2008RN Posted October 4, 2022 Share Posted October 4, 2022 Everything went pretty well, thankfully all of the different things people have written online has helped. The Dexter China made bearing are still looking good at 7K miles. So I repacked the old bearings, in 2 years I will replaced the bearings with Timken. I have always packed my bearings by hand, after doing one side of the trailer by hand, I decided to pick up a bearing packer. I purchased a Lisle from a local auto parts store. The packer did a good job, although it was very hard to push done. I had to put the packer on the floor and push down with all of my upper body. THis saved me a lot of time vs doing it by hand. I saw a Gearwrench packer online, but no one had one locally. The Gearwrench had a smaller diameter than the Lisle. It was still big enough for the Oliver bearing. The smaller diameter should have made it somewhat easier to press down. I have read that someone used their foot to press down on the Lisle unit, and it worked without breaking it. I really like the clip to hold the axle nut in place. I thought it was pretty cool over using a cotter pin. The Dexter dust caps are ill fitting at best. To of them almost I had purchased Balkamp Dust caps from NAPA as suggested in the forum. I tried putting my first dust cap on with a Dust Cap application tool. I had to pound like H_ll to get it on, Like an idiot I just kept pounding. It’s on now, It is going to be really darn hard to get that off in 2 years. The caps are suppose to be 1.986” OD, Balkamp measured out @ 1.998” OD at the outside edge and 1.987-1.990 next to the flange. The ID of the hub is around 1.975. That is 0.025 of interference. I went to NAPA and measure all the caps that they have in stock. They all measured the same. I decided to use the bench grinder and grind down the OD at a taper. I took a couple of taps to get it started, and 3 good wacks to set it in place. I had one lug nut that was mangled fro the factory. I had to pound a deep well socket on the lug nut. Once the lug nut was off, I had use a drift punch to get the lug nut off. The outside of the lugs nuts are a thin sheet metal. I went to a local tire shop and bought enough solid metal chrome lugnuts to replace all cheap lugnuts. They match perfectly with the old lug nuts. I also bought 2 spares just in case. I was suprised that the tires where not balances. I got all of the tires balanced. hopefully the trailer will ride smoother. I decided to lube the suspension since very thing is easy to get to. All of the zerks took grease with the chassis jacked up and wheels of except the 3 zerks around the rear tire and the street side. I tried jacking up the axel and this didn’t help. I was resined to pulling apart the rear suspension, but then I thought I lubed everything last year with all tires on the ground. I put the wheels on, lowered the Oli back down and I was able to get grease on those 3 bolts. Not sure why? It is lubed for now. The things I forgot: To chalk the emblems on the inside of the chrome dust cap wheel covers. I think it was John Davis who suggested this. Although 2 of the emblems already have a small area where the thick rubber coating is delaminating. They are good for now, but I may need to try to find some nice looking dust cap wheel covers to replace the originals. I completey forgot to get the spare balanced. Sorry for the long winded right up. 4 Early 1999 Ford F250 SD 7.3L Diesel 2020 Elite II Twin - Hull # 648 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!Register a new account
Already have an account? Sign in here.Sign In Now