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  1. When we were in the early build stage of our Hull #050 back in late 2013, I asked Jim Oliver what he suggested for axles for our new Elite II. We were coming from a 2008 Elite that had a 5200 pound axle with five leaf spring packs under it. He quickly said that he would want the same ones we had on our first trailer. So that's what we went with. The plan at that time was to use 2 x 3500 pound axles with four leaf spring packs on the regular production Elite II's. With the exception of a few trailers built in 2015 with the 5200 pound setup for the reason stated previously by @rideandfly this has been the standard on all production units since the first 2014 models rolled off the line and continued that way through model year 2021. The 2022 to current Elite II models saw a change in their axles. The Elite's axle remained the same as they had always been but, In an effort to streamline production and simplify their inventory, the decision was made to use the same size axles on both the Elite and Elite II trailers. All trailers delivered since 2022 have been supplied with two 5200 pound axles with the Dexter Nev-R- Lube hubs on them. However, they stuck with the 3500 pound 4-Leaf spring packs that have always accompanied the 3500 pound axles rather than the 5-Leaf spring packs that are standard on the 5200 pound axles. Their reasoning is that the stiffer springs would cause a rougher ride and could lead to drawers coming open or cabinet doors opening up while under tow. This why the GVWR remains at 7000 pounds. In addition, Oliver has also changed from 16" wheels with LT tires to 15" wheels with ST tires. There has been some recent owner interest in obtaining the Dexter Nev-R- Lube hubs. This requires a complete axle swap as they are not compatible with the axles all the older trailers (pre-2022) are equipped with. If you are contemplating ditching the OEM 3500 pound axles for the new setups with the higher rated axles, be aware of this spring issue. I can personally attest to knowing of at least 10 spring failures on the 4-Leaf spring packs on both the older trailers and a few that have recently been delivered over the past year or so. All of these springs have broken in exactly the same place. Also, I have never heard of a single failure in any of the trailers that are equipped with the 5200 pound axle with the 5-Leaf spring pack. This includes all the Elites ever built and, to my knowledge, none of the Elites II’s that were originally built with the 5200 pound axles and the 5-Leaf spring packs. My predication is that the 4-Leaf spring packs will continue to fail no matter which axle they are installed with. My advice is if you are changing out your four leaf springs for any reason, consider a stiffer spring that the originals and to purchase and carry with you at least one extra spring pack. If you’re going to Alaska carry two sets. One owner was up around the Arctic Circle when he discovered his were broken. Not the ideal locale for a FUBAR.
    13 points
  2. How about an individually adjustable pneumatic airbag type suspension for Ollie? No axles - lighter, smoother ride - less damage to OTT and components, no more broken leaf springs, more ground clearance by adjusting air pressure, enhanced braking, and "drum roll" please.... no more zerks! ...screenshot taken from an earlier thread on "Aussie Quality RVs": ....just say'n
    13 points
  3. Leaving Jackson Hole to pick up hull 1491 “Carlotta” on Monday the 18th. Furthest east we’ve ever driven! Never had a truck - never had a trailer (actually had a Coleman pop-up many years ago, but was too busy to use it). Doug & Jill
    12 points
  4. I most certainly will. Waiting to see and touch them first and confirm the measurements and specs are right (should be no issue). Once I have confirmed this I will share the info and contact details.
    12 points
  5. I just completed installation of a Victron Smart Orion 30 amp isolated DC to DC charger after reading all the great information provided in this forum by MAX Burner, and others. I really appreciated all their groundwork and details, so I wanted to share some of my experiences in the hope that others will find it useful. I used #4 AWG wire for ease of installation and for better termination options. BatteryCablesUSA recommended their “Jumper Cable” wire and it was the best deal I found at $197 for 55’ x 2. It consists of a black and red cable joined together like zip cord, and it’s flexible enough to lay flat under it’s own weight. Their lugs and heat shrink were also reasonably priced. I sheathed the full length of the cable with 3/4” braided cable sheath for extra protection and good looks (Amazon Keko 100’ roll for $21.) I seized the ends with Amazon XFasten fabric Wire Harness Tape (5 rolls for $14.) BatteryCablesUSA also recommended Anderson SB50 connectors, instead of the larger #4 AWG rated SB120 connectors that I originally planned. They said that #4 AWG wire would fit in the SB50 #6 AWG contact pins, which it did. I used Trailer Vision covers for the Anderson SB50 connectors. A TV-201426-50 surface mount receptacle with hinged cover plate was installed under the truck bumper. It has a red LED power indicator that I discourage from connecting because it’s on all the time and annoyingly bright. They also offer a flush panel style mounting. The sheathed cord on the trailer side got the Trailer Vision TV-328993-50 plug cover. It has a protrusion that catches on the mating receptacle’s hinged cover to stop it from pulling out. It’s similar to how the 7-pin connector ports hold the plug in. It also has a LED power indicator that’s more useful because it’s only on when connected. It uses a compression gland for the cable that I filled with black RTV. Powerwerx company sells Trailer Vision parts, Anderson connectors, and other accessories for reasonable prices. Get at least 4 extra #6 Anderson pins for connecting to the Victron compression terminals as explained later. Powerwerx also sells the “PanelpodSB,” which is a surface panel mount Anderson SB50 housing for $11.99. I mounted one on the Oliver’s cargo box for “parking” the Anderson connector when it’s not plugged into the truck. It keeps with my existing theme of parking places for the 7-pin cable and RAM rear view camera cable. They also sell a tethered cap to keep it clean when traveling. The engine compartment wiring was straight forward. I connected the cable’s red wire to a 60 amp terminal post fuse on the battery positive. The black wire terminated to the battery negative. The trailer half of the sheathed cable went through a penetration behind the LP tanks. A hole was drilled through the trailer wall next to the existing penetrations with a 1-1/8” step bit. The sheathed cable passed though an Amazon PA66 1” nylon cable gland ($7.99 for two.) I used a short piece of heat shrink over the sheathing where it passed through the gland and filled the gaps with black RTV. The shelf under the bathroom sink has to be removed for access to the inside cable penetrations. From there the cable can be simply pushed under the floor to the rear dinette seat where the Victron was mounted. The Victron has some great safety features that will automatically reduce, or