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  1. My trailer is now resting in storage for the winter but I believe my hull number is 94. In the three years I've owned it there have been several electrical problems. The first two years my SUV repeatedly thought the trailer was disconnected and was "ringing" an alert very often and quite annoyingly. That problem was solved by getting rid of my 2015 GMC Yukon and replacing it with a Lincoln Navigator along with plugging in an adaptor to the trailer connect plug. We also experienced the street side outside lights not working, the closet light switch working erratically, and the refrigerator recently not working in the DC mode. This is all in addition to the AC to DC conversion problem which was the source of my original post. Also, the problem found in my trailer (with the technical problem of grounding of the inverter) was there was no grounding wire at all. So I've had my share of electrical issues which hopefully are now all solved so we can get back to the very enjoyable process of exploring the USA in our trailer. Russ
  2. Ken, I took my Oliver to Mike's LP, and Wayne and his business were just as you described. He found and fixed the problem. He also fixed the technical bulletin problem (faulty ground on the inverter) that some of the Oliver trailers had. Thank you again for the referral. I recommend Mike's LP to everyone with an Oliver or other travel trailer in the Minneapolis/St. Paul area. Russ
  3. Bill, You hit the nail on the head!. I took the trailer to the RV repair shop suggested by KenB and after testing and probing, the owner said the wire connecting to the BAT terminal on the switch was extremely loose and not connecting all the time, thus causing my electrical problems. I won't be able to test it with a long trip until late spring 2019 but I feel much better about it now. Thank you for all your guidance. Russ
  4. Bill, thank you for your time and knowledge in trying to solve my problem. At the beginning of this season I took our trailer to a known RV shop and they couldn't replicate the problem, so there was nothing to fix. I live in the Minneapolis MN area and gladly welcome all recommendations for a good RV repair shop.
  5. I noticed from your photo at least 3 wires attached to the breaker while mine appears to have only 2 wires. Because I am not an electrician I don't know how to tell whether my battery is attached to the BAT lug on the breaker.
  6. My photo is backwards. I don't know how that happened since the photo on my computer is the appropriate direction.
  7. We recently had the same kind of condensation issue on the street side bunk. We resolved it on the trip by putting a waterproof tarp under the mattress.
  8. This is the breaker under the street side bunk that trips when I unplug from shore power. I noticed that mine is 40 amps and the one shown by Townesw is 60. When I plug into shore power, the voltage on the battery meter reads about 13.6, sometimes 14+.
  9. The switch is on the street side (driver's side). I erred in saying it was the curb side. Your description of the "sail switch" sounds like what I have. Mine doesn't seem to look like the photo from Townesw but I will check it out tomorrow. From what I can tell, all appliances are off when I unplug from shore power. But just in the last few days the hydraulic lift in the front seems to not be as fast in raising/lowering and it is almost always used in DC mode.
  10. I appreciate all your comments and questions. Our trailer is a 2015 LE II. I turned the refrig off before unplugging and the breaker/switch still tripped. A/C and heat were always off before unplugging. I never turn on my inverter so that shouldn't be drawing any power. And the only time I run the refrig on DC is when we are towing the trailer.
  11. It is under the curb side bunk and doesn't look like the photo you posted. Tomorrow I will take a photo of the switch and post it.
  12. Thanks Overland. I will look at the items you mentioned tomorrow and let you know what I find.
  13. My apologies for not being clear. When I am plugged into shore power the trailer is running on AC. When I unplug from the shore power and the trailer is supposed to automatically convert the system (including the refrigerator) to DC, this "master" switch is tripped and there is no power until I reset the switch under the bed. I don't know how to tell if my batteries are charging when plugged in. I have been suspecting the refrigerator so I have turned the refrig off before unplugging from shore - this worked (didn't trip the switch) for the first few weeks but then it failed as described above.
  14. We just returned from a 4 week trip and in the last 2 weeks, every time I disconnected the trailer from the shore power, the trailer tripped a "master" switch under the drivers side bed and there is no DC power available in the trailer. I am able to reset the switch by pressing a small lever on the switch. I had the same problem last year but a local RV shop could not find anything wrong with the system. I am not an electrician but it seems that the AC to DC converter is not working. Has anyone else had this or a similar problem, and if so, how did you fix it?
  15. Thanks for the comments and advice. I will likely purchase a new Tekonsha P3.
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