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Reconnecting new batteries


DonnaDuane

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300 amp circuit breaker likely needs to be re-set.  it's under the street side bed.

GJ

TV:  2019 F-150 SuperCrew Lariat, 3.5L EcoBoost, Max Tow, FX-4, Rear Locker      OLLIE:  2018 OE2 Hull 342, Twin Bed.    OLLIE DYI’s:  BB LiFePO4's, Victron 712 Smart, 350 Amp Master Switch, Houghton 3400, Victron Orion DC - DC, 3000-Watt Renogy Inverter, P.D. 60-amp Converter, Frig Dual Exhaust Fans, Kitchen Drawer Straps.    TV DYI’s:  2 5/16" Anderson System, Timken Bearings, Nitto recon’s, Firestone Rear Air Bags, Bilstein 5100’s, Mud Flaps & Weather Tech all.

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PS be sure to check the voltage going to the trailer.... just to make sure you have all the cables connected properly. 

If there was even a nano second of oops spark, likely the breaker saw more than 300 amps and pop.  Good news is that the breaker is fast enough that likely you did no damage.  But if it tripped, do not reset until you figure out how a + got to a - to do so..... before resetting the breaker.

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TV:  2019 F-150 SuperCrew Lariat, 3.5L EcoBoost, Max Tow, FX-4, Rear Locker      OLLIE:  2018 OE2 Hull 342, Twin Bed.    OLLIE DYI’s:  BB LiFePO4's, Victron 712 Smart, 350 Amp Master Switch, Houghton 3400, Victron Orion DC - DC, 3000-Watt Renogy Inverter, P.D. 60-amp Converter, Frig Dual Exhaust Fans, Kitchen Drawer Straps.    TV DYI’s:  2 5/16" Anderson System, Timken Bearings, Nitto recon’s, Firestone Rear Air Bags, Bilstein 5100’s, Mud Flaps & Weather Tech all.

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Yes. I have an Elite I so I’m figuring my circuit breaker is under the dinette cushion. I went to great lengths to ensure positive bridge cable went to positive terminals and 4 or so negative cables went to each of the negative terminals 

2018 Elite


TV - Audi Q5 3.0 TDI

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You mentioned a 300 amp breaker. I only saw a 30 amp along with 4 - 20 amps under a black removable panel under dinette. When I removed the seat cushion and hatch, I didn’t see anything that looked like a circuit breaker, just the power inverter.
 

am I missing something?

2018 Elite


TV - Audi Q5 3.0 TDI

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Did your 30a breaker look like this (black thing on the right), or did you just look in the fuse box?  I don’t know where it would be located in an Elite, but it’s got to be under the dinette seats or bed on the street side.  If it is popped, the little button on the top is up and the little wing is out.  Just push the wing back in and you’re set to go.  This is one of mine during a re-cabling project a couple of years ago when I replaced my AGMs with Lithium.  It’s a 60a, but the 30a looks just the same.

5C52A956-858E-4254-9E63-7364E49C8752.thumb.jpeg.1efb86e1fcf8d6b26e3d8cc8d7215203.jpeg

 

Here’s one that is popped.  See the little wing out and the button on top up.  Push the wing in.

0D1D6660-B24D-4369-9744-9E33C27B61D2.thumb.jpeg.66e358780e4bb78eb698bbf2cf7fe9a8.jpeg

Texas Hill Country | 2016 Elite II #135 | 2020 Ram 2500 6.7L

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This may sound funny on new batteries but check the batteries, my brother got new batteries for his motorhome and none of them were good! They did replace them then everything worked great. 

2021 Dodge Ram 1500 

2021 Oliver Elite ll 

Hull #732 

Michigan 

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1 hour ago, DonnaDuane said:

Can they be checked while connected to the Ollie or do I need to unbolt them first?

Your AGM batteries can be checked for proper charge while connected to your Oliver. 

I assume they are 12-volt batteries.  Place the red lead from a voltmeter on the positive terminal and the black lead on the negative terminal.  If using a multimeter, ensure that it is set to read "DC Volts."  It should read around 12.6V. 

If not, one or both may be defective.  In that case, I would disconnect the batteries from the trailer and test them individually.  If either battery separately reads less than 12.6V, I would connect a good quality battery charger that has an "AGM" mode to one of them and let it charge overnight, then re-read the voltage.  Repeat with the other battery.  If you can't get either battery to hold a charge of about 12.6V, with no loads connected, it is defective.

The reasonably-priced NOCO Genius 5 charger linked below has an AGM mode.

https://www.amazon.com/NOCO-GENIUS5-Fully-Automatic-Temperature-Compensation/dp/B07W8KJH44/ref=asc_df_B07W8KJH44/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=385121954544&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=3750609399406645391&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9029558&hvtargid=pla-1041741797992&psc=1&tag=&ref=&adgrpid=76842158285&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvadid=385121954544&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=3750609399406645391&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9029558&hvtargid=pla-1041741797992

Good luck!