shutdown, the output if it gets too hot or the input voltage drops too low. It’s important to take this into consideration because it would likely happen while driving, and you wouldn’t know it without constant monitoring. Voltage drop especially comes into play with the new smart alternators that lower voltage output to save energy. The Victron’s default voltage settings account for this. However, due to the longer run of cable needed with travel trailer installations, the cable resistance can cause enough voltage drop where it can go below the default settings and cause the Victron to derate it’s output. I calculated the voltage drop for different wire gauges at 35 amps (nominal input current) and a cable distance of 53’ x 2. The results don’t include the connector and termination losses: 1.46 volt drop for #6 AWG 0.92 volt drop for #4 AWG 0.58 volt drop for #2 AWG Per Victron’s instructions, a 0.6 voltage drop can cause a “Voltage Lockout” with the default settings. There are many factors that can affect this, and fortunately the Victron defaults can be adjusted. To account for my voltage drop, I decreased the “Start Voltage” from 14 to 13 volts, and the “Shutdown Voltage” from 13.1 to 12.8 volts. These setting were recommended by “Offgrid Power Solutions,” on a You Tube video called “Victron Orion-Tr Smart DC-DC Charger settings.” Cooling is also an important consideration for the Victron because they create a lot of heat, and they derate charging current 3% for every degree above 1040 F. That’s almost 50% performance loss at only 1200. Maximum operating temperature is 1310, where I believe it shuts down completely. This is why I installed cooling fans (but also for the fun of it.) Amazon’s ”Sound Original” low profile blower fans (two for $9.99) were the right size, they had bearings, brushless motors, and a good mounting configuration for this application. The Victron was mounted on 1/4” standoffs to keep its cooling fins off the mounting surface, and it also helps the fans to distribute air more evenly. I used a Normally Open, 1040, 5 amp, thermostat switch to control the fans (Amazon Uxcell KSD9700 (2 for $5.49). The fans get power from the input terminals on the Victron so they can only come on if the truck is connected, and the temperature is over 1040. The thermostat switch resets at 860. The Victron was mounted on a painted plywood board that was attached to the forward battery compartment wall. It’s an easy to reach, out of the way location. I used 4 rubber well nuts that stay in place by themselves, but regular nuts and bolts could be used. The sheathed #4 cable was terminated to the Victron’s input compression terminals, with the fans power leads. I struggled at first with the Victron’s compression terminations, the wire wouldn’t fit, and I couldn’t find #4 square ferrels. So I was pretty pleased to discover that Anderson pins can be filed down to fit perfectly. Just be sure to cover the exposed barrels with heat shrink. The negative output of the Victron went to the main chassis ground post under the rear dinette seat where there is a 2/0 cable going directly to the battery negative. The positive output was connected to the line side of a Blue Seas 60 amp fuse block, from there it went to the line side of the existing inverter’s DC circuit breaker, which is jumpered to the battery positive with a 2/0 cable. With the TV at idle and the lithium batteries around 60%, the Victron output was 35.8 amps as measured by a clamp-on amp meter. The TV input was 42.5 amps. This calculated to 84% efficiency, which is close to Victron’s 87% claim, which I assume is under perfect conditions. I really liked the looks of the sheathed cable and Trailer Vision plug and receptacle,. The hinged receptacle cover will keep the dirt out when not towing. The plug and receptacle are locked together more securely with the Trailer Vision covers, otherwise the Anderson connectors can be fairly easily pulled apart and they might not stay together on a bumpy road. Cheers, Geoff
    12 points
  6. On the way home from the SW this year, I had the pleasure of experiencing a broken LR leaf spring while underway. It broke in the usual place (see pic). Fortunately the broken spring was noticed quickly and I found a safe place to overnight and perform the repair the next day. Unfortunately, I was not carrying a spare spring. After finding a pair of springs locally and installing them I made it home the next day. What I found when inspecting my broken spring was what appeared to be a defect in the steel (see pic). In no way do I blame Oliver for this failure as the trailer spring market is monopolized by Springs made of Chinese steel and Oliver, like all other manufacturers source from the same pool of components. In fact, after opening a service ticket, Mike was extremely helpful in getting me the specs and info I needed. I decided that once I got the trailer home I would replace all four springs with the best springs I could find. Preferably from a US company, made in the US and with US made 5160 spring steel. What I did not appreciate was that there did not appear to be any trailer parts sources which met this criteria. This was not proving to be a simple task. Everything I could find in the RV aftermarket was sourced from China. No exceptions. The only good news I found was that Chinese springs are cheap ($35-55ea). I remembered a Spring Company from my offroading days and gave them a call. They had a set of four springs which fit the measurements provided by Oliver Service and were made in the US with US 5160 spring steel. Cost is $150/ea spring but since I had already spent a fair amount of $ upgrading to stainless lugnuts and US made Timken bearings this did not prevent me from placing the order for a set of four springs and new ubolts. New springs should be here later this week. I will update with pics once I get the springs and also once I install and of course again after towing a few thousand miles.
    11 points
  7. My new springs arrived today. I confirmed measurements are correct and that they are the same size as what my E2 had when it shopped from the factory. Should be a direct bolt-in. Here are the specs on the new springs: -Made in USA with USA sourced 5160 spring steel -Bronze eye bushings vs. plastic -2,000lb rating/ea vs. 1,750 (will not change gvwr as axles/bearings remain determining factor) -5 leaves vs, 4 -second leaf extends underneath eye on each end (protecting common break area) -steel, bolted spring keepers (one each end) vs a single, sheet metal band -width = 1.75" -drop = 3” -length (eye-to-eye) = 25.25” The company I sourced them from is ALCAN. They are known for durable offroading springs and have been building custom springs for rock crawlers and overlanding vehicles for decades. Attached below is their contact info. Ask for Mike and tell him you are interested in the 1.75” wide trailer springs like he sold to Lance from Colorado. I will report back when I have them installed, but that may not be for a couple months until after the snow melts up here in the Rockies
    11 points
  8. I caught this on FB today. Oliver crew is celebrating the 1500th Ollie to roll off the line. I'm very happy for everyone at Oliver. I wonder who will get this hull #?
