charliep
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Posts posted by charliep
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I am considering retrofitting my 2009 Oliver Elite (Hull #35) with the Natures Head composting toilet after a black tank dumping disaster. I’ve looked at the past posts about this and can’t find any info on anyone actually doing it. I have a couple of questions as I would like to remove the black tank and associated drain tubing at the same time and use the space for other things. My big question is can the toilet floor be easily removed? Is it just held on with caulking or is it glassed in? I’m thinking of how best to remove the black tank and how to install a hatch to get into that space.
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I need to replace the porch light on my 2009 Oliver. Anyone know the manufacturer or source for a replacement light?
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Thanks, but none of the paperwork I have mentions the awning.
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I have a 2009-2010 Oliver Legacy Elite trailer Hull #35. Can anyone that has a similar age Oliver tell me what the model number of the Fiamma Awning is. Mine has no markings on it that are still legible. I lost a plastic outer end cap on my last trip to Lake Ouachita and want to make sure I order the right part. Thanks!
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My Oliver isn’t that old... It is a 2009 model, Hull #35. I think it may have been the last one sold before Oliver shut down production. Anyway, like all Olivers, it still looks as good as the day I bought it.
I think My Oliver may have these Perko stern lights or an off brand copy. Mine don’t have the rubber gasket and have seperate lens retaining tabs They also don’t have the uscg stamp on the lens or any manufacturer markings on the lights. I think these will fit though. I am also going to upgrade to LED bulbs while I am at it.
Thanks for the help identifying these lights.
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Anyone know where I can purchase a spare lens for my outdoor lights.
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Hi Sherry,
Thanks for the help. After searching around on the internet, I finally found the fastener that I was looking for. It is a Norcold 617772 Latch, and fits a 620505PW NORCOLD Service vent door. The vent door was about $25 and the fasteners were about $5 each. While looking around, it seems that this door is prone to falling off frequently, so I have decided to remove the broken fasteners and epoxy a nut on the back side of the bracket and use a screw for a fastener. It will be cheaper and the door won't ever fall off. Thanks again for the help.
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Anyone know where to purchase the little square twist lock fasteners that hold the refrigerator vent covers to the trailer? Mine have become brittle and a couple have broken.
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Greetings, I just replaced my 15" Maxxis tires with a new set of 16" LT tires. I would like to use the old 15" Maxxis load rang E as my spare and get rid of the load range C spare that came with my Oliver. The problem is that the spare tire cover wont fit without modifying either the bumper or the fiberglass tire cover itself. Has anyone modified their trailer to accept a full size spare? If so how did you go about doing it? Pictures would be helpful. Thanks.
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This year, I made the switch to 16" wheels and Michelin LTX tires and couldn't be happier in the appearance and ride. Here are the specs of What I purchased:Wheels from Discount tire:MB 72 - size 16 X 7 6-139.7-16MMSTires from Discount Tire:Michelin LTX M/S LT225/75R16E1 115R B
Thanks for the info Pete, I just ordered a new set for my Oliver.
Charlie P
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I am also planning on changing from 15"ST to 16"LT tires on my Oliver. Can anyone who has done this please let me know what size tires and rims they used.
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Have you installed an electronic brake controller to your new truck yet? If so it might have been wired incorrectly.
Charlie P
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I haven't measured my tongue weight yet, but I have a theory... Your fresh and gray water tanks are only a few inches high and several feet long. If you were to take a long tube of the same dimensions and fill it up half way with water and lift one end a few inches up where is all the weight? When the tanks are totally full (or totally empty) the weight is always evenly distributed. Think about what occurs when the tanks are only partially filled. If, when you are hitched up the tongue is just a couple of inches lower than level all the water will run towards the front. When this happens a lot more of the fluid weight will be in front of the axle than behind. The same thing will occur when you step on the brakes and the fluid surges forward. BTW: This is also the reason the front of the trailer needs to be elevated when emptying the tanks.
Charlie P
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Greetings,
We recently bought #35 and they changed the axle out shortly after we first got it due to unusual tire wear on the outside of curb side tire. I just put a set of new Maxxis tires on and don't have enough miles on the new tires yet to tell if there is any difference in tire wear.
Charlie P
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Greetings,
I am a new Oliver owner (I recently bought the demo unit that was in Trailer Life Mag). I just installed a macerator pump just like the ones in the previous pictures and am having less than optimal results with it. I plan to remove it and put it a removable plastic tool box like the tank buddy system as I believe the location of the pump makes it impossible to work properly.
The instructions say that the waste inlet must be installed below the rv waste outlet for proper operation. With the way it is installed now the best you can do is mount the waste inlet even with the rv waste outlet. It starts sucking air and sputtering when there is still about 8 gallons of fluids in the tanks. It stops pumping altogether when there is still 5 gallons of fluids left. This isn't too much of a problem when you are discharging downhill, but if you try to pump uphill as soon as the pump starts sucking air uphill pumping is done.
On another note, the macerator pump discharge hose is plenty long enough to pump your gray water directly into the toilet to equalize the tanks.
Charlie Porter
Composting toilet installation
in Mechanical & Technical Tips
Posted
Thanks for the replies. I got serious enough this morning to actually remove the old toilet and see what it takes to do the job. I thought that the toilet sat on a floor panel and the black tank was a separate unit underneath. I now see that the toilet sits directly on the fiberglass black tank. This should make the job a lot easier than I first thought.
My plan now is to:
1. Pressure wash and completely sanitize the inside of the black tank.
2. install Natures Head and mounting brackets
3. Temporarily seal existing hole.
4. Try it out for a while and make sure I like it.
If I don’t like it I will revert back to existing toilet. If I do like it I will remove the black water drain pipe and use fiberglass to completely seal up the black water tank and cut a new waterproof deck hatch to the side of the Natures Head and use that space for storage of extra toilet supplies. Everything will remain reversible if it needs to be removed in the future. Also, by removing the black water drain pipe it will make access to the grey water drain valve possible without having to cut a hole in the underside of the trailer again.