Dirt Duff
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Posts posted by Dirt Duff
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Sounds like it would be unsafe to tow an Oliver LE2 with my 2006 Tundra. Darn, I was hoping that someone would find a way to bend the laws of physics a bit for me.
In a related question - Why is there a difference between the max cargo load in the Tundra's Owners Manual (600 lbs) and the cargo load on my door sticker (1421 lbs)? (See photos)
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Can I tow an Oliver LE2 with a 2006 Toyota Tundra Double Cab?
I have a first generation, 4x4,Tundra SR5 with a 4.7L V8 engine, and the Tow Package that includes the oil cooler and upgraded alternator. I ascend (and descend) the Pacific Northwest mountains. The truck has a an aftermarket electric brake controller and an Andersen WDH.
Tundra Specs from Owner’s Manual:
- GVWR = 6600 lbs. (2994 kg)
- GVAW Front =3500 lbs. (1588 kg)
- GVAW RR = 3760 lbs. (1706 kg)
- Max Gross Trailer Weight = 6700 lbs. ((3039 kg)
- Hitch Carrying Weight = 670 lbs (304 kg)
- Max Cargo Weight = 600 lbs. (272 kg)
Oliver Specs:
- GVWR = 7,000 lbs
- Dry Weight = 4.900 lbs
- Tongue Weight = 490 lbs.
Looks like the DRY weight of the Oliver (4900 lbs) is little below the "80% Towing Rule" with 460 lbs to spare. (Tundra Max Trailer Weight= 6,700 lbs x .8 = 5,360 lbs.)
However, the GVWR weight of the Oliver (7,000 lbs) is 300lbs more than the Tundra's Max Gross Trailer Weight (6700 lbs).
Assuming that I add air bags and beefier brakes to the Tundra, can I safely tow an LE2?
Thanks in Advance,
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Thank you Ronbrink.
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I need a new tongue jack for my Elite. While my LE was at an RV repair shop awaiting a window replacement, the shop bent the original jack. The RV repair shop replaced it with a new Stromberg model # Jet-3755. The rated capacity of the new Stromberg is 3,500 lbs.
Is the Stromberg Jet-3755 tongue jack compatable with the weight of an Oliver LE1?
What manufacturer, model, and capacity is on your Oliver LE? tongue jack? Thanks.
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I purchased a new-to-me 2015 Oliver Elite. The old original Wilson 4G cell booster was not working. So, i installed a new weBoost Drive Reach cell booster with new internal and external antennas. The new weBoost did not work. Just like the old Wilson 4G cell booster, the "field test" mode on my iphone 15 Pro Max showed that the LTE RsrpRsrqSinr reading (-115 dBm) increased very little (2 to 3 dBM) when the booster was powered on. After many calls to Wilson weBoost customer support it was determined that the problem was the external antenna. The attached photo shows the 3 antenna options that I have been installed. Only option 3 worked.
Antenna Option 1. The old original Wilson antenna (photo of a "stick with a ball on top" antenna, closest to camera) did not work.
Antenna Option 2. A new Wilson shark fin antenna mounted on the original metal pad and connected to the original bolt protruding from the roof (installed in photo) does NOT work.
Antenna Option 3. Another Wilson shark fin antenna with factory coax temporally installed by running it through the dinette window to the new weBoost Drive Reach cell booster. it WORKS! (But Id rather not drive down the road with the coax wagging in the wind.)
Only, option 3 (Wilson shark fin with factory coax running through the window) works when the antenna is positioned on the metal pad. (And when the iPhone is using a "supported ATT band".) Again, Wilson customer support determined that the problem somewhere in the external antenna - most likely caused by a break in the coax or the manner that the antenna is connected to the bolt protruding from the roof. I have traced the coax as far as I can and did not find a break. Also, the very slight gain (2-3 dBm) in signal strength when the booster is powered indicates that there is not a break in the coax. Therefore, I'm guessing the problem must be the way that the antenna is connected to the bolt???