    11 points
  9. Got an awesome Glidecoat applied by GCI in Murfreesboro before our trip. Not cheap but looks better than the day I picked it up 6 years ago. I know there is already a lot of posts about them, just wanted to give them another thumbs up! Great job guys. Link: https://www.cgidetailing.com/olivertraveltrailers
    10 points
  10. For me and everyone who owns an OTT E2, the issue is the 2 in BD coupler comes in 5k and 7k versions. They look identical except for a small gusset at the neck welded internally. During the build of Hull 308, a 5k coupler was used on my E2 by mistake and it failed while on vacation with my family. Again, they look identical but the rating is shown on top of the ball end of the coupler. Everyone with an E2 needs to check theirs to make sure it is a 7k version and not a 5K. Best, Mike
    10 points
  11. It would be hard to say that the Older Oliver's were "made better." They were certainly made more slowly, taking an average of about 3 months of actual construction time. This was partly because the company was in a state of constant flux. They were always coming up with better ways of building them but basically they were still built one at a time making each system as they went along. It took them over 3 years to make the first 49 trailers and there were no two exactly alike. There were also some major setbacks during that early 2007-2010 run that caused Oliver to make some tough financial decisions including one that involved a recall of every trailer they had built up until that time and another that shut their doors for four years. Find me at the rally for full details. And the owner's must of been a major pain in their ass as we were always changing our mind throughout our builds. Poor Robert Partee, the former sales manager and, to many of us, the face and voice of Oliver, it was he that had to field our numerous requests and then find a way to try and make them happen. But, to his credit, it seems like he always did. The one thing he balked at and staunchly refused to entertain was my request to have my first Oliver painted green. To paraphrase his response, "No frickin' way, Buddy..." The main thing that differentiates a brand new 2024 model and my 10 year old 2014 model is the amount of innovation and improvement Oliver has poured into the trailers through the years. Solar was a relative new frontier in 2014 and now there is hardly an Oliver sold without it. Who would have thought that in this short decade we'd go from choosing between Flooded Lead-Acid batteries or upgrading to AGMs to now trying to decide how many hundreds of amp hours of Lithium we can't live without. The new 2024 Oliver Elites and Elite II's are, by far, much slicker than those built even a couple of years ago let alone those built a decade or more ago. Many people have been very happy with their trailer and have kept them for many years. Proof of this is seen in the number of units that are still in the possession of their original Owners. For the past few years I have been assisting Anita compile as accurate a list as is possible on the provenance of the older trailers and the people who have owned them through the years. We have been using early company data as well as records I compiled myself with information gleaned during the early days. To date, the Oldest Trailer still in the Original Owner's possession we found to be Hull # 007, delivered in early January of 2008. It was delivered to some guy named Bond.... 😄 just kidding about the name.
    10 points
  12. OK, a little more information provided by "Mike" at ALCAN relative to a four spring setup vs the five spring setup. I specifically asked Mike about simply swapping out our cheap, Chinese produced Dexter 4 spring set with a quality 4 spring set that they produce. He highly recommended going with the five spring set. In his opinion, the 3500 springs used by Dexter are inadequate for our trailers. That's good enough for me. I had asked about their 4 spring set as by yesterday (Friday) morning (the morning after Mountainman198) had posted the vendor source note, they had already sold out of the last 3 remaining stock of 5 spring sets to other Oliver owners. I was the first call Friday morning and he advised they were producing more next week (11-15 March) but wouldn't ship until NLT than Friday the 15th. Well we're departing on the 22nd of March for a six week trip and that schedule was almost a guarantee that at best, I might receive the shipped springs in time for the trip but wouldn't have time to install them. I of course would order them and have them with me just in case. So I locked in my order at 0700 yesterday morning. When I talked to Mike later yesterday he said based on my somewhat immediate need, he discussed with his production folks and they said they could have a set produced for me by next Wednesday (vice Friday) and they would be shipped that day. That's GREAT customer service. He also mentioned to me to me that in the time between having talked to him in the morning (0700), and when I called back at around 2PM, he had sold five more sets to Oliver trailer owners. He said "You Oliver trailer owners are a really tight knit group". He actually was so impressed, he went on line and investigated Oliver Travel Trailers. I have my RV mechanic on standby to replace my springs once they are received. He's having me bring in my trailer once I get the "shipped" notice so that it's already there in his shop the moment the springs arrive. To that end, my new springs should be installed before our departure on Friday, 22 March. I'll report back my findings once installed. Thanks again to Mountainman198 for all his efforts. Paul & Donna (2 HOBOS) hull 414 (last trailer produced in 2018)
    10 points
  13. If you are looking to buy a new Oliver Travel Trailer here are some things to consider. With the implementation of the new dealer network you now have several new options available to you that previously did not exist when you could only go to Hohenwald to buy a trailer. There are two ways to approach the first step. If you live a long way from Hohenwald and don’t want to have to drive that far to see the trailers you should check the Link on the Oliver page that will show you where all the current dealers that will be selling Oliver’s are located. There are currently 18 different locations spread across the United States. There are future plans to add new dealers here and in Canada. With the information on the locations of the dealers, if one is close to you and you want to do business with them that is perfectly fine. If one is no closer to you than Hohenwald you may choose to contact the sales team there. When contacting Hohenwald a member of the sales team will take your personal information and work with you to get you the exact trailer you want in the shortest time possible. They can take an order from you and get you into a queue to have the trailer of your dreams built for you. The current wait time after ordering is around four months. If you live in a state that does not have any dealers, they will see if there is a trailer already built and available at one of their dealers. If so, you could have your new trailer in a matter of days rather than months. Even if there is not one that is just like you desire, if a dealer has a trailer on order that is still early in its build, Oliver will work with that dealer to attempt to have the build altered to be what you want. Doing it this way will still get you a trailer much quicker than starting your build from scratch. If you live in a state that has dealers, Oliver’s agreement with those dealers is that you will be referred to them. Another option that was not previously available to you is that if you already own an RV of some sort and want to trade it in, many of the dealers might be able to do that whereas in Hohenwald, that was not and will not ever be an option. You can also buy a trailer through a dealer, do all the paperwork there and still pick it up in Hohenwald if you want to. And, as always, you are free to buy a trailer and take delivery in Hohenwald if you so choose. Both of these options are a good choice if you want to do a plant tour prior to pickup. At some relatively near future point (certainly this year) their plan is to have all sales conducted through the dealer network. The rumor that they will stop working on trailers older than two years or out of warranty is patently false. Service will continue to be done in Hohenwald. The rumor was started by a fired service employee. He and his wife propagated this rumor as well as other false information about the Oliver TT after he was terminated. It was posted both here and on the various FB pages. He has been terminated there as well and the false statements have been removed. As always, the Oliver sales staff will still be available to assist you and the dealers with any questions and issues. If none of this works for you, my suggestion is to take the list of dealers from the website and call each of them and tell them what you are looking for to see if they have one is stock that would suit your needs.
