Toby

These did the trick! Thank you very much!!

Thanks Mossemi. I appreciate the response. I did see this and there were a couple inconsistencies between the drawing and my "as built". For example I have 3 wires coming out of motor (4th and last photo), not 2 as shown on drawing. Also, there is a double terminal on the toggle that controls the jack with connection for 2 wires one of which is shown on second pic. This is not indicated on drawing. This will teach me to take plenty of pics before removing stuff. Lesson learned....again. I think what would be most useful is if someone could send a couple pics of their jack showing the terminals and which wires go where. Thanks again.

I serviced my VIP 3000 power jack a couple days ago. I have Hull 329 (2018) and I think Oliver has used these jacks for quite awhile (and continues to use them, I believe). In my exuberance (I've done this before) I disconnected the light and up/down switches and re-greassed the gears but did not take any photos to help with reassembly. Now I'm scratching my head trying to figure out what goes where. Can anyone help? The last pic shows the top of the jack motor...it has 3 wires (2 black and 1 red with one of the black wires being thicker at 10GA while the other black wire and the red wire are both 12 GA). The second to last pic shows the motor head cover and wires for the light. I do know that the orange wire is grounded on the top of the motor head. The second pic shows the switch for the jacks up/down control and the first pic shows the switch for the light. The manufacturers wiring diagram is of little help (for me). Maybe a pic or 2 showing what goes where on your rig? I know this is kinda specialized and a big ask. I would appreciate the help. Thanks.

I would like thank everyone for your advice and I have checked into each of the recommendations. As stated in my original note we love the Oliver specifically and the "fiberglass egg" concept in general. What I forgot to mention was the Bigfoot brand was a serious contender for our next travel trailer but they are currently not shipping to the US until this tariff thing is resolved. I talked to a very nice lady at their manufacturing facility a short time ago and she sounded deflated which is the only word I could use to describe her tone. She said that the majority of their trailers are sold in the US and maybe she was concerned about the company staying in business is the only thing I can think of. We have moved on from looking at Airstreams as a number of the comments in this thread indicated some real quality issues. In digging fairly extensively these issues appear to be real. We did purchase a new small(ish) Outdoors RV as it ticked most (not all) of our boxes and I plan to sell our Oliver through this forum's Classifieds. in the next couple months. Safe and fun travels. I'll honk if I see any of you Oliverites on the road!

Thanks John. We are fiberglass "fan boys" but just wish there was some sign that someone is planning to manufacture something larger. Unfortunately we see no evidence. Safe travels.

My wife and I own an Oliver Elite tandem (Hull 329) and love it. We have traveled extensively and it seems like the duration of our trips is increasing. With the duration of our trips getting longer and an occasional visit by our adult daughter we are feeling cramped and would really like some additional space. If Oliver made a larger travel trailer we'd be the first in line to buy one but even with a call to Oliver to inquire about plans for a larger rig its just not in the cards. Here's the heresy part...has anyone made the move from their beloved Oliver to another brand with more space? We've looked at other brands and the only one with a travel trailer that has a modicum of quality is Airstream. I've looked very closely at the build quality of a 25' and 27' Airstream and while it seems to surpass other brands it does not have the same level of build quality as our Oliver. So we are at a crossroads: do we sacrifice some quality for more space or do we retain the quality of an Oliver but feel cramped? I know this is a personal thing as some Oliver owners may not feel cramped at all. Thoughts, recommendations (like other brands to check out), or personal experience on the leap from and Oliver to an Airstream would be appreciated.

I'm going to replace the original Dometic refrigerator that came with our 2018 Oliver Elite with anything but Dometic. I know there is lots of info on this topic in the forum but wanted to get the latest info/opinions. When traveling we are connected to AC power about 75% of the time and "boon docking" the remainder. We have 4 AGM batteries and when these are reaching their end of life (probably another year or 2) I will probably replace with lithium. The general consensus seems to be go with a compressor (danfoss) fridge vs the absorption but I don't want to have to worry about power consumption which may not be an issue with our use profile. I'm reasonably handy and enjoy doing the hands on stuff but this retro is probably on the edge of what I have time to do so may leave the change-out to a pro, particularly if I go with one of the compressor models. So, recommendations: compressor vs absorption, brands to consider, other considerations ? Lots of knowledge and experience here so appreciate the input. Thanks.