Because the trailer is new-to-me I do not know if the original "stick and ball" antenna was mounted by the factory or a prior owner. Or, if the way the coax is attached to the bolt is correct.
Requests:
1. Could someone look at the photo of option 2 (the new shark fin connected to the roof bolt) and tell me if this is the way the factory would have mounted the antenna?
2. Could someone tell me how to mount the shark fin correctly to the roof bolt (without drilling a hole in the roof) so that the shark fin sends ample signal to the booster?
Thank you in advance. 🙂
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On 7/27/2024 at 12:46 PM, jd1923 said:
As usual Steve and @mossemi are correct. It is 1" Aluminum angle. mine measured 25", Mossey wrote 26". There is no reason at all (two) 24" pieces would not work. The T-shape I noticed in the above picture was an illusion seeing the mounting bracket.
I just climbed up and measured. The mounts are 27" center-to-center and if yours measure the same (and about 59.5" front to back) then your installation was likely the same as mine. Good time to CLEAN the roof! 🤣
With these pics you could rebuild yours to match. The two panels do not have a center support. They are just bolted in 5 places, looks like 1/4" HW. Since you're build from scratch, not sure if angle mounts make real sense, but check out this post: HOW TO: Solar panel extension arms. - Ollie Modifications - Oliver Owner Forums (olivertraveltrailers.com)
Are the L-shaped aluminum support also bolted to the brackets? Or, are they just between the brackets? Great info. Thank you everyone.
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Thank you. The photos, measurements, and info are very much appreciated. 🙂
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Is there a support bar down the middle between the panels also?
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Is the aluminum angle a simple "L" -shape? Or, U-shape channel?
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1. What was the brand and dimensions of the two original solar panels on a 2015 Elite?
2. What was the brand and dimensions of the two 115w panels that Oliver installed in later years?
3. What was used to bind the two panels together.
Ive contacted Oliver asking these three questions, but they were not able to help me.
The solar panels on my new-to-me 2015 LE1 were knocked-off when the transporter, who was towing it cross-country from the seller to me, hit a deer. They are missing.
Originally, there were two 100W panels joined together somehow. Later model LE1s had two 115w panels (possibly Zamp brand) joined together. Now, Oliver installs a single 250w panel.
The roof brackets are still in place but bent. There is approximately 40" between the front set of brackets and the back set There is approximately 25" (drivers side to passenger side) between the brackets in each set. I do not wish to install new brackets. So, I am limited to the front-to-back dimension of 40". The driver's-to-passenger side demension of the panels can vary ,but I do not wish to go wider than the 115w that Oliver installed in later years.
Thanks
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Thank you. I will follow up with Oliver - Jay
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I need a cover for an LE1. Maybe you've built an "Ollie Hanger" and don't use your Calmark cover anymore? Any leads and suggested appreciated. Thanks
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I'm looking for recommendations of reliable RV transport companies that can ship a used LE1 from Tennessee to Oregon. I had a bad experience shipping furniture with Uship years ago and would like to hire a transport service with a good track record. I researched Uhaul and Enterprise rentals. However, as i understand their policies, they only rent trucks for local use, not cross-country towing. Recommendations and suggestions are deeply appreciated. 😀
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Looking for standard cushions for the bed/dinette for an LE1. Ive got the KTT, but prefer the dinette cushion layout. Custom cushions made locally will cost $2,500. Maybe someone in out there in Oliver Land, who replaced the standard seat cushions for a mattress, might have a set? Thanks - DD
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Inverter RV Air Conditioner
in Ollie Modifications
Posted
FYI - Im creating a spreadsheet of air conditioner options from my LE1. As stated earlier in this thread Cree apparently makes the Cree Eco Cool and the Atmos 4.4. Based on the attached photo Cree may also manufacture Tosot brand AC units. This photo is from the Tosot website's "about us" page showing a Cree manufacturing plant.