    10 points
  14. "On the road again!". Ramblers, I do feel fortunate that nothing serious happened to my family or anyone else on the road. When saner minds prevailed and after a few hours of sleep. I got out the tools and took off the broken coupler and headed to a Bulldog dealer (A and A Hitch) in Bradenton, FL. Mechanic/welder since 1985, said he had never seen one do that. Upgraded to the 2- 5/16 in coupler. 12,500 lb pull capacity and 1875 lb tongue load. A and A Hitch drilled the holes for me. Weight distribution device was never used (not needed?) pulls like and sits like an arrow, tongue weight always within spec (Yamaha 2200 gen since day 1 in basket), maybe 20K on frame, 2018 Tundra pulled without incident since day 1, mostly beach, MI and CO trips. Special thanks to @Mossemi and others for feedback and willingness to help. It really made me feel better and helped me make a better decision on how to rectify. Also, when looking at the broken coupler you can see where there was a seminal break that is rusted and then the subsequent clean fracture. The only thing holding it together was the top plate that was bent up. Check proximal to the neck for cracks. This happed without warning and I did not see the cracks from the outside. Side note: I like the gray paint. It may help someone see cracks vs. the standard black. Best, Mike
    9 points
  15. One thing I haven't seen discussed much is the quietness of the Oliver cabin relative to other RVs. With the double hull and double-glazed windows our Oliver has the quietest cabin of any RV we've owned. For anyone who camps in crowded state parks, you know how loud the neighbors can get, especially on alcohol-fueled weekends. We were very pleased to discover that retreating indoors to sleep, with the windows closed, cuts off most of the noise from sound systems, barking dogs, and partiers. We've also been able to take naps in busy rest areas without being bothered by passing trucks, etc. It works in reverse, too. One evening we were watching an action movie, pretty loud, and I went outside to make sure we weren't bothering the neighbors. Turns out, I couldn't hear the movie outside the trailer. Definitely a selling point Oliver salespeople could mention.
    9 points
  16. We're departing in less than two weeks for a six week, 5300+ mile trip around the US which is what is driving us to make the spring change NOW. I noted when I was doing my spring maintenance that the leading spring on the street side seemed to be flattening out slightly which, I am told, is the first sign of imminent leaf failure. Knowing my time constraints, Mike (at ALCAN) is expediting the production of a spring set for me to have them shipped in time for me to have my RV tech install them prior to our departure. (Yes, I could install them myself but I have a thousand other things I'm doing to prepare for this trip). As an aside: I'll be talking to Mike today (Monday the 11th) about the center bolt on his springs and ensure that they are appropriately applied for the Oliver "underslung" setup. (I'll report back on this). Cost of springs (4 sets), 4 new U bolts, and shipping is somewhere in the $750 - $800 range. He initially suggested 4 new HD shackles and 8 new shackle bolts but when I informed him the existing shackles on the Olivers have 1/2" thick side plates (which are already HD) he was pleasantly surprised and waived off the need for new ones which is a $200(ish) savings. Expecting (hoping) no surprises and I'll keep everyone informed of results. 2 HOBOS (hull 414) 2018 LEII
    9 points
  17. I really don't think you're in the minority. I don't like big crowds either, but I'll admit I do love to be in a big Oliver crowd. All of the Oliver folks that I see as friends are what I consider like-minded. Are you coming to the rally in Guntersville? I'm not a rally type of guy, but this gathering is not like any of the others I've ever attended. No pot luck suppers that likely will leave you with the squirts. No Karaoke night, although I have been known to do John Belushi's rendition of Joe Cocker's cover of the Beatles' With A Little Help From My Friends. Don't Ask. Just a bunch of Oliver-Centric folks getting together to talk, have fun and help each other.
    9 points
  18. Back in the day, Oliver used a tiny part of the facility. (We are #12.) I think it's actually measured in acres. When we picked up our trailer, it was parked in part of the very empty floor. We are so delighted to see the parking lot filled, and space used, when we visit. A very forward thinking family. Not to mention what they have done for the Hohenwald employment opportunities. In my humble opinion, it's been a great symbiosis, between the Oliver family, and the local economy. Most of the current Oliver folks don't know me, but even with a 2008, I'm treated with kindness and respect, on a timely basis. I'm sure @bugeyedriver and @ScubaRx remember the old days. We're a few of the original 50. It's fun to reminisce, but even more fun to see the growth of our favorite trailer. Old school, fuzzy photos, below. I'm so very proud of their progress. Great company culture. Great trailers. We took a chance when they were pretty much brand new. But, my engineer husband and I know quality when we see it.16 years in, we are happy campers.
    9 points
  19. On the road at Kartcher cavern SP in AZ. Since we are here for a week, I decided to Replace all tires and installed 4 new shocks at 50k miles. At same time checked springs for wear /cracks and re-lubed all Zerks. The tires had simply aged out but one in particular had an odd scalloping wear pattern. (Cause was a slightly loose bearing castle nut on that right/front wheel.) The shocks were getting a bit rusty and I decided to change as prevention. ( All 4 seemed functional upon removal.) Since the original tires were 16” LT Michelin, I stuck with the brand and now run: Michelin Agilis Cross Climate LT225 /75 R16 115R E1 BSW Shock replacement is: Monroe Magnum RV 555001 I was able to get the tires at a local Discount Tire in Sierra Vista. ( took 3 in one day and 2 the next as we had chores in town. ) Ordered shocks online and shipped to my sisters who we visited on the way here. Shocks went on quickly once the unit was jacked up so suspension was hanging. All set for the next stage of our trip where we will meet up with several owners at Ladybird Johnson for the Eclipse.
