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  2. The LEII meets our requirements, would not purchase a larger unit.
  3. Yesterday
  4. I like what i have, but a 26’ 7.5 wide with Oliver’s walk-in tub with shower and sink combo would be nice.
  5. Mini split that can heat/cool/filter/dehumidify. The whole roof in solar panels. Truma comfort plus (instant hot water and no wasted fresh/gray), with all the plumbing individually insulated (so recirculating hot water keeps cold water from freezing). Add a washer/dryer (stacked or even combo if 66" of height can't be found) as an option - closet if not. This would add 24" to length and give another closet or separate shower on the other side. I really like the rear dinette as our best views are usually out the rear window. So I'd keep that. Easier way to convert from table to an actual bed -- there are drop down tables that go from table height to bed support height without all the unscrewing and storing of pillars. Some of these also then work outside. Bathroom door as a pocket door or way to really be able to use front area as a bed. Ditch all the black panels and boxes on the interior and their LED lights. Dedicated waste bin solution in kitchen and bath
  6. If anyone orders an AC cover would you mind posting up a link? We don’t have our Ollie yet so I don’t know the dimensions of the AC unit n order to place an order. Thanks! -Patriot
  7. Obviously added length, dry bath, larger fridge, and queen bed or wider twins. But, I would love, love, love to see an all electric RV. The lithium batteries, 3000 watt inverter, more solar panels, compressor fridge bigger, but not too big, and an induction cook top. I am dreaming, so I know this would be expensive. Not sure how a furnace would work...are electric heaters on the market for RVs? And all done in a 26ft (ball to back bumper) OTT. On a side note, do I remember correctly that once the shorty Elite had a single bed in the back with a seat on one side and fold up table?
  8. Ideally*, I would recommend an extra 180-200W of portable solar and an extra 100Ah of battery storage if you add a fridge. That's based the two rules of thumb that guided our solar and battery selection, which I've found to be quite accurate in practice: 1) assume ~20 to 30 Ah per day for each 100W of panels. 2) your battery bank's usable Ah should be sized to ~½ of your total solar wattage To that, I'll add a third rule of thumb for Ollie users, which comes from both personal experience and reports here from others, which is that the typical battery usage for an OE2 is ~70-80 Ah per day. That includes some inverter use for hair dryer, coffee machine, etc. And I guess a fourth rule of thumb would be to budget an extra ~50 Ah per day for a compressor fridge. Mine draws ~2.5 A running, which would be a max of 60 Ah if it ran 24 hours. On good days, it will run ~50% of the time, or 30Ah, plus some for the extra draw when starting. So I see ~35 to 45 Ah on average, which makes 50 Ah a pretty good budget. We've had very good luck with our electrical, having based our solar and batteries on the above, even though we only camp in the spring, fall and winter. Apart from twice when our trailer was indoors at Oliver for service, I've only had to plug in once when not running the AC. That one time was in November, camped under trees, with no sun, and using a toaster over for 30 minutes a night. Even then, we lasted three days. So anyway, if you start with 75 Ah of base usage per day, and add 50 for the fridge, that's 125 Ah. 125 / 25 * 100 = 500W of solar. 500 / 2 = 250 Ah of usable battery storage, which would be 500 Ah of AGM batteries or 275 Ah of LFP batteries. *There's a big caveat to my recommendation, however, which is that Sherry gets by with far less solar and far less battery capacity in her OE1. I'd love to have a long conversation with her one day about how she does it. Part of that is probably that since I do have enough solar and battery capacity that I rarely give a thought to conserving (which is how I got into trouble that one time). But then if you go way, way back to my original post on sizing my solar, my goal was to have enough solar and battery that I don't have to think about it. For the most part, I'd say we accomplished that - and we still don't have, nor want, a generator. So if you run the numbers from above with more optimistic assumptions, say 60 Ah typical usage, 35 Ah fridge usage, and 30 Ah per 100 W of solar, you get 60 + 35 = 95 / 30 * 100 = 317 W of solar, and dividing by two, 160 Ah of usable battery life. Or pretty much a typical OE2. Maybe 80% of the time, that's fine, and an extra 100W portable panel might get you to 90%. At that point, it would depend on when and where you camp, how much of an electricity hog you are, and how much margin you're comfortable living with. Three cloudy days, and I bet you'd want that generator.
  9. Even with a bunch of extra panels on the roof, and more battery capacity, eventually any battery bank is going to go flat. Before you reach that point you run the generator. Or hook up the trailer and go to where the sun shines more.... gloomy, rainy forest camping is not a good choice. Nor is winter camping, you need long days of direct sun exposure. John Davies Spokane WA
  10. So, on an electric fridge, solar is enough to keep powered? What about extended cloudy days?
  11. We still have ours, too. Only 4 years and 50,000 miles though! Mike
  12. They could make a more useful interior if they reversed the layout and put the bath at the rear, where there is more headroom, and the bed at the front, where less headroom is needed. This would keep the great streamlined shape and allow headroom in the bathroom. By widening it 4" they could put a queen bed running fore and aft with just enough room to get in on each side, so no climbing over your partner. include some small cabinets over the bed. Possibly bigger windows. One on each side of the bed. And ones that don't leak with a flip up glass that can be left cracked open in the rain. By lengthening it about 6 inches, they could make a very nice dry bath with enclosed shower, and add just a bit of bed length. Make the storage area under the front bed a pass through setup with doors on each side. Because it would be longer and wider, larger tanks might fit in. Re-arrange the stove to get away from the sideways 2 burner, and add an oven, at least as an option. Keep the AC toward the rear, so it's not so loud and blowing right on the bed. Duct the heat so It actually heats the bathroom. Improve the suspension so the axles have a bit more travel and don't just bang into the frame as a stop. Upgrade the axles to 5200 lb axles with 12" brakes. Stiffen the lower outer body shell to reduce the flexing outside of the frame that so many interpret as frame flex. Upgrade the charging system with an inverter/charger combination unit that is more modern than the setup they now have. This would simplify and improve the system while making the inverter standard equipment. Offer a lithium battery option. The net result would be a trailer about 6" longer and 4" wider. They could call it the Elite 24.
