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  2. Hi Brian and Sondra, Chris and Stacie Neuhaus here from Indiana. Exciting to know they are "breaking ground" on your new home away from home. I know you guys must be feeling the excitement build. The folks at Oliver are a joy to work with, almost like family. They make the whole experience a lot of fun. We are feverishly working on a total remodel of a very small retirement home we bought a couple years ago. The plan is to live in a very small house out in the country that will require minimal upkeep and free up time for travel and exploring seasonally. I'm getting to the end of the project just in time to move in and anticipate the arrive of our Oliver. We ordered our LE2 in November and have a start date in early March and delivery is scheduled for April 19. We struggled for a number of years ourselves with the type of travel trailer we wanted for retirement, but in our case we thought we needed room for toys. We've become more realistic in the last year and finally knew the LE2 was really perfect for the type of travel and camping we wanted to do during retirement. Thanks for sharing and we look forward to crossing paths and getting to know you and everyone in the Oliver family in the years ahead.
  3. Today
  4. My trailer was delivered without solar at a time aluminum mounting plates were not part of the standard production; thus, I don't have mounting plates in my roof line. I currently have my solar panels on the top of my truck but wish to have panels on the trailer. I have spoken with Jason E, Steve/Scuba and my local RV shop about various adhesives and tapes as a means of attaching brackets to the fiberglass. Additionally, I have read everything I can find about unique panel mountings throughout the forum. Although adhesives may be viable, I would like to explore the possibility of making a custom bracket(s) tying into the middle awning brackets as part of my solar panel mounting solution (I have awnings on both sides of my trailer). I would feel a lot more comfortable having at least part of the panel brackets bolted to something solid. Does anyone have any experience using the middle awning brackets as a mounting point? or have some creative ideas using other solid mounting points?
  5. Those of us that occasionally or frequently encounter very cold weather when pursuing our passions with our Oliver can benefit immensely from the experiences and insights of others on this forum. Those that never do, or that always winterize, probably don't care as much, especially those that never boondock. Let's face it, if you have full hookups, you can put two electric space heaters in the basement and run the propane furnace at 70 and not worry. Absent shore power, cold weather can be stressful. I would like to see the Moderators expand the category of "Oliver Boondocking" and call it "Oliver Boondocking and Cold Weather Camping" so those of use that do find ourselves in frequently in cold weather and unwinterized can share our questions and insights in one place. I have spent over two years trying to figure out the eccentricities of the Oliver when it comes to balancing temperatures throughout the trailer in cold weather and I wouldn't trade my Oliver for anything else. However, what I have learned or not learned can't be shared in one giant post. And I haven't figured it all out either. After two years of moving remote wifi temperature sensors around to different places, changing out the thermostat, and opening different pathways for return air to enter the basement, I have learned a lot. Importantly, I have come to the tentative conclusion that the biggest reason that the basement temps can drop so far below the cabin temp in places is due to the fresh water tank. Heat travels through water 20 times faster than it does through air. Conventional wisdom would say that the fresh water tank would act like a hot water bottle to help keep the basement warm. However, the fresh water tank in the Oliver appears to sit on a rubber mat on the floor of the basement and that creates a direct coupled path for the heat in the water tank to be lost through the bottom of the trailer at a rate up to 20 times faster than heat is lost through the rest of the shell. This sucks heat out of the basement faster than the furnace can replace it. Even a small air gap under the fresh water tank would slow this heat loss dramatically. Unfortunately, insulating under the fresh water tank is not an option for us, although Oliver should consider doing something like it in future builds. The rapid heat loss from the fresh water tank could explain why the basement temperatures drop so much compared to cabin temperatures, unless the furnace runs constantly. I am wondering if it would help to add 2 inch or 3 inch rigid pink foam panels to the underside of the trailer between the ribs of the frame to reduce the heat loss from the fresh water tank. Am I crazy?
  6. I researched this extensively when I bought my LE II back in 2020 and confidently claimed a 30% tax credit for the cost of my solar system option (including inverter) from Oliver plus the $2800 I spent on four LiPO4 batteries (Oliver did not offer a lithium option at the time). The total tax credit was just over $1,800. As I remember, you could not claim a tax credit for lithium batteries by themselves. The batteries had to be purchased and installed at the same time as the solar system and inverter to claim a tax credit on the batteries. The rules may have changed since then.
  7. No, it's generally not humid where I live, I'm next to the Antelope Valley. Also, I don't plug my trailer into shore power. However, when I start camping again in late February and March, I'll probably get a small dehumidifier for when there is electrical at a campsite. That being said, I usually camp where there is no services.
