Oliver | Luxury Fiberglass Travel Trailers, Campers & RVs › Forums › OLIVER CAMPERS › Mechanical & Technical Tips › Winterizing Instructions Excellent, but
- November 22, 2008 at 12:22 am #12026
We recently got instructions on winterizing from the Oliver folks, as you probably did. Given my ineptitude with things mechanical, this was much appreciated. These were well-written and clearly documented with pictures, my kind of documentation. Given that we’re stuck here until January, and its getting near single digits at night, we decided we should give it a try.
Once I figured out street side and curb side, front and back, we were on the way.
Some things have clearly changed since we got our Oliver; so some of the valves were a little harder to find than the pictures showed, but still close enough.
The only thing that did not work for us was with draining the water heater. The instructions said use a 1 and 1/8 inch wrench. Of course, I didn’t have a socket this big; so off to Lowe’s. This was too big for the nut on our heater. Stopped at auto parts and got 1 inch. Too small. Neighber brought over a 1 and 1/16 still too small. Bought a 27 ml metric – just right. Didn’t even have to take a hammer and knock er on there.
Karen thought I should pass this information on. I think she’s afraid more language like I used might contribute to global warming.
TomNovember 23, 2008 at 11:18 pm #15663
The flyer that Oliver sent out is indeed incorrect. It should have read 1 1/16" instead of 1 1/8". I’m not sure why you had trouble with the 1 1/16" socket though since it is actually interchangeable with 27mm. Oh well, could have been a little dirt on the socket, there’s only 0.0005" difference.
We drained all our tanks and lines but decided not to put antifreeze into the system. It won’t get too much below freezing here in North Mississippi and then only for short periods. We bought a little 1500 watt milk house heater at Wal-Mart. I went out there earlier this afternoon and the interior was about 68 degrees. Outside was in the low to mid forty’s.
I hope your Oliver fares well during the winter. Yours was the first one we ever saw.
Steve and Tali
Steve, Tali and the dogs: Reacher, Lucy and Rocky plus our beloved Storm and Maggie (both waiting at the Rainbow Bridge) 2008 Legacy Elite I - Outlaw Oliver, HULL NUMBER: 0026 2014 Legacy Elite II - Outlaw Oliver, HULL NUMBER: 0050 2017 Silverado High Country 2500HD Diesel 4x4November 24, 2008 at 1:26 pm #15668
Yep, Steve. I just logged on to the forum right now to delete that post. I did the arithmetic and knew the 1 and 1/16 had to be correct. In fact that is the size given in the original manual. I think my neighbor didn’t jiggle that socket to get it on correctly.
We think we completed the exercise eventually with a little on the phone coaching from Buffalo Bob. Bless his heart.
TomNovember 25, 2008 at 8:45 pm #15675
I’ve actually been meaning to post on this subject ever since I completed my winterization some 3-4 weeks ago. I’m sure no one wants to here my excuses, but I do want to share the process that I used which goes a little above and beyond what is described in the updated instructions. Maybe some of you that are just now needing to winterize will find it useful. If I’ve missed something, it’s probably already too late for me (we’ve already had a 10 degree low).
Anyway, here’s what I did (and obviously I make no guarantee that this will work for you):
-start with empty black & gray holding tanks
-drain freshwater tank (open drain valve)
-drain water heater (remove drain plug/anode)
-drain hot & cold low point drains (located near power reel) and open all fixture valves to provide venting and facilitate drainage
-blow air (regulated to 40psi) through fresh water fill and blank tank rinse connections (at least one minute each)
-repeat above step again for good measure
-close all previously opened valves and reinstall water heater plug
-blow air (again, 40psi) into city water inlet connection and open all fixture valves one by one until all water is expelled
-remove and reinstall water heater drain plug/anode a second time to ensure it is still empty after the blowout process (mine was)
-empty the black & gray holding tanks (containing primarly water) and return valves to closed position
-rotate water heater diverter valves to bypass position
-rotate water pump inlet valve to draw from white transfer hose
-place open end of white transfer hose into a gallon of RV antifreeeze
-ensure all fixture valves are closed and turn on water pump
-after system is pressurized, open all fixture valves one by one until RV antifreeze appears in full strength
-turn off water pump and open a faucet valve momentarily to depressurize the system
-remove strainer bowl on inlet side of water pump, empty water from bowl, clean any debris from metal screen, and reinstall
-pour RV antifreeze into both sinks and the shower drain to protect the P traps
-empty the black & gray holding tanks (containing primarly antifreeze) and return valves to closed position
-lower power jacks such that the trailer is level and the wheels are off the ground
-unless plugged into shore power, remove batteries and store indoors on a maintenance charger
-remove fire extinguisher and store indoors (not sure if this is necessary, but it seems like a good idea)
Regarding the water heater socket size, I used a 1-1/8" socket and it worked for me. I’m pretty sure it was a little oversized, but that’s the closest size I had on hand.
HermNovember 26, 2008 at 2:06 am #15676
This is exactly the kind of information I want to alpabetize by topic. I don’t have Revilo5 yet but next year I will need this information and I don’t want to hunt through all the posts to find it. Some modifications might be necessary for each individual’s Oliver but at least the basic steps are there. If I hadn’t of been reading and learning from the posts, I wouldn’t of had a clue of what to do or that I even needed to winterize. That goes for learning about solar panels – portable or permanent, generators – get quick connect now or hook up the longer way and on and on. I also love the goodnatured exchange on the forum between what I feel are neighbors just a little further apart across the good ol’ USA! and I can’t imagine being without the FORUM. For myself I need it to be a little more organized so that I can find what I need easier. Thanks, Jam49November 26, 2008 at 2:03 pm #15679
That’s a great post. I’m afraid we did the minimal as described in the new instructions we received. Some of your additional steps are still doable, others will wait until next time. Hopefully our lows will be more moderate than yours. Also, we’re hoping to get out of here for some of the worst of the winter.
