JDB_Traveler

Good news, I just solved the electrical mystery about 1-hour ago. It turns out that one of the electrical connectors going to the master light switch had fractured and when I pulled on the wire the female end remained connected to the switch. I replaced the connector, reattached the wire and all lights are now functioning. I am so glade it was not a problem with a wire in the wall. Thanks to all who provided thoughts and recommendations. I am sure it is not the last challenge I will face given the Ollie basically experiences a 4 or 5 on the Richter scale each time it gets towed. Also, I have added a multimeter to my Ollie tool box. The forum is a great place to go to learn and find support.

Again, thanks for all the info and suggestions. I completely agree that nothing more can be done until I have the right tools which I will have access to starting on 7/2. Each on the road experience is a good learning opportunity, this one will allow me to add the right tools to my pack-up. I appreciate everyones patience with a newcomer. I will keep you updated and let you know what the problem was and how it was corrected so if anyone else experiences it in the future they will have something to reach back to.

The lights from those three switches do not work along with reading lights, overhead tap curtesy lights, and bathroom lights, those don't have a switch but I am assuming their power is controlled by those switches. Can you more clearly explain the two way and three way switch comment? What do you mean by this being another indicator of cause? I have been seeking help from Oliver with little to no success. I have requested help in understanding the wiring layout and they have been very hesitant to say anything because of liability concerns despite me telling them I would sign away liability. If I have to seek Oliver trained technical expertise I have to drive 6.5 hours to Salem, OR. I am really trying to avoid the drive. I am also struggling to understand how the people that build these trailers can't solve this. I agree that this is probably a 1-wire issue. I greatly appreciate the help and would welcome any other advice and suggestions.

I verified all yellow wires along the strip under the rear dinette seat and all wires going to the fuse panel as tight and secure. I also verified the integrity of all wires behind the Master Lights Switch Panel. Finally, I looked behind both rear cabinet wall panels and nothing jumped out as out of place or loose. Attached is a picture of my master lights switch panel and the three switches without power align with the lights I don't currently have. The only thing remaining I can think of is to verify if I have power going to the fuses and switches, don't currently have a multimeter (I know lesson learned, never travel without one). I am open to any other suggestions or ideas.

I greatly appreciate everyones help and will try all suggestions. For the record, the second sentence in my post stated I had a 2022 Oliver Elite II Hull #1069.

Thanks for the response and recommendations, I will check them both.

This is the first time I am posting and seeking assistance. I have an 2022 Oliver Elite II (Hull #1069) and we are currently on the road with our Olli. Yesterday when I went to turn on a reading light it would not illuminate. I then checked the master light panel and noticed that there was no power (Blue Light) to the Porch, Outside Courtesy and Cabin lights. That was confirmed by not being able to illuminate the reading lights, overhead touch lights, bathroom lights and outside lights. I did verify that the Lights Main (10A) and Cabin Lights (5A) fuses were good. Unfortunately, I don't have a volt meter with me to verify if power is going to different locations. One other thing, during the night all the lights I mentioned that are not working came on two different times by themselves and then went out again. We just started a 2-week road trip and was wondering if there is anything I can do to remedy the situation. Not having the lights are not a show stopper but rather an inconvenience.

This is great info and something I want to try before moving forward with a unit replacement, a 10dB reduction is huge. Two questions, 1) regarding the additional piece of dense foam added between the center sliding vent cover (which is right below the fan motor) and the added layer of foam insulation. Are you saying it was added under the .4" layer of stick on foam and was it cut to match the shape of the vent. I have not yet removed the grill so I don't know what things look like yet and 2) is all the work done from inside the trailer, especially wrapping the compressor? The dB reduction you achieved is at the medium setting of the Truma Aventa unit. I would appreciate and additional details you can provide.