Toby

These did the trick! Thank you very much!!

Thanks Mossemi. I appreciate the response. I did see this and there were a couple inconsistencies between the drawing and my "as built". For example I have 3 wires coming out of motor (4th and last photo), not 2 as shown on drawing. Also, there is a double terminal on the toggle that controls the jack with connection for 2 wires one of which is shown on second pic. This is not indicated on drawing. This will teach me to take plenty of pics before removing stuff. Lesson learned....again. I think what would be most useful is if someone could send a couple pics of their jack showing the terminals and which wires go where. Thanks again.

I serviced my VIP 3000 power jack a couple days ago. I have Hull 329 (2018) and I think Oliver has used these jacks for quite awhile (and continues to use them, I believe). In my exuberance (I've done this before) I disconnected the light and up/down switches and re-greassed the gears but did not take any photos to help with reassembly. Now I'm scratching my head trying to figure out what goes where. Can anyone help? The last pic shows the top of the jack motor...it has 3 wires (2 black and 1 red with one of the black wires being thicker at 10GA while the other black wire and the red wire are both 12 GA). The second to last pic shows the motor head cover and wires for the light. I do know that the orange wire is grounded on the top of the motor head. The second pic shows the switch for the jacks up/down control and the first pic shows the switch for the light. The manufacturers wiring diagram is of little help (for me). Maybe a pic or 2 showing what goes where on your rig? I know this is kinda specialized and a big ask. I would appreciate the help. Thanks.

I would like thank everyone for your advice and I have checked into each of the recommendations. As stated in my original note we love the Oliver specifically and the "fiberglass egg" concept in general. What I forgot to mention was the Bigfoot brand was a serious contender for our next travel trailer but they are currently not shipping to the US until this tariff thing is resolved. I talked to a very nice lady at their manufacturing facility a short time ago and she sounded deflated which is the only word I could use to describe her tone. She said that the majority of their trailers are sold in the US and maybe she was concerned about the company staying in business is the only thing I can think of. We have moved on from looking at Airstreams as a number of the comments in this thread indicated some real quality issues. In digging fairly extensively these issues appear to be real. We did purchase a new small(ish) Outdoors RV as it ticked most (not all) of our boxes and I plan to sell our Oliver through this forum's Classifieds. in the next couple months. Safe and fun travels. I'll honk if I see any of you Oliverites on the road!

Thanks John. We are fiberglass "fan boys" but just wish there was some sign that someone is planning to manufacture something larger. Unfortunately we see no evidence. Safe travels.

My wife and I own an Oliver Elite tandem (Hull 329) and love it. We have traveled extensively and it seems like the duration of our trips is increasing. With the duration of our trips getting longer and an occasional visit by our adult daughter we are feeling cramped and would really like some additional space. If Oliver made a larger travel trailer we'd be the first in line to buy one but even with a call to Oliver to inquire about plans for a larger rig its just not in the cards. Here's the heresy part...has anyone made the move from their beloved Oliver to another brand with more space? We've looked at other brands and the only one with a travel trailer that has a modicum of quality is Airstream. I've looked very closely at the build quality of a 25' and 27' Airstream and while it seems to surpass other brands it does not have the same level of build quality as our Oliver. So we are at a crossroads: do we sacrifice some quality for more space or do we retain the quality of an Oliver but feel cramped? I know this is a personal thing as some Oliver owners may not feel cramped at all. Thoughts, recommendations (like other brands to check out), or personal experience on the leap from and Oliver to an Airstream would be appreciated.

I'm going to replace the original Dometic refrigerator that came with our 2018 Oliver Elite with anything but Dometic. I know there is lots of info on this topic in the forum but wanted to get the latest info/opinions. When traveling we are connected to AC power about 75% of the time and "boon docking" the remainder. We have 4 AGM batteries and when these are reaching their end of life (probably another year or 2) I will probably replace with lithium. The general consensus seems to be go with a compressor (danfoss) fridge vs the absorption but I don't want to have to worry about power consumption which may not be an issue with our use profile. I'm reasonably handy and enjoy doing the hands on stuff but this retro is probably on the edge of what I have time to do so may leave the change-out to a pro, particularly if I go with one of the compressor models. So, recommendations: compressor vs absorption, brands to consider, other considerations ? Lots of knowledge and experience here so appreciate the input. Thanks.

