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Where is this coming from? And is it a problem?


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2 hours ago, Ollietime said:

You said the pipe was still wet when this thread was started, also your Ollie is under cover; how long ago was the ceramic job performed? Would the pipe have had time to dry prior to today?

@Ollietime Yes, I said that the pipe was wet. When I inspected the closet, it had liquid in it. However, through the course of the day I've figured out that the liquid wasn't completely and only water. When we returned our trailer to its storage location (outside, but under cover), the original spot, if it was water, would have dried. It hadn't. The ground there is asphalt and it was 100 degrees today. The liquid was like it was mineral oil, clear, slick, and it won't "dry". Bottom line: I think this was a one time "mess" from the ceramic coating process.

2 hours ago, SeaDawg said:

Could be coming from another roof penetration.  How is your trailer sitting? Nose down, or up? Level side to side? Do you leave the bath vent open while parked?

Now to @Frank C, @SeaDawg, and @John E Davies points, to be sure, I will inspect the roof more completely soon and recaulk what I need to. The trailer was and is now slightly nose down. The bath vent has been closed the whole time.

Thanks for all the help today. Any recommendations for type/brand of caulk to use?

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John and Jodi

San Antonio, TX

2022 Elite II - Hull #1126 being pulled by a 2022 F-150 Powerboost.

Map Legend: Red - Driven Through; Orange - Stopped In; Blue - Explored Parts; Green - Explored Whole

 

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5 hours ago, John and Jodi said:

@Mike and Carol You're right that we haven't had any rain, but I did get my Ollie washed and ceramic coated. I never noticed the spot prior to that. I wasn't present for the work so I have no idea how the detailer washed and rinsed the trailer. If I follow this thread and assume that he was generous with the water, could the vent pipe have "filled up"? Where is the other end of the pipe connected to? If it did/does have water in it, how do I get it out? The other option is that the fluid somehow ran down the outside of the pipe and dripped into the closet.

As you probably know by now there is a cap on the vent fixture on the roof.  Water could enter the pipe in a big downpour or if you’re on the road in heavy rain.  It vents your tanks, so any water entering shouldn’t be a problem.  Water on the outside of the pipe is a different issue.  The picture from inside the closet showing light needs to be addressed!  It could be from the wash if there’s a gap in the caulking on the roof.  Mike

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Texas Hill Country | 2016 Elite II #135 | 2020 Ram 2500 6.7L

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28 minutes ago, John and Jodi said:

liquid was like it was mineral oil, clear, slick, and it won't "dry". Bottom line: I think this was a one time "mess" from the ceramic coating process

As your trailer is very new, and first time in storage, are you sure that spot wasn't there before you parked it? Just a hope, really.

There's nothing I can think of, in an Ollie, that could leak an oily spot. Have you ever seen anything dripping from the clamshell fitting?

You're nose down, so liquid could run from any rooftop opening. I'd hold off on caulking that gap above the vent tube, till I figured out if and where the liquid is coming from. Right now,  you've isolated the egress path. Time to find the ingress. Could be any opening.

We use duct tape, and a hose on any suspect opening/roof penetration.  One at a time.

I know its A PITA,  but, if you camp later, a  little nose high, and there's an opening/penetration thats leaking you could wind up with  a wet bed from water running between the hulls. 

Since that spot remains the same, doesn't evaporate,  I don't think it's water. At least, from what you've said. But, even if it's the ceramic treatment,  that got in between the hulls from some opening or roof penetration.  

Keep us posted and, open that ticket.

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2008 Ram 1500 4 × 4

2008 Oliver Elite, Hull #12

Florida and Western North Carolina, or wherever the truck goes....

400 watts solar. DC compressor fridge. No inverter. 2 x 105 ah agm batteries .  Life is good.


        
 

 

 

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On 8/5/2022 at 11:51 AM, Patriot said:

@John and Jodi also consider checking ALL of your white compression fittings on the curb side under belly area where your waterlines lay in the belly of the Ollie floor. If one of these fittings are loose and they do loosen ask me how I know😅, just hand tighten only and recheck to see if you have any further leaks…

DE79ED3B-7820-44AC-A8FA-2290DBD71942.png

Not familiar with these fittings. We used “Whale” fittings on our boat, and the were secured by just pushing them together. To remove, you push in and while holding the insert tab with thumb, pull apart. Are these like the Whale fittings?

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‘22 Ram 1500 4x4 Eco-diesel | ‘22 OTT LE2 hull # 1056 | Eastern VA

 

 

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2 hours ago, Paul and Santina said:

Not familiar with these fittings. We used “Whale” fittings on our boat, and the were secured by just pushing them together. To remove, you push in and while holding the insert tab with thumb, pull apart. Are these like the Whale fittings?

Oliver Service calls these “Compression fittings” not familiar with whale fittings as I have never owned a boat. As mentioned you tighten by hand by turning the compression fitting clockwise as it is threaded and snug it tight. It’s important to not over tighten or you could split or break this fitting. If you have not checked any of them,  I highly recommend you do. It’s a regular check on our maintenance list. 
 

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No, they're not.

Whale fittings are "push to connect" fittings. The knurled knob compression fittings are tightened by turning (usually by hand), so that the ferrule compresses the pipe., and creates the seal. Do not overtightighten, as that can crack the fittings. 

Any of them can possibly loosen with the vibrations of going down the road. Always worth checking. 

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2008 Ram 1500 4 × 4

2008 Oliver Elite, Hull #12

Florida and Western North Carolina, or wherever the truck goes....

400 watts solar. DC compressor fridge. No inverter. 2 x 105 ah agm batteries .  Life is good.


        
 

 

 

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31 minutes ago, Patriot said:

Oliver Service calls these “Compression fittings” not familiar with whale fittings as I have never owned a boat. As mentioned you tighten by hand by turning the compression fitting clockwise as it is threaded and snug it tight. It’s important to not over tighten or you could split or break this fitting. If you have not checked any of them,  I highly recommend you do. It’s a regular check on our maintenance list. 
 

 

David & Kim | Chattanooga, TN | 2017 Ram 2500 Laramie 4x4, Hemi 6.4 | Legacy Elite II Twin, Hull# 1213

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Btw, those are not "cheap" fittings. If you look them up.

Sharkbite isn't cheap. Whale isn't cheap.

Decide what you'd like to carry, if any.

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2008 Ram 1500 4 × 4

2008 Oliver Elite, Hull #12

Florida and Western North Carolina, or wherever the truck goes....

400 watts solar. DC compressor fridge. No inverter. 2 x 105 ah agm batteries .  Life is good.


        
 

 

 

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16 hours ago, SeaDawg said:

Btw, those are not "cheap" fittings. If you look them up.

Sharkbite isn't cheap. Whale isn't cheap.

Decide what you'd like to carry, if any.

@SeaDawg and @Patriot: Thanks for the info. Went to the Sharkbite web page and found ProLock push-to-connect fittings with twist-to-lock feature. They are black, but Oliver’s fittings are white. Different company? Oliver owners manual, plumbing section, states “Check with Oliver Travel Trailers for the correct method of replacement and replacement parts”.  Guess I’ll contact them. As on our boat, I like to stow a spare & a backup! 

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‘22 Ram 1500 4x4 Eco-diesel | ‘22 OTT LE2 hull # 1056 | Eastern VA

 

 

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