    8 points
  20. Dang it! There goes my chance at a almost free 2-5/16" Bulldog upgrade. Mossey
    8 points
  21. It appears to me that Oliver owes you reimbursement for your replacement coupler. I recommend you submit a service ticket. Oliver has acted responsibly when advised of manufacturing errors in the past.
    8 points
  22. This was put in to use our last trip and we loved it, especially the kids. No more picking up heavy 3 gallon containers for drinking water. Faucet magnetically attaches to base and can be turned or moved. Easy 1, 2 tap On/Off. Easy to clean and store easier than other water containers we have used. As much as I would like to just use on board storage H20 it never seems to taste great despite keeping it clean and tank treated. We added a 10 ft tube to make it easier to place where we want it. It came with a very short one. You can just use the connector from it for the new, longer tubing. Links below: https://a.co/d/8Toxx09 https://a.co/d/iH6ZA6w https://a.co/d/gpyMZqu
    8 points
  23. There is a ton of discussion on this and related topics here on the Forum. Don't be fooled - in virtually any situation the Oliver Travel Trailers do NOT sway. But, this is NOT the purpose of the Andersen weight distribution hitch (for the most part) with regards to Olivers. ALL 1/2 ton trucks that I'm aware of REQUIRE a weight distribution hitch. Yes, I know, your Tundra pulls your Ollie without any problem. Well, so does my Ford F-150 and it has a rated towing capacity of north of 12,000 pounds. But, Ford requires the weight distribution hitch for any hitch ball load over 500 pounds. I'm no engineer but I'm certain that there are other factors involved like braking, frame construction, steering, etc.. And, if you drive without a weight distribution hitch and are in an accident then it is likely that some well paid lawyer will investigate to try to determine exactly what your tongue weight was when you had that accident regardless of it being a factor in the accident or not. Certainly I would not want to risk my financial stability on a bet of being 15 pounds under or (over) the general 500 pound weight on the hitch ball number. There are also additional benefits of the Andersen - reduced porpoising/bouncing for one, and, perhaps additional safety margins for another. Yes, the Andersen is not cheap nor is it always "easy" to hookup and it does take a couple of additional minutes to make sure that it is ready to go. I doubt that the lack of an Andersen had much to do with what happened to your Bulldog one way or the other. However, the Andersen is still worth very serious consideration. Bill
    8 points
  24. @rideadeuce If Bulldog does in fact send a replacement coupler, be sure to request the 2-5/16" coupler. Ask them to ship it to my house and I’ll buy you the beverage of your choice!😎 Mossey
    8 points
  25. Looking at the second picture the tear in the side of the hitch shows a rusty fracture except for the last half inch. This tells me it was disaster in the making for awhile and it's another area to pay attention to in our walk around inspection. Will be interesting to hear the official analysis of the cause of the failure. I believe you have guardian angels looking out for you and your family for it could have been a much worse outcome then just a breakdown in the middle of a camping trip.
    8 points
  26. “Agree with @Ronbrink and @jd1923: "Old" is not necessarily a bad thing (sometimes).” I agree as well.
    8 points
  27. OBTW: Our new USA-made steel 5-pack springs should arrive from ALCAN Springs (Grand Junction, CO) around MAR26-ish. $671 (incl. new U-bolts), no tax, plus shipping to NM from CO. FYI: Owners interested in this mod should note that according to Mike from ALCAN, U-bolts are a one-time use item. Once they're mounted and torqued to specification and re-torqued after 50 miles, they form a "stretch fit" and cannot be reused once originally fixed to an axle.
    8 points
  28. Mike from ALCAN just called to let me know that all future orders of springs for Olivers will have the centering pins in the correct orientation for our trailers. He asked that I alert those who have ordered and who may order in the future to state the springs are for a Oliver E2. I had sent him an email asking about my understanding of how to flip the centering pins on my springs. He confirmed that flipping the pins is as simple as MountainOliver explains with a couple of C clamps, wrench, and hammer. Hopefully, I am the only Oliver owner to have to perform this step moving forward.
    8 points
  29. I finally got around to purchasing some temperature sensors so I could experiment with different cold air return locations. The original 6x10 grille (45 cu. in. free air flow) was installed right next to the furnace in my front dinette seat (Elite 1). I never understood this decision and wonder if anyone knows why Oliver put it there. It is within inches of the furnace and two supply outlets. This is not desirable for even heating and does nothing to create air flow below between the hulls, which would help keep that area warmer in colder temps. My experiment showed much better results than I anticipated. First I sealed off the OEM return with tape. Then I cut two 6" holes in some cardboard and replaced those with the rear curb and street side fiberglass seat panels. I then placed sensors on the floor of the basement down with the plumbing on each side under those holes. I placed the third sensor under the sink. When I turned on the furnace, there was very positive intake through the 6" holes, which by the way, provide a bit more free air flow than the OEM grille (~56sq.in. for 2, 6" round versus 45 sq.in. for 6x10 OEM grille, which actually has 5x9" free air flow). I brought the interior temps up from 58* to 68* in about 10-15 minutes. You can see the temperature difference in the pic below; and this is with the return air holes cut in at seat level, not at floor level and as far to the rear as I would want them! I also noticed a big improvement in heat distribution throughout the trailer, although in our small elite1, heat was never a problem in the cabin. So, before I start cutting holes in my trailer, I ask if there is something I'm missing here, and why didn't Oliver do this to begin with. It seems like a very simple way to markedly improve the performance of an already stellar trailer. Any comments appreciated! Thanks. Dave
    8 points
  30. Lagun Table Project Update: Moved the table mount from night stand to street side bed rail using @Overland's detailed instructions: Been wanting to finish this up since building the Lagun Table top last spring!!! Used a bandsaw to rough cut the four 45-degree ends - then finished them with an end cut bit on the mill: Assembled finished parts and checked fitment on PORT side bed rail: Used three 1/8" aluminum backing plates behind each of the mounting points: View from underneath: Completed new mounting area: Now we've got nightstand drawer access with table in place - whereas before, the mount was just below the drawer making it impossible to gain access to the drawer with the table mounted there: One and done - D approves and is happy, mission success! Many thanks to @Overland for developing the initial design for this great mod! Cheers, All!
