rd u bolt between the two existing ones as the spacing between the spare tire housing and the rear of the receiver was too close for our comfort so decided on a bit of overkill.  As mentioned above, we use a layer of very thin but fairly rigid rubber matt between the receiver and bumper surface which I expect to switch out every couple of ears.  We carry two beefy fat bikes (= heavy) on a tray style bike rack that speaks to a 2" receiver and is "RV rated" whatever that means.  Been solid as a rock.  

 

[snakeriveridaho]

We had our fabricated, powder coated, and separated with a neoprene layer. It is very solid. 
 

Kirk

[Patriot]

2 hours ago, Steve Morris said:

Oh, I missed that it was an insert! I thought you guys were having the inside machined out. Thanks for the clarification.

I'd be pushing load limit with the bikes we're looking at:
47 pound 1Up rack
56 pound bike A
53 pound bike B
156 pound total

Kent Harriss created a custom mount for his 1Up, but I can't find the photos I saw a while back. I've messaged him on Facebook for some photos.

Our bikes and rack weigh in at 107#. Two 30# non e-bikes and the 1Up USA rack at 47#. 
It’s really how creative you want to get, how much you want to spend and what ultimately allows you to sleep well at night. It’s neat to see other bike rack mods. I opted to keep it fairly simple.

[Steve Morris]

On 6/8/2023 at 11:47 AM, Steve Morris said:

In thinking about this a bit more, I realized that permanently bolting the rack to the top of the bumper, the front basket (an idea I had a couple of days ago) or to teh back of the rear bumper as shown above, all preclude using the bike rack on my Land Cruiser when I don't have the trailer. So, I'm abandoning those options.

However, using the 2" steel receiver reducing sleeve (shown two posts up) in place of the Oliver 1-1/4" still seems like a better option than reworking the supplied receiver. Does anyone see a negative of this direction? Thanks!

Well, that's not going to work. Or at least be a reasonable option.

I knew that the top corner of the Oliver aluminum receiver was rounded to accommodate the radius of the square U-bolt. But I didn't realize that there was a groove milled down both sides and across the top, too! So, the stock U-bolt won't fit over the adaptor sleeve I bought. And the next wide square U-bolt I can find is 3/4" wider than the sleeve. I could add 3/8" shims on both sides, but it is going to look bad.

I looked at several of the bolt-on bumper hitch receiver like John Davies used. Most are Chinese, and several reviews showed failed welds. Nope! The Reese version at least has the base bent over the end of the square tube, so that might hold it if the weld failed. I might end up with that.

I also considered simply putting the OEM U-bolts around the bike rack's 2" mount. I simulated it here with the mount I use for my Hiker trailer. Disadvantages to this would be that the 1UP Super Duty Double is 48 pounds, which would be a bear to hold while I'm trying to tighten the nuts. And, I'd need to add something to act as a stop in the event the U-bolt nuts loosened enough to allow the rack to slide backward. Yikes!!

 

Here is the sleeve I ordered next to the Oliver receiver.

 

I'm not questioning the experience of those of you who punched out the insert and use the OEM aluminum receiver. You've used them thousands of miles without problem, and that's great.

But, when I saw how the aluminum receiver was milled to allow clearance for the U-bolt, I decided to take a couple of measurements. The inside of the steel 2" receiver is 2.045". I'm assuming that the OEM receiver with the insert knocked out is close to that, maybe even a little tighter. The dimension across the root of the milled slots is 2.140".

2.140-2.045= .095"/2= .0475" That's an awfully thin wall to rely on to hang 150 pounds from!! That's just over 1mm! Less that 1/16"! I'm sure the U-bolts will retain the rack if it were to fail, but please keep an eye on your mount to be sure fatigue doesn't separate the sections of the receiver.

 

[Patriot]

On 6/15/2023 at 2:14 PM, Steve Morris said:

That's just over 1mm! Less that 1/16"! I'm sure the U-bolts will retain the rack if it were to fail, but please keep an eye on your mount to be sure fatigue doesn't separate the sections of the receiver.

Steve,

All good info, as mentioned there have been no reported failures to date by owners or Oliver of using the OEM sleeve. It’s also important to note any modifications to the OEM bike rack naturally voids the factory warranty.
I do believe what’s really most important is to not exceed the weight limit of the rack.
Inspecting all things bike rack is a part of my regular maintenance checklist ✅. 

Cheers and Happy Pedal Power!

Patriot🇺🇸

[dewdev]

On 3/31/2023 at 9:33 PM, Patriot said:

1Up USA also sells the optional license plate relocation kit which I also installed. This allows for our license plate to be legally visible when we cover our bikes during travel. The XXL Yard Stash covers work great in keeping our bikes clean and dry. We have driven through some strong rain storms and they get the job done.

 

 

Patriot:

Bike covers are great, but yours covers the tail/directional lights on the Ollie.

[Patriot]

1 hour ago, dewdev said:

Patriot:

Bike covers are great, but yours covers the tail/directional lights on the Ollie.

Nope that would be incorrect. All four rear lights can be seen.
Yes, this bike cover works great.😉