Oliver Travel Trailers | Luxury Fiberglass Travel Trailers › Forums › OLIVER CAMPERS › Mechanical & Technical Tips › Winterization Video
November 11, 2017 at 7:10 am #77854
John & Matt,
thanks very much for this video! The Flying Sea Turtle is full of the pink stuff and my mind is at ease over it because I know it was done right.
Looking forward to the De-Winterizing Video very soon! Matt, see you next week at the Mother. Ship.
Gregg & Donna Scott and Piper the Westie - The Flying Sea Turtle - Hull # 145 Western NC
Attachments:November 16, 2017 at 9:17 am #78589
My Oliver 140 was picked up in May 2016. Jason has performed the Fresh Water Tank Mod.
Can I assume that I can follow the video and be assured that my fresh tank is winterized?
Also my water heater seems to have only one inline valve at the bottom of the unit. Can I assume
that it has a check valve instead of the inline valve for the outlet? This is not mentioned in video.November 16, 2017 at 5:38 pm #78688
donbob3 – Since it has been 8 hours since you posted and no one with better knowledge of the subject has replied – and this includes just about everyone out there – I thought that I’d give you my 2 cents worth.
I assume that you emptied your fresh water tank. If that assumption is correct then there should be a little water left in it plus a little bit of anti-freeze in it . This is normal and should not cause you any problems over the winter.
I also assume that you drained your water heater and I’m assuming that your water heater is the Suburban as I’m not familiar with the tankless units. When you took out and then replaced the anode rod certainly you drained that water heater. Then the valve near the base of the water heater is the water heater by-pass valve. When you turned this it allows the anti-freeze to by-pass the empty water heater. If you didn’t do this it would take an additional 6 gallons of anti-freeze just to fill the water heater alone. And, assuming that you did empty it there is little to nothing in there to freeze.
Does that help you?
2017 Ford F150 Lariat 3.5EB FX4 Max Towing 2016 Oliver Elite II - Hull #117 "Twist"November 16, 2017 at 7:25 pm #78709
Above is true, when I check fresh tank monitor, it is showing 10% usage. I was concerned that draining the fresh tank via valve on floor still was leaving water in tank even after the tank pick-up mod.
Thanks for your comment.November 16, 2017 at 8:19 pm #78730
John E DaviesParticipant@john-e-davies
Above is true, when I check fresh tank monitor, it is showing 10% usage. I was concerned that draining the fresh tank via valve on floor still was leaving water in tank even after the tank pick-up mod. Thanks for your comment.
Did you raise the tongue? Any water left in the tank can be sucked out using the water pump, _before_ adding antifreeze (capture it in a bucket at each faucet). Or you can open the tank drain valve and let it drip a long time…. What small amount is left will be of no consequence.
If you don’t elevate the front significantly (at least six or eight inches), you can’t effectively empty it, this is simple geometry.
It’s been a while since I watched that video, does it discuss raising the front for complete draining? If so, then sorry for my comments….
"Mouse": 2017 Legacy Elite II NARV (Not An RV) Two Beds, Hull Number 218, Anderson hitch (center frame). Natures Head. Santa Cruz shotgun rack. Garmin Backup camera. TireTraker TPMS. N0-weld fresh water dip tube. Relocated surge suppressor remote. Stone Stomper. Subframe rock skirts. Rear mud flaps. Hi output USB chargers. Modified waste tee handles. Garmin inReach powered mount. Full cabin cable clothesline. Closet tiedowns. Accessory tray tiedowns. Solar panel extended support arms. See my “HOW TO” threads. ... https://olivertraveltrailers.com/my-profile/john-e-davies/?profiletab=forums&subnav=topics
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Gone: 2006 Ram 3500 QCSB 4wd, Cummins 5.9LNovember 17, 2017 at 8:23 am #78799
I will try raising front of trailer, however I have bike rack attached to back frame which extends about 3 feet. I would rather not get involved in removing rack.November 17, 2017 at 8:51 am #78802
If you haven’t ever removed the rack from the back of your Oliver, I advise you to do so. I had the factory install the aluminum frame for the new bike rack recently (I plan to buy my own Thule components that will work with a fat bike). I had to remove mine for the Oliver to fit in my storage unit. I couldn’t get it to slide out by myself. A friend helped (with the aid of a rubber mallet). We discovered that Oliver had drilled the holes with the frame in place and left lots of debris in the channels. We removed the rack and thoroughly cleaned the channels. It now slides in and out with much less effort.
2016 Elite II Twin Bed Hull #126
2016 VW Touareg TDI
States I've visited with my OllieNovember 19, 2017 at 10:01 am #79036
Raised front of trailer to drain fresh water tank. It took forever to drain (small stream). Definitely recovered several gallons. The tilting of trailer was not discussed in the winterization video. Meter now shows 6%.November 19, 2017 at 10:24 am #79042
donbob3 – with either 6% or even the 10% left in the fresh water tank you should be fine as long as you have carried out all the other steps in the video. If you are still concerned simply add another gallon of antifreeze to the fresh water tank.
2017 Ford F150 Lariat 3.5EB FX4 Max Towing 2016 Oliver Elite II - Hull #117 "Twist"November 19, 2017 at 10:58 am #79048
In the Spring, when we bring our unit out hibernation, we plan on sanitizing the water system. First we will fill our fresh water tank with fresh water, and then drain it. Hopefully this will remove any antifreeze that might be present. We will close the drain valve, and then turn on the pump (the water heater should fill, as we turn the bypass back open at end of winterizing schedule.). Starting at the kitchen faucet we flush first the cold, and then hot water faucet until there is no more pink, and then the hot. Next is the bath faucet, shower, toilet, and outside shower. We hook up the city water and run for a few minutes to remove any antifreeze that might be there. Next we will go to the short hose connection by the back bumper and suck about two cups of Clorox into the holding tank. We then run each faucet again until we smell the bleach. Shut off each faucet and leave for a couple of hours, or even overnight. The next day we drain the tank and refill. We flush each line until we can no longer smell the Clorox. Refill your tank and Bon Voyage. The easier than it sounds…November 19, 2017 at 11:36 am #79069
Canoe12 – looks like a good plan to me.
2017 Ford F150 Lariat 3.5EB FX4 Max Towing 2016 Oliver Elite II - Hull #117 "Twist"
1 user thanked author for this post.November 19, 2017 at 1:41 pm #79072
Hopefully this will remove any antifreeze that might be present. We will close the drain valve, and then turn on the pump (the water heater should fill, as we turn the bypass back open at end of winterizing schedule.)
With it winterized, the water heater is bypassed, do not remove the bypass until you actually need to, until you are ready to actually use it on a trip. It’s clean it’s dry there’s no need. With how much water the fresh tank retains upon emptying, one rinsing will leave a bit of pink stuff, although diluted, and the one thing that has always stuck with me was being warned about getting it in the water heater. So get as many drains/flushes and flushing all the other sections, to dilute it even more and maybe again before putting it back into the water heater. That includes bleaching the system too, before the water heater.
The warning was for how bad it will smell.
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2017 F350 6.7L SRW CC LB
2015 Oliver Elite II Hull #69April 15, 2019 at 11:42 am #167573
Hello, My Elite I was winterized when I picked it up in March. I’m ready to de-winterize but the video here does not seem to be working. Is there another place I can find this video or a similar one? Many thanks . TomApril 15, 2019 at 4:25 pm #167699
Yeah, that link appears to be dead. Here’s one that should work –
Snowball • LE2 256 • 2018 Ford RaptorApril 15, 2019 at 9:08 pm #167715
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