Dirt Duff

Thanks Rivernerd. Looks like Oliver in now installing 2-wire alarm. The 3-wire version of your alarm (model RVCOLP-3) is also discontinued and not available anywhere.

The detector in my LE2 needs to be replaced. It is a 3-wire Atwood model # 36636. Atwood is out of business. More recent revisions (model # 31011 and 36681) can be found on EBay but I wonder what others are using as 3-wire replacements. What is Oliver installing in new trailers? Has anyone found a replacement 3-wire detector?

Does anyone out there in Ollie Land have an LE2 Calmark cover for sale? Or, can anyone suggest an affordable alternative to Calmark Covers? Thanks

Topgun2 - You were right on target! The P-trap beneath the shower drain was dripping at the nut. Luckily, the P-trap is located directly above the "scupper hole". Although a small puddle developed from the P-trap leak and it was quickly drained via the "scupper drain". The P-trap is in a very tight location that makes if difficult to hand-tighten ,or tighten with a the plumbers nut-tightening tool. I'll just keep working the angles in the tight location till I can find a way to tighten the nut on the P-trap. Like the sinks in my house, there is likely no gasket on the P-trap elbow. I wonder why a gasket is not required on the P-Trap joint with the nut as this is a common problem in house sinks?? Thank you again 🙂

My new-to-me 2017 LE2 has two drains in the undercarriage. One drain is under the bathroom (see photo) and the other under the closet. Water was dripping out of the one under the under the bathroom this morning. I opened the "overflow valve" on the wall inside the bathroom and more water came out. What is the purpose of the two drains?

My 2015 LE1 has a Suburban water heater model # SW6DE. It blows the 15amp fuse as soon as I flip the rocker switch inside the trailer. What is wrong? I have changed the fuse but it blows each time. The fuse blows on DC (not connected to electrical outlet) and on AC (when connected to electrical outlet.) Note that the SeaLevel tank monitor is on the same circuit but does not blow the fuse when I use it to monitor tank levels. The rocker switch on the water heater itself is in the "off" position when the fuse blows. I pushed the large rubber reset button in to reset the water heater. (Note - I really don't know what the small rocker switch on the water heater and the large rubber "reset" button do.)

FYI - Im creating a spreadsheet of air conditioner options from my LE1. As stated earlier in this thread Cree apparently makes the Cree Eco Cool and the Atmos 4.4. Based on the attached photo Cree may also manufacture Tosot brand AC units. This photo is from the Tosot website's "about us" page showing a Cree manufacturing plant.

Sounds like it would be unsafe to tow an Oliver LE2 with my 2006 Tundra. Darn, I was hoping that someone would find a way to bend the laws of physics a bit for me. In a related question - Why is there a difference between the max cargo load in the Tundra's Owners Manual (600 lbs) and the cargo load on my door sticker (1421 lbs)? (See photos)

Can I tow an Oliver LE2 with a 2006 Toyota Tundra Double Cab? I have a first generation, 4x4,Tundra SR5 with a 4.7L V8 engine, and the Tow Package that includes the oil cooler and upgraded alternator. I ascend (and descend) the Pacific Northwest mountains. The truck has a an aftermarket electric brake controller and an Andersen WDH. Tundra Specs from Owner’s Manual: GVWR = 6600 lbs. (2994 kg) GVAW Front =3500 lbs. (1588 kg) GVAW RR = 3760 lbs. (1706 kg) Max Gross Trailer Weight = 6700 lbs. ((3039 kg) Hitch Carrying Weight = 670 lbs (304 kg) Max Cargo Weight = 600 lbs. (272 kg) Oliver Specs: GVWR = 7,000 lbs Dry Weight = 4.900 lbs Tongue Weight = 490 lbs. Looks like the DRY weight of the Oliver (4900 lbs) is little below the "80% Towing Rule" with 460 lbs to spare. (Tundra Max Trailer Weight= 6,700 lbs x .8 = 5,360 lbs.) However, the GVWR weight of the Oliver (7,000 lbs) is 300lbs more than the Tundra's Max Gross Trailer Weight (6700 lbs). Assuming that I add air bags and beefier brakes to the Tundra, can I safely tow an LE2? Thanks in Advance,

Thank you Ronbrink.

I need a new tongue jack for my Elite. While my LE was at an RV repair shop awaiting a window replacement, the shop bent the original jack. The RV repair shop replaced it with a new Stromberg model # Jet-3755. The rated capacity of the new Stromberg is 3,500 lbs. Is the Stromberg Jet-3755 tongue jack compatable with the weight of an Oliver LE1? What manufacturer, model, and capacity is on your Oliver LE? tongue jack? Thanks.

I purchased a new-to-me 2015 Oliver Elite. The old original Wilson 4G cell booster was not working. So, i installed a new weBoost Drive Reach cell booster with new internal and external antennas. The new weBoost did not work. Just like the old Wilson 4G cell booster, the "field test" mode on my iphone 15 Pro Max showed that the LTE RsrpRsrqSinr reading (-115 dBm) increased very little (2 to 3 dBM) when the booster was powered on. After many calls to Wilson weBoost customer support it was determined that the problem was the external antenna. The attached photo shows the 3 antenna options that I have been installed. Only option 3 worked. Antenna Option 1. The old original Wilson antenna (photo of a "stick with a ball on top" antenna, closest to camera) did not work. Antenna Option 2. A new Wilson shark fin antenna mounted on the original metal pad and connected to the original bolt protruding from the roof (installed in photo) does NOT work. Antenna Option 3. Another Wilson shark fin antenna with factory coax temporally installed by running it through the dinette window to the new weBoost Drive Reach cell booster. it WORKS! (But Id rather not drive down the road with the coax wagging in the wind.) Only, option 3 (Wilson shark fin with factory coax running through the window) works when the antenna is positioned on the metal pad. (And when the iPhone is using a "supported ATT band".) Again, Wilson customer support determined that the problem somewhere in the external antenna - most likely caused by a break in the coax or the manner that the antenna is connected to the bolt protruding from the roof. I have traced the coax as far as I can and did not find a break. Also, the very slight gain (2-3 dBm) in signal strength when the booster is powered indicates that there is not a break in the coax. Therefore, I'm guessing the problem must be the way that the antenna is connected to the bolt??? Because the trailer is new-to-me I do not know if the original "stick and ball" antenna was mounted by the factory or a prior owner. Or, if the way the coax is attached to the bolt is correct. Requests: 1. Could someone look at the photo of option 2 (the new shark fin connected to the roof bolt) and tell me if this is the way the factory would have mounted the antenna? 2. Could someone tell me how to mount the shark fin correctly to the roof bolt (without drilling a hole in the roof) so that the shark fin sends ample signal to the booster? Thank you in advance. 🙂

Are the L-shaped aluminum support also bolted to the brackets? Or, are they just between the brackets? Great info. Thank you everyone.

Thank you. The photos, measurements, and info are very much appreciated. 🙂

Is there a support bar down the middle between the panels also?