Thanks SeaDawg. The panel light reads On and Auto but I can't toggle to AC or DC or Gas (I'd happily take any one). None of these indicator lights are lit. Did not know about the multiple control boards. You are right....what a pita! I'll call dometic on Monday. My wife, who is an absolute all-star, is excited about the trip but not so excited about living out of a cooler for 3 weeks.

Thanks Topgun and Steph/Dud for ideas/suggestions. The rig is connected to shore power using adapter from 30A. All 3 prongs are present. I opened the vent panel behind the refrigerator on the outside of the rig and checked all connections. Turns out the 6 prong display connector (upper left on circuit board) was very loose. I firmly attached it and while I was in there I checked the 2 fuses on the circuit board...both were good and all the other connections Spirits were high at this point. Went inside the rig and flipped the AC breaker on....there was power to the display panel and I toggled to auto. Spirits very high at this point. However, the refrigerator would not activate so I toggled on/off a couple times and tried to toggle to AC and DC...not auto. There were no lights under AC or DC on the display and the unit did not operate. Spirits have peaked and are on the decline. By the way this is a 2018 Elite 2 with a Dometic model RM2454 refrigerator/freezer. Now I'm off to the internet to check the manual and see if there is some kind of a "reset". Ideas and suggestions still very welcome.

In prep for a trip to southern Utah next week I have been preparing the Oliver. I posted earlier about some water freeze issues (my fault, not the Oliver) that have been corrected. I also posted about issues with our Dometic refrigerator and thought our issues were related to the often maligned circuit board that provides power and ability to cool from AC, DC, or LP gas. With help I was able to get a new circuit board (sounds like the last in the world) and installed it this morning. I'm thinking now that it may not be the board but something else. Here's the symptoms: when I am connected to shore power and flip the ac circuit breaker in the Oliver to "on" it immediately trips a GFCI breaker located on one of our outdoor outlets...not the ac circuit breaker in the home breaker box. When I disconnect shore power and attempt to operate the refrigerator via the inverter no breakers in the Oliver trip but there is no power to the refrigerator. Looking for suggestions. Faulty refrigerator?

Hope the problem is simply a cracked plastic fitting. I have to get the unit out to check it. Oliver installs these for "keeps".

Yes! Not sure what I was thinking...more like wasn't thinking!

Well, did as Ray suggested and water was flowing out of plastic shark-bite like fitting in back of Truma Aquago Instant water heater. Hopefully it's just the plastic fitting and not the Temperature Stabilizer Tank. Now to figure out how to remove unit so I can access the fitting. Hoping this isn't a cascade of problems including air leaks upstream as topgun2 mentioned. The Truma manual does not describe removal of the entire heater so I'll call Oliver tomorrow. In the interim, has anyone remove the Truma unit?

Great idea. Trying it right now.

...and this time I think the problem initiator would be me! After our last fall trip I thought I drained the water from the freshwater tank but I didn't. You can probably figure out where this is going. In prep for our upcoming trip to southern Utah I turned on the water pump and saw that the pump would not stop and no water would come out of the faucets. I looked at the pump/accumulator plumbing and saw that the filter housing (on the suction side of the pump) was cracked and had "dribbled" a small amount of water. At this point I checked the tank monitor gauge and saw that the tank was nearly full of freshwater (and if I could have kicked myself in the backside I would have). We live at near sea level in Western Washington and it seldom gets cold but this winter we had a good cold snap and I'm pretty sure that's what cracked my filter. I purchased a new filter but just replaced the stainless filter element not the entire filter body. I was so sure that this would solve my problem that I drained all water from the tank using the bottom, gravity drain and refilled the tank with water and some bleach to disinfect the tank. I oriented all the valves in their correct position and turned on the pump. As they say, No Joy, and the pump would not turn off and there was no water at the faucets. I checked the pump area and all the valves and fittings that I could see....there were no apparent water leaks. The only thing I can think of is I have an air leak (maybe because something cracked during the freeze). I also assume these pumps do not need priming after draining. Any ideas? Like most of these problems I thing its relatively simple and may also be operator error....again.