I agree with jam49 that your instructions are surely worth keeping handy.
TomNovember 26, 2008 at 5:31 pm #15680
I just heard from Robert. He said that he printed Herm’s winterizing process and that when Robert gets a chance he will update the manual to include the winterization process with a lot of Herm’s steps to provide a better guideline in the manual. jam49November 29, 2008 at 4:18 am #15701
So.. all this winterizing talk is foreign to me. Having lived in Florida most of my adult life.. ‘winter’ is not something I usually give extra though to. And our previous trailer that we fulled timed out of did not have plumbing to worry about.
So.. can any one answer if winterizing will be necessary for us? We’ll be continuing to live full time out of the trailer throughout the winter, likely in the San Francisco Bay Area (expecting moderate temperatures).
In general, what is the lowest temp that an Oliver can go without needing to worry about winterizing while using it (not storing it – so expect heaters to be running, etc.)
– CherieNovember 29, 2008 at 12:54 pm #15702
As long as you’re living in the Oliver and keeping the interior warm there is no need for you to do anything special for winter. You should be fine.
Steve, Tali and the dogs: Reacher, Lucy and Rocky plus our beloved Storm and Maggie (both waiting at the Rainbow Bridge) 2008 Legacy Elite I - Outlaw Oliver, HULL NUMBER: 0026 2014 Legacy Elite II - Outlaw Oliver, HULL NUMBER: 0050 2017 Silverado High Country 2500HD Diesel 4x4November 29, 2008 at 4:22 pm #15706
I am glad Steve was able to answer you. Maybe the key to winterize or not is if the interior is kept warm through the winter. I won’t need the winterizing information until next winter but I am keeping it handy for when I do. jam49November 29, 2008 at 5:45 pm #15709
For those of you who would like to make it more convenient to drain your hot water heater, without a wrench, the "Tank Saver" is for you, and it’s only $11.95 from here:
Scroll down the page a little to get tho the "Tank Saver."
These people have a lot of fine merchandise for your RV water system that you don’t find in most RV supply stores, and they are a pleasure to deal with. They are full time RVers and know a lot about everything they sell. I recommend calling them, rather than using the WWW, if you want to place an order.
BTW, I just drained my fresh water tank. It showed 44% full on the digital gauge and it took over an hour to drain to empty, while the gauge still showed 14% full. Is that normal?November 29, 2008 at 6:14 pm #15710
I’d say that is typical. Crank the front end of the Oliver up and the rest will drain out. The guage will probably read 0% then. I’m not sure you can ever get all the water out. Certainly that’s not enough left to hurt the tank even if it freezes. Draining 30+ gallons to gravity out about a 3/8" i.d. line does take a while doesn’t it?
Steve, Tali and the dogs: Reacher, Lucy and Rocky plus our beloved Storm and Maggie (both waiting at the Rainbow Bridge) 2008 Legacy Elite I - Outlaw Oliver, HULL NUMBER: 0026 2014 Legacy Elite II - Outlaw Oliver, HULL NUMBER: 0050 2017 Silverado High Country 2500HD Diesel 4x4November 29, 2008 at 6:38 pm #15711
Thanks for the tip, Steve. I go try that to see if I can get the rest of the water out of the tank.
Thursday, We go to Matgorda Madness (on the Texas coast) for a fiberlass RV rally (our first). I think Pete (Bugeyedrive) may be there and we look forward to meeting him and Oscar, as well as lots of other folks.
P.S. If anyone is wanting a good and cheap paper towel holder (from WalMart), I have the Adams suction cups that can be attached to the holder, using the two screws that come with the holder. It requires that the two screws be filed down about 1/8-1/4 inch shorter in order for them to work.
I have been using this holder for about a month and it has never come down. I have it mounted right above the sink, near the back wall, behind the light, and you can take one towel off the roll at a time using only one hand.
If someone wants these suction cups just let me know and I’ll mail them to you. I bought 100 of them from Adams, and they cost me about 50 cents each, with the postage charge. You can use these cups to mount anything to your trailer. All you need do is drill a small hole for a #8 screw to go through, and attach as many of these cups to whatever it is that you would like to mount, then stick it to your trailer after a good lick on each one of the suction cups. You are limited only by your imagination as to what you can mount on your trailer with these cups.November 29, 2008 at 7:34 pm #15712
Thanks for the website. Some interesting products there.
I bought a device similar to the EZ FLOW pictured a few items above the tank saver. (Sorry to get off topic here…) I took off the aerator and attached the EZ FLOW to the kitchen faucet in the Oliver. Works great as a water saving device when rinsing dishes, washing hands, etc, etc. Instant on and off. I got it at Home Depot Asheville for about $6. I’ve seen it in a few others as well.
2008 Ram 1500 4 × 4
2008 Oliver Elite, Hull #12May 4, 2009 at 5:19 pm #16844
Having just summerized the Oliver this past weekend, I’m happy to report that the winterization I performed last fall was successful! Due to the unique plumbing system in the Oliver, I truly feel that the combination of compressed air and antifreeze is the best way to properly winterize the Oliver (particularly in cold climates).
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