  8. Last I checked, an RV is considered a second home if you live in it at least 14 days of the year. You can claim the cost of solar generating equipment (the panels, controller, and wiring to the batteries) but not the storage batteries or any non-solar charging equipment like the converter/inverter. (You can only claim the batteries if they can only be charged by solar and have no provision for charging by shoreline, etc.) I asked OTT to send me the dollar value of my panels, controller, charging wiring, and installation and they did so. This is mostly from memory, so check further before committing.
  9. While I love GPS for travel day I always pull out the Atlas to plan routes I’ve never been on before. I like to see route on the map and know my options. Funny to hear actual maps are a thing again.
  10. I’ve looked at that one. I’ve got regular toilet in my Ollie but have a truck camper on order for smaller adventures and was really intrigued. Good to have so many options out there.
  11. In looking at the directions for federal form 5695, it appears that the only tax credit is for a home or primary residence. That could be something other than a house, but it's where we primarily live in. I was under the impression that we could write off as a credit on taxes owed, the cost of the solar panels, and possibly the lithium batteries and inverter. Has anyone looked into whether there is a way to take a credit on taxes owed because we have purchased solar panels on our travel trailer. If you live in your Ollie and that's your primary residence, then it may qualify, but as a vacation trailer, does it qualify? TIA John
  12. Our LE2 entered production today. 50 days and counting!
  13. Yesterday
  14. I expect we will never know. But, the clever trick posted by Dewdev above should enable anyone following this thread to avoid that issue in the future: just tuck the 7-pin female connector between the aluminum frame and the fiberglass housing!
  15. Just happened to us as well. Followed Steph and Dud B, and Conner77's lead and the result was "a fix"! Yay :) John
  16. Rivernerd: I posted an update based on your feedback. What a pain. I wonder if the connector changed at the factory or if the holder inside dimensions changed.
  17. Do you have a link for the "Torque values for lug nuts" thread, I tried searching for it but no luck? Thanks!
  18. That's easy - Simply "copy" the coordinates above, then go to Google Maps and "paste" the coordinates in the "search box" and hit the enter key. A regular street map will first come up - click on that to enlarge the map. A larger map will come up and look to the left side of the screen and there will be a box that says "layers". Click on that box and the overhead satellite view will come up and you can zoom in or zoom out as you need by clicking on the + and - arrows Steve's trailer is not in this view - he must have run into town!😇 Bill Or - click on THIS
  19. I'm sure that there was no water in the sink before departure. After looking at the auto drain drawing, simply a typical gate valve with a motor and rack gear, I suspect that the gate was either not completely closed or there was some small amount of debris preventing it from sealing. What I should have done was to not open the valve immediately after finding the water in the shower pan and see if the water would seep back into the tank on it's own over time. I can certainly do that test but I won't be able to do a "slosh test" as the rig is now winterized ( and it's going to be -4 degrees soon ☹️).
  20. There is one more possibility - If you were on rough roads and/or took turns too sharply - it is possible that water from the toilet came out of the bowl, particularly if you had the bowl full before you hit the road.🤢 Bill
  21. If the gate won’t let water drain it won’t let water back up into the shower drain. I agree with Andrew, you may have run water in the sink after closing the gate. That’s the only source of water in the bath. Hydraulic pressure won’t do it. We’ve traveled thousands of miles with a nearly full gray tank, never any issues. Running water with the gate closed causes issues everytime, mostly wet socks and wet bath rug. Mike
  22. I put a REMOVE BEFORE FLIGHT keychain on the bathroom faucet handle when I close the valve before travel. Too many wet socks... 1x Remove Before Flight Red Key Chain by Apex Imports(1 Pack) https://a.co/d/2OxwnZE
  23. We added new singles from Southern Mattress in North Carolina when we converted from a standard to twin bed arrangement. They are very light and easy to lift or move. We find the comfort level to very good, although comfort is very subjective. I would suggest locating a mattress manufacturer in your area and discuss their bedding options. It would make it easier to try before buying. Mossey
  24. Not that it helps much, but I have been told the HeadlightRevolution LED headlight assemblies are much better than the Ford LED lights. So for less $, the HR lights are better than the factory upgraded lights. You still have to deal with the labor part of the equation though. The installation is not rocket science, just a few hours of disassembly and reassembly. There are very goo video on how to do this. One of the best is on the HR website.
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