    8 points
  31. Is it my imagination or is there a new main page for the OTT website? I have mixed feelings about hauling around a "luxury travel trailer". Of course it costs enough to be in the luxury category, but the trailer itself is so understated. Not flashy. Not glamorous. Unless you know what you're looking for, you might not see what makes it a luxury trailer. I'm going to be self-conscious now. Lol.
    7 points
  32. 5 nights in the camper so far. 1 @ mothership 2 @ Falls river - major storm No leaks! But the campground threatened to flood. So back to the mothership. 3 @ mothership 4-5…babbler State Park outside of St. Louis. Just electric. Subfreezing nighttime temps. All systems working as designed comfy, cozy. 😀 only two issues to speak of. 1 we seriously overpacked clothes. Whatever 😂 2 hooking up the Anderson to a ram 1500 with airbags suspension that keeps changing levels. Rereading the owners manual on how to do this. not fun. might lead to a different truck. This is day five of what we hope to be 60-ish for our first trip. Thanks to everyone who help us prepare so thoroughly. Your advice was very valuable. Hope to see you all at the rally.
    7 points
  33. So a 5000# BD hitch was installed where a 7000# BD hitch should have been installed. Sounds like the cause of failure/issue has been identified. I have not heard or read where any 7000# BD hitch has failed on an Oliver LEll. That said, all owners would be wise to periodically inspect their hitches for proper the weight rating and serviceability especially if you purchased an older preowned Oliver. Other than this I will continue towing with 💯 complete confidence in my present 7000# rated BD hitch. I feel sure Oliver will address this issue with any owners IF they have a 5000# BD on their LEll and make it right. Again, glad you and your family are safe.
    7 points
  34. It had nothing to do with your failure but I’d seriously consider adding a WD hitch to your trailer. You have a lot of tongue weight with your front storage box loaded, well above what’s recommended for a 1/2 ton.
    7 points
  35. Very good call, IMO. A SHORT RANT: It's always a good thing to get your rig & TV weighed every once in a while - we do our's at the beginning of winter and spring because our load-outs are different for each season. D & I ran into another RV'er (AS type) a couple months ago at Picacho Peak SP in AZ. We discussed GVWR - both trailer and TV. He was new to RV'ing and literally had no clue that GVWR is the maximum loaded weight of the TV (or trailer), as determined by the manufacturer and is placarded on both. He didn't know that the GVWR isn't just the weight of passengers and cargo but also the vehicle itself. I explained that the gross vehicle weight rating is all about safety. So we did a little drill - we located his placarded GVWR sticker on his TV and learned that the "useful cargo load" on his brand new Titan was 1,250lbs. On the back of an envelope we added up the weights of everything the Titan was hauling. You guessed it, with the 2 passengers, his 300# topper, camping gear, and the AS tongue weight of 950 (way over the 9-11% target wt. for a 7200# rig) - he was over his MAX cargo load by an unsafe margin. He said, "Holy crap, I need a bigger truck!" "Yup, or just pay attention to your equipment and respective weights", but that was my "inside voice." We did the same drill for his AS and discovered he was over his GVWR by several hundred pounds. The conversation went into liability issues should he perform an unsuccessful emergency stop while towing with an overloaded rig and TV - subsequently damaging property and/or causing injury. He got the point and was thankful for the conversation. He explained that no one advised him of this information during his recent purchases of the AS and Titan. The dude isn't probably the only one out there on the road without a clue about this basic, yet important topic. Admittedly, preaching to the choir here - but not only should we take this topic seriously but we can also be watchful for those like this guy and get the word out. Wouldn't be surprised if he's converted his Titan into a new 1-Ton diesel by now... HA!
    7 points
  36. I absolutely agree. ALCAN is noted for their off-road suspension work and in that environment, things will be tested beyond reasonable expectations and obviously fail occasionally. I can fully appreciate why a business like ALCAN couldn't afford to guarantee their products not to fail over the long term when used for those purposes. The potential liability alone would put them out of business. That said, I fully expect that if any of these springs failed within a few years, Mike would make good on them similarly like Oliver Trailers made good on a serious electrical failure in my trailer well after the warranty period had expired. There are lots of reasons/excuses to not upgrade to the better (costlier) springs but there is one reason I did: and she sits next to me when we're towing our trailer down the highways . Money well spent IMHO.
    7 points
  37. The most surprising thing about this story is the fact that a good ole boy from Montana would admit to owning, much less wearing, a pair of sandals. 😊
    7 points
  38. This reminds me of trip, might have been our Oliver pick up trip, driving through Texas on the return. Gassed up in Lubbock where it was calm and quite warm but by the time we were on the north end of the city wind picked up noticeably and continued to get much worse. We knew 70-90 mph winds were supposed to be in west TX that day and sure enough it happened. Made it to Palo Duro State Park just outside of Amarillo, pitch dark and temps had gone from mid 80's in Lubbock to 40 ± degrees at Palo Duro and all I had on was a t-shirt, shorts and sandals freezing to death trying to get the gate unlocked in the dark, then setting up the Ollie. There might have been half a dozen locks on the gate chain. The amazing part was the second I shut the door as we were getting settled in you could hear a pin drop. Trudi and looked at each other WTH, howling wind outside but quiet as a church mouse inside. Opened the door again, sure enough still howling wind.
    7 points
  39. I think for a variety of reasons, I will be dropping my PSI in the tires down from the 60 PSI (probably too much anyway) that I have been using down to somewhere between 45/50 PSI. I don't think the 14% stiffer springs will even be noticeable. I also have to keep in mind that Mike at ALCAN stated that (in his opinion), regardless of the spring quality issue, the 3500 lb springs used on the Olivers are too light. I'll have 5300 miles in the next 6 weeks to see if we notice any weird stuff going on in the trailer with the new springs.