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Hull #1291

Central Idaho

2022 Elite II

Tow Vehicle:  2019 Tundra Double Cab 4x4, 5.7L with tow package

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17 minutes ago, DonnaDuane said:

Here’s what I see. 

It appears you have two 6-volt batteries wired in series (positive to negative) to create a 12-volt battery bank. 

The test procedure I detailed above won't work.  I defer to those more knowledgeable about 6-volt systems to advise you regarding proper test procedures for those batteries.

 

Hull #1291

Central Idaho

2022 Elite II

Tow Vehicle:  2019 Tundra Double Cab 4x4, 5.7L with tow package

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Are they two 6 volt agm.. They need to be wired in series.. for 12 volts..   If two 12 volt batteries then parallel wired..  I have a 2022 Elite with the 2 6volt agm.  Under cover right now..

2022 Elite I  # 1179  |  2024 Tundra SR5 4x4 Crewmax. 5.5 ft. Bed. 3.31gears 10 spd.trans

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I looked in the online manual and did not find a drawing for the Elite. THIS one is for the LE2, but it shows the difference between 6 v and 12 v wiring. Your setup should look like the area in the yellow box. 

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Pull out the tray drawer again, ID all the terminals polarity and write POS and NEG beside each one in large letters with a silver Sharpie pen. After you have corrected the wiring, write + and - on the actual cable ends.

Did you take a picture before you took everything apart? If not, bad boy!

John Davies

Spokane WA

 

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SOLD 07/23 "Mouse":  2017 Legacy Elite II Two Beds, Hull Number 218, See my HOW TO threads: https://olivertraveltrailers.com/topic/john-e-davies-how-to-threads-and-tech-articles-links/

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After talking to the people I bought the batteries from, I learned that I didn't put it back together as it had been, despite my efforts to be careful to note how the originals had been wired. I connected positive to positive (parallel, 6V system), when I should have connected positive to negative to create a 12V system in series.  Thank you all for your help. I will correct this when I get home from work tonight, and let you know if all is well after making this change.

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2018 Elite


TV - Audi Q5 3.0 TDI

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2 hours ago, DonnaDuane said:

After talking to the people I bought the batteries from, I learned that I didn't put it back together as it had been, despite my efforts to be careful to note how the originals had been wired. I connected positive to positive (parallel, 6V system), when I should have connected positive to negative to create a 12V system in series.  Thank you all for your help. I will correct this when I get home from work tonight, and let you know if all is well after making this change.

From this photo you posted it looks like you connected the 2 batteries in series but with one battery with reversed (incorrect) polarity.  So you have the Oliver connections going to the negative terminal of the battery on the left and also to the negative terminal of the battery on the right, and then the jumper between the positive battery terminals.  So that’s a net zero voltage output, which would explain why you saw no power at all to the trailer.   Not sure if connecting them that way may have damaged them.  
 

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All is well. Thank you all for your help. I got everything connected properly and now have power for my trip this evening to Bend Oregon where it’s about 10 degrees. Getting the terminal bolts in with all the cables is certainly a bear. Glad I won’t be doing that again soon. 

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2018 Elite


TV - Audi Q5 3.0 TDI

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On 12/15/2022 at 9:21 AM, Rivernerd said:

Did you verify which terminals are positive and which are negative before installing the replacement batteries?

That's a "Positive" first step!  Those batteries don't appear from the picture to have their terminals clearly identified.  And that's a "Negative" too.

Sorry for the pun, I know this is frustrating for you.  Back to basics:  Use you volt meter... if you don't have one, many of us use the one below with great success from Amazon.

Just check the voltage from the two biggest cables going to your battery area.  Make sure you set the meter for DC Voltage first.  if it is not 12+ volts, then the next step is to disconnect both batteries and charge them at 6 volts as indicated above.  Once the first one is charged, measure the battery voltage.  It should be 6+ volts. 

Then do the same test with the other battery. 

For two 6 volt batteries to produce 12 volts, you need to hook them up in series.  This is + to - as indicated above.  If you were using 12 volt batteries, it would be parallel connections.  That would be + to + and - to -.  

If the above is not working, PM me and we'll talk it through on the phone.  Just remember I'm in Hawaii so please don't waken the bear too early.  🙂

GJ

 

 

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TV:  2019 F-150 SuperCrew Lariat, 3.5L EcoBoost, Max Tow, FX-4, Rear Locker      OLLIE:  2018 OE2 Hull 342, Twin Bed.    OLLIE DYI’s:  BB LiFePO4's, Victron 712 Smart, 350 Amp Master Switch, Houghton 3400, Victron Orion DC - DC, 3000-Watt Renogy Inverter, P.D. 60-amp Converter, Frig Dual Exhaust Fans, Kitchen Drawer Straps.    TV DYI’s:  2 5/16" Anderson System, Timken Bearings, Nitto recon’s, Firestone Rear Air Bags, Bilstein 5100’s, Mud Flaps & Weather Tech all.

  image.jpeg.9633acdfb75740f0fd358e1a5118f105.jpeg

 

 

 

 

 

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