Thanks SeaDawg. The panel light reads On and Auto but I can't toggle to AC or DC or Gas (I'd happily take any one). None of these indicator lights are lit. Did not know about the multiple control boards. You are right....what a pita! I'll call dometic on Monday. My wife, who is an absolute all-star, is excited about the trip but not so excited about living out of a cooler for 3 weeks.

Thanks Topgun and Steph/Dud for ideas/suggestions. The rig is connected to shore power using adapter from 30A. All 3 prongs are present. I opened the vent panel behind the refrigerator on the outside of the rig and checked all connections. Turns out the 6 prong display connector (upper left on circuit board) was very loose. I firmly attached it and while I was in there I checked the 2 fuses on the circuit board...both were good and all the other connections Spirits were high at this point. Went inside the rig and flipped the AC breaker on....there was power to the display panel and I toggled to auto. Spirits very high at this point. However, the refrigerator would not activate so I toggled on/off a couple times and tried to toggle to AC and DC...not auto. There were no lights under AC or DC on the display and the unit did not operate. Spirits have peaked and are on the decline. By the way this is a 2018 Elite 2 with a Dometic model RM2454 refrigerator/freezer. Now I'm off to the internet to check the manual and see if there is some kind of a "reset". Ideas and suggestions still very welcome.

In prep for a trip to southern Utah next week I have been preparing the Oliver. I posted earlier about some water freeze issues (my fault, not the Oliver) that have been corrected. I also posted about issues with our Dometic refrigerator and thought our issues were related to the often maligned circuit board that provides power and ability to cool from AC, DC, or LP gas. With help I was able to get a new circuit board (sounds like the last in the world) and installed it this morning. I'm thinking now that it may not be the board but something else. Here's the symptoms: when I am connected to shore power and flip the ac circuit breaker in the Oliver to "on" it immediately trips a GFCI breaker located on one of our outdoor outlets...not the ac circuit breaker in the home breaker box. When I disconnect shore power and attempt to operate the refrigerator via the inverter no breakers in the Oliver trip but there is no power to the refrigerator. Looking for suggestions. Faulty refrigerator?

Hope the problem is simply a cracked plastic fitting. I have to get the unit out to check it. Oliver installs these for "keeps".

Yes! Not sure what I was thinking...more like wasn't thinking!

Well, did as Ray suggested and water was flowing out of plastic shark-bite like fitting in back of Truma Aquago Instant water heater. Hopefully it's just the plastic fitting and not the Temperature Stabilizer Tank. Now to figure out how to remove unit so I can access the fitting. Hoping this isn't a cascade of problems including air leaks upstream as topgun2 mentioned. The Truma manual does not describe removal of the entire heater so I'll call Oliver tomorrow. In the interim, has anyone remove the Truma unit?

Great idea. Trying it right now.

...and this time I think the problem initiator would be me! After our last fall trip I thought I drained the water from the freshwater tank but I didn't. You can probably figure out where this is going. In prep for our upcoming trip to southern Utah I turned on the water pump and saw that the pump would not stop and no water would come out of the faucets. I looked at the pump/accumulator plumbing and saw that the filter housing (on the suction side of the pump) was cracked and had "dribbled" a small amount of water. At this point I checked the tank monitor gauge and saw that the tank was nearly full of freshwater (and if I could have kicked myself in the backside I would have). We live at near sea level in Western Washington and it seldom gets cold but this winter we had a good cold snap and I'm pretty sure that's what cracked my filter. I purchased a new filter but just replaced the stainless filter element not the entire filter body. I was so sure that this would solve my problem that I drained all water from the tank using the bottom, gravity drain and refilled the tank with water and some bleach to disinfect the tank. I oriented all the valves in their correct position and turned on the pump. As they say, No Joy, and the pump would not turn off and there was no water at the faucets. I checked the pump area and all the valves and fittings that I could see....there were no apparent water leaks. The only thing I can think of is I have an air leak (maybe because something cracked during the freeze). I also assume these pumps do not need priming after draining. Any ideas? Like most of these problems I thing its relatively simple and may also be operator error....again.