    7 points
  40. Mountainman198, Just to reinforce what you said above, I also spoke to Mike this morning on the subject of center bolt concern and he advised that his own production department had brought this to his attention after I sent him a picture of my axle and springs late last week. They in fact noted that our trailers had an underspring set up which would require a change in the bolt application. (Apparently, most TTs have oversprung setups.) They had already changed the product production protocols for our trailers before anyone on our side contacted them on the issue. Any YES, anyone ordering springs should specifically mention that they are being put on an Oliver TT. He also provided that "yes, they use a much thicker brass sleeve in their springs than the industry standard. This in no way affects the reuse of our existing bolts. It's just beefier, stronger, and longer lasting than what most use in their products. Relative to "other sources" for springs, he stated that there are no other manufactures of springs in the US that use the quality of metal that they use. (Take that comment for whatever it's worth). I will say this however, If you want the "best" of something, then it is by definition is a "sole source" acquisition (Oliver trailers are a good example of that. ) Finally, Mike commented several times about how impressed he is with the Oliver TT owner community. Thus far, I am very impressed with ALCAN's attention to detail and their customer service. My springs should be installed by the first of next week [18th(ish)] so I'll report back. Paul (2 HOBOS), hull 414 ON A SIDE NOTE: The reason I sent him a picture of our axle assembly last week was that he suggested that perhaps I wanted to consider upgrading the equalizer (point where front and rear springs attach just between the tires) to a MorRyde equalizer which considerably improves the ride. At that juncture I informed him that I had already been in contact with MorRyde and after much back-and-forth data swapping with them, MorRyde determined that their product was not applicable to our trailers since we have an undersprung leaf setup which doesn't allow enough clearance between the top of the axle and the trailer frame for their product use. Mike was confused by that until I sent him a picture of our assembly so he could see what I was talking about. This is the pic that their production folks looked at and immediately realized our trailers were an "underslung" design which caused them to change the bolt setup. Hope this was enlightening.
    7 points
  41. I can confirm that these measurements match the OEM brand/model spring specs for Hull #898 as well as match the published specs for the replacements spring brand/model provided by Oliver Service for my trailer. I encourage owners to confirm the specs of their OEM springs to know what they are replacing before proceeding with replacement of any part as we know certain differences exist between out trailers based in hull# and date produced. My OEM Spring make/model was conveniently stamped into the retainer band towards the end of each of my leaf springs (see pic). From this info I did a google search and found the specs. The springs installed at the factory on Hull #898 were made by EMCO and are model #PR-4B. The specs match what Steve provided above. Added to the specs Steve provided is the bushing spec provided by Oliver. The bushing is inserted into the spring eye and our wet bolts ride inside of them. The specs for these bushings (whether plastic or bronze) is 1.75”L, 11/16 O.D.(outside diameter) and 9/16”I.D.(inside diameter). It should be noted that the bronze bushing on the ALCAN springs is thicker walled than standard such that while it still has a 9/16”I.D., the spring eye into which it is pressed is larger than 11/16”. The 9/16”I.D. Of the bushing is important on these metrics as our wet bolts (which are 9/16” must fit inside the bushing eye) I hope this makes sense. I have attached a pic for comparison OEM spring in top, ALCAN on bottom.
    7 points
  42. @Jason Foster last year was my first time going to ANY type of rally. I had a great time. I'm a solo-camper and, like you, not too found of crowds. This rally is not really a crowd, more like a sizable group of like-minded folks. LOL. I met a bunch of great new friends. I REALLY enjoyed walking the grounds early in the morning taking photos on the lake. The HUGE lake is super peaceful in both mornings and evenings and the relaxed nature of the group was inviting. I've tried to come out of my shell a bit by simply walking up to folks sitting by their campfire to say hello. Everyone is super warm and friendly. I guess if they weren't they would not show up. LOL I may end up needing to work a bit myself, but I'm an IT guy, so have internet access will travel - well, I'm trying to do that more at least. Trying to get more nerve up to do that more often as I approach retirement. I also kept busy last year helping several folks fixing small, minor issues on their rigs or show them around their new rigs - some new, some previously owned rigs. Some of the big questions I found was about hooking up the rig with the Andersen hitch system, which most folks don't spell correctly. LOL - hopefully I just did - hehe. Hope to see you there. Cheers,
    7 points
  43. Larry: This really is significant. It appears that the heat treatment was not consistant across the cross section of the spring. This would set up the spring to have force concetrations and/or embrittlement fractures. I have been contemplating various ideas to stiffen up our OE2 suspension, and the higher rating for the spring rate with a small air bag may be a step in that right direction I think. Once you have a chance to install, if they work out as hoped, I am thinking that there will be a significant number of us that will want to replace ours. With commitment for a lot of sets, it becomes possible to negotiate a group purchase at discount. Paid in advance of the production run with an option to pick up at the factory or shipped to owners desires address with additional cost. I know more than a few of us could be in their fine city later this summer. Do they have a facility suitable for installation on our trailers? The would be helpful for those of us on the road. Your thoughts? GJ PS: I OFTEN take posts of significance and turn them into a condensed word document. Hope you don't mind, but my version is attached. I find it handy having an electronic copy for down the road, and having the info you posted is GOLDEN! Made in USA leaf springs (6 FEB 2024).docx
    7 points
  44. See photo below, showing both the bottom and top vents I installed. As you can see, they are cut into the wall above and below the closet door, allowing air from the main cabin to flow into and then out of the closet. I am advised that Oliver is now installing such vents in new trailers being manufactured.
