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KenB last won the day on November 21 2019

KenB had the most liked content!

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My Info

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My RV or Travel Trailer

  • Do you own an Oliver Travel Trailer, other travel trailer or none?
    I own an Oliver Travel Trailer
  • Year
  • Model
    Legacy Elite II
  • Floor Plan
    Twin Bed Floor Plan
  • Hull #
  1. After a few nights you get a feel for the balance between fresh air, condensation, and heat loss through a cracked vent or window. You’ll have to experiment I also played around with the heat vent balance. My water system was drained and I only use the bathroom for the composting toilet so it doesn’t need to be heated as much as the main cabin. The floor is much warmer than the old wood uninsulated floor that was standard on our old hybrid camper. Rugs are still nice to have. If it’s not windy the furnace will eventually catch up and shut off, but it’ll still be running much more than not. Plan on lots of propane.
  2. I drove I70 west through Denver and up and over the Rockies last March on a trip from Minnesota to Moab, Utah while towing our Elite II. Had to drop down to Kansas to avoid ice and snow in Nebraska. I70 was shut down to clear avalanches for an hour or so someplace around Silverthorne, CO. Parked next to lots snowmobile trailers in the CO mountain pass rest stops. There was packed snow and ice on the pass everywhere. The Oliver behaved itself and stayed back behind the truck where it belonged. This winter driving was in addition to a few trips towing in snow during hunting season in MN. Being from Minnesota I’ve driven on ice and snow my whole life. Towing the Oliver, or any travel trailer, in the winter isn’t exactly routine, but certainly possible. My 200 series Land Cruiser had AT tires at the time with the mountain snowflake rating. It would have been even less stressful with my current set of dedicated snow tires (I have three sets of tires now; all season (daily driving), all terrain (trips out west, hunting season), and dedicated snow). My Oliver has the Michelin tires The worst part of driving in the winter is the road chemicals. All the alloy on the trailer frame/bumper/storage basket has lost some of its luster. One of the stainless handles on the propane cover has started to corrode. The coupler and shocks are showing rust. Its not horrible, and it still looks good, but it’s not new looking anymore. The fiberglass and anything above the belt line is still as new. It might bother some people, but I Just see all the fun I’ve had with it. If you need it to look like new, leave it parked. Otherwise go have fun. Obviously I’d rather use it than keep it pretty while in storage. My camping season would only be six months long if I didn’t risk winter weather. It tracks fine on winter roads if you drive according to the conditions. hth, Ken
  3. My first thought is the sail switch has some fibers or hair stuck to it. I was going to pop the cover off and take a picture of the location for you, but there are eight screws holding the cover on and it’ll be dark before I find the tools get it apart. My furnace was acting similar this March while camping in Moab, Utah. After an internet search I took out the sail switch in the campground (while it was snowing) and found a few long fibers hanging off of it. Pulled the fibers off, reinstalled, and the furnace fired back up. I found that it takes VERY little interference to affect the proper operation of this microswitch. Pull the cover, look for two wires leading to the back of a micro switch. I think it’s on the lower left side looking in at the furnace from the outside. Remove the micro switch with its long metal operating arm and clean it off. Make sure it’s switching smoothly. Be careful removing and replacing so you don’t bend the sail part Good luck. HTH. Ken.
  4. As we were packing up our Elite II today (hull #351) to leave from Ridgway State Park, just north of Ouray, CO, the owner of hull #2 rolled up in his pickup the say Hi. He said that he first saw his eventual trailer (hull #2) when Jim Oliver was camping in it at Quartsite. He later visited the factory and bought the exact trailer (hull #2) as a demo unit from Jim. When he went back to the factory in the early days for a few issues, he said that Jim would ask him to stay at his house as a guest while waiting for the work to be completed. It sounds like he lived in it for a few years when he first bought in, now it’s just for recreation. I asked if he’d had any issues I should look for and couldn’t think of anything except a leaking double pain window seal. He was very nice and look forward to meeting him on the road again. It sounded like he spent little if any time on a computer and won’t stubble on this thread. I thought I’d add to the story by letting everyone know hull #2 is still in service.
  5. The sculptures are interesting, but the two ends of the hi-way are tough points to work into a trip. There isn’t much of a draw to the area, hence the construction of the sculptures to draw tourists off of the freeway. I was checking out pheasant hunting spots for a fall hunting trip when we drove it last summer. Stopped to look at these birds too.
  6. I’m not participating in that event. This one for the 200 series. It’s goes Wednesday pm to Saturday pm. +60 200 series LC will be there. Check out ih8mud.com for +40 pages of discussion. It’s based out of Ouray this year. It’s my first organized LC event. We’ll see how it goes. Ken
