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Wheel Bearing Specifications


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Hi, Folks,

I would like to know is whether any Oliver Forum members have actually manually repacked the inner wheel bearings of the 5,200 lb. axle, in addition to the outer bearings, and, if so, if you could tell me the specifications (I.D. size, etc.) of the inner grease seal that (according to all of the information I have been able to find) usually is damaged in the process of removing the inner bearings, and where you got the replacement seals. I have repacked the outer seals, but I have not manually repacked the inner seals, since I do not know what size seal to use when reinstalling the inner bearings.

 

There is an old thread on these forums titled "Packing Wheel Bearings, DIY?" and on it at least one Oliver owner said that he had greased or repacked the wheel bearings. Forum members also pointed out that some of the axle spindles have a fitting that allows the grease to pumped in with a grease gun, seemingly making it not necessary to actually disassemble and repack the bearings in the old-fashioned way. Pete (bugeyedriver), however, tells of his experience of bearing failure, which might have been due to using the Easy Lube Spindle system, according to the technicians at the repair shop that repaired his trailer's axle components.

 

If you have personally manually repacked the inner bearings of the 5200 lb. axle or if you have replaced the bearings, I would very much appreciate it if you would post the specifications for the parts and where you obtained them.

 

Thanks,

Steve

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Steve,

 

I've both manually repacked and replaced the wheel bearings on the 5200# Freedom Axle. Here are the part numbers:

Inner bearing: 25580 (1.750 inner diameter)

Race: 25520

Seal: 10-36 (double lip)

Outer bearing: 15123 (1.1250 inner diameter)

Race: 15245

 

I manually repack/replace every 10,000 miles and use the through-the-spindle fittings to repack at the intervening 5,000 mile intervals (kinda difficult to manually repack at 5,000 miles on a 7500 mile trip). My bearings look good every time and I can't help but wonder if Pete's problems may have had another cause. If you use the through-the-spindle fitting be sure to pump until new grease comes out the hub. It takes at least 1/2 large tube of grease per side. I use Mobil 1 synthetic because of its higher temperature tolerance.

 

I got my parts from etrailer.com, but the above part numbers are industry standard, I believe. And yes, you will destroy the inner seal to remove it, so ordering a few spares would be a good idea.

 

Hope this helps.

 

Aubrey

Aubrey and the two wingmen, Woodstock & Rascal


Oliver #032, "El Huevito"


Ford F-150 4x4


El Juevito's Travels
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One other thought on the subject:

 

The guys who did Pete's repairs lumped together bearing buddies with the Easy-Lube Spindles. In reality they are two completely different animals. Bearing buddies do nothing more than keep positive pressure within the bearing cavity. Great for keeping water out of axles on boat trailers when dunking a warm axle into cold water, but fairly useless otherwise. Pumping new grease into a bearing buddy does not rid it of the old grease since there is no place for it to go. Indeed, if you pump too much you'll merely blow out the inner seal.

 

The Easy-Lube Spindle, on the other hand, allows old grease to be displaced out the hub. When new grease starts coming out the hub, you can be sure the bearings are pretty well bathed in fresh grease. If the inner seal is worn or if grease is pumped in at high pressure or rate, then grease can find its way into the drum. I replace the inner seals every 10,000 miles and pump grease in somewhat slowly and haven't had grease showing up in the drum.

 

Aubrey

Aubrey and the two wingmen, Woodstock & Rascal


Oliver #032, "El Huevito"


Ford F-150 4x4


El Juevito's Travels
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