Oliver | Luxury Fiberglass Travel Trailers, Campers & RVs › Forums › OLIVER CAMPERS › Ollie Modifications › HOW TO: External Solar/ DC Power Cable Using Factory Furrion Port
- April 27, 2019 at 12:37 pm #168936
John E DaviesParticipant@john-e-davies
I wanted a large gauge cord that would provide 12v power from the trailer to my ARB compressor fridge (while inside the parked truck), and also as an extension cord in the future for use with an external solar panel. I had been using a regular 120 volt AC extension cord, but that required me to run the inverter all the time and I did not like the idea of a live high-voltage cord lying outside in wet conditions. The 12 V cord is safer and uses way less power than the inverter.
The short rear section will unplug itself, hopefully, from the front section if I drive away without disconnecting first. I do hang a red flag on the gearshift every time I connect this cable to the trailer, as a reminder!
Unlimited Solar 50 FT – 12 AWG Solar PV Multi-Conductor Tray Cable. Rugged and heavy gauge. Actually a little too stiff, it doesn’t like going past the rear hatch seal when I run it into the truck.
CNLINKO 2 Pin Power Industrial Circular Connector, Male Plug, Fit Furrion RV Solar Port:
NOCO GC018 12V Adapter Plug Socket with Eyelet Terminal. Heavy duty socket, dust cover, big wires, well built:
Powerworx Anderson Power Pole Connectors: The best choice for reliable exterior (or interior) connections, heavy duty and self cleaning contacts. I used the red/ black paired connectors, not the individual ones, and the 30 amp pins, which are for 12 to 14 AWG wire. It is impossible to connect them backwards. You can order packs of replacement parts from Powerworx to refill your kit.:
A special crimper is required: It would also be smart to order one or more of the pin extraction tools in case you make a mistake.
Instructions, getting the pin to click securely in place inside the housing may be tricky otherwise:
If you don’t have an external port on your Ollie, this is what the factory used on mine. I think it is standard equipment now. Be sure to use an inline 10 amp fuse to protect the trailer wires:
The rear section of cable, 5 feet long, from the external port connector to an Anderson red/ black pair. The black sleeve is heat shrink tubing, shrunk and secured to the cable only. It provides some rain protection, which is not really needed. It does however keep the inside of the connector cleaner, especially if you drop it in the dirt.:
Soldering the wires to the port plug is a challenge. You need to use rosin core electrical solder and a large high wattage soldering iron. The fat wires try to suck away all your heat. I added heat shrink where the wires entered, and “potted” the hole with silicone sealer to keep out water.
The main section, 25 feet long, with an Anderson pair at each end. It mates to a 5 foot “inside” cable to power the fridge. It has an Anderson pair at one end and a fused DC round socket at the other. The red sleeves are so I can find the ends easily in bad light or against a dark background.
The inline fuse holder for the round socket, rugged and reasonably weather proof. I used a 10 amp fuse since that is the rating for the Furrion socket; the fridge draws around 3 amps when the compressor is running.
The spare 25 foot extension cable, with Andersons at each end. Plus a 5 foot scrap, to use to make an adapter cable to a solar panel, if needed.
It works great, coils up and takes very little room on the closet shelf, and I am happy with the outcome. I might suggest a cable with a softer outer casing for more flexibility, but this works. It is actually hard to find cable with a flat profile, which I wanted. Most are big fat round things.
"Mouse": 2017 Legacy Elite II NARV (Not An RV) Two Beds, Hull Number 218, See my HOW TO threads: https://olivertraveltrailers.com/topic/john-e-davies-how-to-threads-and-tech-articles-links/
Tow Vehicle: 2013 Land Cruiser 200, 33" LT tires, airbags.
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