  13. That's all good,and a nice mod, but honestly, we've never lost one of those original plastic/ nylon fasteners in almost 100,000 miles of towing, 12 years. I will add. We have a 2008, original equipment. Things may have changed. Sherry
  14. I have also lost a few of those black plastic retainer clips for the refrigerator vent covers somewhere "on the road"... I was able to replace them with a more reliable fastener - a cage nut, machine screw flat metal washer and flat rubber washer. I happened to have in-stock some M6 cage nuts designed to fit into a 1/4"x1/4" square punch-out in the side rails of a 19" computer server rack. They fit perfectly into the square hole in the refrigerator vent trim ring (inserted from the inside) designed to capture the black plastic retainer clip. Since my cage nuts are metric, I had to use metric machine screws. You can just as easily use inch-sized cage nuts and machine screws. The upper and lower vent covers require slightly different washer sizes and machine screw lengths as detailed below. Upper Vent: M6-1.0x20mm machine screw, 6mm or 1/4" x 3/4" diameter steel flat washer, similar size round rubber flat washer. Lower Vent: M6-1.0x25mm machine screw, 6mm or 1/4" x 5/8" diameter steel flat washer, similar size square rubber washer. Flat washers and machine screws are stainless steel. Rubber washers are cut down to fit from a larger rubber washer. If you want you can select machine screws with security heads (security torx, security hex, etc...). CAUTION: Do not tighten machine screws too much - they will crack the bracket with the square opening in the trim ring that holds the cage nut in place (don't ask me how I know this LOL). Snug but not real tight. The rubber washers are there for this purpose. Periodically check machine screws to make sure they haven't self-loosened. Tom
  15. Last week
  16. Must be the optimum spot - I had a bird condo in the same spot.
  17. Bill, if you go to their site it’s the one that pops up first (in black). When you order request white. http://www.zarcor.com/rv_products/rv-door-window-kit/ Mike
  18. Just got some door jamb pictures from some Chevy 1500 LTZ - 5.5' bed ~1500 lbs and 6.5' ~1600 lbs payload - both baby Duramax. Pretty tempting with the offers that are out there, we'll see if HD offers catch up.
  19. Beaker, I see you changed your avitar image .... you look like a very nice couple, but honestly, your previous Muppet version was a hoot, I will miss it. John Davies Spokane WA
  20. Mike - Do you remember specifically which window you ordered? There are two listed on their website. I'm thinking that since I can't go camping I might as well tackle this job I've been wanting to do for awhile! Bill
  21. It was interesting to talk to the Timken rep about seals. National receives the seals, in bulk, wrapped with a piece of plastic from their contract suppliers in Taiwan and other places. National then packages the seals into boxes that Timken provides. The Timken seal boxes do not have QR codes, but DO have the word "Timken" in the latitude and longitude lines on the rear of the box. The seals I had purchased from Amazon were clearly counterfeit as there was Chinese script in the lat/long lines. Returned them, got my money back and reordered from a different Amazon seller. Those were legit. Mission complete...
  22. Now THAT made me snort coffee onto my keyboard!!
  23. Don't forget the riveted aluminum exterior!!
  24. Well, we don’t want to go too heavy! Here’s my thoughts/list... 28’ X 7.5’, maybe 8’. Walk around queen. 4 person dinette. Dry bath. Repositioned/quieter air conditioner. Bigger refrigerator. More and easier to access storage (improve current basement). Bigger tanks - 50 gal fresh and gray, 30 gal black. Lithium option with solar. Bigger windows. Better suspension (look at the Australians/Black Series/Kedron/etc). I’m sure I’ll think of more. Mike
  25. With Covid induced time on many of our hands - and the talk of a larger Ollie - Mental musings - What does the forum think. I know its been mentioned previously, but perhaps with enough enthusiasm we could get the timeline advanced, and features we all would support. I have a few ideas - you? How much would you spend for a larger O? RB
  26. Wonder what that will weigh??? add another 1500 lbs to an EII Go to a 10k GVW? $80k? Got enough truck, but darn, 3 years - Lets add a quiet AC, wet bath, and a Danfoss DC based refer. (and windows that are 100% waterproof) RB Note - when this comes to pass - For Sale - 2018 EII et al.
  27. That'd be the dream. The 2022 Tundra will probably come with all the latest safety goodies on even its base trims. For Ford that means Lariat Ultimate, GM SLT/LTZ, and RAM special packages. The rumored hybrid turbo-six will probably be great for around town, but probably be equal to an EcoBoost on the road. But by the time that comes around, Cybertrucks will be rolling in. I'm trying to figure out the actual payload of some of the Diesel 1500 Silverados around me as they have heavy rebates and it might be the only 1500 that works close to an HD. Otherwise we'll see what rebates bring for any of the HD trucks this month.
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