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Yes, that is the same plastic box and I did remove about 2/3 of one of the dividers to mount the timer. I also cut two small slots on each side to catch the mounting clips of the timer. For your information, I have seen at least one YouTube video where someone removed and discarded the plastic box to mount something else in its place. This is a bad idea as the plastic box/spacer has a purpose. It is there to ensure that the air flows correctly over the coils.

Good questions. Let's start with the second question. IF stands for the internal fan. This is the one that runs inside the RV. The wire that currently comes from the internal fan that is connected to the LOW terminal is disconnected and it is rerouted to S2 of the timer and NO of the relay. A new wire is connected from the LOW terminal to COM of the relay.

I took a quick look at the datasheet for the Honeywell thermostat Pro 1000. It is a home 24-volt AC thermostat. This type of thermostat is not designed for RV use and they are very hard to adapt for RV 12-volt DC use. The good news is that most RV heaters use a simple two-wire control system. The link below is for a simple RV thermostat that would be very easy to set up. The second link is for a digital thermostat that looks like it is designed for a two-wire heater control. I am going to order the digital thermostat to test it with my two-wire heater and I will report back. https://amzn.to/3VFdmna https://amzn.to/4cGNyhv

hobojoe sent me a message asking for more details about my design and I am happy to share it. First, I need to mention that working with high voltage can be very dangerous and has the potential to cause serious injuries including death. I recommend hiring someone with the correct skills if you do not have them. I am a fourth-generation engineer in the electrical, electronic, radio communication, and computer fields and I am a senior member of the IEEE so I feel qualified to make these changes. Always ensure your RV is disconnected from AC power and that any inverter that might be powering your air conditioner is turned off before working on your air conditioner. I am not responsible for any damage you might do to your RV, air conditioner, or yourself. Making these changes will most likely void your warranty. Links for the wiring diagram and parts are below. I used the P1-5 program of the timer and set T1 to 45 seconds and T2 to 360 seconds, There has been some discussion about not wanting to purge the remaining cold air. If you want to avoid the purge you could use the P1-4 program and set T1 to 360 seconds and T2 to 45 seconds. The program on the timer can only be set while it is powered with AC. After it is set up it will remember the settings when it is powered off. If someone wants to try both of these settings in a very humid environment I would be interested in the results. Please reach out through the discussion thread if you have any other questions. wiring: https://trontamer.com/dl/wiring.png timer: https://amzn.to/3XGyA6O relay: https://amzn.to/3W2nacw cable: https://amzn.to/45GcxPy

Almost all modern home and commercial air conditioning systems are designed to purge the remaining cold air after the compressor shuts down and their ability to dehumidify is not compromised. With my application, the air in my rig is dryer than it has ever been. That said, with a simple change to timer settings, the initial purge could be eliminated.

Hello Everyone, I do not own an Oliver, however, I have developed a novel solution to the Houghton humidity issue that I would like to pass on. My solution builds on the compressor relay idea that was posted by GSMBear. My Design also interrupts the low-speed fan power so it will run when the compressor is on, however, it adds a timer control to start the fan every six minutes to sample the RV temperature. I live in Oregon so it is not as humid here as it is in the south, however, this mod produces dehydrated air in the RV and the air conditioner discharges a lot of water it has pulled out of the RV, The timing cycle works like this: When the AC brings the RV to the target temperature and the compressor shuts down the timer will run the fan for 52 seconds to purge the remaining cold air. (Purging the remaining cold air improves efficiency.) Then the timer will shut down the fan and wait for six minutes. The timer will then run the fan for 52 seconds to sample the air in the RV. If the AC detects a temperature rise it will start up, else the cycle will repeat by waiting for six minutes. The net result is only 1/8 as much time is spent blowing air over the wet coils, dramatically reducing the water return to the cabin and giving the water more time to drip off the coils. It would be easy for the manufacturer to implement this solution in firmware and it is very frustrating that the manufacturer has not done so. On a side note, I would not be in favor of relocating the plenum thermistor as it may be used for other purposes like detecting a coil freeze-up. I installed the timer and relay into a plastic spacer that sits on top of the control box of my AC2801. The links below are for photos of the moded spacer before and after the installation. If anyone would like more details about my solution I would be happy to share. https://trontamer.com/dl/mod1.jpg https://trontamer.com/dl/mod2.jpg