Mountain Oliver, thanks for the input. What a shame to have to throw out a 5 yr old refrigerator for lack of a cheap (to manufacture) circuit board. Wasteful is the word that comes to mine. Have lost some respect for Dometic due to poor design (or manufacturing problems) and lack of support. I will look at the installation process you mentioned. What brand replacement did you use? I'm reasonably handy and like this kind of project but it seems like a big, complicated task. Am I wrong?

Thank you both! Dud, I ordered the "last one" off the ebay link you sent...didnt pay the $400 they wanted but darn close! If I can get another year or more from the new board I'll be a Happy Camper (pun intended). If I was replaced my Dometic today what would you replace it with and why? I do like the 3 way (110v ac, 12v dc, and propane) capability.

Hi. Hoping you can help with a Dometic Refrigerator problem. We have an Elite 2 (Hull 329), purchased in 2018, with a Dometic RM2454 refrigerator. I noticed the last time we used the trailer that the on/off button was "finicky"....sometimes it would go on with a single touch and other times it took numerous attempts including depressing the on button for an extended period before it would go on. As luck would have it, as we are scheduled to leave for a 3 week trip to southern Utah at the end of the month, I can not turn the refrigerator on. I did some voltage testing and believe the problem is the upper control panel, a not uncommon problem I have learned. Also unfortunate is the fact that Dometic doesn't carry these any longer and I can not find one through other sources. My question is: does anyone know where I can get one of these (the part number for what its worth is 2932884030), and absent that is there another board that I could use, and absent that (and worst case) is there another dometic fridge that is essentially plug and play that I could insert in place of the old one. Given the time before we planned to depart I don't have a lot of time to modify existing plumbing/electrical/cabinetry. Any help/guidance would be appreciated.

Sure enough, there it was. It's model AFSD20111 if any one is interested. Thanks bhncb!

Does anyone know the model number for the Atwood furnace installed on a 2018 Legacy Elite? I looked in the Oliver paper provided with trailer and took off the exterior furnace vent/cover but no model number in either location. Thanks.

You guys are great! From a first time user I was super impressed with the breadth of knowledge/experience and timelines of the responses. I sure do know where to go for expert advice!! I ended up installing the shunt and a new bus bar inside the battery compartment on the left hand side. I used a small piece of pvc molding (thank you Home Depot) and attached it to the battery compartment wall with 3M adhesive and attached the shunt and bus to it. I installed the gauge just below the pantry counter on the right hand side and ran the data cable and a power cable through the battery compartment using grommets to eliminate chaffing. Reinstalling the batteries and hooking the cables to the battery was a piece of cake. All works great! Special thanks to Andrew for the phone calls...and advice!

I know I can use the bluetooth feature to access the battery info (versus mounting the gauge) but has anyone run the cable and installed the gauge above the battery/tank gauge monitor that came with the Oliver. I've tried running some wire down both sides of the cabinet (one side of which has the Oliver battery/tank monitor gauges) but haven't been successful...I keep running into obstructions. I know the power cable for the battery gauge monitor runs behind the cabinet but I haven't had any luck trying to run a cable down this direction either. I would really like to avoid drilling any holes. Any advice? The good news is Oliver really seals these compartments well, far far better than most trailers I've seen! Thanks.

Thanks Overland. Mossemi, I've stubbed my toe so many time it doesn't look much like a toe anymore! I will followup with AndrewK...I've sent him my contact info. Thanks.

Thanks Overland. So using Oliver schematic for AGM's as a reference take all the negative leads (Battery temp sensor, inverter ground solar ground, and main ground and attach to bus bar. Then run a 4/0 cable from either (?) negative post on the 2 batteries located on the left hand side of the schematic to the shunt. I've shown what I think is the correct install wiring on right hand side of attached schematic. Is this correct? I didn't show the power wire to monitor. Sorry for being a bit "anal" on all this but I'd prefer to avoid screwing anything up. Thanks, wiring for battery monitor07062020093048.pdf

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