mossemi

The 2 Zamp panels on our 2017 LE2 are 160 watt panels. They are joined together with aluminum angle front and rear. Mossey

The value of 55.0" is a typo, correct? Mossey

I pulled our 2017 LE2 with a 2014 LC for 6 years and always used an Andersen WD hitch because the 2014 LC owners manual specified that any tongue weight over 500 lbs. required one. We bought the LC in 2016 because I wanted to order an Ollie in 2018, it was our 4th Toyota, its load capacity was 8,100 lbs. and it was a SUV. The fact that it needed a WD hitch was not an issue and never was. We now tow with a F-150 and still use the Andersen WD hitch, because it’s required and I don’t think I know any more that the engineers at Toyota or Ford do about the capabilities of their trucks, so I embrace their recommendations. Mossey

I’m sure you’ve heard that necessity is the mother of invention. Nice solution to your challenge. Mossey

I remember we helped @Ken_Judy replace their rear street side leaf spring at the 2022 rally. Do you know if the street or curb side is the most prevalent side for a failure? Mossey

Thank you! @Gliddenwoods asked the question about increased hight and it caused me to wonder while I was at my keyboard. And now a question for all of the Dexter axle spec sheet interpreters, please see the attachment.

I may have missed this fact in this great 17 pages and growing post, does Alcan make a 4 leaf spring pack that would also work for a LE2 and still be a capacity upgrade? Mossey

I’m not quite sure that OTT created any defect. It seems to me that Chris's 2016 LE2 was built to the axle specifications used on his trailer and have been in service for about 8 years without any problems. Mossey

@Roadlotus tows with a 2021 Nissan Titan XD. Mossey

For anyone considering adding a marine hatch to their bath vanity, I did this mod and I love it! But I think that you should take a look at @Frank C's version at THIS link. His bath vanity mod was a unique approach that I think is worth considering! Mossey

My order also had the LED lite. Thanks for the heads up! Mossey

Your disconnect needs are different than mine, so I choose a location under the rear dinette seat. I was interested in a disconnect switch in order to allow battery removal for a future battery upgrade and I wanted less obstacles in the battery box. It will work for your needs wherever you place it. I have some small pieces of 4/0 cable and I can make a short jumper if you provide the connectors and cover the shipping cost. Mossey

The fan and switch are the only active components in that circuit, so I would test their functionality with new wire. When I replaced my non working fan, I found the 3500 RPM operating speed a little noisy so I added a 12v PWM speed controller to slow it down. That's a possible hidden feature that test wiring would eliminate. I do leave my fan switch on 365 and let the thermostat control the fan operation. I guess that qualifies as AUTO mode. Mossey

Hull 193 also has a fan switch on the main switch panel in the entry area. It is placed in the 12v B+ supply path to the fan. There is also an inline thermostat on the output side of the switch. My B- travels from the fan to the bottom left of the refrigerator compartment and connects to the 12v ground of the refrigerator. My thermostat was originally attached to the right end of the horizontal condenser fins just below the red B+ wire disappearing on the right side of the picture in your post. If you have a fan control thermostat it should be located on the red wire. Mossey

After using Roadpass/Roadtripper/Campendium on a recent 6 week camping trip I have decided to cancel my subscription. I found it exasperating to use in its newest format and I switched to a Allstays Premium membership in the middle of our trip. Allstays and Campendium used to be free to use and I used both. I chose Campendium's paid subscription to begin with and was a happy camper until they completed their app migration. Mossey