    7 points
  45. My interest in this mod is two fold. First, to create more even heat distribution within the cabin area. Second, to keep the basement above freezing as we like to camp in the early Spring and Fall. I think Oliver has overlooked the benefits of proper return air placement and what it can do to increase cabin comfort and durability of the plumbing systems between the hulls. As for between the hulls, yes, there is reflectix insulation on the floor of the outer hull, but it is also mostly an unconditioned dead air space and it gets cold down there! Especially the rear corners where there is a lot of vulnerable plumbing. The beauty of placing the return air ducts far from the furnace is that it turns this under floor space into a giant plenum where conditioned cabin air flows from the return grilles back to the furnace warming the entire area, not to mention more evenly heating the cabin itself. My test showed a dramatic increase in temperature below by moving the vents further away from the furnace. There was definitely more air flow from the vent on the same side as the furnace. But that's not surprising and could be adjusted for if one was so inclined. Just remember that your furnace has a minimum cold air return volume requirement, it's in your owner's manual. I think if you have properly sized return air vents, then outside air being sucked in through the drainage scuppers wouldn't be a issue, but this needs to be tested. This is also a simple passive setup, no fans or other support needed for it to work. I will say that if I was out in extreme cold for long periods, I might need to employ other measures. Time will tell. Now that I have these sensors, I can keep track better of what's going on between the hulls. I'll also probably add a 4" return vent in the bathroom on the side of the vanity under the TP holder. Not a lot of flat wall real estate in the E1 to place a vent but I think I can just fit one in there. More testing to do, but may have to wait until next winter unless some Arctic blast hits us again. Cheers. Dave
    7 points
  46. Not sure about that particular one. Was it a private transport? Not sure. But I have seen them leaving our facility wrapped. Oliver really does take everything into consideration. I have never seen or heard of anyone at Oliver doing a "half-job" on anything. Ever. That's the Oliver Difference.
    7 points
  47. Sorry Group ... worked on this all day yesterday & then got pulled elsewhere today ... it's pretty much finished, but I may make some tweaks. In all, once in place the actual connections and settings was the easy part. Most of the work was in redesigning and rebuilding the tray. As things worked out, I removed the OEM slide out tray but used the tray base (keeping its original dimensions) and welded in a few cross members - one large one in the rear for stability and tiedown bracket, and 4 smaller "'c" channels to carry/spread the weight. Importantly, that allowed me to use the existing bolts & holes (no add'l drilling & tapping). However ... with this setup I had to turn the batteries sideways to fit. The downside to this is 1) no slide out drawer for ease of maintenance, 2) sideways orientation made it a little difficult to reach in to make the connections. That said, since there are only the two batteries, the total number of connections was less and for future servicing they're relatively easy to remove and/or move. Note that with their height, the working area for connections was a little tight, but well doable. Sometime in the future I'd like to re-do the tray ... I'd widen it slightly side-to-side (only need another 1/2 inch! - I got a little tired and lazy & wanted to save some welding) and "oblong" the holes in the base, to fit the existing holes in the floor of the compartment. This would allow me to be able to turn 90 degrees (from shown) & have the lugs of both facing outward & side-by-side ... that'll make connecting and servicing much easier, even without the sliding drawer. Re-setting of the BlueSky Solar charging via the IPN Remote (unique to the earlier 2014/15 models) was straight forward, flipping the PD charger/controller from AGM to LI was super easy (accessible after removing the faceplate of the control unit), and (as mentioned earlier) the 7-PIN charge circuit had already been disabled ... so, ALL DONE! turned the breakers back on and, viola! ... it all worked! Now, just want to let it work for a few days. A few related notes: Kevin at EPOCH Batteries was very helpful ... placed a call on Thursday mid-morning (just before I started tearing everything apart - wanted to confirm the BlueSky Solar charge settings & had a couple of misc questions) ... he returned my call within about 20 minutes, was patient, and happy to share knowledge and advise on appropriate concerns. By the way, I'll mention here that documentation from EPOCH for the batteries is virtually nonexistent - they seem to depend on their online community for FAQs and group responses. Didn't bother me much though as, again, the swap out was pretty straight forward ... my call to EPOCH was really for confirmation and confidence building more than anything else. The EPOCH Bluetooth app works OK but could use some refinement. Each battery has its own Bluetooth connection, each battery is queried and displayed separately - a side-by-side of both would be more convenient. The app offers a minute-by-minute history of status of each, but after a short while you'll need to scroll extensively to get to the most recent data - that gets old really fast. That said, the app interface provided some very good info. An upgrade, of course (suggested by the EPOCH folks). would be to install a shunt in conjunction with a remote monitor (Victron perhaps). Related, since the app is Bluetooth to the batteries (using my iPhone), the data feed & status indicators drops once your about 20 feet from the trailer - I am worried that I'll not be able to see it from the driver seat of my truck ... still not a huge deal for me as I check the app only when in or near the trailer anyway. Oh ... and the OEM tiedown straps were too short. I replaced them with a simple ratchet strap ... it works but is not quite as "elegant" as I'd like. I'm gonna shop Amazon for a better strap setup. In all, I think I accomplished what I'd set to do - simple battery swap with no add'l components needed. The battery tray rebuild was more than I'd hoped, but otherwise I'm happy. I can appreciate that some add'l componentry and the conveniences that would provide, but I'll save that for another time. Questions? Oh ... and ... thanks, everyone, for your guidance and insights on this thread ... I've really grown to love our Oliver community over the past 3 years. Cheers! -Dan
    7 points
  48. Yep, if we press slightly on the black lead wire at the connection/solder point it causes the tank reading at the monitor to jump numbers. So this may be the culprit! We are going to monitor on our upcoming trip and may end up trying to put a daub of solder back on to "tighten" that connection, if possible.
    7 points
  49. Regarding the wet bath/dry bath perspective, we quickly came to the same conclusion as others have. And It's the first thing I bring up when someone says, "I won't have a wet bath". I point out that I don't camp out in the bath, or use it for a library. Ninety-nine percent of our day is spent someplace other than the bathroom. The fact that it's called a wet bath really doesn't change much about the way I use it compared to a similar dry bath. For us it was a non-conversation, just something to be aware of. On the note of how much RV real estate is valued at, I think Oliver knocked it out of the park with how efficiently they met all the needs in such a compact camper. Like someone pointed out, everything has trade-offs, and I think the design of the Oliver campers makes the most gain possible for the trade-offs they chose to work with.
    7 points
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