  7. Not really on topic, but Ouray was mentioned in the title. I’m currently in the Ouray area for the week with our Elite II to attend a Land Cruiser event. Last night we camped in the Denver area. On our way here today we came across on I70. In Copper Mountain we had our first ever Oliver sighting! Someone was driving across the overpass heading south as we were heading west. It all happened too quick to see the tow vehicle or colors of anything. About the only thing I noticed is that I think there were dual awnings. You’d think that in maybe 8k miles of towing our Oliver in the past year we’d see more than just a passing glimpse of just one. Tonight at the state park there are three Casitsas and one Escape in our loop, plus myself. Practically a mini rally.
  8. I recently called Andersen about getting a new friction cone. They sent one out immediately with few questions. The one year old friction cone was white, the newest version they just sent me is light blue. One of the videos on their website says it’s acceptable for the friction material to start protruding out the top, but should be replaced if it exceeds 3/8”. Mine was sticking out 1/2”. Really the only question they asked was what is the color of the whale tail. Mine is silver. I see John’s is black. Our trailer has maybe 10k miles on it. I haven’t replaced the friction material yet. I had no complaints about the white cone (other than it squirting out the top), hopefully the blue won’t be a step backwards. Hth, Ken
  9. I didn’t use screen. I used a block of open cell foam roughly 3 inches cubed that was a scrap from a large fish tank filter. I believe the pores are small enough to stop the gnats, but air still passes through easily. I trimmed it until it was a snug fit in the stack pipe. HTH, Ken
  10. I climbed up on mine last week to do this same job. There is just one Philips screw holding the vent cap in place. Very easy to remove and replace. Add your screen to the top of the stack and replace the cover. Done. I was prepared for much worse. HTH. Ken
  11. I bought two of the same fan sometime this winter. They are currently sitting out in the camper. Occasionally I hold them up to the wall, try different mounting spots/orientations, and then try to work up the gumption to drill new holes into the fiberglass. Still hasn’t happened. Your location is one of my prime choices. Seeing the base mounted perpendicular to the side wall makes sense. You can easily see the controls and LEDs in that orientation. My plan was to mount it with through bolts using the two counter sunk holes provided and a backing plate on the other side. Your six rivets are not part of the factory mounting suggestion, but should be good insurance against coming loose while the trailer bounces down the road. I wonder which is worse for loosening mounted fixtures like this fan, pounding waves in a boat, or bumpy roads? Thanks for the ideas. Ken
  12. I had a base model Parkit360 that I’d bought off of Craig’s list for part of a season. It wouldn’t handle the 3500 lb trailer I had at the time. Since I knew we were getting an Elite II soon, I put it back on Craig’s list and sold it again. No way it would have handled the 5000 lb + of the new trailer. It was far from the effortless hookup and moving around they show on the videos. Now I have a front mounted hitch and all is well and for far less money too. HTH, Ken
  13. I have the same front mount reciever that you’re looking at mounted on the front of my ‘13 Land Cruiser. Or I should say it was. I took it off before driving to Moab last week with the Land Cruiser and the Oliver. Later this week I’ll put the front reciever back on so I can easily back my LE II back into its winter storage spot for another month or two. Its great for moving the trailer around the yard. The rise on my drawbar might be even taller than the one you show. No issues, I’m just glad it goes on and off easily. It hangs pretty low. Fine for pavement, but for even mild off road it’s too low. Can’t comment on changing the oil with it in place, but that might be an issue. Just moving the trailer around your yard or a campsite? The hitch and drawbar you show will be fine.
  14. We spend a few weeks each summer at Minnesota State Parks. They have a rule to head off at least some of the reservation nonsense. You MUST occupy your site on the first night of your reservation in Minnesota State Parks. There is no ability to change the first date of your reservation once it is made. If you try to change the first day, or don't show up the first day, the whole reservation is cancelled with a loss of funds. This is key to stop one type of gaming of the reservation system. For those who understand why this detail makes a difference can get a site of their choice and date of their choice before many others. I want to acknowledge that this happens, but don't want to document a how-to for those who don't understand. It'll just make it worse. HTH, Ken
  15. With a bunch of motorcycles in my garage (currently down to seven) and a couple of bicycles, I have some experience maintaining control cables and using the cable lubricating device you mention. Tri-flow aerosol is usually the preferred lubricant. WD40 should be avoided as it eventually dries into a hard varnish. If the inner cable is kinked or the outer is smashed, a replacement will be necessary. The cable lube device is dependent on the outer cable sheath being intact the whole length. A nick in the sheath allows the lubricant to take the path of least resistance and the whole cable doesn’t get lubed. Make sure lubricant comes out the far end. Start at the highest end. It makes a mess. Have some rags ready. HTH. Ken.
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